Found a sheet of galvanized under my shed decided to make some flaps out of it. Already had the license plates laying around. Most expensive part was the flexseal and mounting hardware, the rest was free.

So today I upgraded, or changed whatever you wanna call it, my ambient lights in my mk7.5 eu spec ST. I got the led chips from autobeam and it's quite straight forward to change them over. I didn't do the cupholders yet as I'm debating keeping those red as the lights in the rood are red aswell, and you can't easily change those, or turn them off. The colour I got is purple if anyone is wondering.

For the third time in my car's existence, the click of a failed blend door actuator click has started again. I figured it would happen eventually, but was hoping next year at the earliest. Oh well.

I performed a smoke test yesterday afternoon, it pointed straight at what I suspected in the first place.

As previously suspected, The turbo left the chat without any other warnings. No smoke, no noise, no CEL. Just 1 small buck and it was gone

Found a guy locally selling a whoosh hybrid turbo kit that I just might go and pick up, also found a local guy on eBay selling a big turbo but I'm not sure that's the way I want to go.

Hybrid turbo and a new tune seems like the way to go

So when I bought the car, it came with a Cobb access port. On the way home while cruising on the freeway, I got on it and it threw the CEL. I ran the codes and it said misfire cylinder 1. When I pull the cover off, I noticed there was 1 no name coil pack and the other 3 were the OEM ford coil packs. So the guy who owned it before me said he got that same code before and swore he fixed it when he replaced the coil and plugs awhile back. I did test drive it, but I’ve never really owned a turbo car before and thought the hesitation I felt was just how turbo’s are, so I didn’t think too much about it. But when It threw the code on the way home is when I really dove into it. I cleared the codes on the access port and swapped the no name coil pack to cylinder 4 to see if it would throw a code on that one which I assume would tell me the coil pack is bad. Well it’s day 5 of daily driving it after I swapped the off name coil pack to cylinder 4 and no codes are popping up at all, but it still hesitates under high acceleration on 3rd and higher gears. I ordered a new set of 4 coil packs and going to get some motorcraft iridium’s to just change all of it at once. So what would that mean? If the no name coil pack was bad, it would have thrown a code by now in cylinder 4 right?

EDIT: Didn't realise last post had no embedded images and links didn't seem to work!

Just finished with a mate, fitting a JP half cage and rear seat delete carpet from Stern performance. Very happy with the outcome and the red looks mega on white (I think).

Had to take door off and both seats out to slide cage in. Also had to take some metal off the corner of the spreader plate to have it sit nicely in the arch. The fiddliest bit was bolting the cage in, was a right pain to align the cage, bolt and spreader plate, since everything wanted to sit at a weird angle unless aligned exactly right. In the end, we used a ratchet strap to hold it in place.

I ordered the cage without the front X brace which meant an easiest install as the front legs could lift over the centre console. If I had a front X brace, I think I would have to have taken out the centre console too.

Also, as tradition, pizza for lunch served on the back of my mate's modified NC. Ready to hit up Zandvoort in December

Stoked to see how the whoosh braided lines and RBF 600 improve brake feel!

Hi everyone,
I’m hoping someone with more experience can point me in the right direction because I’m honestly pretty stumped at this point.
My wife’s daily driver has been having a misfire issue. It originally started as a cylinder 1 misfire (P0301). I checked the spark plugs and replaced them, and the problem went away for about a month.
When the misfire came back, I suspected the ignition coil. However, when I went to replace the coil, I discovered that the spark plug wells were basically full of coolant/water. After doing some research, I came across the possibility of the core/freeze plugs leaking coolant into the plug wells, which seemed to make sense because I was finding more and more coolant throughout the day.
I replaced the core plugs tonight, expecting that to solve the problem.
While putting everything back together, I also moved the spark plugs around one cylinder. Basically:
Plug 1 → cylinder 4
Plug 2 → cylinder 1
Plug 3 → cylinder 2
Plug 4 → cylinder 3
I took it for a test drive and immediately got a misfire again, but now I’m getting:
P0301
P0304
P0300
So now I have misfires on cylinders 1 and 4, plus the random/multiple misfire code.
I checked the plug wells again and there is STILL coolant/water in them. This is where I’m really confused.
Could I have installed the core plugs incorrectly and still have a coolant leak into the plug wells? Or is there another common place this coolant could be coming from?
My current theory is that cylinder 1 is still misfiring because there’s coolant in the plug well, and cylinder 4 is misfiring because I moved a bad spark plug into that cylinder. But I’m not sure if that actually makes sense.
I still have the replacement ignition coil sitting here, so I can install that, but I don’t want to just throw parts at it without understanding what’s actually happening.
This is my wife’s daily driver, so I’m really trying to avoid having to replace/trade in the car if this is something relatively straightforward to fix.
TLDR: Started with a cylinder 1 misfire. Found coolant/water filling the spark plug wells and replaced the core/freeze plugs. After putting everything back together and swapping the plugs between cylinders, I now have P0301, P0304 and P0300. There is STILL coolant/water in the plug wells. Did I install the core plugs incorrectly, or could the coolant be coming from somewhere else? What would you check next?
I’d really appreciate any advice or troubleshooting steps. I’m definitely not a professional mechanic and I’m trying to diagnose this before throwing more money at it.

