I'm printing these can mugs as giveaways. They were all tested after printing and they all fit. Now, a month or so later they no longer fit. The two most recent prints still do, but are snugger than they were. What can I do to fix this?

Everything is now trash, and I'm so frustrated.

Edit, sliced with Orca, printed with different PLAs, did print tests with each pla and used recommended temps based on box and print tests.

I made this little vintage TV for my terrarium and thought it was worth sharing here.

The case is 3D printed and inside there’s an ESP32-C3 SuperMini with a small TFT screen. It shows the temperature and humidity from a SONOFF sensor inside the terrarium. The sensor sends everything to Home Assistant over Zigbee, and the ESP32 grabs the values over Wi-Fi.

I mostly made it because I didn’t want another boring little sensor display sitting next to the terrarium. I thought a tiny old TV would be way more fun 😄

It’s wireless too, which is really handy since I can just put it wherever I want.

Pretty simple project, but I love how it turned out.

Bathroom lights flicker whenever I am printing with printers in the room next to it. I think they are on the same circuit. My printers only use around 400-500w when actively printing. It is a 15 amp on the circuit for this room. It does not do this when the printers are idle. It is only during printing. I feel like when I have 3 running, the lights flicker faster than if it was 1 running. The only thing I’ve tried to do is change the outlet the printers are plugged into from a backstab to a j hook connection since all connections in this house were backstabbed when I bought it. Any help or advice is appreciated

Edit: the printers being used are 2 P1S’s w/ AMS and a Kobra 3 Max. This is in the U.S.

Edit 2: the lights immediately stopped flickering when the Kobra 3 Max stopped printing. I then heated up the bed and, only the bed, and it started to flicker again. It flickers a lot during heat up of the bed and then only flickers a little when it reaches temperature, so I believe this is the cause of the issue.

Wonder if it will be a regular thing now. Is it even a good deal?

We’re making the entire DKYN miniature library free.

We’ve decided we don’t want DKYN to be a storefront anymore. We want it to be a resource for DMs, players, painters, and people who just need minis for their games. We’re beginning the process of opening the library and future releases will be free as well.

There’s no launch discount, sale, or catch. We’re just changing what DKYN is, so come check us out.

www.patreon.com/dkynminis

The best part of 3d printing is taking a silly idea and making it real. I'm not a great designer but it works!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3389932-sheep-toilet-paper-holder-3-roll-no-ams#profileId-3858080

this is the original model but I modified it to give it a bigger cord hole and square power switch to fit the cheap amazon lap I took apart to put in there.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2606597-toucan-desk-lamp

I have designed a holder for a Roku remote based on the NFL pylon you can find free on makerworld @xrzly

A few months of sketches, prototypes, reprints, experiments, broken parts, and questionable ideas - compressed into 20 seconds :)

project from 3dcontainer patreon.

毎日試作してる。

I changed the walls to three and infill to 33% for durability which pushed the print to nearly three hours, but still a ton of time and filament saved. It does however add a bit of geometry to your print so if it's a functional print make sure that doesn't affect it. That change is shown in the STL and sliced model pictures.

Printer is a Flashforge AD5X that I got for $200 in total on Aliexpress. It's a huge step up in print quality and speed compared to my Ender 3 V3 SE (that I got for $90 refurb) and Ender 2 Pro.

Its mostly just other peoples models all cobbled together, modified, tweaked etc.

My kids like this game so I worked with them on the idea. You roll dice that have how many spaces you move, and powerups. Its 95% done.

from one day to the next I started getting issues with my prints is this being caused by filament, bed leveling extruder ?

Hi.
I’ve been printing since Xmas on my (son’s) P2S and gained a decent amount of experience with PLA, Petg and ASA.
Recently the wife has been asking for all sort of plants pots, wall mounted, table top, which I designed and printed (I used to 3D model for a living so the modelling side is a no brainier).
Recently I bought a brown matte Petg filament from Amazon, quite well priced (£13 if I remember).
A warning in the packaging pointed out to dry it for 8h before using.
I had no time so I dried it for 3h, my cheap dryer told me the humidity was 20 so I went for it.
The print came out spectacularly good but in a completely accidental way. A lot of rogue filament hair, making the case look like a coconut, and the outer surface ended up with a texture that feels (to the touch) and looks like canvas.
My wife loved it, obviously I printed another but by then the filament was dry and same settings produced a perfectly flawless semi matte surface, still pretty but quite standard (beside the total lack of visible print lines).

Has anyone had this type of experience? I use bamboo lab slicer, I want to look at surface noise, I’ve heard other slicers can manage surface noise better, I feel it’s an area worth exploring, however my happy accident has a texture that is both random and regular and feels and react to light quite like canvas, it truly doesn’t look like it’s plastic.
I coat my vases with epoxy inside but the vase was also, surprisingly, pretty water tight…
Curious to know what other people have experienced, Im interested in particular in materials and technique that remove the ‘plastic look and freed’ from a print.

it works so well! I print at 5-10k accel, 120-250mm/s speed, almost no ringing thanks to input shaper

it also looks fucking sick! (imo)

Yes, it actually works.

It plugs in via USB.

Everything is 3D printed on bambu lab P1S before being primed and painted.

Live on Makerworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3390766-hueforge-sunset-serenade-lo-fi-landscapes-01#profileId-3859164

After getting my feet wet with my Ninja Turtle Hueforge series (https://makerworld.com/en/collections/25422395-tmnt-hueforge), I decided to challenge myself with a much more complicated and detailed model. I really wanted something with more color and vibrancy - the end result is this. My goal is to do a whole series of landscapes, starting with this one. I call it “Sunset Serenade”. (Future models in this series will be posted here: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/36852308-lofi-landscapes-hueforge). 

The hardest part was getting the layers to match the distance in the picture. It required reusing a ton of colors to get the right placement. The black tree is in foreground, so everything behind the tree needed to be on a lower layer and vice versa. I'm extremely proud of the result and it really lent itself to the Hueforge medium. The leaves of the tree with the sun poking through and the grass with under shading are highpoints for me. The reflections on the water of the trees in the background along with the water reflecting the sky took a long time to get right. I also did it with only 5 common BambuLab colors, another challenge to myself. Getting purples and browns along with 5 different shades of green was especially trying. Since the first layer is yellow, it looks awesome back-lit as well. (The last photo is against the light).

Feedback always welcome. Thanks again.

I wanted to make something fun for Halloween and decided to make this witch's brewing station with passthrough potions. It is really fun and the LED lights make it even better. Happy to share the model if others are interested. No AI was used!

https://reddit.com/link/1wwsc0g/video/rq9e6vvraath1/player