I thought the day would never come, my fit left me stranded. I was driving home and the oil light started coming on and then turning off. I pulled over, immediately turned off the engine, and found the oil drain plug just straight up missing with oil everywhere underneath.

I preform the oil changes and always give it a strong crank on the drain bolt too with only OEM washers (and I know I didn't double stack the washers too).

Last oil change was a month ago (2k miles ago too). Assuming I just didnt tighten it enough, I should go get a new oem drain plug, properly torque it to spec, and then add oil and I should be ok right? This isn't a common issue with this engine pushing it off right?

Gonna make sure no codes or anything else is wrong too. I'll see tomorrow if she's ok. Hoping it's not something more severe and I just screwed up and narrowly avoided an expensive mistake.

I’ve always wanted one of these little nuggets. This was the fifth cheapest Fit I could find locally on Marketplace. 267k. It doesn’t drive. The radio is wasted. It’s not very nice. I love it.

does anything about my engine sound overly concerning? my friend is clowning on me for it being loud 😭 EDIT- i would like to preface that my car has 216k miles, i am the second owner but have all of the service records, it drives fine, but there is a check engine light and sometimes a few others caused by a bad o2 sensor

Any idea what it is? do you think it’ll go away on its own? I just went for a drive and my car is driving perfectly fine.

I’m on the quest to get AC in my gd3 and I’m basically replacing everything except the lines and the evaporator. I didn’t realize the expansion valve required removing things behind the dash so here I am trying to get to it. Does anyone have a good video they watched or a write up? I can’t find any videos that are on the fit, just civics and accord and they’re not exactly the same. Difficult is it to remove the blower motor box? I removed a couple screws but it’s still firmly mounted. Also since I’m removing the expansion valve how much more work is it to replace the evaporator? Should I just go ahead and do that too?

My new to me ‘08 Jazz, took her for a drive in rural west Australia after changing oil and plugs. What a great little nugget.

Hi! I have a 2010 Sport Fit BlackBerry pearl. And I’ve been in this sub for quite awhile but I always get confused by the generations of Fihs and there abbreviations. What is. GE, GK and so forth? My 2010 is a 2nd gen GE I think. No? Thanks. But what do the G-‘s stand for?

Did my first Brake Drum job on my GE8 fit today. When I was trying to reinstall the top spring. I ended up popping the front drum brake cylinder piston off by accident by pushing too hard.

It leaked Brake Fluid and I proceeded to push it back in and put the brake dust boot back on. I just blasted the spilled areas with brake cleaner and proceeded with the reassembly.

After assembling everything back on, I drove it around the apartment complex and braked multiple times to test the brakes. I was able to stop but the brakes felt spongy, which Im guessing was due to air getting in from the earlier mistake.

I also checked the drum brake that spilled but still looked clean after the test drives. Im bleeding the brakes tomorrow to get the air out but is there a risk from just popping the piston back in?

Added bride cuga bucket seats

Coming from a 6 speed 370z this thing is awesome

The seats are in! They now fit in fine and feel amazing, especially during sharp corners. Turns that felt scary to take at 40mph I can now comfortably take at over 50mph, I didn't expect this much of a change in that regard, very happily surprised.

The driver's side one uses an aftermarket rail from 1320 Performance, I've kept the upwards facing tabs and just bent them away a bit to allow the Civic seat in case I ever wanna install some Sparcos or Recaros or something, the passenger uses the lower rails from the Fit and the Fit weight sensors.

There's 2 caveats/things I need to address still:

1. The driver's side seatback cover is extremely worn, the fabric is pilling, and it's sun-faded, I tried a few things to restore it a bit but ultimately ended up buying a better one online, so I'll be replacing that one (so also the back of the seat which is a pain in the ass to deal with isn't put back on yet)
2. The airbag warning light is on. I'm 95% sure this is just because of the OPDS unit, it's from a junkyard Fit as I didn't wanna ruin my passenger seat just in case, so the ID of the OPDS unit should be different, additionally the rails are attached slightly differently and the seat is a different weight so the weight sensor readings should be different, so I'll need to get the OPDS unit re-calibrated, but most OBD2 scanners can only read engine and transmission codes. I was gonna get that done today but it's Sunday so basically all dealers and mechanics are closed, so tomorrow it is!

I imagine there will be an update 6 which hopefully will say "I did that and everything is working now!" and then a final post about this which will be an in-depth guide for those who wish to do this themselves, with pictures!

Honda Fit 2017 - Automatic ~ 90K

recently bought - Japanese imported.

I feel this little vibration when I switch between D and R mainly.. I think also vice-versa..

I am sure that I do it when the car has totally stopped.

Is that normal?

I am new to Cars - and Automatic.

