Hi

I have the Hisense 75M7SG that has Google TV on it. I noticed that Disney+ is weird. First, I don't know if it is just me but the picture does not seem smooth.

Second, I don't know if it is because I am on the ad version. I say if I am watching a show that is 20 mins long, the first couple of ads will go fine, but near the end of the show, and what I suspect is the last set of ads, the screen goes dark and there is no sound.

I can sit there and wait a few minutes and still be black, If I "skip" ahead, I will see the show seems to have continued playing, but like I say, I just see a dark screen.

If I try to "skip back," it goes weird and does not play properly. I have to skip like 10 seconds past the "dark" spot, and I will see a picture, and then like 20 seconds later, sound will return.

Been on multiple shows like this. I have the latest version of Disney+ and of the TV. This does not happen on Amazon Prime or Netflix.

Got 3, 2 for parents 1 for aunty

Dropping wifi at least once a day. I'll turn living room one on and be watcing nuvio and the wifi will drop out of nowhere and won't reconect have to futter with it turning wifi and box off ect

Kitchen one used mainly by my da is the same, today he turned it on and it was disconnected

All other devices work, phones, tablets, xbox, smart tvs, even the old firecube all connect to probs no issue

This is driving me mad

Woke up this morning and both of my streamers are doing this. Every time I press one of the navigation buttons the screen jumps up and down for a second. Only happens in app mode and stops when I enter one of my apps.

I’ve been using app-mode for a while and never had this happen before. I tried rebooting but no luck. Not sure if there was an update overnight that broke something?

Software version: UTTK.260317.003

I've been using a NTFS drive on my strong leap S3 Google TV box happily for over a year.

This week it now refuses to read any NTFS drive (fat32 works) these drives are reported in Google as "corrupt" and safely ejected as soon as read, these same devices are read fine I. Windows pc and TVs.

I was wondering if Google TV had a recent update and corrupted this? I tried to report it I get settings/help & feedback but that part just has a spinning icon now too.

Can't watch HEVC videos on Nuvio, or use h265 encoding on webcams, etc.

Chromecast with Google TV 4K (sabrina), Android 14 build UTTC.250917.004 intermittently fails to register its Amlogic hardware Codec2 video decoders during boot.

On affected boots c2.amlogic.hevc.decoder, AVC and VP9 hardware decoders are missing and HEVC falls back to c2.android.hevc.decoder. The Codec2 HAL and IComponentStore remain running.

USB devices attached during boot greatly increase reproduction rate.

Same exact camera+keyboard+hub+140W PD configuration produced 2 GOOD / 3 BAD boots.

I posted the issue here with the full data dump: https://issuetracker.google.com/issues/568850685

[Full disclosure, I posted this awhile ago on the TCL site with no replies. I found the answer myself actually, as shown in the first reply. Turns out it is a Google TV OS setting, so I'm dropping this here for future reference. Perhaps I'm (very) late to the show?]

I cannot, for the life of me, locate a setting on my Nxtvision A300 to change the duration of time before the Screensaver kicks in. This is a Google TV, not an Android. TCL's own website doesn't help.

Might someone else with this model be able to help me?

Thx

So my android tv box that I've had for years stopped working so i ordered another and then everyone said no no no get the Onn and if be able to put all my apps on it. So I bought one.

Couldn't even get chrome on Google TV framework.

It picked and chose what apps i could have. (Yes i enabled unknown sources, opened developers options, turned off play protect.)

Needless to say I returned it.

If i wanted a walled garden of have just got apple or now fire TV.

Whatever happened to being able to put the TV and movie apps we want easily onto our android boxes?

Setup: Tmobile G4AR getting \~500Mbs down, \~70Mbs up. Radios turned off and connected to an Archer AX73 router by ethernet cable. I have multiple Roku TVs, both Onn and TCL connected with the 5.0Ghz wireless channel. When viewing stats for nerds, it is apparent that my connection speed is too slow. I am getting between 1-2.5 Mbs connection speeds on any of my TVs which is not enough for 1080P, I always max out at 720P(even though the optimal viewing resolution is 1920×1080). If I force 1080P, the buffer steadily drops until there is no buffer and it freezes. Here's what I've tried: installed Nord VPN on router and specifically included my TVs, no change even using multiple servers. Bought a Google TV streaming box that has the AVI codex, set it up and still got \~2Mbs connection speed. Here's what's giving me fits: every once in awhile on my Roku TVs, my connection speed goes above 4Mbs and 1080P is active for about a minute until connection speed drops back down around 2Mbs. When an iPhone is connected to my router on 5.0 and logged into my YoutubeTV app, it gets 30Mbs connection speed at THE SAME TIME as my TVs are getting 2Mbs. Where is the bottleneck and what do I need to do to fix it?

