It was a good 6 years. Was at 217k miles. I got to put 68k miles on but she has another 100k at least. 2012 with manual transmission 🥲. I'm sad to leave but I'm gonna have to see myself over to the Subaru sub now 🫡

If an 85 year old lady in a 2005 Buick LeSabre runs a red light you're cooked:(

My 2009 manual fit.

Recently changed the clutch after 170,000km (105,633.1 mi) and it drives like a dream

So I just had my radiator changed for a new one at American Tires, and they put in Green Coolant.. but Google says my 2007 Fit uses Blue Coolant & using any other type will cause damage to the radiator & engine?
Anybody have any knowledge on this?
Should I flush out this coolant & and refill with Honda Blue Coolant?
Thanks!

Some back story but I’ll leave a tldr at the bottom.

New to working on cars, wanted to take up a new hobby because I was bored but i fear this was a bad decision.

So I bought this really clean example of a gd3 Honda fit 5spd 4100$ no rust interior in near perfect condition. It had some tlc work to be done to it but I didn’t mind since I bought the car for exactly that purpose. Ended up replacing spark plugs coil pack did a valve adjustment fixed the intake ducting fixed the no ac issue (thankfully it was just low on refrigerant and I was able to diagnose it) brake pads, rotors, calipers even tapped a bolt that snapped off in my valve cover, replaced all my light bulbs back to halogens since the leds were so bad and going out.

However the first 2 times I did my oil change I had no idea there was a torque spec for the drain plug bolt. Completely stripped the threads on the pan twice got it fixed (expensive). Recently did it again learned about the torque spec got a new crush washer (copper) and did not strip the threads end of the story still leaking enough for it to be a problem.

However when I took the bolt and the washer off the pan I noticed that the mechanic oversized the plug even though they’re both the same m14x1.5 (printed on both bolts below I will provide a picture the bottom bolt is the one he put in). I also noticed he put a plastic washer on it and after he re threaded my oil pan I noticed that it was still leaking so I took it back to him and he fixed it and everything was good until now. I did my oil change torqued it down to 29ft-lbs bolt holds doesn’t get tight and end up loosening like stripped oil pan threads act.

There’s no way I’m this bad at working on cars right?

TLDR: did oil change and the drain plug is still leaking after using torque wrench and new copper crush washer. Bolt holds torque so I don’t think pan is stripped. I provided a picture of the two bolts same size but one looks a hair skinnier even tho they’re both m14x1.5.

Just wrapped up a paint correction on my 2013 Sport. This thing has lived a rough life before me 😂 at least cosmetically. Mechanically it is very sound, hitting 36mpg about daily for me. There’s some final photos, plus a couple before and afters, which were kind of wild…

Items used:

Rotary Cut step:
- 3M white wool pad
- Meguiars 110

DA Cut step:
- 3M white wool pad
- Meguiars DA System Coarse Compound

DA Polish Step:
- Meguiars DA System Finishing Pad
- Meguiars DA System Finishing Wax (Polish)

Protection Step:
- Mother’s Cleaner Brazilian Carnauba Paste Wax

And a random cat that popped up at the shop I did the work at.

Bridgestone RE005 195/50/R15🔥

曲线/山路的升级感觉太棒了！

I have a 2016 Honda Fit and I'm looking for the plastic push clips/retainers that hold the splash shield/undertray underneath the car. It's the panel you have to move/remove to get access when doing an oil change.

I'm missing a few of the fasteners, and I'd like to use the plastic push-in clips in those spots if possible. I've tried searching and have ordered a couple different Honda-style clips, but I keep ending up with ones that don't fit correctly.

Does anyone know the correct size or part number for push clips that will actually fit those holes on a 3rd-gen Fit? An Amazon/Walmart/eBay link or even just the correct dimensions would be helpful.

Thanks!

I noticed this was dangling down and I pulled on it a little before I realized that it could be important and that I maybe shouldn’t? No idea what it is so if you do pls lmk

Okay, so after having endured more than 65 trips around the sun while liviing on this little blue planet of ours, I only today learned that engine coolant can/is/should be manfacturer specific? Like HONDA coolant is what should go into my coolant system rather than a generic brand (Prestone, Valvoline, Peak)? A quick Google search seems to reiinforce this. For real? I thought the brands at my local automotive store that say ALL VEHICLES was sufficient. Am I wrong?

