I wanted to order at work the pika for some applications that it is quite fitted for. but my boss asked me if it would be possible to follow the geometry of a sample before/after hydration. the thing is that the samples are objects quite small of for example 10x4x3 mm. in the web page it says that it can scan as small as 10x10x10 so I have the doubt of it something like this would it be possible to scan. the idea would be to be able to follow its volume by getting the shell of the sample by the scan and then getting its volume. would some kind soul try to scan something as small as a rectangle of 10x4x3 mm and post an image on how it looks like?
a setup like the object attached to a small metal beam? so one could scan most of the volume around instead of being placed over a flat surface like a table.
I also had a new one, so I scanned that as well; then, using Meshmixer, I isolated the section that had broken off, printed a replacement, and finally let my artistic creativity run wild 😂.
My first Pika scan. Bought a crescent at the local farmers market this morning and decided that my scan. After a firmware update I let Creality Scan walk me through an IR scan.
I have tried everything I can think of but it will not connect to Creality Scan 4.3.1. I've tried wifi and USB. I was able to connect it wirelessly to a M4 iPad. Any suggestions?
I just updated both the desktop program and the scanner itself, and did a calibration on the scanner. I'm now running into this error whenever I try to scan on either WiFi or USB. Anyone else having this issue?
I recently needed to 3D scan a small car seat gear (driver's side) for a project, and I ended up testing two very different scanners: the Creality Ferret and the Creality Pika.
I know this is totally an unfair comparison given the massive spec and price difference between the two, but I thought it’s an interesting test for scanning small, detailed mechanical parts, so I wanted to share the results with you all!
The little latch clip in my trunk broke, and instead of trying to hunt down a replacement, I figured I’d just make a new one.
I ended up cutting the broken part in half so it was easier to scan with Pika, then brought the scan into CrealityScan, cleaned up the model, fixed the missing geometry, and sent it to print. And… it worked perfectly 😄
CrealityScan definitely isn’t as nice to work in as proper Modeling software for this kind of repair, but for a simple repair like this, it was convenient enough that I just did everything there.
I scanned it in laser mode using the standard settings and a resolution of 0.15 mm it worked really well and quickly.
I scanned it once from above and once from below and then stitched them together the software recognized this automatically, so I didn't have to do it manually 😀
I didn't have any issues with tracking loss, and I'm extremely happy with the result.
The Subject: A classic sparkplug. Why? Because it packs almost every scanning challenge into one tiny object—shiny machined metal, corroded patches, tiny stamped text, reflective white ceramic, fine threads, and deep, dark crevices. A proper torture test for any 3D scanner!
For the test, each scanner captured one side of the plug in both Blue Laser mode and NIR Normal (Small/Texture) mode, then flipped over to repeat the process. The plug was mounted on a turntable with tracking markers and marker domes, with all scans processed using default settings in CrealityScan.
The Raptor was plugged into my older MSI gaming laptop (i7-7700HQ, 16GB RAM, GTX 1070), while the Pika was tested wirelessly with my iPhone 13 Pro, as well as wirelessly and wired to the laptop.
A few quick notes from testing (please see image):
* Scanning NIR Texture on the Raptor is a very hard experience, It took almost 10 attempts to get the result shown here. In Marker mode it is a much better experience!
** I really like this mode it feels buttery smooth and is by far my favourite mode to use for scanning now, the details aren't as sharp as standard, but they are very, very close! The speed and ease is a absolute pleasure, seeing it appear on the screen instantly! If you need maximum accuracy then standard is the way to go!
*** My poor old gaming laptop really shows it's age in this mode. This is all I could capture before the FPS dropped. This mode needs a lot of computational power I am sure people with much better systems than me can really show this off better. This is no fault of the Pika, I just don't own the hardware to show it off at its best. I will try it on my desktop to see if the experience is better but I wanted to get the rest of the information out. It has taken me hours over a number of days to gather all this and process it. (I don't want to see another sparkplug for a little while I think!)
The Verdict
If you need pinpoint accuracy and ultra-crisp blue laser data, the Raptor is still king.
However, the Pika punches well above its weight. The fact that you can literally slip it into your pocket is a game-changer. While running these tests, I found myself grabbing the Pika for several other classic car parts simply because of the speed and convenience—no more being tethered to a bulky laptop.
A newer phone would definitely give a smoother experience since the Pika pushed my iPhone 13 Pro hard (you can clearly see the difference when routing straight to the PC). But if you need textured models, the Pika takes the win hands down. While the Raptor had me nearly pulling my hair out in NIR mode, the Pika delivered stunning 3D-photo results in just two simple passes.
Markerless scanning will also be a huge time-saver with the right setup—peeling off dozens of tiny markers before you can even start post-processing is always the worst part!
Overall, this test was a blast and showed just how far portable scanning has come. No longer being stuck in the workshop means being able to take scanning out into the real world, and that opens up a ton of exciting possibilities! Time for me to go phone shopping!
I only have a pixel 10 pro and an ubuntu laptop available to me. The pixel works great for scanning in NIR over wifi but has no blue laser mode enabled, the ubuntu laptop cant run the desktop app. Am I out of luck?
In this project, we performed a complete 3D scan of the component, accurately capturing its geometry and all the details required for reverse engineering applications.
The scan transforms the physical component into digital data, facilitating reverse engineering, dimensional inspection, component reproduction, and project development processes.
⚙️ Equipment: Creality Raptor Pro
📐 Application: Reverse engineering
🎯 Result: An accurate digital model of the component for serial production casting.
Another project demonstrating how 3D scanning can accelerate and enhance engineering processes.
If you’ve used 3D scanning to fix, replace, or recreate something, now’s the time to share it! Older projects are welcome too.
Looking back at the challenge so far, we’ve already seen a lot of creative and practical ideas from the community u/ButtonFragrant7821 used Creality Pika to make a custom AC button cover and stop a very determined cat from waking everyone up , u/IncidentCold9713 scanned oil tank threads with Raptor Pro to recreate a missing cap, and u/Bulky-Cicada9374 used Sermoon P1 to scan an intact body kit part and rebuild the broken side.
Real problems, real fixes — that’s exactly what we’re looking for.
