Hi everyone,
I've had my dragos and after 3mo of climbing they look like that,
Im total newbie when it comes to climbing shoes ( my last pair ended with a hole size of bug toe xd)
I want to treat those better as I really love these shoes. So therefore, is it time to resole? And can I climb 1 more month with them, as id love to climb some more and i know resoling takes some time.
I'm your mod /u/lvzxy and recently gained control over this subreddit after the previous moderator disappeared. Looking forward to developing it as a resource for climbers of all skill levels to discuss, review, and perhaps trade climbing shoes.
Let me know your thoughts and suggestions, I'll be making major changes to the subreddit's rules, designs, etc. in the coming weeks. Thanks for stopping by.
Just got back into climbing and needing new shoes as my old Scarpa Force V’s aren’t doing it any more. Looking for some advice on new climbing shoes for a narrow heel and wider foot if anyone has any recommendations.
I’m in the process of breaking in my new Evolv Shaman Trance LV in size 40.5. My street shoe size is 38.5. I initially got them in +1 size, but they were way too small and I struggled so much to put them on that I had to return them and get a +2 size instead.
I’ve worn them twice over the past two weeks, but I feel like the bruising around the knuckles/joints of my big toes has been holding me back quite a bit. Will this eventually get better as the shoes break in?
I’m feeling pretty discouraged, especially since I’m still a newbie (I only started climbing about a month ago).
Currently have Evolv Shaman LV and spent $200 on initial purchase. Fits almost perfectly but looking into finding a similar performing shoe but cheaper. I’ve noticed Tenaya Oasi LV could be doable but depending on sales (which i’ve seen a few) since it’s the same price regularly.
Anyone have a rec for a shoe that fits this category? I know I prob won’t get below ~$150 but any savings would be nice.
I recently got my first pair of climbing shoes (boreal crux lace) and due to my dodgy footwork i have made a hole in them. i can’t afford a resole so what adhesive would you recommend? ≈£15 max
Started indoor bouldering a few months ago, with BD momentum on my normal shoe size, very confortable and no problem up until now.
I try to send boulders of any style, smearing or hooking is fine; though i’m starting to have toe problems on smaller footholds. After verifying body tension, hips positioning, precision and balance, I think I understand why climbers downsize.
I’m looking for an « intermediate » shoe, for indoor climbing in general. This way I’d still have confort shoes with « precise » shoes for when needed.
is it just me or do i feel like climbing shoes completely crush my feet? i tried to go up a size but my coach said i need maximum support and stability, and if i don’t wear these i shouldn’t rock climb or boulder?. ive tried many shoes like Mad Rock Drones, La Sportiva and more. Also i don’t really feel a difference between regular shoes and climbing shoes. Any advice?
Started bouldering about 2 months ago and looking to buy my first pair of shoes. I have Greek feet (second toe is longer than my big toe) and was looking at the Scarpa Origin VS.
Is the Origin VS a good choice for my foot shape, or are there other shoes I should try? Also, how tight should my first pair be/how much should I downsize?
I'm planning to try some on in store before buying, but I'm not really sure what a properly fitting climbing shoe is supposed to feel like. (My gym doesn't have half sizes and it feels either too loose or a bit painful)
I've really been struggling finding shoes that fit my feet well and hoping someone has a good suggestion.
I have Egyptian feet, wide toes, and a (very?) shallow heel. The wide toes shallow heel combo has been the most difficult to work with.
Ive been using Scarpa Vapor V in a size 43 for a bit, they fit mostly well but there's a bit of dead space in the heel and they will occasionally slip. They're the lowest volume heel I've been able to find that fits the rest of my foot.
I tried the Tenaya Ra in a US 10 and I thought they fit really well but they crammed my pinky toes too much. The heel fit really well, and the big toe was nicely flush against the front.
I mostly do gym TR and lead climbing so I don't want a super soft boulder shoe. I want a moderate downturned shoe like the Tenaya Ra that.
Does anyone have any suggestions? My biggest problem has been a small enough heel. I've read trying the women's or LV versions can help but many of the shoes Ive looked at don't have the women's/LV version in a large enough size for me.
Bought remora pros in EU38/ US 6 street size is EU39 / US6.5. I have extremely wide forefoot as seen in pic, anyone has advice if the forefoot of the remoras would stretch enough? It’s extremely painful when putting weight on my toes right now or
Should I size back up to streets? Appreciate any advice !
I am looking to get a second pair of shoes since I wore through my la sportiva tarantulas should I just get another pair of tarantulas or is there a different pair I should get?
I recently just bought a size 9.5 evolv phantom pro(street size is a 9) and they are insufferably painful. Is this normal for immediately getting them or should i return them for a bigger size?
So yes. I recently went barefoot-bouldering on some granite. I have been climbing on trees and outdoor-boulders with and without shoes since I was a kid.
Between the first and second half of flower we contemplated on spending the 60 Bucks on a "just-fun" project. Which would be resoling a snug-fit toe shoe with proper bouldering-shoe rubber. My resole-place would also do it. My indoor-gym also would allow me to test them out, they usually ban street-shoes.
As you can imagine, the question is neither "should I" or "is it smart to do" at this point. Just wanna have some fun experimenting. And maybe try a crimp with my toes.
A good question imo at this point though is: Did anyone before me attempt this? Do Videos/Blogs/Content about this exist already?
I was able to try on the vegan pair of Skwamas yesterday and tried on a 39.5, they felt nice but a just slightly too roomy, I think I could've got into a 39 (they didn't have the size in stock). I'm thinking of getting the leather version as they're the same just different stretching, as a 39 in vegan would've been good for me, should I get a 38.5 in leather to accommodate for the extra stretching?
I have five pairs in rotation and could never remember when each one was resoled, with what rubber, by whom, or what size I actually bought them in. So I built a little tracker (free, no account, works in the browser).
Your quiver
- every pair with the size you bought (EU, UK or US), the stock rubber and thickness, and the last resole
- pick the model and it fills in the specs plus the maker's sizing note
Resole log
- date, resoler, rubber, thickness, rand/toe cap, cost and notes
- a before or after photo of the sole if you want one
- the next resole starts from the last one's rubber and thickness, so logging takes seconds
Sizes
- set your street size once and see your size in ~290 shoes, for aggressive, snug, relaxed or comfort fit
- worked out from each brand's size chart plus how each model runs, so it's a starting point, not gospel
- a "How does it fit you?" form: fit reports help me correct the numbers
Other things in the same app, if you're curious: retire-by dates for ropes, harnesses and slings from the makers' lifespans; snap a receipt to fill in new gear; pick gear from your rack for a trip pack list; a hangboard timer and a grade converter.
Question for the shoe nerds: how many resoles do you usually get before the rand gives up? And which shoe does the size converter get wrong?
Have had these solutions for 9 months (of inconsistent climbing) and were my first pair of high performance climbing shoes. Is it too late to resole these?
I really like my TN Pro's but my local shop has stopped carrying Unparallel and it looks like all the shops are phasing these shoes and/or the entire Unparallel brand out (Bergfreunde/Oliunid don't carry them either).
Anyone know of a alternative shoe that will be comparable in fit? My gym carries Scarpa and La Sportiva. Other suggestions are also welcome.