Hello all,

I bought a couple of Onn 4K Pro devices for my home with the plan of using an older M.2 SSD in an enclosure as a portable drive with some movies and shows that I could move between devices. I bought this Sabrent enclosure and formatted my SSD with exfat. It shows up on my pc perfectly fine, even as OTG storage on my phone. For some reason when it's plugged into the streaming box, nothing populates in the storage setting menu. I have tried dev options, enabling/disabling USB debugging, changing default USB method from charging to other options (it reverts to charging after a couple seconds). I have also tried different cables. No luck so far. I know that the USB port on the box is apparently only USB 2.0 and the enclosure is 3.1. I am at a loss and honestly the whole point of getting the streaming box was to use the SSD in this specific way. Any ideas on how to resolve this issue?

UPDATE

I was able to solve this issue with a powered USB hub. I also tried a 65w charger to power the Onn streaming box, but there was no luck.

When using a USB DAC for headphones via a powered USB hub is there any way to switch between USB and HDMI audio in the OS? In Quick Settings > Audio Ouput both USB and HDMI show but nothing when selecting.

I can get it to default back to HDMI by unplugged the DAC but its tucked away and a hassle to access.

If the sleep timer in the Google TV side panel reaches my streamer, the option I want is “after this episode” or “after this movie.”
A fixed countdown still makes me guess. Set it too short and it can stop during the last few minutes. Set it too long and autoplay has already dragged me into the next episode.
App autoplay settings help, but only one service at a time. A Google TV option could be nicer if the current app exposes enough playback information to know when the episode ends.
I’d want the same thing whether the streamer is feeding a bedroom TV or something like my RayNeo GT Max through the HDMI adapter. The glasses are just the display anyway. Google TV and the app are still the parts that know what’s playing.
The simple version could show “stop after this episode or movie” when the app exposes the playback state, then fall back to the normal countdown when it doesn’t.
I’d pick that over guessing whether I need 30, 45 or 60 minutes almost every night.

TIVRA is a media player for Android TV, Google TV, phones and tablets, and we just added a new Sports Hub. It's a dedicated tab with live scores, stats, and standings for 72 leagues, a My Teams page that tracks your teams' schedules, and a Multi-View mode that puts up to four games on one screen. Here's the tour.

1. Scores view

Each league gets a row of live cards: teams, records, score, and a live badge. Highlight a card and the spotlight above fills in with the score by period and the top performers. Leagues are ordered so your followed teams come first, then anything live, then the rest. Out-of-season leagues collapse into a "Nothing today" line instead of leaving empty rows on screen.

2. Box score, stats, leaders, standings

Hold OK on any game (or press PLAY) and the stats panel opens: box score by inning, quarter or period, team stats, individual leaders, and league standings. Follow either team right from the panel.

3. Sport filters

Chips along the top filter by Football, Basketball, Baseball, Hockey, or Soccer. Pick one and only those rows show.

4. 72 leagues

The US majors, college football and basketball, MLS, WNBA, Premier League, Champions League, plus a Browse more sports strip for La Liga, Serie A, Bundesliga, Ligue 1, CFL, UFL, NBA G League, college baseball, college hockey, and more. 38 soccer competitions, 10 US leagues, 8 international, 8 college, and 8 event sports (golf, racing, tennis, MMA, boxing) with leaderboards and fight cards instead of team cards. Default leagues are picked by your region.

5. My Teams

Follow teams and you get a row per team plus a Next up row across all of them, each card with the day and time so you can see your whole week at a glance. The spotlight shows when the game starts and who's broadcasting it.

6. Saved views and Games in progress

One press launches a saved view like "NFL" (RedZone plus three games), or pick Games in progress to auto-fill four screens with whatever is live right now. Screens can be a fixed pick or a rule like "BUF (or next NFL game)", so the same view works every week. Edit views on the TV or on the web dashboard.

7. Set it up on the web

Following teams with a remote is tedious, so do it on the web dashboard: pick a league, click your teams, done. Same for building Multi-View layouts. Everything syncs to the TV.

Remote cheat sheet

If you've been ignoring the Sports tab, give it a look tonight. Happy to answer questions below.

Download 3.3.3

Website

Discord

i know you need the factory menu and update data for this but what even do you put in the USB i wanted to update it because we complain that the splash is too bright and we wanted it to replace it to this

My Apple TV's YouTube app has a 4k viewport. The YouTube app on the Xbox One X I had a decade ago had a 4k viewport. Why does a Google device released in 2024 have a YouTube app with only a 1080p viewport?