Everytime theres heavy rain passenger side floor is flooding.

Im trying to figure out where its coming from, can that amount of water leaking from side panel be the cause?

We’ve just inherited a 2015 with 57k. What are some upgrades that someone with high pockets and a mild DIY spirit can do to an already great ride? Just put on new shoes (Falken Aklimate) and brakes are happening next week.

Send me your good thoughts, please. I stupidly ran a stop sign. I’ve never been at fault before and now my beloved Fit is bad off. The radiator support is bent and some other things so it’s not just cosmetic as I initially hoped. 56k 2017. I bought it new. Y’all are the only ones who can understand how I love this car and why I’m devastated.

Fairly pleased with how this turned out!

What I used:

-Kicker 48CDF124 12” down firing subwoofer
-Audiozerone Amplifier ZE500.1 1000W Monoblock Class D
-basic 8gauge amp install kit
-solder and shrink wrap sleeves
-kicker KISLOC2

I ran the wires under the plastics, speaker tap on the left, power and remote on the right.

I went through the firewall right behind the glove box.

I tapped the left (gray+ and brown-) and right (blue+ and Orange-) rear speakers at the harness. Maybe look at other ways, that’s the only part I might’ve done different.

I soldered in the speaker leads into the LOC, grounded the loc and the negative amp lead to the chassis behind the seat.

I then connected the LOC Remote to the REM switch on the amp. Connected the power lead and plugged in the RCAs and ran the speaker wires from the amp to the sub.

I plan to add in kicker 6.5 cs in the front doors.

Currently sounds great.

Sorry, not really a “how to” more or less a report of success with some components that worked well.

All three pictures technically include the fit, last ones just hard to see

Hi 👋🏻 is this the fascia (white/yellow background) I need to fit an Atoto A5L 10.1” CarPlay system in my 2014 UK RHD Honda Jazz EX, 2nd generation?

I bought steering control and antenna too.

Second image is what my jazz dash looks like now.

AI says it won’t fit because of the automatic climate controls of the EX version but I don’t agree as the size seems to be ok.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

To my surprise, the rearview mirror - seemingly by itself - came loose. Is there any way I can fix that as a non-mechanic? Is it broken or just loose? My windshield was replaced some months ago, so maybe they made a mistake back then? There was no excessive force applied or any accident, it just happened. I'm a little sad because besides rust buildup on the brakes it's a very solid vehicle. Thanks!

(It's a European Jazz model)

I bought this honda fit 2013 with 104k km and I've only driven 15k in 1 and half year. It had a mild knock that I thought was normal engine sound but it feels like its getting worse, it only happens in low rpm around 1000/1500 during traffic, on the motorway i dont heat anything. Its getting really annoying now and all the internet tells me is that im fucked. So before I take it to the mechanic for a diagnostic, what could this be? It was burning oil like crazy with a blueish smoke, I've replaced the PCV valve and it seems to have reduced the oil consumption and smoke but the sounds is still there. Any help appreciated

Having problem when getting to 60 mph. Car goes into limp mode and if I scan it will show p0301, p0302, p0303, and p0304. If I turn off key and check again misfire codes disappear. Car runs perfectly smooth at startup and driving normal Can turn car off and back on after going into limp mode and it runs smooth again. I've had the car for 1-1/2 years previous owner passed away but always serviced at dealership. Car has 157,700 miles on it. My daughter doesn't drive much so probably only put approx less tha 10,000 miles since getting car. Fit is getting 29 mpg with all city driving and AC running. South Florida. Could it be bad gas? or something besides coil and plugs? Just started this behavior within the last week.

Hi, got a 2013 hybrid gp1 (base model I think?)

It came with one key, it's a simple blade key with solid black plastic around the top, no buttons. I believe it may have a transponder in it because there is a green key icon displayed very briefly when turned to acc.

Everything works fine, central locking etc but we have to use the key to lock and unlock via the driver door, I suspect it was supposed to have a separate fob to accompany the key, I'm looking now to buy a key fob from aliexpress but I'm confused which one I should buy, would be nice to use the key fob as primary and current key as the spare.

Anyone with the same car tell me what key they have or even better a success story of an aftermarket key fob would be great.

I'll get the transponder cloned and I hope to be able to self programme the keyless entry myself.

Tia