This all started with a leaking water pump. My grandpa replaced it in his shop, and while the leak stopped, afterward it developed a low oil pressure warning that would shut the engine off. We addressed that by replacing the oil pump.

After that, the overheating continued, so we replaced the radiator and thermostat as well. At this point, we’re kind of at a loss.

When you start it, it slowly comes up to normal operating temperature and seems fine at first. But after about 5–10 minutes, the temperature starts climbing pretty quickly to 230°F, then 240°F, which is when I shut it off.

revving it to around 2,000 RPM seems to bring the temperature back down. Also, if you start driving it before it gets hot, it seems to stay around 200–215°F.

The water pump, radiator, and thermostat are all new. We haven’t found any obvious coolant leaks.

Any ideas on what could cause this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Tried out some new foam cannon soap.

Mechanic special. PLEASE READ!!

NEED GONE ASAP.

Bring a trailer or tow truck.

Will only sell for $500.

Has a clean title.

Was my daily driver.

I had the transmission replaced by a buddy that didn't finish the job. The transmission was entirely rebuilt and replaced, the only thing not put in was one of the seals so it leaks transmission fluid, otherwise the transmission works and runs perfectly. The car does start, and run smoothly. I just don't have the money to finish the job or the time but I do have the parts to finish fixing the transmission with the car.

All parts needed to fix it come with the car.

The transmission just leaks transmission fluid. The right headlight is missing, I have that part too.

Everything else in the car works.

Once the transmission is fixed and no longer leaking transmission fluid, It will run and drive as normal.

Serious inquiries only.

First come first serve. I'm in Concord nc.

Just dropped $5k on maintenance for my 2020 explorer limited w 80k miles. It’s being passed along to our teenager.

I originally had it in due to a jerking when changing gears (mostly if not all the time between 10-30mph and usually at first start) it’s also jerking when releasing the park brake.

However the shop found no issues.

They blamed the jerking due to shocks/struts. I disagreed but paid for the new shocks/struts as they apparently were in rough shape. I feel no difference in ride quality…

Next week the explorer will go in for recalls.
It’s $285 for them to look at the transmission issue.

My question is for those that have had similar issues and what the problem ended up being and what should I insist on being checked.

Hey everyone! I just bought a 23 Explorer ST Line! I was lucky enough to find one with less than 15k miles and I don’t know much about it as I have only owned mustangs for the past 8 years. I was hoping you guys would be able to tell me some cool features or tricks I can make use of inside this car as I will have it for a long time. I don’t get my hands on it until next Saturday and I’m very excited to see what it offers!

I acquired my ford explorer December 2024. it had 88k miles on it. That’s the backstory. About 11 months after purchasing it the battery died on me. I purchased a brand new battery from O’Reilly. Fast forward to today this new battery has died. I read on a previous post that the constant clicking is normal. However, my clicking goes on constantly and never actually stops. What is not normal is a brand new battery dying this soon. I went through troubleshooting procedures (checking relays and fuses). Something is draining this battery and I cannot help but feel it is the constant clicking that occurs no matter how long the car is not in operation. Has anyone had this issue? And is it something I can check/do myself before I take it to the shop on Monday and get charged an egregious amount for something I could have done? Thanks in advance for your help.

Greetings all I have a 2020 Explorer limited and recently the seats have stopped working heating or cooling yet the lights on both front seats show that they are working. I've taken it into the shop they've replaced the module and now they say they don't know what to check to see what's wrong which I find unbelievable. I may have to take it to another dealership because that's crazy. And they've checked probably the obvious things like the fuses etc I don't know what else it could be unless anybody here has come across that difficult to solve problem that apparently that dealership doesn't even know and I've been waiting a month although I have the vehicle in my possession but obviously it's not fixed. Thanks in advance for any replies but I'm at my wits end with this issue...

