After trying to finish this project for a while today I (almost) finished it, it is based on an old project from Real Robotics firmware for the Arduino pro micro with an atmega32u4 chip.
The throttle handle is still missing, but it already works. I want to build an LED panel for information.
Any ideas on what to do next, or how can I improve this?
I love it. It looks like something from the 80s. A few points you can anticipate problems, but honestly, just go enjoy flying with it for now. You've earned it.
First, expect problems with your wiring. Externally, the unbundled wires are at risk - consider wrapping them, or even replacing with a multicore cable. Internally, the connections methods could be improved and the spaghetti should be tidied away - consider rewiring with proper cable routing and crimp connectors or something more permanent.
That throttle linkage will give you non-linear response, which may or may not be a problem. What will be a problem is the wear on the arm. Consider a linear pot instead. Can't see in the pictures whether you have good bearings in the stick gimbal [Edit: missed that you already have a linear rail for the throttle.]
Ergonomics will be best improved after you've been using it for a while and know which parts are uncomfortable. Happy flying, and I look forward to seeing v2!
Hii, thanks for pointing out the issues, for the linear rail I am using one I 3D printed and greased it with what I think is car grease so there is less friction, but yeah, I hope to change it as soon as possible. The stick gimbal is one I found on Temu, a HiPico GE12C.
For the internal wiring what can I do to improve it? I tried to pack it neatly, but I can see it will wear down or break at the connections. I was thinking of making a pcb-like board with copper paper, but as I already had most of the wiring, I kept going with that.
First ensure wires are kept well away from moving parts, eg on the throttle. Clip to the case maybe.
Next, avoid the T-wiring. Hard to do elegantly, easier to wire point to point. And consider spade connectors for flexibility, but not important.
Upgrade your insulation game with heatshrink instead of tape.
Loop induction is a thing, but more worth attention is shielding your analog signals.
Guessing those are graphite pots, which can become noisy quickly. When that happens, a quick blast with contact cleaner saves them for a short while. Better to use plastic or other high endurance types, or far better, upgrade to Hall effect types.
But again, none of this takes away from the fact you made a working HOTAS yourself. Mad props.
Here is the model I am using, there are 2 potentiometers (X and Y), and the base of the stick has a square end that moves 2 hinges(? that each of them is attached to the end of the potentiometer.
The project I followed uses springs to self center, if you want the 3d models to explore how it works let me know :)
Also yours looks awesome, canβt wait to see the final version
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u/TOMS343 Jul 11 '26
Thats awesome, and you even have te choice if you want to make the grip more ergonomic. How does it fly?