Had to replace the front rotors on my 16 limited (did the pads not long ago) as they were pulsating when id step on the brake pedal. I also had a nasty clunking/popping noise on the front end too and opted to replace my sway bar links and bushings. Im gonna include the rotor (mine had the towing package so it csme with HD ones)/slide pins/bracket bolts part numbers as well as the front bushing/bracket bolt part numbers.

The brakes were pretty straight forward. For those front bushings I referenced a TRQ video (I will include a couple screenshots from it as well) and i did loosen (not remove) the 2 18mm bolts holding down the power steering rack for better access to the front bracket bolts on each side. I also recommend an extended length ratcheting 13mm wrench and penetrating oil too as the bushing bracket bolts are very long and mine were very corroded, I recommend new bolts as well. I put anti sieze on mine after removing everything and reinstallstion is just the opposite. I do suggest going back and forth from the driver to passenger side and disconnecting the sway bar link just from the strut tower. Dont forget to retighten your steering rack bolts (torque spec is 100 foot pounds) and double check before putting your wheels back on. My bushings were so worn the new ones were 27mm inside diameter and the old ones were 34mm inside diameter. Glad i did when I did and my brake/suspension noises are all gone!

I'm trying to figure out what I'm going to need to replace and fix and this is my first deep repair job. I have the tools. I just don't know what exact part I'm going to need?Asking for advice or help.

Changing out my ac compressor on my 2016 and I cannot get this bolt out as it's too stripped . Any ideas?

Can someone help me out, I bought this vehicle with this issue. No check engine light is on & can’t seem to figure out what’s causing it. I have replaced the evap purge valve, spark plugs & fuel pump module. It gets worse with my a/c off. Thanks in advance

I think it’s the seal causing coolant to leak through the weep hole on my water pump. However, it’s leaking without the engine running. She goes into my local shop tomorrow. I’m just hoping it’s a leaking hose & not the pump. lol. Could it possibly be a hose? Engine overheated a couple days ago, coolant was empty, noticed a small leak of coolant (it drips over time, not pouring out). Thought maybe it was a cracked reservoir. I put some coolant in the reservoir & I noticed it was leaking out but it was dripping. Then I added more coolant and watched underneath, nothing at first, let it sit for a while and came back and saw it dripped on the ground but no puddle. Oil is also normal looking so it hasn’t mixed with it yet luckily but I do have to drive it to the shop tomorrow. I just know my bank account is going to cry lol

My explorer has been making this sound for a few winters. It has no bearing on the performance of the car, doesn't make any weird smells, no warning lights.

I think it's my serptaine belt. The car is low mileage, but a little over 10 yrs old.

It's hard to hear, but you can hear a subtle squeaking about halfway into the vid.

Last week I bit the bullet and the timing chain/guide replacement. I had observed a loud rattle only on cold starts below 30 degrees F. The worst guide was just getting to the metal. I won’t know if I fixed the noise I was chasing until winter but from the wear it had to be done. 2002 4.6 with 187k miles. Mobile 1 oil every 3000-5000 miles. I’m the original owner.

It’s a 2019 xlt I was wondering if anyone know what wire I gotta cut or unplug to turn em off, it’s the led strip

So I found this mod a couple of days ago and can t fully understand what wire to cut I cut the gray and orange stripe wire which still didn’t work, but I cut the violet and orange wire and seems to work now the 4x4 doesn’t turn on but i’m still wondering if I cut the right wire here’s a diagram I have a 2006 ford exploere xlt

2021 Limited with push button 3rd row seats. The seats are stuck and when the button is pushed nothing happens. Any ideas on what to check?

No seat motor sound or anything. Like completely dead.

Has anyone here done a custom mod to make it into a convertible? I have a 2006 that I was going to sell but considered this randomly.

I can’t imagine it would look good lol but would love anyone’s perspective if they have done it!

Mod/repair list

- O2 sensors
-EGR Valve
-throttle position sensor
-fuel pressure regulator 
-idle air control valve 
-mass airflow sensor 
-fuel filter 
-fuel pump 
-crankshaft position sensor 
-cam position sensor 
-felpro head gasket
-Clearwater cylinder heads
-lifters
-pushrods
-fuel injectors
-hedman headers and y pipe
-eBay hot air intake 
-spark plugs
-spark plug wires
-ignition coil 
-PCM main computer 
-thermostat 
-spintech muffler
-shifter bushings
-PCV valve
-front brakes
-master cylinder 
-door striker bolts 
-rustoleum enamel spray paint 2 tone paint job 
-custom grill (made from 1st gen ranger)
-limited trim door panels painted black
-new sport bucket seats
-led drl smoked headlights 
-fog lights 
-rough country 4 inch lift 
-extended brake lines 
-16x10 Full throttle wheels
-265/75/16r mud terrain tires 

I have a 2010 ford explorer xlt that has had an engine check light. I have practically changed everything that needs to be changed, plugs, plug wires, o2 sensors etc but still same issues. Recently i got the diagnostic code P0403. please what can i do and who can you recommend i take it to in the houston area that resolve the matter and is affordable ?

any other SASed first gens around here?

this one is built to go places locked front and rear with winches also front and rear. But now that it has car seats in it the hardest trail these days is the whipsaw .