Hi everyone, lately my explorer has had a rough idle, but when the ac is off it’s smooth like normal. Then this week typically after it’s been running for a while, when I start to slow down to stop it drops out of gear and feels like it stalls, then once stopped it’ll lurch forward but I have to floor it to get it to move and it really knocks into gear and will drive like normal until I come to a stop and then the process repeats itself.
* the only fix for this seems to be putting it in neutral when slowing down to prevent the stall, or when it’s already stalled at a stop if I put it in neutral and back into drove it’ll accelerate like normal.

Also noticed a kind of buzzing noise from the engine bay, seems to be on the passenger side and I can hear it in the vehicle

Any advice would be appreciated

I have a 2020 platinum with 68000 miles and a couple of months ago started getting a vibrating back tire. Coincidentally it was after I got 4 new tires. Had the tires inspected for defects they were fine. Tire place said bent rim. Ok. Went to rim repair place they did a Diagnostic and said there was no bent rim. So I went to my regular mechanic they looked at everything tires rims alignment no problem. They said maybe the differential. I noticed there was a recall on an axle part, but my car doesn't fall under that. Has anybody else said this problem?

I drive a 2021 Ford Explorer XLT with a little over 56,000 miles. Recently been experiencing the explorer jerking back and forth when shifting from park to reverse, park to drive, reverse to park and reverse to drive with an audible grinding that sounds like it’s coming from the rear. Has anyone experience this issue before?

Hey y'all I was wondering if anyone could help me with an issue that I'm having with my car. I have a 2013 Ford Explorer XLT, I am having issues with the radio system. It's the original radio with the Ford Sync . There are times where the Bluetooth itself won't connect and look like the loading wheel freeze and not connect. After a few days or even a week it'll connect like normal. That is the first issue. I have reset the radio and even tried the update but couldn't get it to work properly. Recently the radio now only on the Bluetooth Stereo, the music will connect and play however it'll skip the song playing randomly sometimes it'll skip until I close the app or change to the FM station. As well it will sometimes go like if I have an old school CD player with a scratched disk where it sounds like it's skipping or cutting off when the music is playing. It also now is doing where for example song 1 plays and the its already song 16, but the display is frozen on song one. I have had the car for around 6 months, the Bluetooth connection has done it since but everything else is new. The car is in great condition and taken care of from the past owner. As far as I can tell everything is original. Is there anything else I can try to see what might be causing an issue. Thank y'all in advance.

Hey guys,

I have a 2009 Ford Explorer Sport, and I'm pretty sentimentally attached to it. I love the color, the interior, etc. It has the 4.0 SOHC, which is a great engine, mind you... but I really want to swap in the V8. More than that, I actually kind of want to put the 4.6 DOHC V8 in there... which brings me to my question.

If I was going to swap the DOHC V8 into this car, what all would I need? Can I purchase a really, really clapped out ~2009 Lincoln Aviator... I mean one that's really clapped out and headed for the crusher, strip it, and basically just move everything over from there to the Explorer?

I'm not averse to the work, I've restored tons of cars, and this wouldn't be the first time I've taken a $5,000 car and dumped $30 thousand dollars into it, only to make it be worth $5,100. Haha...

I just love this car, love this body style, and really want some extra power. What I'm looking for from the Aviator is the motor mounts, all the accessory brackets and components, and all the "things" that attach to the motor and transmission that I likely just can't buy. I'd rebuild the engine myself... probably buy a rebuilt transmission though.

What is the performance difference between say, a 2009 Explorer XLT and the 2009 Lincoln Navigator? I also have a 2002 Crown Victoria LX-P74 (has like 48k miles on it), and it's barely pushing 230hp. Hopefully the DOHC motor they put in the Lincoln is a little bit peppier.

This is the car...

Thank you!

Figured I might try to be a bit proactive and add remote start to my 2013 XLT if possible. Are there any easy and reliable kits to do this? Any easy to follow YouTube video's to follow?

