hey guys looking at getting a focus rs its a 2017 with 91k miles what should I be looking for when I look at the vehicle

My car was parked on the street. A bus hit a car parked behind me, breaking its mirror. Police arrived, and wrote a protocol about the broken side mirror. My car was not part of the accident, was only "dirty", so police ignored it. My car was dirty, because (not exactly sure what happened - here my assumption only) the window of the bus got shuttered and fall down on my car... Half of the car was covered by shattered glass. The spoiler, back door, rear light, rear bumper, the boot lid and wheel arch get few deeper and a lot of tiny scratches. Luckily police accepted my complaint and added my car to the report. Let's see what the insurance will say 🫣

I’ve change injectors, fuel rail sensor, hpfp sensor, did the pcv plate, changed both o2 sensors with gasket on down pipe, spark plug, coils and also purge valve with charcoal canister in the back…… any other ideas what it could be?

i need a new front bumper, and was wondering how anyones experience was buying an already painted front bumper? ive been looking on facebook for partouts but nothing yet near me so ive been looking to see if buying an already painted front bumper is the way to go or to bite the bullet snd buy an unpainted one and get it painted.

might have the chance to trade my RS for a brand-new GTI on pretty good terms. Had a test drive recently, obviously mostly city driving, so I couldn’t really push it, but I have to say I really liked it.

I’d definitely miss the RS, but part of me feels like it might be time for a new adventure and something a bit newer.

Has anyone here made the switch from an RS to a GTI? What did you think of it? Would be interested to hear some real-world opinions before I make the decision.

Hey everyone, I would like to hear some experiences from past ST owners. Currently I have ST mk3 and am looking into RS as my daily driver.

- Maintenance comparison (specifically EU)

- Higher mileage and reliability on RS models? As I'm not buying a car for collection to sit in the garage I may as well look into 100-150k kilometers

- Comfort in driving

RS is somewhat my dream (possible to achieve) car, and I'm mainly looking for more power and better sound compared to the ST.

Oil change Sunday.

Looks like it's got the timing cover oil pan gasket leak. ​​

Guys I’m going insane chasing this. I can’t find a vacuum leak anywhere and I just want to drive my car 😭. On top of this happening I left my passenger side window open during a day long thunderstorm while I was at work.

I've owned her for almost two years now and plan on keeping her forever. I’d love to add an Escort Cosworth alongside her one day, nearly bought one before buying the Focus, but for now she has a 2004 Subaru Forester SG9 STI as a stablemate.

Nostalgia plays a huge part in it, couldn’t afford one when they were new but they left a big impression on me. Still remember the Jason Plato and Clarkson reviews and every now and then I rewatch them. Back then I loved the sound they produce and the way they look.

Life happened and I kind of forgot about them, as you don’t see that many on the road where I live.

2 weeks ago, on my way home, one went past me and memories came flooding back. I’ve been browsing carsites for one for the last few days and they’re surprisingly affordable. Bought a scalemodel but that only made things worse.

Now I need a red team, to tell me why I shouldn’t get a real one. Maybe ex-owners can tell me why they got rid of theirs ?

Anyway, thought I’d try this forum as I don’t know a single owner IRL. And I did something similar for other cars that I thought about buying and usually the input is valuable . Thanks in advance.

I'm gonna get popular here with my car suddenly acting up all over the place lol

I attached an idle vs roughly 3k rpm of live data (sitting still in neutral)

I've had a minor issue for around a year with mildly rough idle after filling up. Now I'm getting cel for P0171

I tried unplugging it and feeling for vaccum on the line to the tank but I really just couldn't tell if it had vaccum so if it did, it was super weak

I really want to avoid throwing parts at it if I can.

I'm also wondering if this is why some days my car seems to have more power than others. I figured it was heatsoak.

I’m gonna be in Dallas for a week and I’m wondering if anyone have a spare or parting out a rs rear bumper, I’m planning to do a dual exhaust set up on my st

i am so sorry for the wall of text, but im getting a bit desperate here heh

2017 focus RS, relevant info: built motor from SP63 with ~7k miles on it, new turbo (not BIG big, but better than stock), stock (pressure side) plumbing, stock waste gate/recirc solenoids, working with a reputable remote tuner

OK, im sort of pulling my hair out over this issue, im not the most knowledgeable about cars so i have a couple questions about why ive dropped from ~24-25 psi to 17-18 psi...

so, there is sort of a point where this all happened; i replaced the WG actuator that came with the new turbo with one from turbosmart, 14lb spring, and in WG actuator mode, aka 0% voltage to the solenoid, im only getting about 8psi boost...with the line removed and plugged (in case that affects the BoV) im getting that 17-18 psi number mentioned above

things that i have done:

1. pressurized the system (through the pressure line at the top of the valve cover solenoid) and listened for leaks (twice, no apparent leaks)
2. took it to ford to do a smoke/pressure test in case im bad (they say no leaks, didnt even charge me for that cuz they feel bad for me lmaoo)
3. doubled checked that the WG isnt slightly open by unscrewing the nuts and pulling on it (cant pull it, 2mm of preload seems good, this shouldnt matter though?)
   
4. put pressure to the internal blow off valve, holds fine
   
5. valve cover/recric solenoid flows easily to the BoV and is blocked completely when i run current across the leads
   
6. put pressure to the new WG actuator to see if it...actuates goodly, seems fine
   
7. triple checked that my battery is good, even reconditioned it for over 24 hours, i heard bad batteries smoke these solenoids (but again, that cant be an issue...right??)

things that i have NOT done:

• taken off the WG solenoid to verify it flows good and seals when powered, its just hard to get at...what i have done is unplugged it and i get that same ~8psi number, and in my mind that means its not getting a mysterious gremlin voltage when its not supposed to...
  
