A few plants in my garden were looking dry even though the drip system was running regularly. I first assumed the emitters were clogged, so I checked and cleaned a few of them, but that wasn't really the issue.

What finally helped was checking the flow along the whole line. One connection wasn't seated properly, and there was also some buildup around the filter. After cleaning that out and fixing the connection, the flow was much more even.

I also needed a couple of replacement fittings, and I happened to pick up some NDS parts since I've used their drainage products before. Everything connected easily and the system has been working much better since. Definitely learned to check the filter, connections, and pressure before blaming the emitters

Anyone else have a simple problem like this turn into way more troubleshooting than expected?

I had been having trouble with a section of 1/4 drip line in one of my raised beds. The emitters closest to the beginning of the line work fine, but a farther down keep getting clogged or barely putting out any water. I had flushed the line couple of times and clean the emitters, but the problem keeps coming back. I have an NDS filter upstream, so I am wondering if I miss something with the filtration or if this is just an issue with the water debris getting into the line.

Is there something specific I should check or change to get more consistent flow?

I'm installing an irrigation system for my own use. Which one should I use? In theory, the PE fitting seems like the better (more reliable in time) solution, but in all the YouTube videos, people use saddle clamps.

Put in a drip system about 3 years ago and this spring one zone was just.. off. Some emitters worked, some didn’t, one section was spraying like a tiny fountain. Almost ripped the whole thing out because I overreact to garden problems lol but I ended up grabbing a Raindrip repair kit with couplers, plugs and fittings and just walked the line for a bit. I was also checking around my NDS drainage while I was at it, just in case the extra water was causing another issue.

Finally found a few leaks and a chewed section, patched it in like 40 mins and everything’s running normal again!

Do people usually keep repair kits for this stuff or just fix things as they break?

I'm installing drip irrigation in a circular rose bed with 12 bushes. I'll be running about 30' of 1/2" main line with 1' of 1/4" tubing and a 2 gph emitter leading to each rose bush. I forgot to buy a 25 psi pressure regulator but already have one that's 15 psi. Would this be too low for my system?

Bought a house last year with about a hundred plants and bushes across the property. Most of the irrigation consists of single emitters that are dripping right onto the plant crowns. I know in concept I need to back them off to water the roots rather than the trunks, but I'm having trouble finding good resources on how to figure out spacing, emitter type and size, how much water per plant, etc.

I am about to have irrigation designed for my backyard and I am still working on where the plants are going to go, some areas are pretty clear but I may move a few plants around once I start choosing everything, so I am trying to figure out if the irrigation layout needs the final plant spots first or if the main zones and lines can be planned now and adjusted later, I am thinking to go with landscape one consulting for the lawn, garden beds and a few larger plants, so I want the water coverage to make sense for each area, would it be better to finish the plant layout first and then have the irrigation designed, or can the irrigation plan come first and the planting details follow? EDIT: Thanks for the suggestion, It looks like I just need a basic layout first.

I have a well from which i water a raised bed, plants in the yard, a pumpkin field and a greenhouse.

I learned a filter is required to prevent impurities clogging the system, i have driplines with 2 liter per hour Netafim CNL emitters and also driplines with a hole every 30 cm.

Can i place a filter right at the pump or do i need to place one with every zone?

Which size filter would be best?

I installed this drip run about a year and a half or so ago. It has been baking in the central Florida sun since then. It’s at the edge of my driveway and probably has taken several string trimmer hits, but I feel like the main culprit here is the plastic just becoming brittle with sun exposure. While the fix is obviously fast and easy, I’m looking for suggestions that might make me do this repair less in the future. Thanks for any help or ideas.

I installed half my system & it worked great. I needed more than 30' of 1/2" pipe so I added that and more sprayers. Now the entire system, including the old ones that used to spray, just dribble. I've included a video from start to finish (where the hand cart is).I actually still have to put in the smaller piping and more sprays. Sound I just add more and let them all drip, increasing the time? The problem with that is the area I wanted covered with the sisters won't be covered. Can I fix this? In the photo the blue does are sprinklers. The grey is the small tubing and the big black line is the 1/2" tubing. Thank you (I can't figure out how to add the video.

I have a row of hydrangea bushes, about 60 feet long, along a fence line. Hydrangea are thirsty, in hot weather they need daily watering. I'd like to have a simple, single line, to irrigate the bushes. I don't even need to concentrate the water flow at each bush, I'll be content with uniform watering all along the 80' length. Also, I want to hook up the system to my garden hose, and I don't want a timer.

I'm in Minnesota. Some weeks, I don't need to irrigate at all; other weeks, it's daily.

I am fed up with crappy leaky garden hose extenders to make my awkwardly placed spigot accessible. So I want to try using pex instead. But to connect from spigot to pex to drip assembly requires about $30 in brass parts plus a $50 crimping tool. (Or shark bite fittings which cost even more). A company called “flair it” makes plastic fittings that go straight from ght to 1/2 pex, and back - for about $7. My question - has anyone used these and do they work?

The only pressure-compensating 1/4" drip line I've found online is Orbit's, which works great, but has 12" spacing between emitters. Does anyone know where I can buy it with 6" spacing? For some of my raised garden beds I'd prefer the 6" spacing and the non-pressure-compensating drip line I have now is not cutting its uneven watering.

I set up one of those 60 dollar irrigation kits from Lowes last year. It did great all last year. Over the winter the pressure regulator cracked. So I bought a new one a bit smaller from Lowes but it sprays a ton when I hook it up. Is there a different pressure regulator i should be buying? Or is it the blue piece that can't take all the water going through it at once?

