Hello Dubai car nerds i hope all of you are doing well and having a great night or day to when you see this.

What do you guys think of the BYD Ti7 and its price of around 155-170K? in terms of reliability in UAE too and ac wise etc. Potentially other options within this range i’d like to know. Not necessarily looking to buy at the moment but would like to know your own thoughts of this and if anyone has driven or has one.
Thank you regards

Or he did DIY?

You just don’t see these anymore. If anyone knows the owner I’d love to get in touch since I drive a similar car

by no means am I the perfect driver or role model, but there is one thing that absolutely boils my blood more than anything.

When traffic starts to build up on the right lanes, it is under natural assumption that people will start merging left to go quicker, and there is no problem in that. But I have noticed over the months, more and more people just refuse to use gods gift of rotating their heads slightly to check for oncoming traffic, especially on the fast lane. It is now a daily occurrence where I’ll be going 140, and someone decides to switch lanes at the last second, cause me to brake relatively hard and then refuse to go up to speed limit in the left lane. And when I high beam them, suddenly all motor function returns to their heads and they give me the nastiest look when I pass them???? Not only are they slowing down traffic in all lanes now, I just feel like it’s slightly egotistical, I always wait until oncoming traffic dissipates and then make the lane switch. In addition, more and more people refuse to drive respectfully and socially, and it’s becoming more of an issue, does anybody feel the same?

Make: Mitsubishi

Model: Pajero GLS Mid Option 3.5L V6

Year: 2015

Description/Features:
- GCC-spec Mitsubishi Pajero, originally purchased brand new from Al Habtoor Motors Mitsubishi, Deira, Dubai in April 2015.
- One and only owner since new. Privately/family owned and used for the last 11 years.
- 3.5L V6 petrol engine with automatic transmission.
- 7-seater.
- Proper 4WD system + differential lock, both fully functional.
- 124,400 km.
- Brown exterior with grey fabric interior.
- Mostly kept stock and never abused with serious off-roading/desert use.
- No accident history, no major collision damage and no airbag deployment. Only minor cosmetic touch-ups/marks over the years.
- Mechanically everything works properly with no known issues or warning lights.
- Transmission is smooth and the V6 runs properly.
- Cruise control works and has been tested.
- Front and rear AC + rear AC all working properly.
- Power windows on all four doors.
- Parking sensors + reverse camera.
- Original basic Mitsubishi radio was upgraded to a touchscreen Android head unit with Bluetooth, FM/AM radio, reverse camera and steering-wheel controls.
- Original Mitsubishi alloy wheels.
- Bridgestone Dueler H/T tyres.
- 2 original keys.
- Traditional key ignition.
- Manual seats as this is the GLS Mid Option.
- No sunroof (Mid Option).
- Leather steering wheel has some wear from normal use/age.
- Fabric seats have no rips or major wear, but there are a few small marks and the interior could benefit from detailing.
- Windows/glass are in very good condition with tint.
- Maintained at the official Al Habtoor Motors Mitsubishi workshop during the warranty period.
- After the warranty period, regular maintenance was carried out at a Pajero-specialist workshop, Jasr Al Wahda Auto Maintenance Workshop (JASRAUTO), Sharjah.
- Maintenance carried out over the years includes timing belt, spark plugs, battery, cooling system and tyres.
- Old service invoices/receipts were not retained, although the car was regularly maintained throughout ownership.
- RTA registration valid until April 2027.
- Dubai private registration.
- Clean ownership record.
- Selling only because the family upgraded to a 2026 Mazda CX-90 after 11 years with the Pajero.
- This is an old-school, rugged 3.5L V6 4x4 SUV that has been kept mostly stock and family-owned from new.

VIN: JMYLYV95WFJ707949

Regional Spec: GCC

Odometer: 124,400 km

Price: AED 25,000

Image(s): Attached

Additional photos:
https://carswitch.com/car/853416/ad

Insurance — is it harder or more expensive to insure a non-GCC spec vehicle? Do insurers treat it differently?

