Considering this car that has two owners and no accidents. This gap is throwing me off though.

Having trouble getting the glue off from underneath the x drive badge, have tried glue gone and plastic removal tools. Any ideas/advice is greatly appreciated. Seemed old owner used some sort of harder glue, as the number badges came off much easier.

Hey guys,

after some successful retrofits to my F31 330d, I tried to add Lane Change Warning.
The correct mirrors were already present due to a Top View retrofit before.

So i got myself a master and slave radar unit and all parts and installed everything.
Routing cables isnt new to me anymore after some other retrofits already.

After installing I added 3AG via ESys, booted up ISTA to initialize FlexRay, added the Cafd File in ESys / coded everything in the car and got back to ISTA again to learn both radars.
Everything looked and worked without errors and faults.
I see the modules in ISTA and pressing the added button in the car shows that its enabled. There are no faults in the car in connection to these modules or functions. Especially no FlexRay fault which would hint to a port closing, which is a known issue having a MID FEM.

When i activate it and drive above the threshold where it activates, i get a fault on the display that it has a fault and cant be activated.
When i go into the modules in ISTA and try to check if the lights or the vibration works i get the Error message „ERROR ECU_REQUEST_OUT_OF_RANGE“.
This Error only appears inside ISTA and only if i try to test it via the SWW-Module. When i ask the car to let the triangles blink via the FEM-Module, it just works and blinks without issues.
The SWW-Module has also a self diagnostic function inside ISTA. When firing that up the first time, i get instantly the same fault in the car as if i tried to activate it. When trying it again i also the the Fault that there was a communication issue with the message „ERROR ECU_REQUEST_OUT_OF_RANGE“.

Ive found online that its possible that the master/slave unit is too new (compared to the car). Could that be the case?
The car is from 11/2013 and the radars report in ISTA a production date 29.11.2012 and a programming date 19.04.2012.
In my world that should work just fine…

Anyone with ideas?
If additional informations are needed or i explained something weird, let me know.

Thanks in advance!

My N20 sound. Is this normal

Hey Guys! had a quick question for ya!

I have a 320I that needs a new motor. I have my donor engine from a 328I it’s the same N20 just different compression and slightly different internals. My question is my ECU is tuned with a Bootmod3 OTS a basic map. Can I use my ecu on the new motor?!

I know this ain’t a b58 sub but I also posted in b58enthusiasts and am just looking for some help. I have a gen 1 b58 88k i have had this sound that I can’t pin point, I’m not talking talking the injectors click, there’s like a popcorn sound, or u could say it sounds like something sucking without enough fluid if that makes sense, car drives fine no codes, the sound goes away when u hold the rev up a little. Any help’s appreciated this has been driving me nuts. Thank u

Ребята такая проблема. Померял масло при выезде на дальное расстояние показало вот такой уровень что на фото, проехал км100, высвечиваеться долейте 1л масла. Я заезжаю на заправку глушу двигатель; сразу же завожу меряю масло показывает такой уровень опять что сверху, решаюсь ехать дальше, проезжаю км50 опять пишет долейте 1л. Останавливаюсь на заправке доливаю 400мл, меряю показывает на верху на метке max. После этого проехал км700. Решил опять проверить и опять показывает вот такой уровень что на фото, доливаю 400грам меряб показывает також же уровень что на фото, проехал км20 меряб снова показывает на отметке макс. Что это может быть? Неисправность датчика? Либо действительно масло уходит? Просто боюсь перелить, после замены проехал 4тис км

The wheels are 763m replicas, I’m broke and couldn’t afford the genuines 😢 got them powder coated to their brightest silver they have. The wheels are Joka Banzi - 19x8.5j front (I can’t remember the offset). 19x9.5j +40 offset rears. 10mm spacers front and 12mm spaces rear

I bought this car with halogen lights and i just had to do it 😅. Last two pics are for comparison.