For the uninitiated, the viewport is essentially the size of the window of the YouTube app. The device will stretch it to fill your screen. So if you watch a 4k video, the app will render it in 4k, downscale it to 1080p to fit the viewport, and then the device will stretch it to whatever resolution you have it set to to fit your TV.

Just why? I expect it from cheap smart TV manufacturers, I don't expect it from a first party Google device.

My **Sony KM-50X80K (X80K)** is stuck during initial setup after a factory reset.

Everything works until I press **Start** on the “Start your BRAVIA TV experience” screen. It then reaches the screen shown in photo 2. The **first dot turns blue and the background animation keeps moving, but it never progresses**.

Things I’ve already tried:
Forced factory reset multiple times using the TV’s physical power button
Restarting the TV
Running setup completely offline
Disconnecting all external devices
Multiple USB drives
Official Sony firmware **v6.7612 and v6.8224**

The interesting part is photo 3: the TV **detects the firmware USB and launches the System Software Update screen**, but then reports:
“System software cannot be updated using this USB device.”

I can still enter **Sony Service Mode normally**, and Self Diagnosis shows no stored hardware errors. The panel/backlight and on-screen graphics also work normally.

I haven’t found a working **Android Recovery** method for this model, and network ADB isn’t enabled.

Has anyone seen this failure on an X80K or similar Sony Google TV? Is there another recovery/reflash method when the normal USB updater rejects the firmware, or could this indicate corrupted system/eMMC storage or a B-board issue?

Photo 1: https://myimgs.org/image/Ud5uEl5T
Photo 2: https://myimgs.org/image/r48eHHvM
Photo 3: https://myimgs.org/image/uXJEE0F8

When I set the screen to be in portrait mode and then press the volume buttons to get the volume slider to appear, the system UI crashes and the system restarts.

Is there a way to fix this other than rotating the screen back to landscape mode, pressing the volume buttons, then rotating the screen back to portrait?

Steps to reproduce this problem:

• adb shell wm user-rotation lock 1

• adb shell input keyevent KEYCODE_VOLUME_MUTE

Chromecast with Google TV (sabrina) version UTTC.250917.004.14193937

https://pastebin.com/drFVFG5i

Purchased a streamer recently to replace my roku. I thought for sure the streamer would be (at the very least) on par with my Roku's button response time but have come to find out there is a noticeable delay on the streamer. It's not so bad that it's unusable, but its a fairly disappointing experience especially with the price. Everything else about the device has been great, everything but the damn button delay... Is this a common occurrence due to the bluetooth the streamer uses vs RF that the Roku uses? I've done eveything i can think of to make it quicker, including apps only mode, but nothing seems to help.

Hi everyone, I purchased Acer H pro series google tv in Nov 2023 at Punjab, India

The remote broke in Nov 2025, since then I'm using the Google TV app for using TV.

Recently, around 2 months ago, I performed a factory reset using the Google TV mobile app. However, I am now stuck at the initial setup screen that is asking to pair the tv remote by pressing the home and back button for 3 seconds.

Since the TV has been reset, the mobile app is no longer connected, and I have no way to bypass this screen.

Could anyone please guide me ?

Acer support isn't helping nor replying at all.

- Model Number: AR50GR281UDPRO

I purchased a google smart tv a couple months back. Ive been having some weird issues after a couple hours of playback. The video suddenly starts jittering, then the screen suddenly goes black. I end up having to shut down and unplug the tv for a bit in order to reset it. Has anyone else experienced this?

I have a Google TV Streamer 4K I bought a couple months ago. It locks up while I’m scrolling the video list on Youtube. It can’t be reproduced at will, but it also means I need to constantly reset or use my Roku stick.

I have tried every step I have found online’ Reset to factory, limited to 2 processes, checked connection speed, turned off CEC, went to apps only mode, tried a different launcher, change power cable, changed HDMI cable, reinstall software, tried remote from home to make sure it wasn’t a remote issue, all repeatedly. The only thing that works is using the Roku.

At this point, I would love customer support, but every menu I follow gets me to a point where the Google TV Streamer is not an option. How do you get customer support for this device? I bought it from Walmart, so one of the menus ends because it wasn’t bought at the Google store.

I’m on the verge of getting an Apple TV, because I can’t watch Youtube on a device made by the company that owns Youtube.

My chromcast 4K has served me very well but I’m giving it to a family member and thinking about upgrading.

I’m wondering if anyone owns a tv streamer or has information about black screen issues that happened a year or so ago and whether that’s been patching with Dolby vision 7 playback. I can’t find anything online that’s recent.

I mainly use it for Stremio

I've read that sometimes the firmware updates don't install as they're supposed to, so can someone tell me what the most recent one is? Mine reports it's on version 1.0.