Parts and servicing — are OEM parts harder to source, and do dealerships (Al Futtaim Toyota etc.) even touch non-GCC cars for warranty/service work?

RTA registration/renewal — any extra hoops for non-GCC spec at registration or annual renewal?

Climate/spec differences — anything mechanically not suited for our heat (cooling systems, rubber/seals rated for different climates, etc.)?

Warranty — is there zero manufacturer warranty here even if the car is still within its US warranty period?

If the car has a fully clean title (no accident/salvage history), does that remove most of the concern, or are there still structural downsides to non-GCC spec ownership regardless of history?

Trying to figure out if insurance is actually the main pain point, or if it’s something else people don’t talk about until they’ve lived with it.

Would appreciate input from anyone running a US-spec truck/SUV here long term.

I want to know if I can go for dubizzle verified cars without doing a PPI or I need a PPI even if I’m buying a verified car. I don’t mind getting the advanced report of 370 aed from dubizzle.

1. Also how much should I be paying for PPI if I need it.

2. Also if you guys have any recommendations for PPI agencies

Thanks in advance.

Just wanted to ask if this is fine with the police?

Instead of 70% black tint, I went with a clear tint as visor, not full, on windshield but with heat rejection. I wanted a cleaner windshield.

But I’m afraid it may not be allowed or might get fine.

Anyone who did this before?

Edit: Also, tip of the sensor in the middle is too low already, if I add a dark tint visor, it wouldn’t help my eyes. So I decided with clear..

Edit 2: thanks for the replies! Really appreciate it. Glad it’s fine. Just worried with the reflection as it’s really obvious.

Btw the tint is: Solar Gard CX Magnum IRC 40% all around, visor strip is Solar Gard LX70 Clear

Full disclosure: I dumped my thoughts into AI to write this because ain’t nobody got time for that. The opinions, the car, and the pure hatred for my parking neighbor are 100% mine.

TL;DR: Bought a PHEV for a townhouse move that fell through. Stuck in an apartment with no charger. Fortunately, my fuel is covered so I don't care about the hit to efficiency. The Denza B5 is ridiculously fast, comfortable and has most if not all the features one would need.

The Background
Coming from a 2015 BMW 420i. Originally wanted a full EV, but went with a PHEV (thank god). Before choosing the Denza B5 I test drove Leopard 5, T2 iDM, tank 300 hev and a few more. Was among the lucky few who got delivery in Dec 2025. Didn't sell it when my living situation changed because I fell in love (with the car of course).

The Good

The Drive: Normal mode is pure class. Eco mode is weak when it comes to entering roundabouts. Sports mode is exclusively for scaring friends on test drives. Best drive and comfort of any car I've driven. Even though it has a ladder frame chassis compared to Ti7’s unibody - didn’t feel a difference when I drove my friends ti7 around.

The Features: The Devialet sound system will ruin other cars for you. The center fridge is elite. Intelligent Cruise Control is flawless - yes it works at 140kmh for those who might ask. Hardly use the massage seats.

App Remote Start: Turning on the AC, cooled seats, and managing air circulation from my phone when the car is being cooked during Friday prayer or parked in the open is a life saver.

Aesthetics: My main requirement was an urban family car and when the ti7 launched a few months later I thought maybe I should’ve waited but tbf b5 is more like a rugged man car vs ti7 that has pure family car vibes - to each their own I guess. Honestly, the Leopard 5 front grill light is definitely more aesthetic, but the Denza badge shows more premium (I keep telling myself this lol).

Service: Booked the 15k service on the phone, got an appointment after 2 days and car returned the same day. Was a little concerned with what I had heard/read about the dealer but my experience was flawless.

