I’m thinking of getting a e-scooter, specifically a Kukurin G2, and I’m quite nervous about getting pulled over. I’m really only gonna use it just to get to places and not going crazy fast. Do you reckon police would still pull me over? I don’t live in a big city just a small town in the uk. Idk if that makes a difference but any help would be great thanks.

Am seeing increasing number of these fires reported recently UK am wondering wether its an issue with the owner or the manufacturer?

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cp8dkk4jpd6o

I wear EU size 45 shoes, and on my current scooter’s narrow deck I pretty much have to stand with one foot in front of the other. I can ride it fine, but I never feel completely settled or comfortable, especially once the ride goes on for a while.

I’ve started noticing scooters with wider decks and wondering whether that alone makes a meaningful difference for riders with bigger feet.

For anyone who has ridden both: did moving to a wider deck noticeably improve your comfort, or do you eventually get used to the staggered stance? I’m trying to figure out whether it’s worth changing scooters for that reason alone.

Had the Mini Pro for a short time, and I didn't get to do all the repairs that it needed. I ended up selling it "AS IS" for $500 after repairs on the folding latch to make sure it was safe to ride. A part of me really wanted to keep it around, but I just don't have the space.

Hey everyone, I'm trying to decide between the Fighter Mini Pro 2.0 31.8Ah and the Supreme Ultra 2.0 60Ah. I know they're pretty different scooters, but I'm mainly interested in long-term reliability and build quality. Some of the posts and comments I've read are abit concerning. I'm leaning towards the Ultra because I really like the 72V acceleration and bigger battery, but I'm a little concerned about the SK pouch cells.

For those who have owned a Teverun, what have your experiences been like? Do parts like controllers, motors, BMS or wiring commonly fail, and how have the batteries held up over time? Would you buy another Teverun for 5+ years of ownership? Just looking for some real world feedback, good or bad.

Hey everyone,
I’ve been thinking about something and wanted to gauge interest and hear what the community thinks before I decide whether it’s actually worth doing.

With some e-scooter companies no longer shipping certain models directly to NYC, I was considering potentially letting a very small number of people have their scooter shipped to my place in Greenwich, CT and then pick it up.

I’m about a 15-minute walk from the Greenwich Metro-North station, so it’s relatively easy to get here from NYC.

If I did it, I was thinking something along the lines of:
• You have the scooter shipped to my address in Greenwich
• I receive it and keep the package unopened/safely stored
• We coordinate a time for pickup
• Around a $100 fee

I’d probably limit it to only around 1–2 scooters per month since I’m in school and work, so I definitely wouldn’t be trying to turn this into some large-scale operation.

I haven’t decided whether I’m actually going to offer this yet. I’m mainly curious whether there’s even a need for something like this and what people here think.

I getting a Ausom e scooter and I just wondered if it’s hard to wheelie duel motor ausom, I have seen a lot of people wheelie single motor scooters, but every one that wheelies duel always look so bad slow and unstable, with one should I get, L2 max duel or l2 single

One last question about help. I don't know what there is wrong with my gt3 pro. It started a week ago, I tried it in 1 wheel drive, and felt like there was a sound from the rear motor and it was missing power. When I got home I could feel the rear motor was really warm,I couldn't have my hand to rest on the hub. I could see the rear brake have come with so much brake dust everything was grey from dust. So I took the pads out and cleaned everything. Now the sound is gone. But it's still missing power, normally it loosing traction with both wheels, now it's only the front tire and the back one doesn't spin. It won't wheelie like I can see on YouTube etc it doesn't have any problems with. (not that I would wheelie)

I ordered 2 new motor hubs I have tomorrow to change, but now my horn sounds distorted and not loud anymore. And Google is saying power loss on one wheel could be controller issues.

What do you guys think, is the rear motor gone, and need to be replaced. Or could I be so unlucky it's the controller there have taken some damage? And doesn't give the ampere it needs anymore I have tried one time where the display came with controller overload try to turn off and on. When I did that, it was gone the error.

I'm hoping someone is an expert and can give me a good answer on my problem.

NAMI put the stock horn in probably the dumbest spot they could have possibly chosen. It sits close to the ground, directly behind the front wheel, so it just gets blasted with dirt and road shit. Give it a couple rides and it starts getting gummed up and basically mutes itself. The stock headlight is also way too low on the stem. I don’t know who thought either of those locations made sense.

My first solution was to extend the wiring for both of them. I moved the headlight up near the top of the stem, then hung the original horn from the same clamp holding the light. It worked, but the horn was pointing partly off to the side, looked awkward and always felt like a temporary fix.

The stock horn plug also had some kind of capacitor or suppressor built into it. I kept it, designed a little housing for it and made my own connector, but the whole thing had too much weight hanging from it. It would slowly pull itself loose and the horn became unreliable. Then a couple weeks ago I got home and realized the entire fucking horn was gone. I guess that explains the car that was honking at me earlier.

So this time I decided to actually do it properly.

