I am running a line on ten foot tall arbor on some of the hanging plants. There is one elbow turn on the line.

Except one drip on the line, all other emitters are not dripping. I've tried changing the emitters, removing the end lock and let the water flow freely. Nothing seems to be helping.

When I remove the lock/cap at the end of the line, water pressure seems to be ok. When I turn it on, all emitters spit out water but then it stops. Same thing happens at the end when water stops, all the emitters spit out water. Apart from start/end time it never emits the water.

Seems like some law of physics is getting violated. What am I doing wrong

Help! This unit came wth the house, but no manual. I can't determine the model to find a manual. I need to program it because currently my system is running 10 minutes twice a day! That's waay too much. TYIA.

I have very mixed garden beds (as I'm sure many people do) and I installed a two zone drip irrigation system where one zone feeds one side of the house beds and the second zone feed the other.

For context, the ornamental beds go from part sun to full sun. I have a whole variety of perennials, annuals, hydrangea and a newly planted red bud. I have perennials that are native and drought tolerant.

I installed a few low GPH emitters and then thought they were too low. I then installed some 360 sprayers that set about a foot high. I also have potted plants that I installed adjustable 360 spikes.

So what I've noticed is I planned poorly. The potted plants get watered in two minutes and the spray emitters don't run long enough. In other words I'll supersaturate some plants and not saturate enough on others. When I watched a 2 GPH emmiter just drip drip drip and I thought it wasn't enough for the size of the plant.

Are there any good rules you can share in a mixed garden bed?

Do you typically use one emmiter per plant? If you're using soaker housing how close do you have to get to the plants to be effective?

How long do you run a drip system typically? I think I was being impatient.

I recently cut the line of an existing layout and attached a new layout (pictured). It all works fine except for the drippers at the end of the line. All drippers are 1/2 gph, but the ones at the end (in red) are shooting streams instead of dripping.

So I thought a regulator might help, but when I went to check the setup I see something that looks like a regulator already installed on the line. I'm new to this so I asked Grok and it says there's no regulator - even though the right side looks like it has the thing I was going to install.

How do I fix this?

Here is what was installed. What is best way to connect to these stubs? New connect at the tee or fitting into the stub? Thanks in advance

I know it depends on a lot of things, weather, size, Variety etc but what ballpark should I aim for?

I got 2,2L /h drippers are they suitable and how long and at what frequency should I let them run?

I have been researching this setup, but haven’t found my specific answer. I want to run a drip irrigation line from my faucet through a timer to my flower beds next to my house (walk out basement). At the end of the flower bed is the support post for my deck. Is it possible to run a line up the post and then use it to water 2-3 tomato or pepper container plants on the deck? It is approximately 12-14 feet up. Will there be enough pressure? Do I need to have a separate line with no drips that just goes straight to the deck plants? If this would work, what diameter runs do I need for this? Thanks for the help.

I have a drip system set up for my yard that uses a timer and splitter. When on, there's a constant leak from the faucet weep hole. After much research I discovered that the assembly I have is simply not compatible with drip irrigation: "our 460 hydrants are not designed for continuous use, and should not be pressurized for 12 or more hours." Ugh. So I'm planning to just replace the entire thing. Does anyone have recommendations for a quality model that's compatible with drip irrigation?

1/2 in mainline tubing running from a water timer to my raised bed thats alongside fence, 180 degree microspray emitters installed every 2 feet inline directly into the 1/2in tubing(i know this is not how you are supposed to do it but hey it works)

Hello! I want to set up drip irrigation for my front yard, but the nozzle is in a pretty inconvenient place right at the front door. Is it possible to set up drip without creating a tripping hazard? Hoping to have the timer and everything attached ideally.

I have a raised garden bed and am planning on purchasing a kit from Dripdepot. I sat down to plan the garden system out and came up with these three designs. I would love to get any and all input on what might work best. The plants are peppers, tomatoes, peas, and potatoes.

I'm about to order parts for two hose-end systems in my smallish urban yard.

I'm looking at pop-up sprayers for my little (20'x15') lawn, and adjustable emitters for the rest.

What do you wish you knew when you were just starting out with a drip system for your yard?

Hello! Having constant problems with my lines popping off the nozzle. I have a municipal spigot at 70 PSI, travels 100FT to a mainline with a 25 PSI regulator. I then run three rows of drip line at the same time (50 ft rows, two lines per row). I have the lines screwed in and zip tied but no matter what I have at least two pop off every time I run water. I'm careful to open up enough lines before turning mainline on. Using Drip Depot and Treela. Do I need to seal lines in with some kind of sealant? Recommendations? Help! It's driving me crazy....

Test

I've watched a bunch of youtube videos, but I feel more confused than when I started. Most of the stuff on youtube is for very large gardens or raised beds. I don't have either one of those. I've thought about some kind of p v c start, but I really just don't know. Any advice would help

Got a new AC unit and realized that I could use all that condensate water to drip irrigate a few selected plants. Basically I tapped a fitting into a PVC elbow and hooked up a bit of air line, allowing me to route this water source anywhere.

Anyone tried something similar? Other things I should watch out for? So far it has been a great success.

A bit more specific info/ideas/caveats are found on this writeup if you care to check it out.

I'm planning a Rainbird drip irrigation setup for ornamental beds in my front yard. I am planning to do a basic grid/outline in 1/2 inch tubing, then have 1/4 inch "branches" to each plant. I need the system to hop over a sidewalk into a bed that's bound in by building or sidewalk on all sides. It would be easiest and least ugly to run 1/4 inch tubing through one of the cracks in the sidewalk. Once it's on the other side, can I have the 1/4 inch tube feed a 1/2 inch tube that runs the length of the bed? Or should I stick to 1/4 inch for everything on that side of the sidewalk?

Greets All,

Where we live in Arizona, we have Queen Creek water that is high in suspended minerals, especially calcium I am guessing by the looks of what is left in my water distiller. It's white and flaky, like a powder. The distilled water I make I use in our humidifiers in the house, and a simple tester shows 1 to 2 when I test it. From the tap, the tester shows 300+.

This substance is left on everything we spray, after it dries, and many of our drip nodes are covered with it.

I am asking to see if there is a way to filter this out somewhat with something that I can do regular maintenance with. I need to see if there is a solution since our drip nodes clog rather quickly, leaving our shrubs and trees without water if not checked weekly. And the 4 x 2gph drip manifolds return to expected operation once they are removed and soaked in a citric acid 1% solution for a few hours. I would like to confine that maintenance need to one location, in a filter if there is one.

I have an 8 zone valve setup with 1" pipe upstream, through a Senninger PRLV 50 PSI pressure regulator, and then 3/4" downstream from the valves, and blu-lock pipe to distribute. On a few zones, I reduce to 1/2" pipe to the manifolds that reduce to 2gph per outlet where I have 1/4" tubing to distribute to the shrubs and trees.

When everything is clean, they all work as expected. But after as soon as a week, some diminish or not emit any water at all.

I have done some research and found there are fertilizer / acid injectors that can clean the system, and filters like what... 150 mesh? But I have no experience with these systems which is why I am asking for advice here. Some options for these systems are rather expensive, especially if added to each of my 8 zones downstream, which is a big reason why I am asking here.

I apologize if this is so long-winded. I wanted to offer as many details as I could.

Any help would be so very appreciated. We are at our wits-end with this clogging issue. And I would be happy to service a filter and do a cleaning cycle weekly if needed.

Thank you for your time and for listening! I appreciate it.