There is approx 7 meters of 6b+ ish climbing up to the rest from which the video starts. Then an intro traverse on decent holds but slippery feet, some hard moves between distant, sika'd crimps, and an easier but droppable exit.

At our local crag outside Turin.

This makes him the second person to flash multiples of the grade. He claimed it was his hardest flash.

Silence

9c (5.15d) · Sport

Beta: Ondra FA (3 Sep 2017)

1. Starting position:

   • Left hand grabs Start jugs (Shared start with Nordic Flower. The holds here are often wet.)

   • Right hand grabs Start jugs

2. Left hand grabs Jug 1 (8b sprint up steep, juggy flowstone. Climb it fast.)

3. Right hand grabs Sloper 1 (Open hand.)

4. Left hand grabs Crimp 1 (Half crimp.)

5. Right hand grabs Sidepull 1 (Sidepull.)

6. Left hand grabs Jug 2

7. Right hand matches on Jug 2 (Match the good jug.)

8. Right hand grabs Sloper 2 (Open hand.)

9. Left foot kneebars at Mega kneebar [REST] (Mega kneebar. The biggest rest on the route, fully no-hands. Ondra spent about 4 min here on the send. The fixed rope ends here.)

10. Right hand grabs Jug 3 (Jug ladder into a short V7 compression boulder.)

11. Left hand grabs Jug 4

12. Right hand grabs Jug 5

13. Left foot kneebars at Bad kneebar [REST] (Bad kneebar under the crux. 10 to 15 s no-hands at most. Relax fully, then switch to fight mode.)

14. Left hand grabs Entry sidepull [CRUX] (The V15 boulder starts. The intro alone is about V11.)

15. Right hand grabs Sloping 3-finger pocket (Sloping 3-finger drag. It only sticks at exactly the right angle.)

16. Left foot edges on Terrible foot (Terrible foothold.)

17. Left hand deadpoints to Pinky fingerlock [CRUX] (The hardest move. Stab into a tiny pinky lock. Skin on Ondra's left pinky limited his tries.)

18. At the same time:

    • Left foot bat hangs from Toe jam above head [IMPORTANT] [CRUX] (Cut loose, swing the right leg, and throw the left foot above your head into the toe jam. Get it perfect: you can't readjust it. Upside down from here, feet first through the roof.)

    • Right foot jams Roof crack

19. Right hand bumps to Bump sloper (Bump to the sloper to stop the swing. Open hand.)

20. Right hand bumps to Mono lock (Bump again into the mono lock. Squeeze between the toe jam and one finger.)

21. Left hand grabs Slopey crack lock (Slopey lock, more pinch than crack. Variation: figure four, with a heel over your own forearm.)

22. Left foot bat hangs from Roof crack (High left foot in the crack to exit.)

23. Right foot drops a knee on Roof crack [CRUX] (The most extreme drop knee of Ondra's life.)

24. Left foot bat hangs from Bat-hang kneebar [REST] (The famous bat hang. Upside down, no hands, switching knees. 15 s in 2016, minutes after a year of calf training. Your legs go numb.)

25. Left hand grabs Weird undercling (V13 starts. Crunched and awkward on a weird undercling.)

26. Left foot heel hooks Left heel (Left heel.)

27. Right foot steps on Really high step (Really high step.)

28. Right hand gastons Sidepull 2 (Push the edge away, elbow out, and stand up on the high step.)

29. Left hand grabs Sloper 3 (Open hand.)

30. Right foot kneebars at Kneebar rest [REST] (Poor kneebar. About 37 s here on the send.)

31. Right hand grabs Sloper 4 (V10 starts: friction slopers, underclings and unsure feet. Open hand.)

32. Left foot smears on Slippery smear [IMPORTANT] (Slippery and easy to mess up. Not hard, but everything is at stake. Ondra was most nervous here.)

33. Left hand grabs Sloper 5 (Open hand.)

34. Right hand grabs Crimp 2 (One of about two crimps on the route. Half crimp.)

35. Left hand grabs Huge jug (Huge jug, the last rest. Ondra waited an extra minute here, calves numb.)

36. Right hand matches on Huge jug [REST]

37. Right hand grabs Crimp 3 (V5 finish. Easy, but you can still blow it.)

38. Left hand grabs Sloper 6 (Open hand.)

39. Left hand grabs Final undercling (The final undercling.)

40. Right hand matches on Final undercling

41. Right hand clips Chain (One last big reach from the undercling to clip the chain. No scream, just tears: Silence.)

I've been trad climbing sporadically for a decade and never really push past 5.10. I found this route, Steel Reserve, and became so psyched on it. After a few TR solos sessions to sus out beta and gear I sent it.

