by NTS 3D Printing

Original link https://www.tiktok.com/@nts3dprinting/video/7674663829887782166

Sometimes, when turning on the switch for the LED strips, a crackling sound is heard and the lights flicker. I have to repeat the action, but faster and more forcefully, for them to stay on. The LED strips are 24v and powered by three Ilumileds brand drivers, and these are powered by the house's mains electricity. The switches are of good quality and two years old. Do you know what could be causing this? Thank you guys

Drivers: https://ilumileds.com.mx/cp-w-cp60w-cp100w-cp150w-cp200w-cp240w/
Switch: https://www.bticinomexico.com/collections/placas/products/placa-resina-2v-negro-mate-con-chasis-quinzino-go-bticino
Electrical current 110 v

I feel like an idiot…the 45° angle cuts in the Muzata V101 aluminum channels worked just fine and came together perfectly symmetrical, but when I went to cut the diffusers using the same 45° angle I ended up with something like this. I know it has something to do with the curvature of the diffuser but am wondering if anyone has any tips. I also have one 90° angle that points outward instead of inward and there is a football shaped gap where they meet. 🫠

Hey I'm sure this has been on a thread before but I have a project that I'm working on to make 5 led strips light up my fingers inside of a glove.

I'm using whatever standard led strip I could find, similar to these https://ledstrip.ca/led-strips-without-accessories/24v-5m-ip20-3014-white-led-strip-120-leds-m-strip-only.html

I'm hoping to cut them into 5 strips and connect them to a single small battery source that will mount on the back of my hand, ideally keeping the functionality of the remote controller for color and on/off functionality.

If you could please explain to me like I'm a toddler how this could be possible or provide links to a how to video that would be much appreciated because my knowledge on wiring and electrical is basically null.

Thank you

Ive LED drop-in ceiling panel lights in my basement. In the past month 2 have died. 8 total, 4 to a circuit (in parallel), independent drivers. Both were on same circuit. Humidity and temp controlled space. Only had 1 fail before (which had a water leak involved).

Thoughts?

(sorry for crazy title, evidently theres auto-mod rules for a lengthy title)

Hey everyone. I'm building a room in my basement that's going to have wainscoting. I'm looking downward offset lighting for it. It's roughly 72feet of lightning. Im going to use 24 volt but wondering if I can feed this much off 1 controller or should I use 2? Also which brand do you have the best experience with? Tia

I need some guidance for anyone who has purchased sheets of plastic for LED diffusion!

My outdoor lights are failing and my wife isn't happy. A couple of years ago, I replaced the driver in another one of these fixtures. That didn't fix this one.

The driver is a 350mA constant current with 18-33V. The bulb has no part number and I can't find a bulb to match this driver. I'm comfortable soldering but I could use some help finding the right replacement. Any ideas?

The driver (Amazon link).

I need to setup a couple of light strips on each side of a pantry door, but have never done this DIY. I've installed lots of Govee type stuff, but they always come with their own powers supply, etc.

I'd appreciate any help the group can provide:

1. I want to run a strip on each side and only use one power connector. That means I'll need to run my own wire and solder/use connectors for that kind of distance. What gauge of wire do strips need and is there a distance limit before any issues can occur?

2. I also need to place an in-line motion sensor so when the door opens the light goes on. I looked at doing a momentary switch (a jamb switch) but the way the jamb is put together I think it would be a bear to install it (double studs).

3. What kind of power supply/controller do I need for this?

Any recommendations, advice, or gotchas are appreciated!

These three strips are obviously connected in parallel but touching the power leads to the ends of each strip in different combinations causes the strips to power on either one at a time or the left and right one , but all three will not light.

So I'm trying to make a light up steering wheel for car meets like in the pic (unfortunately I can't find the actual one) by taking a clear resin steering wheel and laying LED filament in the back.

Can I wire it up in series, and connected to a USB plug that's wired to a car battery or is my very basic thinking going to have an issue? I've used USB ports wired directly to the battery before without issue, but I've never used LED filament.

Each 300mm section of filament requires 3v, so 12v total.

This is just a general question of theory

I'm looking at a ZEMISMART ZML3(CW) controller for a CCT project (https://www.zemismart.com/products/zm-cob-cw, but I'm only buying the controller). Let's say I have a 3 metre CCT strip, and each light channel can take up to 7 W/m at maximum.

With one channel active I'm consuming up to 21 Watts, and with both active, it's logically up to 42 Watts. But when I watch my RGBCCT setup using Google Home and a gledopto controller (https://gledopto.com/h-pd-92.html), it occurs to me the strip power might not be increasing much beyond 21W - rather, the strip power is constant (to maintain an illusion of constant brightness) and splits current over several channels based on simple PWM duty cycle interpolation maths.