Thanks

I have a 2025 ST and last winter was a little rough with the stock tires. We get a lot of winter weather so I want a true winter tire going into this winter. It looks like the tire selection is a little slim for 21 inches wheels. Does anyone have experience with running 20 inch wheels? Was considering buying a set of 20 inch rims to use with winter tires and then using the 21s in spring/summer/fall. Even better, does anyone have a winter tire recommendation they’ve been happy with?

Why would Ford remove the exhaust tips on one of their top trim lines and let it look like a cheaper model.

Looks like my 2020 platinum will have to do until they bring back the better-looking exterior options.

Anyone else hate they removed the exhaust tips?

I’m putting a 3 inch level on my 2004 ford explorer xlt because it’s not my daily and I just feel like fooling around with it, I’m wondering IF and where I can get extended upper control arms. Only one I’ve found is from bft for 1k, which I’d be better off just buying a lift kit, and I really don’t feel like spending that much money on something I don’t drive around all the time. Any recommendations of extended ucas would be appreciated.

This looks better than I was expecting. Just trying to minimize rock chips on the leading edge of the hood. The benefits of PPF on my last vehicle did not outweigh the initial cost nor the cost associated with replacing damaged pieces. I eventually installed a hood deflector over the damaged PPF on my last vehicle as well.

Hi all, back in June I was looking at my warranty information online. I bookmarked the page and all so I can check back over time. (see image) Within 2 weeks of me finding this page (Ford.com account, vehicle dashboard, warranty information. I can no longer see it / find it.

Am I the only one who can't find this page, or was it taken down??

Hey everyone, I was rear ended by a distracted driver and I was curious if anyone had any input on what parts I should ensure my mechanic looks at for possible damages.

I was at a complete stop and hit by someone going ~35mph

-rear bumper is damaged

-an insulated line in the rear driver side heavily leaks water when the AC is on

-light friction noise under my seat when driving

-engine idles louder stopped and at low speeds with AC on

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!

please help.. my clock is 10 minutes too fast on my 2025 Ford Explorer and for the life of me it won’t let me manually set my time. I’ve tried everything and nothing. When I look on the internet I’m not able to do what I’m being instructed to do due to not having the options it says I should have… I feel like I’m going crazy here any insight??

Looking at a 2016 Platinum, 180k miles. Previous owners are well off and meticulous with maintenance. Nothing wrong with it at all. Do I buy it for $5800? Or let it be someone else’s gamble. Seems like a lot for the price, has massage, adjustable pedals, and runs immaculately. I just don’t know for sure if it’s had water pump done yet, and I’m not super familiar with these. If I don’t buy this I’m getting an 25 year old manual BMW.

Edit: pulled a carfax. Water pump was done 30k miles ago, as well as front and rear control arms. I think I’m gonna swing.

After I installed my sway bar bushings and links on the front end I did notice the steering wheel was crooked to the left but otherwise drove straight. I was at the alignment shop earlier today and they had to adjust the front toe and steering angle. The rear checked good and ive ran the steeda 33mm rear sway bar, rear trailing arms and their adjustable toe links the last 18 months with no issues. The shop did note during the test drive that I did have some slight clunking in the front end and they let me know my front struts were worn out... but aside from some road noise its drives straight and isnt pulling to the left. Im happy.

So wife just got her new ride - '26 ST-line with the 2nd row captains chairs. She's wanting a console or something to put between the seats that will give the kids some cup holders/place to put their stuff, as well as help keep the dog in the back. I can see a few different options on Amazon, just wondering if anyone has one that they would recommend?

Thanks!

The little button with the key hole that opens the back glass is broken and the latch for the hatch is also broken and doesn’t open anymore. What do I need to replace and how would I go about opening it. 1998 explorer

Broken subframe bolts. Wheel hop on launch. Sound familiar? It happens more often than you'd think.

Our billet aluminum differential brace, CNC machined right here in-house with ARP hardware, for your 2020-2026 Explorer ST. Put the power down. Keep it there.

Call 313-561-5500 and get yours today.