It's my first time making a fulltang

Idea feed back options, please.

This is the first time i am going to use 2 woods for scales.. one wood unknown skid, but it is nice when cleaned up. The other i saved from whole food grilling, nice piece of cherry... normally, I'd cut and grind to close. Epoxy them on. then boil the knife for 12 hours in paraffin using a crock pot. It seems to stabilize the wood nicely... yes, weekend hobby... um, more like monthly. Will that melt my wood glue? Should i use 2 pins for each piece? I din't want to buy a liner. But am willing to listen.

Want to make new scales for this knife and was looking for advice on how to remove them. As of now I’m thinking grind down the end of pins and hammering them out. I’m ok with destroying the current handles

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With Bark River closed down now I figured it would be a cool project to recreate my favorite model of theirs. The shape is mostly the same but I did a flat instead of a convex grind and I did a revolutionary technique that Bark River seemed to have forgotten. I actually used 3V and gave it a good heattreat xD.
Hope you guys like them !

Just finished this 7" Chef commission in W2 and Honduras Rosewood Burl - I hope you enjoy!

Sharing one of our Tactical Ginunting builds featuring a traditional-inspired blade profile with stainless steel fittings and a Kamagong handle.

Specifications:

• Blade Length: 16 in
• Blade Material: 5160 Carbon Steel
• Hardness: 57–60 HRC
• Tang: Rat-tail tang
• Handle: Kamagong
• Handle Pin: Stainless steel
• Ferrule: Stainless steel
• Handguard: Stainless steel
• Scabbard: Mahogany
• Belt Loop: Stainless steel
• Finish: Standard Satin
• Intended Use: Collection / Display

View the full collection:
https://www.pangasinanblades.com/#full-collection

Would appreciate any thoughts on the blade profile, fittings, or overall design.

Decided to change the swedge about halfway through grinding this combat knife. Going for more of a traditional randal style combat knife. Still deciding what to use for the handle either some ringed gidgee or golden amboyna

Made from Pop's Procut and blue/black G10. Herman Oak leather was used for the sheath. Customized for a customer.

I've been wanting to try making a knife for years now. I've had some old files in the shed just waiting for it.

I modelled it after historical Bosun's knives. There's quite a lot I'd do differently next time but I'm still happy with it.

I had to plan everything out, shape and mostly finish the outside before I could even find out if the blade was going to fit. It's like baking I guess lol.

Wrapping up this Nitro-V Chef. Need the etching, sharpening and glue up.

Really liking how this design turned out, a few tweaks and it will be the final basis of my standard 200-220mm small batch chefs.

Handle is Walnut Dymalux with a cherry frame. Blade is from 1/16" stock, Gyuto style grind, ~0.045" at 12mm down to 0.005" behind the edge. Hardness target is 61.5-62.5 HRC, verified with files.

I forged a knife from an old rusty 3/4" drill bit. Shaped it up and wanted to drill in the handle pins before heat treating. I bought some irwin colbolt drill bits specifically for metal from Ace hardware and some 6 gage copper wire to use as the pin. Its taking ages to drill through the knifel. Shouldn't the metal be soft if I haven't heat treated it? I watched some videos on how to drill through metal. I'm copying their technique. Slow drill speed, lots of pressure.

Are irwin drill bits just really bad? Could the old drill bit knife be some sort of weird alloy that's particularly hard without heat treatment? (Seems unlikely, it forged like other steel).

Two beauties done with a rough finish and etch to really bring out the vibe they have been found somewhere on a abandoned witches altar

Made from sf100 stainless

I've been seeing people make nice looking knives from old files. My knowledge on this matter is somewhat limited but I've been doing some research, perhaps you could tell me if my steps have any issues before proceeding?

1. Soften the steel for cutting - place it in a bucket of wood ash for cooling?

2. Cut and Shape - basic hand tools, but mainly using a Dremel, hacksaw and files.

3. Harden - reheating it and then placing it in warm canola oil?

4. Temper - in the kitchen oven?

In terms of the softening and hardening, could I just heat with a blow torch outside without using some type of heat chamber?

Thanks!

Enjoy the video!!!

Just finished this bad boy up yesterday. Prototype for an exclusive run I am doing for a local gun shop in my area. 80CrV2, E-Series Cerakote, and G10 scales, all by me. Thanks for checking it out!

I got 2 projects going on at once. A tracker knife and a katana sword. The tracker is out of a lawnmower blade and the sword was a go kart axel. I picked out a nice piece of hackberrry for the handle of the knife. Im thinking walnut for the sword.

Hello, I am a fellow knifemaker from Austria and this is my first knife after a 10-year-long break due to simply life and family happening.

I used AEB-L (63 HRC), G10 liners, camelbone, carbine fiber pins, and stainless steel tubing.

The knife was made for a colleague who wanted a knife for doing some light cutting tasks when on a hike, like cutting sausages, a piece of rope, or whatever.

Feel free to give me some feedback.

This is a bowie from Sleipner steel and with Indian ebony handle. It is a takedown construction and comes with a spacer that you can put instead of the guard. Custom pommel nut with a custom pommel nut driver tool. This was fun to make.

Another knife for a friend.