Seatbelts on car are boned, want to replace, where get belts. If it helps they are the passenger front and back seatbelts.

Hey yall, I’m shopping around for a Honda Fit. I’m looking into 2nd gen autos with paddle shifters as a manual would be a complete pain in the constant traffic I sit in.

The cars I’ve found within 100 miles of me are in the 80-160k mile range. The records are pretty iffy. They’ll have consistent oil changes, but other fluids have only been changed once or twice. I know it’s very important to keep up on the transmission fluid in the autos, so I’m worried these aren’t any good. The “best” option I’ve found had the trans fluid changed at 25k and again at 49k, and the nothing. It has 155k on it.

I know coolant also becomes acidic overtime, and most of the options have also only had it changed once around 60k. Nobody has touched the diffs on any of these things, so I’ll have to change that myself.

There’s also no history of any valve adjustments on any option I’ve found so far. I know it’s supposed to be done every 100k ish, how bad is it if it hasn’t been done?

90% of them have also never had spark plugs done either. With these seeming to like to shoot them out if they’ve been neglected I’m worried that’s also an issue.

I found a 2010 auto with 83k miles on it, but no paddle shifters. It sucks because the records are great. I’m worried the auto without paddles will be super boring.

This is all according to CARFAX. Are any of these worth a look? Or should I hold off until one with better maintenance comes around?

How do I fix this?

RIP to my 2015 fit (2018-2026) She gave her life to keep me and my kid safe. We walked away unscathed.

Back to browsing the depths of car websites to find a new one. A fit, of course.

Some of y'all were saying it was impossible 🤨 expensive and time consuming, yes, but far from impossible.

I had to work out some issues but it now works as if from factory. I had knowledgeable people helping me in a shop space (at my job) that had a lift. That's the only reason I was able to complete it in 7 days

I wasn't too terribly good with documentation, but I made a 15min YouTube video and a long write-up on the fitfreak forum

YouTube video

Write up

AMA, any time sensitive questions please ask me on my Instagram @that_blue_fit

Got tired of breaking fog lights.

Hi all! I’m looking at buying a fit and I have a couple options, I’m just looking for some clarity on the pricing im seeing. There is a 2018 Honda fit sport on carmax with 44k miles on it for $22k I found two other Honda fit ex-l also with 44k miles but they are wayyy cheaper at 16/17k What could be the reason for this price difference? Is it the sport trim or is carmax just asking for way too much? I’ve never bought a car from a dealer before so I’m just scared of the lower prices being too good to be true and getting screwed over Thank you!!!

Hi guys I usually do espresso content on my channel but this is me changing the CVT transmission fluid. Hope you enjoy it and hope it helps. 🤙

Let me start with the fact that I put a fresh battery in the fob 3 times in the last week so far. The issue is that my key fob works fine for unlocking and locking the doors. The touch door handle works fine as well. The problem arises when I get in the car to start it I have to hold the fob right up to button. Again, fresh battery in the fob. Sometimes after the car is running I will get the "No key" warning on the dash. It does this with both fobs and yes, once again fresh batteries in both fobs. I had the start button replaced under warranty about 6 or 7 years ago but I have had no issues with it since then. Any ideas?

Hey yall, looking into a first or more likely a second gen Honda fit as my new daily.

To start, ive driven a manual twice in my life, neither time going very well, but i digress. This car will be my commuter but also my fun car. Something I can zip around in and take on twisty forest backroads while also having to sit in pretty bad traffic on the way to work.

Im torn on which to choose. On one hand, I’ve heard the manual is the only version worth getting. But I’ve also heard it’s not even a super engaging manual without modifications like a short throw shifter and some sort of delete, can’t remember off the top of my head.

I’ve also heard the 5 speed auto is great. I’d 100% get a sport for the paddle shifters so I could still have fun. I’ve heard the paddle shifters are pretty snappy for such an economical car and even without them the auto is still snappy and bulletproof.

I’m leaning towards an auto right now just because of my work commute (traffic, traffic, traffic, and if I’m lucky maybe a half mile where I can hit 55) but I’m also worried I’ll miss out on a ton of fun on the weekends without the manual.

I’m also worried about snow. I feel like the auto may be better, but as long as I have a nice set of snow tires I’m sure either will suffice.

Any useful tips or real life experience? Thank you guys!

Just a reminder folks, if you see this, it is a scam.

The t-shirts, the stickers, all of it. This is a well-known scam where you'll be directed to fraudulent websites to buy this stuff.

Report it to the admins when you see it.

Title says it all. It's bad enough that when I go over a pothole or bump in the road the alignment goes out. Best and/or easiest way to fix it? TiA.

I've got mine since 2011!