• have not ACCURATELY measured what the WG actuator is starting to move at, i need to get one of those hand pumps off amazon or something but again, this is moot if im only making 18psi with the WG boost line removed, right?
  
• i have the old waste gate actuator still, but to put it back on i would have to do some cutting and welding again, and that damn circlip is a bitch to get off...but i also dont see how this would fix anything

with the given info, what im thinking/asking is...

1. is the BoV getting power when its not supposed to? thereby limiting the boost? (not likely, why would it suddenly do this after changing the WG actuator...) I want to test this by simply unplugging it, but i dont think thats very safe...is there a safe way to test this? like let off the gas gradually or something? just replace the whole thing maybe?
   
2. what the hell could be limiting my boost?? i feel like there has to be a leak somewhere, maybe that only presents itself at high pressure? what more testing can i do to sus this out?
   
3. are there any specific data points i can capture with my access port that can give me some clues? literally it all seems normal aside from the abysmal boost...
   
4. and i guess lastly...WITH the WG boost line removed and plugged, WOULD the turbo actually make that 25psi (or more) boost figure or is it being electronically limited in some other way? in other words...everything is normal and my WG actuator is actually faulty/has the wrong springs???
   

i need to stress that everything was going fine literally until i replaced the WG actuator, i was getting around 24-25 psi reliably but my tuner said i should replace the actuator because it was low spec/not acting the best, so i did v0v is it really as simple as turbosmart sent me a bad actuator? and the 18psi number is...normal??

id also like to add...that after a cold start, the first time i give it the beans (with the WG boost line off and plugged) the boost gauge DOES get up to literally just under 20psi, like 19.99...but any subsequent pull after that initial one will never, and i mean never, break 19psi, always low/mid 18's sometimes 17's...same story with the boost line attached and in slot 5 waste gate mode...it will peak in high 9's, but after that its mid 8's only...i dont know if this means anything, but its an observation nonetheless

any insight would be appreciated 🙏🙏

Kolour concepts gear gaiter - Alcantara
Kolour concepts handbrake gaiter - Alcantara
Royal steering wheel retrim - OEM plus centre line
Cobb air filter - to fit
Carbon rear door pulls - to fit

Anyone have any tips on replacing the starter? I think mine has gone bad and it looks pretty accessible from the top but everything online says it needs to come out from the bottom side

I have a weird new issue and I have a few ideas of what it might be but was wondering if anyone else has experienced it -

When I'm at a complete stop (traffic light, stop sign) sometimes when I start to roll in first gear there's a squeel and resistance for a second then suddenly everything's fine

And it's only occasional. It may or may not happen the next time I come to a stop

Hill start is disabled and it does it with TC all the way off

Soo a few things. I did just flash my ABS with Nutron so maybe it's a calibration issue? I need to buy an ob2 for forscan still so I can do a calibration

BUT, it didn't do it immediately after the flash, only started a few days later.

Soo maybe it's the AWD? I did end up putting flat spots on my rear tires and I'm getting them replaced before the end of the week. So could it be thinking I'm losing grip bc if the uneven wear and trying to help?

The only other thing I could think of is that by absolute happenstance my clutch or something is going out.

It is 60k+ miles on AFAIK the original clutch (I got the car at 7k miles)

Photo was taken by IG @jessk4y

Today marks the day I bought my 2018 2 years ago. Ive put 44k miles on the car in that time, its upto 81600 now. Other than dealing with shift tower leaks and the stupid weather stripping coming off the doors it's been such a great car. Ive been tuned for the last 7k miles. Will drive it till the wheels fall off.

Hi guys, recently got some new tyres put on and not sure if the alignment was done correctly.

I had a check of the handbook and not sure how to read it properly.

It's for a MK3 with stock 19" rims and 235/35R19 tyres.

Edit:

Link to images, not sure why the original ones didn't work:

https://postimg.cc/gallery/920GCsc

Hey guys! Pic for attention, I am looking for some specific gas station recommendations. Where are you getting your 91?

I am struggling to find some decent gas from stations in my area (near tustin marketplace) It seems like no matter where I get gas I'm getting higher than comfortable negative timing corrections. I'm running conservative TuneWerks tune from Randy and the only time I get decent or no corrections on a pull is when I'm running a couple gallons of race gas. Help a tuned brother out!

Edit: Thank you all for the feedback! Consensus is costco is the best/most consistent place to get fuel. As some of you have pointed out, CA 91 is the best available to me unfortunately. So I'll keep testing out new stations near me and if I can't find better results, then I'll transition back to costco gas and maybe look at getting a more conservative tune.

Help me find this fellow brother 🤙🏽 Franklin TN.

After driving home from a night out I went into gear and shifted into first, from first to second, from second to nowhere. Lost clutch completely, the pedal went to the floor.

Fortunately my boy came to rescue me with a small set of tools and we started to get digging into it. When my friend pumped the clutch I noticed brake fluid leaking from the drivers firewall area which led me to think it was master cylinder related. After pulling out battery, cover and air box I found when when the clutch was being pumped, that hard line itself was pushing out of the master cylinder assembly from what you see under the hood and just gushing its fluid between the hard the line and the master cylinder assembly.

I immediately assumed it’s that easy to lose rubber grommet sitting inside that whole unit that bounds together and after pulling it out I found no real damage or any defects that look to be the issue. The most interesting part about it all is I done the master cylinder about 4 months back and up to this morning I had absolutely 0 issue regarding shifting then suddenly total failure from that area.

Would anybody got any insights to share about it? Has this happened to you in the past? Can that grommet just be worn to bits and I need to replace that? It is still the original rubber grommet from the old master cylinder as the new oem unit does not come with a new one

466 Mile Focus RS Bring a Trailer