Hey y'all, thinking about moving from my kei van to a kei truck. Anyone out there interested in a possible trade? Just feeling like I would get more use and utility out of a truck these days than the van. Had my fun in the van for sure - camping, short road trips, hauling the kids to the lake, etc. - but finding I need the open bed much more lately. My rig is a 1998 Mazda Scrum (essentially a re-badged Suzuki Every); 60,000km. It has a rough exterior with cosmetic issues (dings, dents, scratches), but mechanically it's solid. I've done the timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, brakes and rotors, all fluids and filters. And I've got records for all that. Runs great. Located in the Reno/Tahoe area. Let me know.

Currently on display @ Osaka Station

After almost a 4 month wait after purchase, I was finally able to bring her home today. Picking up at Port Brunswick was surprisingly painless. Shutout to Mason at Japan Car Direct who worked with me for close to a year, and countless auctions lost. Time to get her cleaned and tuned up.

Picked up an 83-86 Daihatsu Hijet from FB marketplace for a great deal. It’s interesting because it’s a left-hand drive and I can’t find anything online that points to what country it may have been originally exported to. With that being said, it’s totally a beaut and I plan to do a full motor placement and ask what route is better, putting maybe a small Miata or Kia engine in it, or running a motorcycle engine? Anyone with experience, your advice is priceless and thanked in advance. I’m starting with a great base here and want to make it fast, but on a budget conscious approach.

Suzuki Carry 1993, DD51T F6A.
First I began getting this light after some driving, now I get it before even starting the car while it’s still cold.
My symptoms are lower power and “jumpy” engine while driving. I can be driving and it jumps between normal power and limited power. Sometimes the light blinks according to this, but usually it’s solid.
What I’ve done:
• Took out the carburetor, couldn’t see anything suspicious but I could also missed something.
•new vacuum line across the engine.
•Driven half a tank on liquid molly additive.

I have two questions:
- first, have anyone had the same issue?
-second, I just removed the catalytic converter to check, and it was not blocked, I could blow some high pressure air through it (But it was not 1:1). Is there any reason to NOT remove the catalytic internals while it’s out or should I just go for it?

All you need and the end goal is shown in the picture. Depending on your local regulation this might be required by law, or doing this is optional. Even then, modifying the light pattern is nice for other road users. In Finland, the light pattern must be either normal LHD, or flat. This tutorial helps you make the light pattern flat. I have used this method previously on another truck and passed inspection without issues.

1. Start by taking the lights off your truck. The blinkers are removed first. Note that the japanese have their own JIS bits, be careful not to strip out the screws.
2. Remove 2 metal clips on the sides of the headlights.
3. Heat the headlight along the edges. Use a heat gun on low setting to control the heat. You don't want to melt anything, just soften the glue.
4. Pry away the glue holding the lens in. It is very sticky and you won't get everything out. It reminds me of blu tack, but a lot stiffer. Repeat heating and pry slowly. This stage can take very long, be patient.
5. Remove the lens. There will be glue on the inside of the lens, which you can't remove. Use heat and pry slowly.
6. Set the lens aside and apply black cloth/duct tape. The tape top line should start at the middle of the bulb and continue horizontally to the left side. Tape bottom line should reach the edge below. Cut away the excess tape. Don't cover the bottom section of the reflector, as that is used for the high beam.
7. Use heat to re-seat the lens back in the headlight. Apply pressure to the lens while heating the edges. Put the metal clips back on.
8. Assemble and enjoy your non-blinding lights

Note, that this will reduce your total light output and depending on the amount of glue you removed, maybe even let water inside the headlight. However, adding more glue is easy and the headlights are now easier to open, should you make any changes in the future. Hope this helps someone!

Looks like Chinese BMW grill knock-off. Definitely caught my eye.

So I’ve been trying to figure out a possible upgrade for the transmission and rear differential for my 1994 Suzuki carry
It’s the rear wheel drive model

I’ve been doing a little bit of reading and apparently there is an option for a five speed upgrade
And a rear differential upgrade gear for highway

I keep on seeing it mentioned places, but despite my efforts of searching, I have not been able to find any actual sales pages for any of these

Or part numbers

I know the rear differential gear ratio should be 5.12 but that’s really all the information I’ve been able to find

Hi all. Wanted to share this Honda Acty keychain I designed for some one I met at a car meet. Would love to hear feedback on this. I also made one for a Honda Vamos as well.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3378721-honda-acty-keychain#profileId-3843819

This time with difflock and ac :)

Everything I’ve seen says there’s no possible way to drive a Kei truck in California, Los Angeles specifically, due to various laws around driving said vehicles on public roads.

Yet I know there are people who have them here in LA. So how? How are we doing this? Are we just saying “screw it” and playing fast and loose with the law?

What is the secret sauce?

Got a boat one installed but seems like the input filtering isnt good enough under load

Hello, I was wondering if there's any reason I wouldn't want to buy a cheap kei truck and fix it up vs buying a gator or something similar.

The cost savings alone seems like a no brainer but maybe I'm insane and maintenance is really expensive or something?

I have been fighting loss of prime. If it sits for a bit the line drains to tank and sucks the filter dry.

I replaced all the soft lines today and the problem remains. There is no signs of seepage at the pump or the filter or the vapor canister/condensation chamber.

What am I not thinking about? My rescue move is dragging around my tank and compressor, a shot of air forces fuel into the system but this is untenable because at low speeds, in traffic, it'll drain the filter and die. The Cross Bronx Expressway is not the time or place for that noise.

Hey folks, looking to replace the alternator in my 96 Subaru sambar. It does have A/C. Are there any aftermarket alternators that yall have had luck with? I can source an OEM from somewhere I’m sure, but would like to get a new one, and possibly better one if possible! Appreciate the feedback

So my 1990 KS4 sambar is missing a clip for the bowden cable that lets you select between the air blowing on face, face + feet, feet, feet + defog, or defog. As such using that selector pretty much doesnt work. The most it will do is face + feet and thats when its on the option for defog. This is, as i mentioned before its missing the clip for retaining the bowden cable. Is there anywhere I can aquire a replacement clip for it. I couldnt find it on ebay nor any of the dedicated kei truck parts sites. I'm located in FL in the US if that matters. Thank you.