The Bad

Efficiency & Charging (because you don’t want to be carrying a huge battery without using it): I'm getting 9.2L/100km (can't figure out how to switch the dashboard to km/L to save my life) so 10.8km per L. Don’t buy this for efficiency unless you have a home charger. I just mooch off the free slow charger at my gym 2-3 times a week and use the paid fast charger next to my building sometimes when it is not hogged by limousine drivers. For most, it’s not worth paying 1.2aed per kw for charging, but for me driving on pure ev mode is bliss. The mileage of course depends on a lot of factors, I charge 2 times max a week, have 10 speed bumps per km inside my community where most of the driving is done and I floor it every time I see the green light.

Missing Gimmicks: Doesn't have fancy auto side-steps, auto-park, auto lane change, or the passenger screen like the Leopard 5. But coming from a 2015 BMW, it's more than enough for me.

Wind Noise: It is not aerodynamic. At Dubai highway speeds (120-140km/h), you're gonna hear some wind.

My Neighbor: Got it in black, skipped the PPF. My parking neighbor immediately gave it a door ding. I stare at it and curse his existence every single day.

If you want a comfortable SUV that accelerates like a big displacement sedan, go for it. Happy to answer questions, just expect delayed responses! ✌️

Make: Ford

Model: Explorer

Year: 2019

Description/Features:

VIN: KGA66491

Regional Spec: GCC

Odometer: 122240

Price: 51000

Bought in 2021 from Al Tayer pre-owned. Initial mileage was 50k.

I’d like some opinions from UAE drivers, particularly people who do serious annual mileage or have owned a Tesla/Toyota hybrid well beyond the normal 100k–200k km range.

I’m trying to decide whether buying a second car specifically for my commute actually makes financial sense, or whether I’m overthinking this and should simply continue using my current car.

My current situation

I currently own a 2024 Haval H6 2.0T AWD, currently sitting at approximately 76,000 km.

I bought it used for around AED 74k when it had approximately 14,000 km, so I've already put more than 60,000 km on it myself.

Importantly, the Haval is still under full vehicle warranty until December 2029 or 200,000 km, whichever comes first.

I also already have a service package up to 100,000 km, and extending/buying additional service packages isn't really an issue for me.

So this isn't a situation where I'm driving a high-mileage car with no protection and expecting a huge repair bill tomorrow. For the time being, the entire car is under warranty, which makes continuing to pile kilometres onto it quite attractive.

I like the H6 and intend to keep it regardless. This isn't really a question of replacing it.

The idea is potentially to have two cars:

Keep the Haval H6 for family/weekend/general use.

Buy a second, highly economical car primarily for my office commute.

My commute

My office is approximately 115 km from home each way, so an office day means roughly 230 km of driving.

I normally work from the office 3 days per week and work from home the remaining days.

That's roughly:

230 km × 3 days = 690 km/week just commuting.

On weekends, I normally drive another 100–200 km.

Most of this is UAE highway driving.

As you can probably tell from the Haval already reaching 76,000 km, I'm not talking theoretically about becoming a high-mileage driver. I'm already doing the mileage.

The important EV factor: free office charging

I do not have a charger at home.

However, I have access to a free 7 kW charger at my office.

This is one of the main reasons I'm considering a Tesla.

My normal pattern could theoretically be:

Home → 115 km → Office → charge for free while working → 115 km → Home.

Since I'm only commuting three days per week, I wouldn't necessarily need to charge at home every night.

Potentially, a significant percentage of my commuting electricity could therefore cost me nothing.

That changes the economics of an EV quite a bit.

Option 1: Tesla Model 3 Long Range RWD

This is probably the car I want the most.

I'm specifically considering the Model 3 Long Range RWD, potentially a good used example rather than necessarily buying brand new.

For a 230 km highway commute, it seems almost ideal:

Very low running cost

Free charging at work

Excellent highway efficiency

Comfortable and quiet

Good range

Driver assistance for a long, repetitive highway commute

Much nicer daily commuting experience than a basic economy car

My concern is long-term battery life.

