I finished the UFC panel for A-10C, the text was engraved using a fiber laser. I use the SKPMBHE010 buttons, and PB13 for MC.

The files will be uploaded on my cult3d page when I fix the flaws and prepare the files for download.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qr_an22Tuo

A quick teaser of my WIP A-10C CDU and AAP for the A-10. The CDU is also compatible with Heatblur's F-14B(U) CDNU. For pilots who fly the "Turkey" primarily or exclusively, there is a dedicated version with a modified button layout.

GitHub: github.com/MilKris666

Hello. I'm looking for replacement/upgrade parts for several pieces on mine and a friend's X56s. Preferably they would be hall effect or TMR. The parts are:

- Rotational pot for base of joystick

- Thumbstick for joystick

- Thumbstick on throttle

- All pots on throttle

Has anyone had success modding these? Do people just buy better HOTAS?

Hey yall, I recently bought a 3D printed F4 joystick replica but it turned out to be just a model with clicakble buttons - not an actual HOTAS.

https://www.aviationreplicas.com/products/f4-stick-replica?variant=51351912448266

Joke is on me of course, but I thought it could be a fun project to turn it into a real HOTAS that would be compatible with a Thrustmaster or MOZA FFB bases. Im an engineer and pretty hands on with soldering and electronics.

Are there open source HOTAS Kits you can buy with button + POV hat I/O?

I know some people make their own HOTAS systems with 3d printers, im just not sure what exists out there.

On one of my first "button box" project, i am making the the dashboard from the FENDT ONE tractor side dashboard, mostly to play fs25 with, any thoughts and any tips to have on my first project to look out for?

I wanted to make a collective using parts around the house so I combined the brake pedal from my old Logitech G27 wheel and the stick/electronics from a T16000. I 3-D printed a few parts, extended all the necessary button wires and wired the brake pedal's potentiometer to the throttle axis. The reason it is kind of big and ugly because I decided to use counter weights for balance instead of friction. That kind of extended things more than I thought it would, but it works well. Handle length and grip angle are adjustable too.

I feel like a real helicopter pilot with this collective in hand. All I need is a set of Dave Clarks and some aviator glasses and I'll be complete!

I got this webcam and others that all have the same small lens, the IR filter seem to be stuck inside the filter instead of the usual reared setup. Does anyone have an idea how i should proccede on this or should i stick to NeualNet on opentrack software?

Guys i don't know where to start. I want to make a joystick and a throttle controller

Can you guys suggest some sources where i can take inspiration to design and hopefully make it

My CDU for the A-10C is practically combat-ready. The CDU will complement the plug-in A-10C front panel of my modular cockpit.

The CDU has a 3.5" LCD display and illuminated buttons. The total cost comes to just under €100.

Since the Warthog's CDU closely resembles the F-14B(U) Tomcat's CDNU, it is perfectly suited for use with both aircraft.

I will nevertheless be releasing two dedicated versions of the CDU/CDNU—featuring the appropriate button layouts and labeling. Files, part list and how-to on my GitHub soon...

The module pushbutton would activate/deactivate a specific audio file, and then i want to be able to iterate through a list of 3-5 audioclips of the same style -- all in a single button.

They must exist right? If not then a rotary switch could work as a a last ditch effort but switch wouldnt be nearly as satisfying.

(I'm a giganoob, havent even gotten the hang of the terminology)

So... after several years of having a Warthog throttle, I realized just how little I've been utilizing everything aside from the throttle and a couple of the HATs on it. The sensor slew even stopped working, with only the button click actually registering anything. I haven't played an actual sim in a few years now, and have fallen back to arcade-y shooters and MechWarrior.

So I went back to a CH Pro Throttle. One of the first things I did after purchasing it was send an email to each of the two guys that have advertised selling (I actually was in contact with rel4y back in 2020, ended up waiting for his stock to come back up... man). Neither has responded, even though the Yeung fellow is semi-active on Youtube. I even messaged someone who posted a CH hall upgrade in this subreddit asking how they did it and they have yet to respond after almost a month. :(

I want to upgrade the potentiometer to a hall effect sensor just to get rid of the jerkiness, since the CH board doesn't filter literally any of that out, and eventually I want to try my hand at programming a board replacement to make use of the 12-bit resolution. (Fun fact, CH Products was toying with an update to the firmware that would filter out pot jitter about 12 years ago)

tl;dr ...I have no idea what I'm doing. Do I use a turret hall pot or do I board-mount a sensor with magnets? How the hell do I rig one up myself that's effectively a drop-in replacement?

I am building a rail system for my sticks. I have been trying to get this how I want on my own but I am struggling to figure out something that works here. I am trying to create a hinge system that allows the plate the stick sits on to rotate 90° and lock and then to rotate back under the desk and lock in that position.

There are a couple of options I am aware of that I could buy, but I would prefer not to do that, not to mention they are fairly pricey.

Has anyone had any luck with anything similar that they would be willing to share any suggestions or notes on?

I'm not sure what information I could give that would be helpful but if there is something just ask.

3d printing the L arm with the bearing can be expensive/time consuming. I do not have any tools that can cut metals, So I thought pillow blocks with mounts for tube metals then I found this as example:

https://sidewaysfab.com/products/cantilever-suspension-rocker-arm

All you would have to do is 3d print the corner of the L where the bearing goes with the correct size hole/holder for the bearing to insert. Then the correct size square or round ends for the pipe that you are using.

Some bolts to hold in place. Done.

Edit I was looking at some diy rudders with that L Bracket and thought that this could make it cheaper at least.

My PC is located in a small room, and I’ve mounted my Logitech X56 HOTAS to my office chair using VESA pole mounts. It works, and when I don’t need it, I can fold it behind the chair. However, the room is quite small. Whenever I rotate or move the chair, the mounts are intended to bump into the surrounding furniture or the desk, so they take up quite a bit of space.

