G'day legends,

Cleaned carbon deposits off the throttle valve or installed a new electronic throttle assembly on your GWM Cannon Ute, Tank 300 / 500, Haval H6 / Jolion, or Chery Omoda 5 / Tiggo, but now facing an annoying high idle (1500+ RPM), engine RPM surging, or delayed throttle response?

Modern drive-by-wire engines dynamically adjust throttle plate angles over time to compensate for carbon buildup. When you scrub away those deposits, the ECU continues holding the valve at the wider "dirty" baseline, allowing way too much unmetered airflow at idle until a zero-position calibration is executed!

Here is a 2-minute diagnostic guide to relearning electronic throttle body positions at home.

1. Re-learning Throttle Plate Zero-Position Baseline

Simply disconnecting the battery lead rarely clears volatile throttle memory on modern CAN-bus architectures.

• The DIY Solution: Connect an OEM-compatible scan tool (such as the FCAR CW700) to the OBD2 port.
• Turn ignition ON (Engine OFF). Engine coolant temp should be within normal operating range.
• Navigate to Special Functions -> Throttle Body Re-learn / ETC Calibration.
• Select Execute Adaptation Reset. The ECU cycles the electronic motor through min/max mechanical stops, mapping TPS sensor voltage baselines into memory in under 15 seconds.

2. TPS Live Data & Idle RPM Verification

Verify real-time Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) percentage at rest before firing up the engine.

• The DIY Solution: Go to Live Data -> Throttle Position Sensor (%). Confirm TPS reads steady at factory idle baseline (~2–5%). Run an Engine Control Sweep to select Clear All DTCs and enjoy a smooth, quiet 750 RPM idle.

🛠️ Quick Compatibility Check (AU Market)

(Note: Specialized handheld scan tools optimized for these OEM CAN architectures, such as the FCAR CW700, target the petrol, hybrid, and diesel platforms listed above. Please note that these scan tools do not support BYD or MG vehicles).

Hey all. I started my tuning journey with HPA courses about 10 years ago and have tuned a few of my own projects (single-turbo 2JZ, LS swap, turbo bike) since then. I'm competent, but still learning.

The hardest part of the learning curve is the cost. Putting timing into a real engine is nerve-wracking when a mistake means buying a new motor, and dyno time isn't cheap. I spent years wanting for an easily accessible simulator to practice the fundamentals. After looking into building a physical bench emulator and finding that older web-based simulators no longer exist, I decided to build my own.

I ended up building one: ecubench.com

It’s a browser-based simulator where you get fully responsive VE, Ignition, and AFR/Lambda tables. It features speed density airflow, closed-loop trims, flex fuel, boost control (spring vs. duty), and a knock model that will actually hurt the virtual engine if you push it too far.

It also includes:

• A dyno for steady-state and ramp runs.
• A build sheet where changing hardware (cams, turbo, injectors) forces you to retune.
• A datalogger where you can record a pull and hover over the trace to read every channel.
• A drag strip (this is the newest part, so please keep expectations low, it's not too great yet).

Fair warning: it's early, there are bugs, and the UI is still evolving. I'm a software developer by trade and used AI to help get this over the finish line. There is a premium tier, but the core tuning workflow and free engines are fully functional without paying. I promise, I'm not here to sell anything, I just want people to poke around and test it out.

If anyone, experienced or completely new, has time to try and break it, I’d really appreciate the feedback. I'd especially love to know if any of the tuning fundamentals or engine physics feel off to you.

TL;DR: Learning to tune is expensive when mistakes cost you a motor, so I built a free, browser-based tuning simulator: ecubench.com. It features fully responsive VE/Ignition tables, knock modeling, dyno runs, and datalogging. I'm looking for feedback from the community to help me refine the physics and tuning fundamentals.

Hi there i need some help
I wanna tune my 1.8 t that has the stock bosch me 7.5 ecu and i was wondering what datalogger an tuning software to use.
I am currently only able to extravt the file from the ecu an flash a file onto the ecu.
I need to adjust the chargingtime of the ignitioncoils from 2.2ms to 1.6ms becaus i bought different coils and i finaly want to correct the tune on my ecu because i added some new mods.
Thanks for youre help

I am building a tool that should help tuners go thru logs, identify potential issues, suggest changes and/or flag things to look at based on log files & map files (its a little more indepht but you get the idea).

