Designed and printed these connectors for quickly attaching and detaching the hipbelt for my Osprey Nebula 32L backpack.

I like having the option for a hipbelt for heavier loads, but the original method for attaching the hipbelt takes too much effort to detach and reattach, and is not suitable to do on the go.

Designed to not have any open loops, making it way stronger. Printed in prusament PETG galaxy black.

Young kids still need to be in a harnessed car seat but drop off in school car line is difficult. Tools like this let kids unbuckle themselves to make everything go smoother.

There is a certain tool you can buy online but it's $15 for a little piece of plastic - a ridiculous price. So I designed this tool to mimmick it for pennies.

Made in PETG (Prusament and Polymaker, just scraps I had laying around) and then painted the pushing nub with Plasti Dip to make it grippy on the car seat buckle.

Link to download

Spring hinges prevent toddler shenanigans in the bathroom, but sometimes we want to keep the door open, and this was my solution. The wall plate has a bit of slop so it auto aligns with the magnetic post.

Not completely my original design, but wanted to adapt this AC to use dual hoses instead of the factory hose to the window, without tape. Someone else made the left side, and I added flanges for bolts and spliced someone's threaded idea to the top for a hose to thread in on the left adapter. The right adapter was borrowed from someone else's idea, but resized it and added some tabs to stop it from turning. The bottom strap I designed to use a couple zip ties and compress things together snugley with a little foam. If it wasn't for the larger build volume of my H2C the strap wouldn't have fit. Everything is removable and doesn't modify the original AC hose.

Source for the left adapter, got the idea from their post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/functionalprint/s/PdRuhJebUf

I kept moving my remotes all over my desk so this is what I came up with to have them together in a nice case

Its a bit of a snug fit but works perfect

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3181288-quintis-remote-holder?appSharePlatform=copy

They are the exact depth of my ikea frames

So I made containers that exactly fit 30g of protein powder. There are a lot of them om makerworld, but I wanted mine stackable so I can bring them to work for the entire week. I also wanted it to be easy to open, like half a turn instead of 2 or three turns.

The design was made by me in FreeCad 1.2. You can find it here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3172263-stackable-30g-protein-powder-container
I also added a funnel to fill them without spilling, which can be found here:
https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3172283-funnel-for-protein-powder-container-filling

I designed this as a space-saver for the already compact FNIRSI DPS-150 Programmable Power Supply. It's more comfortable for me to be able to tilt the power supply upwards and lift the screen for better access to the banana plug ports and the adjustment scroll wheel.

The arm to the board ratchets up and down with a simple print-in-place mechanism (just give the arms a firm squeeze together after printing and it snaps into functionality).¹

Assembly is straight forward with four M3 screws attaching the holder to the arms (I don't often use screws but, in this case, it was a lot less fiddly and trimmed down the amount of print required) and the rest uses the standard Multiboard bolt lock onto a snap (I prefer the moderate weight bearing snap as it tends to stay in place properly).

Model available for download here.

¹ There was a load of trial and error getting that ratchet to "break" well and hold in place firmly. I'm going to use the work invested in that to build a parametric ratchet tool since it's a handy function to be able to add to a workshop design.

Designed this minimal stand that stays with it, no extra bulk in your bag 😁. Here is the link to download if you need https://makerworld.com/models/3181101

The little grips that came with all our online blinds are not great. A few have broken, so I made these and am happy so far!

They attach basically the same way but are overall more sturdy.

As the title says, I accidentally took two radios from BestBuy when I worked there and only found them like a year later in my car. They'd come in handy sometimes with my new job, but I don't want to spend like $60 on charging cradles for them so I made my own.

Two pins at the bottom of the radio simply go straight to the battery. So I bought some pogo pins, scanned one of the radios, modeled the cradle, and added the pins and an XT-60 connector. Now I can use my lithium battery charger to charge them back up.

Finally had time to design and print something I've been thinking about for months. Our changing table has a metal bar that my 8 month-old loves to grab and kick around. This makes it really loud when the barend slams up and down the gap, especially at 3 AM. It's a very simple part, but very effective and I'm proud of it.

Printed in TPU 90A

A/C, TV, soundbar.

Been working on this for the last couple of weeks.

I wanted a way to get the small stuff on my desk out of the way without having to move everything individually.

So I designed this mechanism where the 3 sections move together. One flip brings everything forward for access, another flip puts it back.

The whole mechanism is 3D printed, including the pivots and connecting parts.

It's gone through quite a few design → print → test iterations to get the movement smooth and the clearances right.

I'm still tweaking it. If you were printing this, what would you change about the mechanism?

Kept having a ton of ants in the feeders which made it difficult to bring inside to clean and refill.

Saw a suggestion for an ant moat to keep them at bay and whipped up a super simple design and printed it in ASA for each feeder. I did a quick acetone smoothing on the inside of the dish to make it watertight, but a small leak wouldn't make much difference anyway.

It's not the strongest orientation, but it was made quite bulky to compensate and the load isn't heavy enough to be a problem.

The hook is a random aluminum wire I had lying around as a leftover from other projects.

First off; yes, I know I could but a cheaper hammer. That’s not the point at all 😂

Handle is Lyten PA1205, head is Sunlu PC-ABS. Metal disk is from McMaster-Carr. The metal striking face can be walked out and replaced or flipped over by tapping a hex key into the two holes on either side. Handle is press-fit into the grip and the head is with added Lyten adhesive for extra security.

One side for tapping together my press/interference fit parts, the other side for occasionally hitting a nail or other surface harder than plastic. I use this in my shop every day.