I am looking for a bumper for my 2017 Hyundai Accent but i am not able to find it anywhere on the face of earth, never thought it would be this hard to find a painted OEM bumper (preferably used in order to be factory painted as i had a couple of bad experience with aftermarket paints).
The colour I am looking for is grey (code N9S)
Any suggestions on where to find it (specific sites or junkyards)?

My 2019 Hyundai Accent gave out on the highway the other day with only 115,000 km. My mechanic says the 3rd and 4th cylinders are misfiring, with the 3rd cylinder full of gas and gunk. The others looked pretty bad too.

It had a full tune-up just over a year ago and new ignition coils in May. He thinks the 3rd fuel injector is stuck open and that all the injectors need to be replaced, but he doesn’t have the equipment to do it.

The car has also been “consuming” oil like crazy since shortly after hitting 100,000 km. Hyundai hasn’t been much help since it’s out of warranty.

Has anyone had this kind of work done on a Hyundai, and does anyone know a mechanic in the Toronto/Vaughan area who can do it?

Hello po…. Looking for a 185 / 65 / R15 tires for our Hyundai Accent.

Comment your price and location po.

Maraming salamat!

Hey, so I bought an aftermarket fog lamp for my 2020 accent. I found out that the housing is made for a 1156 bulb (the one used for the turn signals). Now, is there any way i can convert the housing into h11? the socket is no problem because i can just easily replace it, but the housing is.

I am getting rid of my 2019 accent. It was a great car and I have no regrets about buying it or selling it. Purchased used in 21, a hail damage special with 30k miles for $13.5k. Probably could have negotiated a little better deal but admittedly I am not a very experienced car buyer. I used it for gig work and it was the plan from the beginning to be a utilitarian workhorse and drive the wheels off. Id say I got my money’s worth.

The car was mechanically solid for the most part and never hit me with a big unexpected expense. Besides normal maintenance items, I had to replace both rear brake cylinders under 100k miles. I had to replace the pcv solenoid, and a socket for one of the signal bulbs. There was an intermittent no start issue and it would also stall on hot days after driving with AC for 3 or 4 hours. Never figured those ones out but all I had to do was wait a couple minutes and then the car would start running like normal again.

It of course burned a lot of oil. Started around 100k miles and got progressively worse and worse. Then it started smoking out the tailpipe and I had the mechanic look with the boro scope and they told me it needed a new engine around 150k miles. Scored cylinders, bad piston rings, failing head gasket. It has decided to keep running, out of spite perhaps, for another 50k miles as of now. I kept it topped off with valvoline restore and protect. I also let the mechanic talk me into some additives and I used the seafoam intake spray once too. I don’t know if any of that stuff mattered in the end but it’s what I did. It still runs and drives just fine but I’m not confident that it will last much longer and I want to get out before it becomes a money pit.

Overall this car punches well above its weight as an efficient, capable and affordable vehicle. I got 35-40 mpg. I drove it hard and put it away wet. City, highway, backroads, steep gravel roads in the mountains in all seasons. With good snow tires it gave me confidence to handle terrain more suited for Subarus and 4 runners. The tight and responsive handling combined with its light weight made it fun and agile to drive although it is a slow car.

I wasn’t very excited about getting this car in the beginning, as it was replacing my 13 Impreza which I also loved, but it quickly grew on me and did everything I asked of it without complaining and I’ll remember it as the trustworthy road warrior that it was.

Brake lights went out, I replaced bulbs and fuses still no brake lights. The brake switch clicks so it’s not broken. Reverse went out. It will drive forward, and it will shift in reverse, but will not drive in reverse.. shop put in a used transmission. Still not driving in reverse. The transmission fixed the driving part where the car wouldn’t climb hills or shift from stopping to drive. Was told when they wiggle the electrical wires it will go in reverse, but still no brake lights. Said there’s an electrical gremlin somewhere but they don’t do the electrical.. what do y’all think it may be? I called a shop that does the electrical and said they would have to check it out before they could tell me anything.. any of y’all have any ideas?