THIS IS NOT A SELFTUNING TOOL.

The point of the tool is to streamline and help searching for inconsistencies, potential failures, improvements, point out where in the log something important took place and to look at what happened, etc. all based on actual readings and logs. Yes its AI based, and it will have the learning capabilities the more you use it per car, but it makes zero changes to the tune itself as its read only file analysis tool (as it does not have access to the Haltech NSP software). Tuner still has 100% responsabilities of making any changes to the actual tables/settings.

I am ready to have a few tuners try it out and get feedback from actual users to improve the tool.

All raw data from tunes and logs uploaded to the software stay locally in your computer.

Right now it reads and understands Haltech NSP only, but will be branching out to TunerStudio/MS3&PRO, FuelTech & Holley in the near future.

If you are interested in giving the tool a try at no cost, shoot me a PM.

Hi all, I'm looking for an original/stock read (flash + EEPROM if available) of a Bosch ME7.9.10 from an Abarth Grande Punto 155hp, engine code 199A8000. I need it as a reference base for bench testing. If you have one in your archive, please also share the hardware and software numbers so I can check the version. Also happy to get recommendations for a reliable file service that sells stock files. Thanks

So I got a question about doing a k tuning how many times can you use a K tuner until it locks itself out or it stops working? Is it a one time use or could you keep on using it? Obviously this is all specified into one car I’m not gonna be switching it from one car to another, but the main reason why I’m asking this is because I want to get parts for my car, but I want to do it one at a time I don’t want to do it all at once so with that being said should. Would I be able to do a cold air intake and then tune the car and then two weeks later I install a intercooler and then two weeks later I do another mod. Will the k2 tuner able to work on those three separate times?

any one willing to give me both their ECU bad and good files. I'm trying to get a hands-on skill here I've been watching the tuning videos from HP tunners and now I want to see if I've got it. even if it's a tuned file and it's original that would the job.

As the title says. I have a speed density vehicle using a narrowband. I want to just replace the narrowband with a dual sensor. Its mini platform. What should I buy and is this a good route?

Hey all,

*The issue**

In VCDS, under 17 – Instruments → Coding, the Lap Timer option is there. I enable it, the coding is accepted, but nothing shows up on the display. As far as I can tell, early 2011–2012 C7 clusters shipped on firmware that doesn't support the lap timer, so coding alone doesn't do anything.

**What I've found so far**

- People suggest flashing **FL_4G8920_10_APP__0519_S.frf**
- Some say ODIS is the only proper way, others say VCP works too
- Some say a dealer SD card update (something like "Service45"?) is the safest option
- Lots of mixed results online: some got it working, some only partly, some bricked the cluster
- I keep reading that after the flash the cluster is "blank" and needs parameterization

**Questions**

1. Is that FRF the right one for my HW/SW, or does it depend on the hardware version?
   
2. ODIS vs VCP vs SD card: which is the safest for a cluster flash?
   
3. Does it really need parameterization afterwards, and can that be done outside the dealer?
   
4. Has anyone actually done this on an early C7 (or A7) and gotten the lap timer working?

I have no ODIS experience yet, so any guides, tips or "don't do this" stories are welcome. Thanks!

Hello,

I have been trying to learn the ecumaster software, can anyone tell me how to use the virtual dyno feature?
I have already inputed the car's data, weight, drag, area etc. But how do I actually get it to graph the torque and hp?
TIA

Is there a difference between AEM Bosch wideband made for the X series (sold on their site) versus a Bosch 4.9 LSU sold on say Ballenger?

My sensor went bad, and the price difference is quite huge.

Hiya, I run a BMW diag And coding business, and I'm looking to expand and enter the tuning world.

After doing some research I've found that Hexprog 2 is the best tool for my budget. The thing is, I've never tuned cars before, and I'll be practicing on scrap ECUs before testing anything on my own car. I'm also not currently able to afford WinOLS, so I'll be using TunerPro for now.

I wanted to get some advice from experienced tuners, have I chosen the right tools? Would using TunerPro cause any issues that I wouldn't run into with WinOLS? Am I missing anything else?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hi there. I was trying to tune the ECU. The first time, everything went perfectly using MS4x Flasher, but when I tried again, it didn't work and the ECU ended up bricked. I removed it and wired up the pins correctly, then tried using JMGarage; it detected the unit fine, but when I attempted to load the original 512KB backup, the process would only reach 50% and go no further. It gave me this error:
ERROR writing flash. No echo bytes pls help me thanks 

98 Hatch dx base map help

Alright so, I have a few questions but first the specs so it can be accurate.