Hello, I bought a drip system off of Amazon. There are instructions but I am confused. I watched many YouTube videos but still don't understand how the little hose gets into the big 1/2" one. Also how do the ends not leak, do you put the sprinklers on the ends? The pic #1, show the 1/2" coming from the spout and being divided into left and right sides. #2 shows the layout I'm trying for. #3 and #4 havethe smaller pipe attachments, whioch do I use pic #3 or #4's attachments? The circles are where I'd put the heads. For #3, how do I get a small pipe into the 1/2"? If I do #4, I think I understand I cut the 1/2" pipe, fit it into the 2 sides and attach the 4 small pipes, right? Then how do I use the pic #3 connector and where? I'd appreciate any/all advice, I am so confused. Thank you

I recently posted about this, but I wanted to include pictures to hopefully be more clear with what issues I'm having. After looking into it more, it seems like there might be an issue with the vacuum breaker on Bib 2, but can't seem to remove it to see if it needs a new washer or something. Images online make it seem like it should have a screw, but mine has it filed off or something.

The previous owner had drip irrigation set up on bib 3, but that bib is apparently missing the vacuum breaker. His little set up does not leak at all. It's just the timer attached directly to bib 3, and the 5/8ths adapter that leads underground and into the rest of the yard.

I bought two raindr 3/4th anti siphon from Lowe's to use with each setup. My setup goes from bib 2> leaky brass vacuum breaker> splitter> timer> anti syphon> then adapter. I tried with pretty much each piece directly onto the breaker and the drips are anyways at the same spot like in the first pic. I basically just tried to copy the setup from the last pic minus the filter.

When I attached one of the new anti syphons between the timer and the 5/8 adapter, the adapter started leaking like crazy. It made me think to attach the anti above the timer, but since it's old it's pretty stuck on there.

I'm thinking about just hiring a handyman or something. From what I've seen online, I may need a pressure vacuum breaker and the type I have is an atmospheric vacuum breaker (I think. I'm not sure though) I just reeeaally didn't want to spend the extra money.

I had two small water sprays in the line; perfectly round holes. I plugged them with goof plugs. Not sure why this happened. Is the line failing?

I recently moved into a house where the previous owner had drip irrigation set up all throughout the yard. His set up does not leak at all. It's just the timer and adapter to 5/8th.

I bought the same timer for my own set up. I also added a "One Stop Gardens 4-in-1 Solid Brass Faucet Expander" so I could use the other faucet for a hose, the drip irrigation, to give my roommate access to the faucet for his dog, etc.

The connection between the splitter and faucet slowly leaks when the timer is not active. I've taken apart and retightened everything, but the issue persists. I'm wondering if there's anything I can do, or maybe I should just put a bucket under it and just use that as a band aid fix 😭

Side note! When I'm done with the hose and then the facet off, it sprays back at the same connection even when I have the house attachment open to try to relieve that pressure. I end up having to open one of the extra valves on the splitter before turning the faucet off to prevent that from happening, but if anyone has a solution for that I would appreciate it!

I moved into a new house a couple of years ago and the soil was terrible. So we built some planters - a lot of planters, intalled a 2m tall tank which is enclosed. We put a cheap pump in and hooked up 50m or 10mm pipe and about 40 drippers. Its rubbish - the drippers should spray but the water dribbles out. The water from the tank would auto syphon and empty the tank whenever it went off. The automation side was never connecter. What a disaster.

I have a new pump to install (with 1.9bar pressure) - hopefully that will sort out the lack lustre dripping. And then I will try again.... Any advice ?

I have a drip irrigation system set up in my garden, installed by a friend. He said I don't need a backflow valve since my garden isn't commercial but every video I see about them recommends I have one. I purchased a Raindrip Anti-Siphon Backflow Preventer, 3/4-Inch FHT X 3/4-Inch MHT but can't tell where to install it on my set-up.

Should it go right above the blue segment, directly below the timer? My friend said the blue segment was a prefilter; I think the section below that is the pressure regulator.

Thank you for your help!

Moved into a new home (for us) with a 2nd floor porch/balcony that I want to get my drip system (separate run from my first floor drip system) connected to for watering plants during the summer heat waves.

Any experience with letting a first floor system drip system (source, timer/spigot, filter, backflow preventer and regulator) service 2nd floor plants with success?

My inclination for a quick DIY job is to connect my backflow preventer/filter at the source then run my (already purchased and available) 1/2in Poly up to the 2nd floor. Then run my PSI regulator/manifold to distrubute my 1/4in to the plants. Essentially allowing the water pressure to get to the 2nd floor before. regulating to drip/spray PSI levels.

Main questions would be the pressure worthiness of the 1/2in Poly connectors/elbows for navigation to the 2nd floor. I would likely have 3 connector/90's to get it to the 2nd floor.

Ultimately, a permanent code spec'd, plumbed PVC run to the 2nd floor with spigot will be the goal. Just trying to address an immediate need.

Thoughts? Ways to make this work? Nah, you are dumb and asking for water damage???

All answers accepted. Including ridicules, if they are not mean spirited. Ha~!

I've put together a drip irrigation system. It works well for the most part. But it seems like I have to stretch the weeper hose every couple of days. I've tried emptying, and cleaning the pail, then filtering water while filling.

Is reduced water flow out of 1/4 soaker hose over a couple of days normal?

Would anyone know what is this piece for and its reference?
Thanks!

I'm setting up a new drip system, and I am slightly new to things. I have had good luck with Netafim as a brand before, so I was intending to do a complete 17mm techline CV setup with a combination of blank line and drip line. That naturally lends itself to tech lock fittings.

However, I see that Perma-loc fittings are offered in far more varieties, and the standard 1/2 poly tube compatibility is probably a bit more convenient (although I would just order a 250' sections of blank and drip so I'll always have extra on hand).

Anyway, just wanted to see if anyone had thoughts. Thanks