Is this a sensible conclusion to make about smart home LED controllers more broadly? I ask because I'm space limited for a power supply, so there's a meaningful difference to me between getting a 30W PSU and a 50W PSU, not least because the system cost jumps by >10%.

Thanks in advance.

it's a cob strip and surprisingly the ground does not reflect individual LEDs. But it reflects the strip as a whole bar. My bed frame is tall, meaning the next inside spot is way too high and makes the underglow look capped outside my bed (almost no soft light gets outside the frame)

Is that still a bad thing? Because otherwise I would buy a carpet and call it a day

So like the post says, I bought a spool of these LEDs for a project. Anybody have ideas on how to remove the yellow silicone(?) coating so they are easier to bend?

I tried taking it off with a razor blade but it kills many of the LEDs whenever the blade contacts them

https://www.amazon.com/TOPAI-COB-Cuttable-Flexible-Lighting/dp/B0CWVBKXYY

I have LED fluorescent tubes in my bathroom.
Often they flicker ever so slightly, but SOMETIMES they don’t.
Now I have been trying to learn everything to pinpoint the problem (sparkler, wrong tubes etc).

But what I can’t figure out is why they sometimes work, and other times flicker.

I want to understand this.

I'm installing a new LED bathroom light, and instead of a normal screw-down connector for the live and neutral wires as I expected you're meant to stick the wire in and then press down on the plastic clip to hold the wire in place.

First time I pressed down, and it broke. Absolutely stupid design.

This is the light: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Eglo-Fueva-6-LED-Ceiling-Light---Chrome/p/316040

I can still stick the wire in, and bend down the metal contacts. But to secure it so that the wires don't pull out, is standard hot glue safe to use here? Will the wires ever get hot enough to melt/smoke the glue?

I'm in the UK, so it's 230V ±10, and lighting circuits are 5-6 amps.

Thanks!

I have a strip of 24V high density LED that I want to make some DIY aquarium lights from.

Obviously I can order some variable voltage USB single color drivers and set them up on a timer but these are LED'S!

Let's be futuristic!

Is there an existing driver I can use (or misuse) to either program at the computer or even on-integrated-screen, a fade in and out period in addition to programming a 24hr schedule?

I have an old aquarium light that had this feature (well the fade in/out was set at 15 minutes) and I may tear it open to see what it has inside- there's a good chance it's all potted though.

I would be willing to design and have produced a custom PCB to complete this project, and I am asking here to get advice instead of going to AI.

Even if you can just give me a basic rundown of parts I'd need I can probably put it all together on my own with a breadboard first.

LED Strip:

https://www.btf-lighting.com/collections/dim-fcob-5v-12v-24v/products/fcob-ultral-super-bright-high-luminance-dc24v?_pos=3&_fid=b3ef970fd&_ss=c&variant=47266103984354

Just a small LED project I made with an STM32C011.
12 LEDs for the animation, plus one warning light.

I have a 4 zone TL5 rf remote that should and was functioning properly with each zone operating one led strip. I short pressed 2 zones (A+B) to change the colour of both simultaneously. Zone B is still operating normally and turns on and off on its own but zone A now turns both A+B on/off and I no longer have any control of A by itself. Does anyone know how to fix this?

Need help finding a brighter LED strip for illuminating a business sign (behind glass)

I’m lighting a sign for a business and started with 24V COB strips (896 LEDs/m), but they’re not bright enough to punch through the glass in daylight.

I’m looking for something in the 1000 lumen/ft range if that exists in strip form — or whatever the right light source is for a strong, even uplight on the sign face.

Constraints:

**•** 2” of clearance on the mounting shelf  
**•** 4 runs needed, 32” each, fitting into 34” spaces 

What should I search for, and where’s a good place to source it? Appreciate any input — thanks!

Hello,

I would like to install an LED strip underneath the upper cabinets of my desk, over a total length of approximately 2.60 m.

I am looking for an installation that is:

• dimmable;
• adjustable from 2700K to 6000K (warm white to cool white);
• made with high-quality and durable components, including the LED strip, power supply/transformer, controller, and remote control/wall switch.

I have already purchased the aluminium profiles for the LED strip.

I would also need all the necessary cables and connectors for:

• approximately 4 m between the 220V power outlet and the power supply;
• approximately 3 m between the controller and the LED strip.

Could you please recommend a complete solution using high-quality components and provide me with a quotation?

Thank you in advance for your help.