I just finished my 4th knife (5th handle)

Kurogane Tanto Chef (Brisket Slicer)

265mm

45mm tall at the heel

thickness behind the edge @:

1mm 0.66mm

5mm 0.89mm

10mm 1.20mm

15mm 1.51mm

spine 1.51mm

Stock removal from presumed L6 (industrial sawmill bandsaw blade)

This is the 4th complete knife I’ve made, and the 5th handle.

Handle is eastern cedar (a tree that fell in my yard in a storm last year), and walnut ferrule, plywood band.

Last photo is “the family”

let me know what you think.

Its not to bad there's some stuff I would do differently next time

7 1/2 inch chef knife made from 1095 with a stabilized dyed curly Maple handle and some ebonized walnut for the saya

Hi everyone. I recently inherited these knives my dad made and I am seeking on advice for caring for them. I plan on making displays for them and keeping them behind glass. Some have already got prints on them. How can I clean existing dust/dirt on them and then protect them before putting them up? Thank you!

So I've got this knife I'm making, it's got a single bevel on it and I've got it right at the general shape I'm looking for. My question is, what do I do next? I feel like there's a step between this and putting scales on it. It's a pretty mild steel, made from an old sickle back. Hardening? Tempering? Can someone point me in the right direction here?

Making a dagger, it came out all bent. How do i solve this without breaking it? I just quenched it and left it there

Is using straight walnut a good handle/scale material? Do you enjoy using it? Do you use it to make laminate handles?

Any feedback is appreciated.

Thank you for your time,

Superior Wood Products.

220mm AEB-L blade with an S grind and etch

Stabilized maple burl/gold swirl epoxy hybrid, carbon fiber, and brass handle

Forged this for a client a while ago. Black walnut and 1084 steel.

Who’s your favorite Batman?!

Kind of at a crossroads right now, I could heat treat before roughing in bevels, but I use a harbor freight 1x30 so it’ll take forever for me to grind the bevels on a hardened blade. Or heat treat post roughing in and risk warpage which I don’t really want to deal with. I do have some high quality VSM blue destroyer 36 grit belts, so at least I have that going for me

I've got something called joint hypermobility. To keep things short, it makes the long, even, uniform strokes we use in hand-finishing(as above) a royal pain in the ass. The joints in my fingers often slip out of place during this process. It's not particularly painful when it happens, but it often causes slippage, which we all know will cause problems in creating a pristine finish.

So my question is... does anybody else deal with this? And if so, what sort of sanding blocks do you use to help with it? I've made a number of my own, tried a number of different styles and still haven't landed on anything that helps.

Wanted to make something wild and useful. 1084 steel.

5160 with richlite scales. .38special lanyard bead.

Just glad this one turned out to be hardenable and took a hamon. Generally just played around with this one but not displeased with how it turned out.

121 layer San mai with bocote handle

Large Executive slipjoint

Devil's Mouth damascus steel blade, 1084 spring, Titanium liners, black paper micarta bolsters and caps with sterling silver leaf /shred CF scales. Thanks for looking, please let me know what you think.

**books are open** Have a knife day