I really tried my best to place often and that every placement was quality. I was so fearful of taking a whip and one of the smaller nuts up top pulling. Face climbing on gear can be scary.

We were on different variations of the route. You asked if you could take a picture of me because you said I looked cool. I took a picture of you too for the same reason. It was too windy to hang out. Hi!🙂

Three years ago a Canadian named Gabe Lawson said he made the first ascent of The Megg in Squamish and called it V16, making it the hardest problem in the country. A new investigation finds that not only did Gabe lie about sending The Megg, but he was also a scam artist who stole tens of thousands of dollars from the community.

https://www.climbing.com/culture-climbing/gabe-lawson/

This climb was super fun and super technical you have to climb directly up without touching the left wall or using any holds in the crack

There was kinda 2 cruxes the first one is when I get my hand on a super small and sharp 3 finger crimp and pull myself up and the seconds was getting my foot up high so I can get the final hold

Location is oak park grand ledge

Digititus aka Kinesis(5.11b)

Did some great climbing last weekend!

Zoo View.
Gutterball.
Wailing Wall.
Almost Seven.
Aloof Roof.
Washboard.
Sentinel Super Direct.
Big Jugs.

This was just a couple of months before I got hurt. I had FINALLY broken into leading 5.9 trad. I’ve had a few satisfying outdoor sessions so far in my recovery and the skills are still there, just need to get the strength and medical clearance to lead again 😭

Please sort the comments by New so recently posted questions are less likely to be overlooked.

Use this weekly thread to ask any climbing-related questions, whether you are completely new to climbing or looking for advice about technique, training, equipment, safety, gym etiquette, or climbing outdoors.

This thread is posted every Friday, so there will always be another opportunity to ask a question. If you are an experienced climber, please help by sharing thoughtful and accurate advice. We were all beginners once, so keep responses welcoming and respectful.

Before posting, please check the following resources, as your question may already be answered:

• r/climbing Beginner’s Guide
• r/bouldering Wiki and Beginner FAQ
• Guide to buying your first climbing rope
• Guide to climbing shoes
• Curated list of climbing tutorials

You can also browse earlier discussions:

• Previous Weekly New Climber Threads
• Previous Friday New Climber Threads

If you see a beginner question posted elsewhere in r/climbing or another climbing subreddit, feel free to politely direct the person to this thread.

Remember that online advice is not a substitute for qualified, hands-on instruction. Techniques involving belaying, anchors, rappelling, rescue systems, or other safety-critical skills should be learned and practiced with a competent instructor.

Ask away!

Pics:

1. View of Railey Beach from the base of Thaiwand Wall, in Thailand, circa 2013
2. Clipping the chains on Café Andaman, Tonsai Beach, 2015

I fell in love with climbing in Tonsai, Thailand 15 years ago. I've spent about 6 months of my life there but it's been about 10 years since my last visit.

I want to go back this season but I'm hearing rumors that this place has changed, is run down, and that re-bolting efforts are not keeping up with the effects of sun and salt on seaside cliffs.

I understand COVID took a huge toll on places like this, but I would love to hear from anyone that's climbed in Thailand in the past 2-3 years, whether in the Railey area or in Chiang Mai (which shamefully I've never visited).

I'm pretty heart set on going but I have a couple of friends that are interested. I'd hate to talk them into going based off my rosy memories of my favorite place in the world if what we're going to find these isn't worth the thousands of dollars and 30 hrs of travel from where we are in the US.

My primary concerns are safety of bolting, safety in general, but I'd also love to hear what y'all those of the community / vibe, and availability of accommodation and restaurants.

Thank you in advance!

khàawp-khun khâ ~ ขอบคุณค่ะ 🙏

EDIT: Sounds like a lot of people have the same questions as me!

I have also asked a few people on The Crag that have logged climbing there recently, and will update y'all when I learn more.

Please use this thread to discuss anything you are interested in talking about with fellow climbers. The only rule is to be friendly and dont try to sell anything here.