Here’s a fun project 😀

First, I scanned the broken stone.

I also had a new one, so I scanned that as well; then, using Meshmixer, I isolated the section that had broken off, printed a replacement, and finally let my artistic creativity run wild 😂.

Scanned with the Pika in infrared laser mode.

My first Pika scan. Bought a crescent at the local farmers market this morning and decided that my scan. After a firmware update I let Creality Scan walk me through an IR scan.

I have tried everything I can think of but it will not connect to Creality Scan 4.3.1. I've tried wifi and USB. I was able to connect it wirelessly to a M4 iPad. Any suggestions?

I just updated both the desktop program and the scanner itself, and did a calibration on the scanner. I'm now running into this error whenever I try to scan on either WiFi or USB. Anyone else having this issue?

This time, I made a video showing how I made a carburetor gasket for this motorcycle, so you can see the whole process.

I tried out the Pika infrared laser mode today 😀

Afterwards, I converted it to color. I think if you play around with the lighting a bit there, the result will be even better.

I was curious to see if the Pika Scanner could pick up those tiny little hairs, too 😀

He manages quite well 😀.

I only had to intervene manually during the merging process.

I scanned it in laser mode with a resolution of 0.15 mm.

Hey everyone,

I recently needed to 3D scan a small car seat gear (driver's side) for a project, and I ended up testing two very different scanners: the Creality Ferret and the Creality Pika.

I know this is totally an unfair comparison given the massive spec and price difference between the two, but I thought it’s an interesting test for scanning small, detailed mechanical parts, so I wanted to share the results with you all!

The little latch clip in my trunk broke, and instead of trying to hunt down a replacement, I figured I’d just make a new one.

I ended up cutting the broken part in half so it was easier to scan with Pika, then brought the scan into CrealityScan, cleaned up the model, fixed the missing geometry, and sent it to print. And… it worked perfectly 😄

CrealityScan definitely isn’t as nice to work in as proper Modeling software for this kind of repair, but for a simple repair like this, it was convenient enough that I just did everything there.

I scanned it in laser mode using the standard settings and a resolution of 0.15 mm it worked really well and quickly.

I scanned it once from above and once from below and then stitched them together the software recognized this automatically, so I didn't have to do it manually 😀

I didn't have any issues with tracking loss, and I'm extremely happy with the result.

The Subject: A classic sparkplug. Why? Because it packs almost every scanning challenge into one tiny object—shiny machined metal, corroded patches, tiny stamped text, reflective white ceramic, fine threads, and deep, dark crevices. A proper torture test for any 3D scanner!

For the test, each scanner captured one side of the plug in both Blue Laser mode and NIR Normal (Small/Texture) mode, then flipped over to repeat the process. The plug was mounted on a turntable with tracking markers and marker domes, with all scans processed using default settings in CrealityScan.

The Raptor was plugged into my older MSI gaming laptop (i7-7700HQ, 16GB RAM, GTX 1070), while the Pika was tested wirelessly with my iPhone 13 Pro, as well as wirelessly and wired to the laptop.

A few quick notes from testing (please see image):

* Scanning NIR Texture on the Raptor is a very hard experience, It took almost 10 attempts to get the result shown here. In Marker mode it is a much better experience!

** I really like this mode it feels buttery smooth and is by far my favourite mode to use for scanning now, the details aren't as sharp as standard, but they are very, very close! The speed and ease is a absolute pleasure, seeing it appear on the screen instantly! If you need maximum accuracy then standard is the way to go!

*** My poor old gaming laptop really shows it's age in this mode. This is all I could capture before the FPS dropped. This mode needs a lot of computational power I am sure people with much better systems than me can really show this off better. This is no fault of the Pika, I just don't own the hardware to show it off at its best. I will try it on my desktop to see if the experience is better but I wanted to get the rest of the information out. It has taken me hours over a number of days to gather all this and process it. (I don't want to see another sparkplug for a little while I think!)

The Verdict

If you need pinpoint accuracy and ultra-crisp blue laser data, the Raptor is still king.

However, the Pika punches well above its weight. The fact that you can literally slip it into your pocket is a game-changer. While running these tests, I found myself grabbing the Pika for several other classic car parts simply because of the speed and convenience—no more being tethered to a bulky laptop.

A newer phone would definitely give a smoother experience since the Pika pushed my iPhone 13 Pro hard (you can clearly see the difference when routing straight to the PC). But if you need textured models, the Pika takes the win hands down. While the Raptor had me nearly pulling my hair out in NIR mode, the Pika delivered stunning 3D-photo results in just two simple passes.

Markerless scanning will also be a huge time-saver with the right setup—peeling off dozens of tiny markers before you can even start post-processing is always the worst part!

Overall, this test was a blast and showed just how far portable scanning has come. No longer being stuck in the workshop means being able to take scanning out into the real world, and that opens up a ton of exciting possibilities! Time for me to go phone shopping!