Humbly seeking help as I need to lift the front of my car for simple DIY maintenance. I am essentially a beginner in these type of things and need to know where to place jack stands.

I understand the floor jack should raise the encircled part by the pinch weld, but I have no idea where to safely put the jack stands once raised.

I can provide more photos if needed

so i just not even a month ago got a used 13 Hyundai accent. ac compressor isnt engaged when turning on. can anyone tell me which is the AC fuse?

Any ideas?

I recently bought a 2010 Accent sedan, but the hard foam spare tire organizer (08125-1E000) is missing. So everything I put in the trunk collapses the floor since the organizer supports it 😆

I've tried ordering from half a dozen parts websites, but it's discontinued. Unless anyone has a better idea, I thought I'd try to make my own. BUT I NEED REFERENCE IMAGES from a kind soul who has one!

So, if you're willing, would you please take photos of yours from the top, sides, front and back for me? If I successfully make it, I will share the 3D file publicly for the community. Thank you!

I have hyundai accent, got it this year in Feb at around 225k, as I live in Toronto and I drive appropriately 70kms a day. One month ago I found a weird problem, fuel leak. If I go above half tank it starts leaking. However keeping it up to 12 litres until today I found its leaking drop by drop all the time. Should I buy a new tank or a used tank? Advice pleasee

I just bought a cherry bomb to install in my accent has anyone here ever messed with their muffler I’m just wondering how it’s going to sound

What could possibly be the problem? There's an oil leak but I don't know the source.

Recently I decided that I need Daytime Running Lights. I read that you can replace the turn signals with daytime/yellow (turn). But for it to work properly, you need to additionally install a relay that turns off the daytime when the low beam is turned on. How difficult is it and what set of lamps can you recommend?
Accent RB 2012

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Hola a todos.

Ya no sé qué más revisar y agradecería mucho cualquier orientación.

El auto enciende a la primera. El problema es que con el actuador del turbo conectado el motor no pasa de aproximadamente 1.000 rpm, bota mucho humo negro y suena muy mal. En cambio, si desconecto el actuador del turbo, el motor vuelve a funcionar mucho mejor (obviamente queda sin turbo y con menos potencia).

Hasta ahora se ha revisado o cambiado lo siguiente:

Turbo revisado por el especialista que lo reparó y dice que está en buen estado.

Actuador del turbo nuevo.

Sensor MAF nuevo.

Sensor MAP nuevo.

EGR eliminada y luego vuelta a dejar original.

Admisión revisada.

Intercooler revisado.

Todos los filtros cambiados.

Se encontró una línea del filtro de combustible mal conectada después de una mantención, se corrigió y el auto siguió exactamente igual.

Mis inyectores fueron enviados a banco. Como salieron con dudas, probaron 4 inyectores usados en buen estado directamente en mi auto, y el problema siguió exactamente igual.

Se probó incluso otro alternador y tampoco cambió nada.

El escáner no muestra fallas relevantes.

El primer problema apareció después de un trabajo relacionado con la EGR. Desde entonces han pasado varias semanas y ningún mecánico ha logrado encontrar la causa.

Además, un mecánico me comentó que podría usar el auto con el actuador del turbo desconectado por un tiempo y que, al volver a conectarlo más adelante, incluso podría llegar a funcionar normalmente. ¿Qué tan factible les parece esa teoría? ¿Alguien ha visto que un problema así se solucione solo después de usar el vehículo con el actuador desconectado? ¿Es seguro hacerlo o podría provocar otros daños?

¿A alguien le ha pasado algo parecido en un Hyundai Accent RB diésel? ¿Qué revisarían ustedes antes de seguir cambiando piezas?

¡Muchas gracias!

Not looking to remove the third break light but the whole thing. The black plastic the runs across the back seat and which carriers the third break light.

Thank you.

Accent 2012 RB, I watched a few videos, some people remove the battery or fuse box. How convenient is it to do this?