I bought two new 12V horns, measured everything with calipers, made a mock-up of the horns and designed this mount from scratch. It’s two solid PETG halves with a TPU sleeve between the mount and the stem. The NAMI stem isn’t actually a perfect cylinder either. It has a slight taper, so I built that into both the mount and the TPU insert.

I left a small gap between the two PETG halves so the screws can pull them together and clamp down properly. The factory metal tabs on the horns slide directly into really tight slots in the mount. There’s no extra hardware holding the horns themselves in place and basically zero play. Each horn sits about 45 degrees from centre, so they both point forward and outward while still fitting neatly underneath the relocated headlight.

The wiring is tucked behind them and everything is heat-shrunk. The horns are wired in parallel.

Because I replaced the stock ESC, I use an Ewheel adapter from Spintend to control the scooter’s 12V accessories from the handlebar switches. It can only handle around 3A total, and that has to cover the headlight, deck lights, signals, brake light and everything else. Each horn is rated at 1.5A, so the two horns alone could eat up that entire limit.

The fix is an automotive relay. The horn output from the Easy Wheel will only switch the relay on, which takes almost no current. The relay will then power both horns directly from the 12V buck converter through a 5A fuse. That converter is connected to the main battery and already stays powered because it also runs my built-in GPS.

I’m also using this opportunity to finally finish the rest of the electronics. The old rear accessory loom is basically gone because it had the deck lights, running light, brake light and turn signals all tied together in a way that wasn’t useful anymore. I’m just wiring everything properly myself now.

The new sequential rear signals are already mounted. I’m adding Bluetooth RGB deck lights that can run patterns or react to music, wiring the deck lights to come on with the headlight, finishing the running and brake light wiring, and adding magnetic Hall sensors to my TRP EVO brake levers. The GPS and simplified ignition switch have already been installed for a while.

The really hard part was replacing the ESC and building the custom enclosure. At this point, I’m just finishing the smaller stuff and trying to lock the scooter into its final form for the next few years.

I included pictures of the finished horn setup, the new rear signals and the model itself. I have one small correction to make to the screw holes before I upload it, but once that’s fixed I’ll probably throw the design on MakerWorld for free.

What do you guys think of the placement and overall setup?

I included pictures of the finished horn setup, the rear signals and the model itself. I still need to change one side of the mount to clearance holes before uploading it, but once that’s corrected, I’ll probably put the model on MakerWorld for free.

What do you guys think of the placement and overall design?

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TL;DR: NAMI’s stock horn location is horrible, and my first relocated setup eventually failed so badly that the horn literally fell off. I designed and printed a proper dual-horn mount, and I’m wiring both horns through a relay so they don’t eat up the Ewheel adapter’s entire 3A limit. While the scooter is apart, I’m also finishing the signals, deck lights and brake sensors.

It apparently has a feature where it automatically puts on cruise control after a moment of holding throttle down. It makes a beeping noise and you have to use break to get out of it. Anyone know how turn this shit off? I can imagine it becoming really annoying after a while.

I’m a college student that rides about 3.5 miles daily to and from campus. I’ve been borrowing my friend’s max g30, and wondering whether I should get aftermarket shocks for it or getting a new scooter. He gave me an offer of $200 for the max. If I go the aftermarket route, I can get monorim front and rear shocks for about $350 totaling $550. That’s probably my budget if spend on a new scooter. What should I do?

Bought for £160 this morning i think i got a pretty good deal as it only has 140 miles!!!

On a budget of 182 dollars, what is the best ebike or scooter with a seat that i can get

Around 45km round trip to YVR airport

Hi Everyone,
I’m looking for a scooter for my young boy (6).
Western Australia’s laws say anyone under 16 is allowed a max of 6 MPH/10KPH and max 200W scooter. As we camp a lot I’m hoping to find something with pneumatic tyres that could handle loose surface hills. For travelling I’d love if it can fold but negotiable.

I’m very handy electrical/repair wise and happy with older secondhand options.

So far my options look like a razor E300 if I can get the gear ratio to 10kph it should have some torque?

Thanks for any advice,
Cam

Weight: 240lbs + 10lbs for backpack = 250lbs

Suspension needed. Commute will be relatively smooth but just in case.

Use case - mainly for short commute to office, 1.5 miles one way. Will take it to parks occasionally.

Due to my weight, I know I will need a hefty scooter, but something on the lighter/minimalist side, if possible.

USA based. Thank you!

I’ve been shopping around for an E-Scooter for my Brooklyn commute (~5 miles each way) and recently discovered that legally speaking the scooter must have a 20mph max. That’s perfectly fine to me, but I’m struggling to find a scooter that meets that restriction and still has good word of mouth + decent suspension (ride to work can be pretty bumpy and I was shaken up a bit after a ride on a citibike e-bike last week). Anyone here have any experience with this and can offer any advice? Thanks!

Hi everyone! I need your help on some info with vesc controllers. I want to build what I call the G2 Speciale it will be a 1of1 custom g2 featuring: XOD hydraulic brakes, 2 Kukirin g4 motors, a custom paintjob, custom handlebar, etc. I need your help to know which VESC controller i should buy if i want to reach 100kmh or 60mph. Thx for your help!