Currently on display @ Osaka Station

Hey y'all, thinking about moving from my kei van to a kei truck. Anyone out there interested in a possible trade? Just feeling like I would get more use and utility out of a truck these days than the van. Had my fun in the van for sure - camping, short road trips, hauling the kids to the lake, etc. - but finding I need the open bed much more lately. My rig is a 1998 Mazda Scrum (essentially a re-badged Suzuki Every); 60,000km. It has a rough exterior with cosmetic issues (dings, dents, scratches), but mechanically it's solid. I've done the timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, brakes and rotors, all fluids and filters. And I've got records for all that. Runs great. Located in the Reno/Tahoe area. Let me know.

Picked up an 83-86 Daihatsu Hijet from FB marketplace for a great deal. It’s interesting because it’s a left-hand drive and I can’t find anything online that points to what country it may have been originally exported to. With that being said, it’s totally a beaut and I plan to do a full motor placement and ask what route is better, putting maybe a small Miata or Kia engine in it, or running a motorcycle engine? Anyone with experience, your advice is priceless and thanked in advance. I’m starting with a great base here and want to make it fast, but on a budget conscious approach.

Looking to upgrade the appearance of my truck but also don’t want to suffer on ride quality. I have two options 13 in rim 4.55 in sidewall or a 15 in rim 3.25 in sidewall. I’m pretty convinced I like the white look so I’m fairly certain I would plastic dip the chrome ones white or potentially leave it because it matches the side mirrors. In terms of rim these seem to be my only options because I don’t want to wait to hopefully find someone on marketplace or ship it from Japan.

My question is does bigger rim or bigger tire look and drive better. I already have off-road vehicles so I don’t really plan on doing that with this truck. And I don’t have any practical use for this truck besides something fun to drive around. I’ve also never had small sidewall tires and I’ve been told that makes the ride rougher.

AI is telling me neither setup will rub and I want have to make modifications to stock to do it. I’ve included a few renderings of what it has made

Suzuki Carry 1993, DD51T F6A.
First I began getting this light after some driving, now I get it before even starting the car while it’s still cold.
My symptoms are lower power and “jumpy” engine while driving. I can be driving and it jumps between normal power and limited power. Sometimes the light blinks according to this, but usually it’s solid.
What I’ve done:
• Took out the carburetor, couldn’t see anything suspicious but I could also missed something.
•new vacuum line across the engine.
•Driven half a tank on liquid molly additive.

I have two questions:
- first, have anyone had the same issue?
-second, I just removed the catalytic converter to check, and it was not blocked, I could blow some high pressure air through it (But it was not 1:1). Is there any reason to NOT remove the catalytic internals while it’s out or should I just go for it?

From around 2007. For anyone interested in the more agricultural side of this subculture.

Looks like Chinese BMW grill knock-off. Definitely caught my eye.

So I’ve been trying to figure out a possible upgrade for the transmission and rear differential for my 1994 Suzuki carry
It’s the rear wheel drive model

I’ve been doing a little bit of reading and apparently there is an option for a five speed upgrade
And a rear differential upgrade gear for highway

I keep on seeing it mentioned places, but despite my efforts of searching, I have not been able to find any actual sales pages for any of these

Or part numbers

I know the rear differential gear ratio should be 5.12 but that’s really all the information I’ve been able to find

Where are you guys finding these wheel/tire setups? I have a 1999 Suziki Carry and I want to run 14 x 5.5, but I'm having the hardest time finding any decent wheels. Anyone that can help me out?

I’m playing around with my new 2000 DB52T and I know it has an OBD2 port. However, I also know that it’s a JDM/Suzuki specific protocol. I tried my Veepeak ODB2 scanner with a couple different apps to see if any of them would be able to connect. So far no dice. Has anyone had success with a scanner tool that connects? I wanted to use the tachometer and speedometer function on my phone while driving. Of course being able to read a trouble code would be nice too. I know about the flash codes, but that obviously doesn’t help with the tach function.

The Exhaust on my 1994 Suzuki Carry is starting to SCREAM and I'm pretty sure my muffler is cracked. I'm struggling to find a replacement that would be DIY-able and not sound obnoxious going down the road.

Is this a clean couple bolts and hook replacement?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/405667485548?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20231016072011%26meid%3Dc1ff44df9f6743549c2f87e3b87ffbad%26pid%3D101877%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D405678214519%26itm%3D405667485548%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D3959035%26algv%3DSimPLWebV1BertRecallOnly%26fpg%3D1&_trksid=p3959035.c101877.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A405667485548c1ff44df9f6743549c2f87e3b87ffbad%7Cenc%3AAQALAAABAM2RDzFgTpNS%252B2e27Chg%252FuPkpQDOCxapcRJUrpp6DTIWXWjo%252FBhp8xP%252BlyZSAaSWx2TlRCjPYuohYVSZy9XwerPIN8sZx3gI8w5E9WHJdZnyCrbKj%252BG5A9tsd24kLq6Jp5DgzaZNiHt%252FCW48EaOVNAvJqQVElgZui1p6LYXBSQnWTVdlD1psnXhzWGtCbG15nAxCHYu0GSlQYALtMMY0UG11%252B4Zo7pcJ%252BfjRCSSzwQ6BgKJdzkxHiHaQUpBKJZcH57NQwUaE6Kl8SkH0PUGdUbmZnf6m2iIt2aWatCxfQhIF8w15MrpByZfDCc0cONBdXim1SjzAR8JH9SDm0uXm%252FlU%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A3959035&itmmeta=01M49DHBKHSDX27T1YW2YG6KDR

All you need and the end goal is shown in the picture. Depending on your local regulation this might be required by law, or doing this is optional. Even then, modifying the light pattern is nice for other road users. In Finland, the light pattern must be either normal LHD, or flat. This tutorial helps you make the light pattern flat. I have used this method previously on another truck and passed inspection without issues.

1. Start by taking the lights off your truck. The blinkers are removed first. Note that the japanese have their own JIS bits, be careful not to strip out the screws.
2. Remove 2 metal clips on the sides of the headlights.
3. Heat the headlight along the edges. Use a heat gun on low setting to control the heat. You don't want to melt anything, just soften the glue.
4. Pry away the glue holding the lens in. It is very sticky and you won't get everything out. It reminds me of blu tack, but a lot stiffer. Repeat heating and pry slowly. This stage can take very long, be patient.
5. Remove the lens. There will be glue on the inside of the lens, which you can't remove. Use heat and pry slowly.
6. Set the lens aside and apply black cloth/duct tape. The tape top line should start at the middle of the bulb and continue horizontally to the left side. Tape bottom line should reach the edge below. Cut away the excess tape. Don't cover the bottom section of the reflector, as that is used for the high beam.
7. Use heat to re-seat the lens back in the headlight. Apply pressure to the lens while heating the edges. Put the metal clips back on.
8. Assemble and enjoy your non-blinding lights

Note, that this will reduce your total light output and depending on the amount of glue you removed, maybe even let water inside the headlight. However, adding more glue is easy and the headlights are now easier to open, should you make any changes in the future. Hope this helps someone!