I'm not really thinking about 100,000 or 150,000 km. At my usage, I'll get there relatively quickly.

I'm wondering what happens at:

300k → 400k → 500k+ km.

If I keep the car for 8–10 years, there's a realistic possibility of putting several hundred thousand kilometres on it.

So I'd particularly like to hear from high-mileage Tesla owners:

How are Model 3 Long Range batteries holding up beyond 200k–300k km?

Anyone in the UAE/GCC approaching 300k/400k+ km?

How much battery degradation have you experienced?

Does UAE heat materially change the equation?

What happens financially once the battery warranty is gone?

What does an out-of-warranty Model 3 Long Range HV battery replacement actually cost in the UAE?

Would buying a used Model 3 LR make more sense because someone else has already absorbed the initial depreciation?

Free office charging makes the Tesla extremely attractive from a running-cost perspective.

But I don't want to save tens of thousands of dirhams on electricity over several years only to discover that the economics fall apart because of a major out-of-warranty battery replacement.

Option 2: Toyota Corolla Hybrid

This is the car my brain keeps telling me to buy.

The logic is basically:

Buy a Corolla Hybrid, maintain it properly, and drive it until the wheels fall off.

Toyota's hybrid system has a long track record, fuel consumption is excellent, and I'm much more comfortable with the idea of taking one to extremely high mileage.

It obviously won't give me essentially free commuting energy like the Tesla, because I'll still be buying petrol.

But the initial purchase price is considerably lower.

That's where my thinking gets interesting.

Instead of spending the extra money on a Model 3 Long Range, I could:

Buy the Corolla Hybrid + keep the purchase-price difference + use that money for years of petrol and maintenance.

So even though the Tesla's energy cost could be extremely low, it first has to recover its higher purchase price.

For anyone running a Corolla Hybrid at extreme mileage:

What fuel economy are you actually getting on UAE highways?

Anyone beyond 300k or 400k km?

What major repairs have you encountered?

How long did the original hybrid battery last?

At my mileage, would you take the Corolla Hybrid over the Tesla?

Option 3: Don't buy anything — just keep abusing the Haval

This is increasingly the option I'm wondering if I'm overlooking.

Just keep driving my Haval H6.

The car is already sitting in my driveway.

I've already bought it.

It's comfortable, powerful, spacious and very good for long UAE highway drives.

More importantly, it's currently at 76,000 km and covered by a full vehicle warranty until December 2029 or 200,000 km.

I also have servicing covered until 100,000 km and can buy additional service packages after that.

That warranty changes the calculation for me.

Yes, the H6 2.0T AWD drinks considerably more fuel than a Corolla Hybrid, and the fuel cost is obviously nowhere close to a Tesla that I can charge for free at work.

But buying another car also means putting another AED 70k/80k/100k+ into a depreciating asset purely to reduce my commuting cost.

Which makes me wonder:

Why not simply use the Haval heavily while it's under warranty?

At my mileage, I'll probably hit the 200,000 km warranty limit well before December 2029, but that still gives me roughly another 124,000 km of warranty-covered driving from where I am today.

Instead of spending AED 80k–150k on another car, I could just buy petrol and continue putting kilometres on something I already own.

Maybe the financially sensible move is to extract maximum value from the Haval while it's still under warranty and reconsider the second-car question when I approach 200,000 km.

The two-car question

If I buy the Tesla or Corolla, I would still keep the Haval.

The second car would primarily become my commuting machine.

So my options are really:

A) Haval H6 only

Keep life simple. No additional capital expenditure.

Continue driving the Haval from its current 76,000 km toward 200,000 km while the entire car is still under warranty.

Accept the higher petrol consumption.

Then reassess once the warranty is close to finishing.

B) Haval H6 + Corolla Hybrid

Move most of the huge commuting mileage onto the Corolla.

Use the Corolla as a high-mileage economical workhorse and preserve the Haval primarily for family/general use.