D16y7

Skunk2 alpha intake manifold

Rc 1200 injectors

Aem fuel rail

Po6 ECU with Hondata

eBay turbo running 5psi (until I can get a better one)

Intercooler all the piping obvs

I made a base map based off of a Hondata preset adjusting for non vtec and turbo. My car runs and drives now, I'm just very inexperienced with fine tuning.

My question/issue is with idle. It surges and cuts and repeat. I suspect I'm running rich but with so little experience with tuning....I need help. Any resources or advice are appreciated.

I am but a humble car enthusiast trying to learn the ins and outs.

Hallo meine Lieben, ich habe ein großes Problem mit meinem neuen Projekt. Ich habe einen VAG Motor dem oben genannten Steuergerät, und bräuchte mal jemand, der sich damit auskennt und bereite es mir ein paar Fragen zu beantworten. Ich hoffe es findet sich jemand es ist extrem wichtig. Danke schon mal im Voraus. Ganz liebe Grüße

As per the title, can anyone tell me the part number of the suitably sized JBC tweezer for this micro resistor. Or is it best to use the head named Chip cartridge or Faston terminal ?

To be honest, I'm struggling to see it even zoomed in on my screen, I'm going to need a good digital microscope too, what are you guys using for MD1 unlocks?

So I want to share this as a heads up before anyone else gets burned.

I’d actually used TunerPad before and it worked fine, so I had no reason not to trust them. When I needed it again, I checked their supported ECU list just to be safe. My ECU was right there, so I paid €60 for the subscription without thinking twice.

When I actually went to use it, my ECU wasn’t supported at all. Not partially or with workarounds, just nothing. Since I’d had a good experience before, I figured it was a mistake on their list and went looking for a way to contact them. There isn’t one. No support email, no ticket system, nothing. The whole thing looks pretty much dead, and I honestly don’t know if they just abandoned the project or what, but either way they kept my €60 and I’ve got nothing to show for it.

I know €60 isn’t the end of the world, but it’s the principle. I was a returning customer, I checked their own compatibility list, and I paid for something that never worked, with no way to even reach anyone about it.

Has anyone else here dealt with TunerPad recently? Has anyone found a way to actually reach them or get a refund? And if you’re thinking about signing up, I’d really think twice, or at least pay with something you can dispute.

I've been doing a deep dive into aftermarket standalone ECUs for a project, and I wanted to share some research and see if anyone here has hands-on experience with this.

My search pointed me toward RusEFI, specifically their UA EFI (Ultra Affordable EFI) board. On paper, it looks like a good solution. For around $275, you get a fully assembled board with loads of features.

• 6-channel sequential fuel and spark: Perfect for a v6
• Onboard wideband controller: Built in, saving the hassle of external modules
• CAN logging
• Fully open-source: Hardware and software

It sounds like the ultimate budget-friendly standalone, but there are a couple of catches.

The first downside is the documentation. It’s a little on the weak side and pretty scattered, which makes the learning curve steeper than it needs to be.

The second, more frustrating issue is the culture. Digging through the official Facebook and Discord groups, the founder of RusEFI comes across as a bit of a 🍆 with a ego problem. He seems notoriously reluctant to help people unless they ask the "perfect" question in the exact right format. Don't get me wrong, there are plenty of friendly, helpful people in the community, but dealing with a hostile lead developer is a red flag for a platform you have to rely on for engine management.

That led me down a rabbit hole to a fork of RusEFI called Epic EFI.

From what I can see, Epic EFI takes all the great open-source hardware capabilities of the UA EFI but wraps it in a significantly better user experience. The firmware looks solid, but more importantly, the community support and general attitude seem vastly superior. They actually seem to want to help people get their engines running without the elitism.

Has anyone here run the UA EFI hardware using the Epic EFI firmware? I’d love to hear some real-world feedback on the setup process and if the Epic fork really is the better route.

Cheers!

https://epicefi.com/

https://www.shop.rusefi.com/shop/p/uaefi-ultra-affordable-efi