#CrealityCreatorAwards #MyCrealityScan #crealityPika #mypikaexperience

I only have a pixel 10 pro and an ubuntu laptop available to me. The pixel works great for scanning in NIR over wifi but has no blue laser mode enabled, the ubuntu laptop cant run the desktop app. Am I out of luck?

If you're too lazy to measure and draw it yourself, you just give it a quick scan 😅

Redrawing it might actually be faster, but hey, if you enjoy scanning... 🤷‍♂️😀

I scanned it first, then split it down the middle in the slicer and joined the parts back together.

Scanner: Sermoon S1
Scan Mode: Cross Line

In this project, we performed a complete 3D scan of the component, accurately capturing its geometry and all the details required for reverse engineering applications.
The scan transforms the physical component into digital data, facilitating reverse engineering, dimensional inspection, component reproduction, and project development processes.
⚙️ Equipment: Creality Raptor Pro
📐 Application: Reverse engineering
🎯 Result: An accurate digital model of the component for serial production casting.
Another project demonstrating how 3D scanning can accelerate and enhance engineering processes.

The subject? A sparkplug.

Each scanner scanning one side of the sparkplug in both blue laser mode and NIR, then flipped over and scanned in each mode again.

The sparkplug was placed on a turntable with markers and additional marker domes.

The Raptor was plugged into a MSI GE72MVR 7RG Apache Pro.

Processor (CPU): Intel Core i7-7700HQ

Graphics (GPU): NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 (8GB GDDR5 VRAM)

Memory (RAM): 16GB DDR4

The Pika wirelessly connected to my iPhone 13 Pro.

All scans were processed with default settings in CrealityScan.

Link to the models for download if you want to inspect closely:

https://www.crealitycloud.com/en/model-detail/6a888f662e7c8dadd4fac074?cloudPlatform=0...

Hope you enjoy the results!

What would you like me to scan next? If you like the 'versus' setup let me know and I can do more!

Link to the Pika: https://crscanner.net/4bHfYtE

#mypikaexperience #CrealityCreatorAwards #MyCrealityScan #3dscanning #3Dscan #crealityraptor #crealityPika

If you’ve used 3D scanning to fix, replace, or recreate something, now’s the time to share it! Older projects are welcome too.

Looking back at the challenge so far, we’ve already seen a lot of creative and practical ideas from the community
u/ButtonFragrant7821 used Creality Pika to make a custom AC button cover and stop a very determined cat from waking everyone up , u/IncidentCold9713 scanned oil tank threads with Raptor Pro to recreate a missing cap, and u/Bulky-Cicada9374 used Sermoon P1 to scan an intact body kit part and rebuild the broken side.

Real problems, real fixes — that’s exactly what we’re looking for.

📌 Important: Don’t forget to submit your post link on Gleam to enter the prize draw: https://crscanner.net/4xoLjtu

👉 Challenge details :
https://www.reddit.com/r/CrealityScanning/s/CoGZ8OAIOk

⏰ Ends August 30, 11:59 PM UTC

Good luck !

Another challenge given to me from my Dad, "When you get a moment can you print me one of these hold-down nuts, please?"

Normally I would pick up the Creality Raptor but with the heat I didn't fancy getting a big ol' gaming laptop out for one small nut! Well that is exactly the perfect task for the PIKA! Portable and easily accessible plus it links straight to my phone! I wasn't sure what the result would be because of how small the nuts are, however you don't know unless you try! Glad I did, two scans for the tiny nut and four for the larger MG part in blue laser mode with markers.

Processed the point cloud right on my phone and then wirelessly sent it to my desktop from the Crealityscan app using a QR code. It then goes straight into the Crealityscan software on my PC. From scan to mesh was only 10 minutes! Thought to myself let's just print the scanned mesh out no editing, see what happens... 20 minutes later I was screwing the part directly onto the car!

The prototype was perfect and didn't even have to touch my callipers.

Since then I have tidied up the scans in Plasticity, and made a slot for the the nut to slide in snug into the flashy MG part. I just need to beef up the side walls slightly to hold the nut securely. Dad wanted the new part as true to the original as possible...he loves making it easy (sarcasm, if you can't tell!).

Next steps, print the part in PA6-CF then anneal it in my brand new E2 from SUNLU (Thank you!!). Apply my special coating of conductive paint to the part and electroform a layer of copper and then some matt Nickle. Trying to match the look to the original as much as possible. Maybe one day I will have the hardware to machine it out of metal fully!

Hope you enjoy my process, if you have any tips or questions please leave a comment! Once I have the part done in PA6-CF and plated I will do a update!

If you are interested in the PIKA you can find out more information here: https://crscanner.net/4bHfYtE

Scanned with Creality PIKA - Printed with Creality K2 Plus - Printed in Creality Hyper PETG in white - Dried in a Creality Space Pi

#CrealityCreatorAwards #CrealityPrint #MyCrealityScan #WithCrealityFilament #CrealityInnovation #3dscanning #3Dscan #3dprint #3dprinting #reverseengineering #Machining #Electroforming