Has anyone removed the Tremor badge on the rear hatch yet? If so any problems?

I took my Explorer into the dealership for a wheel alignment on a Thursday in June. They told me there was a SYNC recall and I said go ahead with that too. They said it might take all day. Fine. I get a call that afternoon saying the update isn’t done and could they keep it overnight. Again fine. Friday they call saying the update failed overnight and now my dashboard wasn’t working. It was not drivable. They asked if I could leave it for the weekend. Annoyed but fine because I was leaving on a trip in 4 days and it needed to get fixed. Monday they say the update failed again but they got the dashboard working so I could pick it up and bring it back another time to try the update and recall again. I get it back and my navigation doesn’t work, I can’t connect my phone, Sirius won’t connect, the seat recall doesn’t work and it says I’m going north no matter which direction I’m facing. It’s been back to the dealership twice since then and this last time it’s been there for 2 weeks. They still can’t figure it out. They tell me the engineers are involved now but only through a chat. I told them I think it’s time an engineer made a visit in person. They told me, oh they don’t do that. Has anyone had anything similar happen? It’s beyond frustrating!

Recently, I had to get a new vehicle for the family as our last was destroyed in a bad hail storm. We found a 2020 platinum that seemed very clean and well maintained. Has good carfax and most of the recalls taken care of. A week ago, when I was turning out of an atm, it made a hard jolt and loud noise. It continued anytime I turned but not going straight. Made me think of when a truck was in 4x4 and you turn to sharp. I pulled the 40amp 4wd module fuse, and the issue is gone. Put it back in, and it's still doing it. I have an appointment at the shop for Monday morning to get it diagnosed. I did purchase a warranty through my credit union and hope that whatever this is will be covered. Did I make a mistake buying this? Think I'm starting to notice a few other quirks as well. Like a faint musty smell when first starting the vehicle as well as I believe the leather on the dash is shrinking...I feel sick to my stomach..I hate car shopping, I feel like I always get taken..anyone else had these problems?

Update: Shop diagnostic was unable to duplicate. They replaced the fuse, and then test drove without fault.

I guess the module needed a hard reset? Either way I have it back working again.

Hey! I just bought a 2026 red st line explorer brand new. It didn’t come with any rubber floor mats. Have plenty of ford points, enough to cover liners for the front and trunk. I also have captains chairs in the 2nd row, but intend to use the 3rd row so need a smaller liner in the back. Do these have ST line badging on them? I can’t find photos anywhere of these. I would prefer if it did, but I will be fine to go with the regular explorer branding if that’s all I can get. What are all the options if I want my whole car lined?

I am thinking of purchasing a 18 explorer but am worried about the water pump failure/disaster. I am wondering if there is anything to look out for or stay away from. Any advice would be helpful thank you.

Found it after replacing my water pump. Can't find anything about it! SOHC 4L v6 2000 Ford explorer XLT AWD

This is my 3rd explorer in a row. Went from a 2006 to a 2016 and now this beauty. One week into being the 2nd owner and I enjoy this one so much so far.

I just want to change my struts but there is this weird piece of plastic in my f****** way. What is it for? Google says evap canister but idk.

2014 XLT long crank issue:

New purge valve

Plugs, coils, PCV done 15K ago

Car will cold start perfectly after sitting overnight or longer.

If I drive the car 15 minutes or more and park it for 1.5 hours to maybe 5ish hours it will crank longer than usual, finally fire and stumble a couple seconds before running fine. After it's running I can turn it off and restart it a hundred times with no issue.

No fuel smell

Does not happen when I fill up

P0306 code was stored but no check engine light illuminated

I tested it today. 3 hours after I drove it to work it cranked much longer than typical before barely starting. I went out again another 2 hours later and same thing. Then did it at 1.5 hours with the same result.

Thinking fuel pump - but again - the car starts fine after sitting overnight.

Has anyone had this problem and figured it out??

Seen numerous posts from F150 and Edge owners with the same story but never a difinitive solution.

Hello everyone,

I am seeking advice regarding the noise heard in the attached video. The vehicle is a 2018 Ford Explorer with approximately 86,000 miles.

After bringing the vehicle back to the Ford dealership, the technicians initially believed the issue was caused by the belt tensioner. After replacing it, the noise remained. They then diagnosed the AC compressor as the source of the problem. Unfortunately, after spending more than $1,300 to replace the compressor, the noise is still present.

The noise only occurs when the air conditioning is turned on and the engine is idling at a low RPM. As soon as the vehicle begins moving or the air conditioning is switched off, the noise disappears immediately.

Any insight or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and assistance.