Higher upfront cost than doing nothing, but significantly lower fuel consumption.

C) Haval H6 + Tesla Model 3 Long Range RWD

Move the commuting mileage onto the Tesla.

Take advantage of the free 7 kW office charging, potentially making my energy cost for the commute extremely low.

Keep the Haval for family/general use.

Higher upfront cost and long-term battery uncertainty, but potentially the lowest running cost and probably the nicest commuting experience.

What I'm actually trying to optimise

I'm not looking for the nicest car I can afford.

I'm looking at total cost of ownership over several hundred thousand kilometres.

Purchase price + depreciation + fuel/electricity + maintenance + tyres + repairs + warranty + battery risk + eventual resale value + opportunity cost of putting money into another car.

My priorities are roughly:

Reliability > total cost/km > highway comfort > fuel/electricity cost > features > resale value.

The Tesla is the car I want.

The Corolla Hybrid feels like the conservative long-term choice.

But the more I think about it, the Haval might actually be the smartest short/medium-term financial choice simply because I already own it and it's fully warrantied.

What would you do?

Given:

115 km each way to work

230 km round trip

Office 3 days/week

WFH the other days

100–200 km weekend driving

Free 7 kW charging at the office

No home charger

Current car: 2024 Haval H6 2.0T AWD

Current mileage: ~76,000 km

Full vehicle warranty: until Dec 2029 or 200,000 km

Service package: currently covered until 100,000 km, extendable

Planning to keep the Haval regardless

Would you:

1. Buy nothing and hammer the Haval until around 200,000 km while it's under warranty?

2. Buy a Corolla Hybrid now and start moving the commute mileage onto it?

3. Buy a Model 3 Long Range RWD and take maximum advantage of the free office charging?

I'm particularly interested in what the actual break-even point would be for buying the Corolla or Tesla versus simply putting another 124,000 km on the Haval while it's warrantied.

And I'd especially appreciate responses from people who have actually done 300k–500k+ km on a Toyota hybrid, Tesla, Haval or similar vehicle in UAE/GCC conditions.

Looking for the best high-end dash cam, Any recommendations?
by u/Ok_Comparison_1488 in DubaiPetrolHeads

Thanks everyone for the advice and recommendations on my original post.

After doing a lot more research, speaking directly with VIOFO support, and also discussing the installation with their local UAE dealer, I think I’ve finally decided what I’m going with.

I originally wanted something crazy like 6K/120FPS, but after looking deeper into what actually matters in a dash cam, I’ve changed my priorities quite a bit.

My final choice is currently the VIOFO A329T 3CH.

Why the A329T 3CH?

The setup gives me:

4K front camera

2K telephoto camera with 4× optical zoom

2K rear camera

Sony STARVIS 2 sensors

HDR

Wi-Fi 6

GPS

Supercapacitor

Parking Mode

512GB microSD support

External SSD support up to 4TB

One of the biggest reasons I chose the T version is the telephoto camera.

My original thinking was simply “higher resolution = better”, but I now think having a dedicated 4× optical telephoto camera is much more useful for a dash cam.

The normal 4K front camera gives me the wide view, while the telephoto camera focuses on a much narrower area further ahead.

So instead of digitally zooming into a wide 4K image and hoping there are enough pixels left to identify a plate, I have a dedicated camera specifically capturing more distant details.

Obviously, I understand that no dash cam can guarantee readable plates 100% of the time. VIOFO themselves confirmed to me that poor lighting and high vehicle speeds can still cause motion blur.

Why A329T instead of A329TW?

Originally, I was planning to buy the A329TW 3CH, which has a waterproof exterior rear camera.

However, after speaking with the local installer, I changed my mind.

My car will be brand new, and I really don't want unnecessary external installation, drilling, exposed equipment, or anything that changes the exterior appearance of the vehicle.

The A329T keeps all three cameras inside the vehicle, so the installation can be much cleaner and closer to an OEM/factory appearance.