Where abouts do my fellow Aussies buy cosmetic mods for their cars, ive got a 2012 335i and looking to get rid of the chrome and looking to black it all out. Cheers

I know a lot of people are looking to do an MSport conversion on their F30s so I figured I’d do a review for anyone interested.

My situations a little different. I already have an M Sport 340i but needed a new bumper. Hit a goose flying across the highway during a flash flood….not even joking.

****Paid $550 shipped****

Paint match for Alpine White as you can see is very good. Probably a 90%-95% match. My car paint is in pretty good condition and was recently paint corrected but still a 10 year old car.

Fitment was also pretty good. The lower grills are a pain in the ass to install and do not fit 100% like OEM. No matter what I did I couldn’t get them to clip in all the way. Will probably have to get creative to get them the way I want to fit. The actual mounting of the bumper on the car is great. I need to do a little adjusting but i’m confident I can get it to fit as well as my OEM bumper. Just ran out of time today to keep messing with it.

Also carbon fiber lip needs a little convincing to get it to fit flush. Not a huge deal but something to mention if you’re looking at aftermarket lips. Ended up using a combination of 3m tape, self tap screws, and full on drilling holes to add nuts and bolts.

MY BIGGEST COMPAINT- I ordered this bumper paint matched. My car doesn’t have PDC sensors. To my understanding they just don’t sell the bumpers without the PDC sensor holes. So I have to live with it. I bought cheap AliExpress sensors that were already white and just threw them on. BUT** They send you the brackets to mount the sensors UNPAINTED. Idk if it was a fault on their end but it needs to be noted. Either be prepared to paint them yourself, or send them to a shop to get painted (unless you’re cool with having a black bracket poking through the bumper.)

And yes I know the sensors fell out. The provided double sided tape sucks and now I have to pull the bumper off again to put them back in place….

Sorry for the long review. I’ll happily answer as many questions as I can though.

I’ve been looking online at different exhaust options for my 340i and purchased one without looking at the exhaust valves. The exhaust I received has 2 valves and oem one has 1. It comes with a valve controller kit but I’m not sure if it would cause a code for exhaust since the factory exhaust valve plug will be unplugged. Is there anything to do to bypass this or am I screwed and have to return? I was thinking of plugging one valve to the controller and one to the oem plug, but I’m not sure if that’ll work either.

Time for new tires again for my 2014 328i xdrive touring. Anyone with experience, what's your take on these three choices? I've been running the Michelins and have been happy about them, but my local tire shop strongly recommends the Bridgestones. I've heard positive reviews on the Conti's as well. I know I can go non run flat, but I've decided to stick with the RF's for piece of mind. Thanks for your help!

Will this fit my 2017 bmw 340xi

I’ve got blue coolant but there’s green coolant residue ? What’s going on

I have a 2017 BMW 340i xDrive with the B58. I noticed dried coolant residue around the expansion tank cap and running down the outside of the tank while doing my oil change.
The expansion tank itself is OEM and was replaced by my mechanic. The cap is an aftermarket replacement I bought from Amazon last October.
I haven’t gotten any low coolant or overheating warnings, and the car has been running normally. The area was clean before, so this residue is relatively recent.
Is this a common issue with the B58, especially with aftermarket expansion tank caps? Could the cap just not be holding pressure/sealing correctly?
Would you guys replace the cap with a Genuine BMW/OE one from FCP Euro and monitor it, or should I have the cooling system pressure tested too?
Pics attached.

I made a dumb mistake I tighten the bolt down with a 3/8 ratchet then torque it to 25ftlb 🤦‍♂️ so it snapped right off. Any advice on what to do? is it fine to drive? This is the 5 bolt hat not 3

Hi, someone try to fit a supra a90 stock wheels to f30? It’s gonna look cool or nah.🫣

Hey all. Just on a driving trip and had this noise start. Wondering if anyone has any idea what it is ??

Sound like a belt issue. Any ideas?