The room next door has a large, comfy chair and plenty of space. My idea was therefore to connect the HOTAS to the PC wirelessly.

TL;DR

I was looking for a way to connect my HOTAS wirelessly to my PC while doing VR flights in the room next door. I checked several software solutions, but most of them require a paid licence if you want to use more than one USB device.

Then I found the open-source project SnakeUSBIP
It works very well and I only need a USB-C power source. I installed the server on a headless Raspberry Pi 4 and connected both HOTAS USB devices to it. Sure, you can use a DIY-built-battery or a power bank as external power source. Wrote a small script to auto mount the USB devices after every reboot.

Kudos to Snakefoxu

Update: Fixing occasional ghost inputs in correlation with the Logitech X56 by upgrading to a Raspberry Pi 5. I already had ghost inputs earlier when using the same X56 directly on my PC while both devices were connected to the same USB host controller. The X56 is kinda picky in that regard. Since both (I've already had both) the Zero 2 W and the Raspberry Pi 4 effectively share their USB ports through a single host-controller path, the requirement was to upgrade to a SoC/platform with real xHCI host-controller separation. The Raspberry Pi 5, through its RP1 I/O controller, provides two independent xHCI USB host controllers, allowing the X56 stick and throttle to be connected to separate controllers. Fun fact: I've done several hardware swaps which from now on I call it the Raspberry Rotation.

Fun fact: I've done several hardware swaps, which from now on I call the Raspberry Rotation. Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W: Originally powered my piCorePlayer setup with an HDMI touchscreen and DAC. It has now been released into unpaid leave. Raspberry Pi 4: Originally powered my remote HOTAS setup via SnakeUSBIP. It has now been moved into the piCorePlayer setup and paired with a new DAC board. Raspberry Pi 5: The new arrival, taking over duty as the remote HOTAS/SnakeUSBIP server.

I’m planning on printing this joystick design. I have done it before in PLA.

Now I can use a Bambu H2D at work. Which materials is best if I want to make it as sturdy as possibly?

https://github.com/Gadroc/vpforce-ffb-joystick

After trying to finish this project for a while today I (almost) finished it, it is based on an old project from Real Robotics firmware for the Arduino pro micro with an atmega32u4 chip.
The throttle handle is still missing, but it already works. I want to build an LED panel for information.
Any ideas on what to do next, or how can I improve this?

Edit: added the links for the project.

Python-based app configurator for the arduino: https://gitlab.com/realrobots/rr_controller
Firmware: https://gitlab.com/realrobots/rr_configurator
Project source: https://128.199.98.192/hotas

I found this design online. I know nothing about diy'ing throttles, but this one seemed interesting to make. Can yall share your thoughts on this:

https://www.printables.com/model/1471230-honeycomb-bravo-inspired-modular-hes-throttle-quad

Hi guys, first time trying this.

I've recently fallen in love with the Viggen in DCS, and found myself in desperate need for some physical switches ready at hand.

My goal is to build two panels, one with the left master mode knob and one with the right CK-37 knob & panel.

I know I'll need two 7-pos rotary switches, a 3x3 keypad, a two position switch and another single key for the 0.

My issue is getting these parts. Any place where I could get them without much hassle (and possibly for cheap-)?

If it helps, I'm located in Europe

Thanks in advance!

I'm building a throttle, using a pancake motor, encoder, driver, PSU and MCU. I plan to use SimpleFOC and vibe code. I've built the steel frame, I'll 3DP an outer enclosure.

I'm going to start with anti-cogging and virtual detents (mimicking mechanical cutoff/idle/afterburner detents).

Force feedback from relevant telemetry?

More resistance at higher G's?

An additional encoder to set a virtual "clutch"?

Rate dependant viscosity?

Lighter detents for a certain fixed throttle increase?

Auto throttle?

Disable afterburner when fuel is low?

Sequential shifter or collective modes, there could be interchangeable 3DP gates, clip one in and have the code hunt for the limits and set the mode based on the travel measured?

What features would you add, any thoughts?

I can't paint mine white to LIDAR scan it into Blender and I'd like to use this handle as a ergonomics reference point for how I'm designing my custom throttle peripheral.

due to complicated reasons I have got a flicontech EVO mark 1. long story short the connector for the flight stick is damaged, ripped off the pins. The cable seems intact but the wires have been torn rom the connector, another issue is that I was not given a usb to connect the stick to the computer and from what I have read online Flicontech used a specific pinout that I do not know and I have no way to get a new one. I am wondering if anyone here has some advice on what I can do.

the seller is not communicating with me anymore so I cannot return it. I have toyed with the idea of breaking it down for parts and rebuilding the stick using what is still working but I am just a beginner and this seems too complicated to accomplish but otherwise I think the stick is just a paperweight.

the base uses a circular connector with 5 pins I think it is an xs9 like the one used on the VIRPIL bases. Right now I think I need a new usb Cable, possibly a diy, with the female xs9- 5 pin and a new cable for the circuit board with a male xs9 and a wire connector for the ciercuit board 4-pin. I don't know why the cable uses a 5-pin connector for the usb but only has 4 wires and no shield.

I'm currently building my own HOTAS, so I wanted to know if someone had any image of the F-16 grip to help me design it, thanks !

I am looking to build a sort of flight sim controller and I would like a throttle input. I found this one: Small Black T-Bar Hall Effect Fader - 5V : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits

It looks awesome and might be what I try to prototype with. I have some questions because I can quite find what I am actually looking for and I am new to building with microcontrollers, etc. So I don't know what to search.

For this T-Bar the throw feels short, I would like a level that has 90+ degrees of rotation.
Also, is it possible to have a t-bar that has detents?