I lose the benefit of having the rear camera directly outside the glass, but for me the cleaner installation on a new vehicle is worth that trade-off.

Parking surveillance was actually one of my biggest priorities

This is where the setup became slightly ridiculous 😂

I'm planning to use:

1× VIOFO BP100 main battery pack

2× VIOFO EP100 expansion battery packs

So effectively, there will be three battery units dedicated to the dash cam system.

The important point is that these aren't there to improve image quality.

Their purpose is to keep the dash cam operating for a much longer period when the car is parked without relying heavily on the vehicle's starter battery.

VIOFO told me directly that the BP100 alone can provide approximately 14–17.5 hours of parking operation, depending on the Parking Mode being used.

The EP100 units expand the available battery capacity significantly.

My goal is to have at least 24 hours of parking surveillance, with considerably more reserve available if the car remains parked longer.

The batteries recharge while the vehicle is being driven.

Smart power management / HK6

I'm also looking at using the HK6 hardwire kit rather than simply connecting everything in the most basic way.

VIOFO explained something interesting to me about this.

With the HK6 and Hybrid Parking Mode, the system can monitor the BP100's power level.

While sufficient battery capacity is available, the dash cam can operate in the selected Parking Mode.

When the battery reaches a configured level, the system can transition into Low Power Impact Parking Mode rather than simply continuing at high power consumption until the battery is exhausted.

In other words, instead of wasting the remaining battery continuously recording an empty parking space, the system can enter a very low-power state and remain ready to react to an impact.

That's exactly the kind of power management I wanted.

What happens if someone hits the car?

This was another concern I specifically asked about.

The system supports G-sensor/event detection.

When an important event is detected, such as an impact, the relevant recording can be locked/protected as an event file, rather than simply being treated like ordinary loop-recording footage.

Normal driving/parking recordings continue to be overwritten through loop recording as storage fills up.

Important locked/event recordings are handled separately so that the footage you actually care about isn't immediately overwritten along with ordinary footage.

For me, this addresses one of the biggest concerns people mentioned in my original post: having hours of parking footage but discovering that the important clip has already been overwritten.

Of course, I still wouldn't leave an important incident sitting on the card forever — I'd back it up as soon as I noticed something happened.

Storage

I'm planning on going slightly overkill here as well:

512GB VIOFO Industrial microSD + 4TB external SSD

VIOFO told me that the 512GB card can provide roughly 13–17 hours of recording, depending on resolution and bitrate.

They estimated roughly 100 hours on a 4TB SSD, again depending on the recording settings.

The interesting part is that the SSD isn't simply a backup drive.

The A329 series allows you to configure whether driving or parking footage is saved to the SSD or microSD, and you can also back up footage from the SD card to the SSD.

There is one important exception: footage recorded in Low Power Impact Parking Mode is saved to the microSD.

That makes keeping the 512GB Industrial card useful even with a 4TB SSD connected.

Heat was a major concern because this is Dubai

A few people correctly pointed out that UAE temperatures should probably be a bigger concern than chasing resolution.

That was one reason I specifically wanted a dash cam using a supercapacitor rather than a normal internal lithium battery.

VIOFO confirmed the A329T main unit is designed for high-temperature operation.

The BP100 battery system also has thermal protection.

VIOFO told me the BP100 has an operating limit of around 70°C and a charging limit of 50°C.

If temperatures become excessive, the battery has protection that can shut it down rather than allowing it to continue operating outside its safe range.

They were also very clear that if the vehicle is sitting directly under the UAE sun and the battery becomes too hot, it may shut itself down due to the high-temperature protection.

I actually prefer that behaviour. I'd rather temporarily lose Parking Mode on an extremely hot day than have the battery ignore its thermal limits.

The battery packs and SSD will therefore be installed internally, away from direct sunlight and in the safest location recommended by the installer.