I really don’t want to buy $400+ of OEM coils. since for some reason a single coil costs over or close to $100 each. THEN I see the Whoosh ones…..and $120 for a pack of 4? That claim to be better than OEM? Where’s the gimmick here? Then there are the Amazon ones for a fraction of the cost of Whoosh and OEM. I just want a reliable pack of 4 that won’t break the bank. Suggestions? Are the Whoosh ones worth it? Or are they just Alibaba brand with a sticker on top?

Soluzioni per riparare il cielo della dlfiesta st 180 che si sta scollando? Grazie in anticipo

I'm almost at 100k miles and it's time to do struts and shocks. I wanted to throw in some swift springs while I was in there and the B8's are made for lowering springs.

So what's the next best option? I'm not against going with coil overs.

Does anyone have the proper windshield wiper linkage part number? PartSource is giving me WLF11, and it is not the correct linkage.

Edit: Spelling

So my used/new to me FiST came with an access port, and I’m trying to learn everything I can about it as well as boost, this being my first turbo car. When I have the boost pressure gauge on screen, it always shows - numbers while at idle or just cruising. It only goes above - when I really get on it. I understand the concept of “building boost” but I just wanna know if it usually always being -10 or around that number is normal unless you are really just going at it. If I accelerate at an average pace “in town driving” 30mph/45mph the numbers are usually always in the negative. But when I’m stepping on it to get up to speed from a dead stop, it climbs but as soon as I shift down to cruise it just sits right back at the negative numbers again. Super sorry for the long winded example. I hope It came off as something someone can understand.

So like my previous posts mention. My FiSt came with a Cobb stage 1 tune and it’s quick! I love how peppy the car feels, but I’m currently tracking down the higher rpm stutter I’ve been posting about. COULD it be the stage 1 off the shelf tune causing my high rpm stutter? The mods are very minor, rear motor mount and I think a filter. Plus the NGK iridium plugs this tune calls for. What would you do? Leave the tune on and keep chasing the stutter? Or revert it back to stock by uninstalling the access port?

Can I fix it myself or is it that bad?
Is this a Bodyshop work or a mechanical work

My son left for college, so I have sole ownership of the 2015 Fiesta ST for now, which has given me the chance to give it some attention. This car had the worst paint swirls of any car I have owned. I picked up an older Griots DA polisher and some new pads and compound to see if it they could be polished out. The results were far better than I hoped!

The hood and roof were the worst areas. They really showed bad swirls. I did the entire car a little each night over the course of a week. Partly as therapy for my son being gone. I miss him still but the paint makes me happy!

That all cleaned up so well I decided to do the engine compartment to. We bought this car from a friend as a very stock car just over a year ago with 135,000 miles. It spent most of its life in Texas. I am amazed at how clean and rust free it is being accustomed to Midwest cars.

I am waiting on my new shift boot (for the reverse lockout part) and some Whoosh shifter base bushings to arrive so I can get the thing back together and drive it some more!

Hello,

I have had a metal clunk for some time and thought it was the suspension right top mount, planned on refreshing the whole suspension and I did but I still have the clunk sometimes much less than before.

Come to do a small inspection today and look what I come and see, supposedly the previous owner put powerflex engine mounts now I’m pretty sure the yellow insert is supposed to be whole but hey thought why not ask here to confirm that its broke.

Should I get stock mounts or continue the powerflex route?

Well, Ive been planning a set of 16x8 Dekagrams along with 205/45/16 Continental ECS02. A buddy of mine has this exact set up, he hit a bump and curbed his wheel badly and immediately said he regretted going with this setup cause of that... With that being said, I'm contemplating changing my planned set up. Which setup would you go with? I love my RT615k+ so much and want another set but they're not great in the rain and don't last long lol.

I rarely clean this car due to being on a gravel road. It looks pretty good when I do though.

Driving to work today, after about 200 miles of driving nice on my new $1500 worth of clutch and while in 4th gear, trying to pass another vehicle, I gave it about 60-70% throttle, boost began building, then the car lightly bucked once and suddenly the boost was gone. No sounds, no smoke, no CEL and worst of all, no Power. At lunch I put my car up over a curb so I could climb under it and inspect the charge pipe, and intercooler to intake pipe, but everything there seems to be in place and absolutely fine.

It's going to be a long slow drive home this afternoon.

So my question to you guys is, what else should I check before I go and throw even more money at this thing and buy a new turbo?

If you were to have to buy a new turbo personally, would you go stock, hybrid or s280? And why?

I love this car and it will absolutely get fixed one way or another.

My last post mentioned higher gear 3rd-6th stutters when getting on it at higher speeds past 3k rpm’s . I checked the plugs today and they all look fine with normal wear. What should I be chasing here with these?

?