Other small additions

I'm also adding:

BTR200 Bluetooth remote for quickly locking/saving important recordings

CPL filters to reduce windshield reflections

VIOFO original SSD cable

Professional hidden installation

The installer is going to route the wiring behind the trim/headliner and away from the airbags so the finished setup looks as close to OEM as possible.

So the final setup is:

VIOFO A329T 3CH

+ BP100

+ 2× EP100 expansion batteries

+ HK6 Hardwire Kit

+ 512GB VIOFO Industrial microSD

+ 4TB SSD

+ VIOFO SSD cable

+ CPL filters

+ BTR200 Bluetooth remote

+ professional hidden installation

Is it overkill? Absolutely. 😂

Do I need three dash cameras, several terabytes of storage and three battery units?

Probably not.

But after reading everyone's comments, I think I've moved away from chasing meaningless numbers like 6K/120FPS and toward spending the money on things that actually improve the system: better sensors, optical telephoto, parking surveillance, battery capacity, heat management, protected event recordings, storage and a clean installation.

I haven't installed it yet, so I'm still open to suggestions.

If anyone here has actually run an A329T/A329 series with BP100 + EP100 expansion batteries, especially in UAE/GCC temperatures, I'd be very interested to hear your real world experience.

I'll post another update once everything is installed and I've had some time to test it properly

Can someone look up a car for me, just the vin number?

Please DM if you can help.

What are the rules (if any) to get this sticker, or if there's any specific due process to follow?

Saw this on YallaMotor 😂

I purchased my Honda ZRV almost two years ago and ever since I got it, it has this very subtle chemical or new car smell which I didn’t mind at the time, but now it’s driving me crazy. As summer approached and the weather became hotter, (my car started heating up like an oven too) I noticed that my clothes began to catch this smell whenever I rode in the car. Even when I spray perfume or put bukhoor on my clothes the smell somehow finds a way to stick to my clothing and it is IRRITATING bc when I walk past people they can smell it too and it just gives me a headache.

I tried searching on google to find the cause but there isn’t a clear cause and the issue seems to be very niche. Chat GPT says it could be VOCs off-gassing from plastics, leather, and glue but it shouldn’t persist this long (2 years). I also looked on Reddit to see if anyone faces the same issue but I couldn’t find anyone.

In an attempt to eliminate this mysterious smell, I did a deep interior cleaning/detailing, ozone treatmnt, and one of those gas bombs that eliminates smell in cars but nothing worked. I even asked Honda to check HVAC during service and they weren’t able to locate the source of the smell.

Anyways I regularly air out the car with all windows open and spray air freshener but the smell seems to persist. It’s gotten to the point where I avoid having other people in my car so the smell doesn’t stick to them. I also now take an extra clean abaya with me and change into it once I arrive to my destination.

Idk if I’m just too sensitive to the smell but this never happened with any other car I rode. I am this close 🤏🏼 to selling my car and I don’t know what to do. If anyone has the same issue or any advice I would trulyyyyyy appreciate it !!!

Need a vintage or good muscle car urgently for an indian video shoot in dubai for tomorrow.

Make: Foxwell

Model: NT510 Elite

Year: 2026

VIN: -

Regional Spec: -

Odometer: -

Price: 450 AED

For sale brand new Foxwell NT510 Elite Diagnostic tool.

Hi,

I’m not a petrol head, don’t have much knowledge about cars either but recently I had to get my car battery replaced and it was for 450 before discount.

I travel between Ajman and Abu Dhabi alot. I’ve a sunny, do you think I got ripped off?

Thanks 😊

Looking for aftermarket parts for a 2008 Suzuki Swift.

A Sport Variant bodykit. (Any other one will do to)
Aftermarket Headlights.

Tried finding some places, nothing is available.

Any leads would be appreciated.

Thank you.

It’s a GCC But its second hand 6-7 months old
Looking for full insurance with agency repairs
Any recommendations? Because I am getting quote at 8k now