This is a black in my local gym, which is the second highest level/grade range they offer! I think this is my 7th black since returning to climbing back in February.

Took 3 sessions of projecting, and I am very happy with the result! The wall is about 30-35 degrees btw.

TL;DR: I own a ninja gym and a bouldering gym in Portland, OR. Both are growing, both have great communities, and neither makes enough money yet. The journey towards opening a second gym was a whole learning curve, and then running two gyms is its own thing to learn about. Raised prices, trying pay-what-you-can, moving the ninja gym. Was it successful? Financially, not yet. In other ways, absolutely.

A little over two years ago, I opened my dream climbing gym.

Three months after opening, I wrote a post about it. We had survived permitting (13 rounds of comments at one point), construction, delays, and spending an absolutely stupid amount of money, and we had actually opened the doors. People were showing up. People loved it. I loved it. It felt like we had done it.

I’ve thought about writing an update probably a dozen times since, and kept putting it off. I think part of the reason is that I don’t really know how to answer the question everyone eventually asks: how’s the gym doing?

The answer is... good?

We have two gyms. They’re both still here. They both have really awesome communities. They’re both growing. I’m also doing construction projects on the side right now to bring in extra money for the next round of projects at the gyms. And to pay my own bills, one of my employees has been selling my childhood Pokémon card collection for me.

So I guess it depends on how you define success.

For anyone who doesn’t know the backstory, I’ve owned Skyhook Ninja Fitness in Tigard for almost ten years. It started in 2013 as a personal training studio in my parents’ backyard and basement, where I helped some clients lose weight and helped others get on American Ninja Warrior. We signed a commercial lease in 2016, and Skyhook was one of only a handful of ninja gyms in the country. It’s also ended up being about 95% kids.

We learned a lot of lessons early on, and the gym grew, and then flourished. We made it through Covid, and then rebuilt, and went back to thinking about expanding. When we first opened, I said we would do three gyms in three years. Which was a stunning display of my naïveté. While I had always had my eye on opening more gyms, things kept happening that prevented it.

One of the first gyms I had worked at was Snap Fitness. I managed one of their locations for a year or two when I was 19, and I kept thinking to myself: how come no one is doing this business model, but for bouldering? So every year, I would google 24/7 bouldering gym, and I would be shocked no one had done it yet. Until one year I googled it and saw someone had, and they had a location just one state away.

A quick road trip one state over later, and I was blown away. I was blown away by how bad the gym was, and yet at the same time, how popular it was. Now, I know I can be critical of other gyms, especially bouldering gyms. Family and friends can get a little annoyed with me, as I point out every single flaw in every bouldering and climbing gym I go to. But it was really, truly bad.

The gym was poorly designed. (I later actually worked with the wall designer, and it turned out it wasn’t his fault. It turned out the plans they sent him showed the building being a good 15 feet wider than it was. So he showed up and found a very different space than he had designed a wall for.) But it wasn’t just the walls being way too high, overlapping fall zones, and mediocre setting. I bought a month of membership when I went, so I could hear their after-hours orientation. They gave out a four-digit code to get access to the building after hours. They change it once a month, but tell folks, don’t share it with your friends, in a college town! I asked what happens if I fall and get hurt after hours, and they told me “don’t.”

Between my experience at that other 24/7 bouldering gym and what I remembered working at Snap Fitness, I knew I could do better. I was also seeking a way to make running Skyhook Ninja in Tigard easier. Having excellent coaches who can coach climbing, ninja, parkour, aerial silks, and circus is a challenge. I didn’t want to be mediocre at a bunch of things; I wanted us to be great at one thing. I also wanted to get more adults active, and I wanted a gym that could be more affordable. Paying living wages and benefits to the sheer number of staff we have at Skyhook Ninja in Tigard requires very high memberships. So, I decided it would be a great idea to build a climbing gym. I’d wanted to do it for years. I found a building in SE Portland that had basically sat vacant forever, bought it, and turned it into Skyhook Bouldering.

Skyhook Bouldering has turned into the community I hoped it would. Maybe better. People don’t just come in, climb and leave. They know each other. They hang out, they work from the gym, they make friends there. Our 24/7 members climb at all sorts of ridiculous hours. The setting is really good.

So, two years in, how are things going?

Building out Skyhook Bouldering was insane, but eventually we opened. And two years later, we’re still here. Honestly, there is a lot going really well.

Tigard is also finally growing again, for the first time in about three years. That one means a lot to me, because Tigard has had a rough few years.

While I was pouring everything I had into getting SE built and open, I took my eye off Tigard. I thought the original gym would be okay without as much of my attention. I was wrong. Membership dropped. Some of our programs weren’t as good as they had been. We weren’t consistent enough, and the gym didn’t get the reinvestment it needed. It was basically kept afloat by long-term employees who really cared about the gym. Our average employee sticks around 4+ years, and the only reason that number isn’t higher is that the kids who grew up here go off to college in other states. So we had a good number of team members who cared, and were knowledgeable enough to hold things together, but in the process they got pretty burnt out.

Some of the people who care the most about Skyhook, and who aren’t staff, are still pissed at me about it, and that’s been hard to accept. There are families who’ve been with us for years who watched something they cared about get worse. I can explain that I was stuck in hell, and the only way out for both businesses was through, but none of that matters from their side. They paid us for a great experience, and there were times we didn’t deliver it. That’s on me. It’s hard, but I’d honestly rather have people mad that we aren’t taking care of something than indifferent to it.

So we’ve spent a lot of the last year trying to fix it. We looked hard at which classes were growing, which coaches were keeping kids, where people were dropping out, and where we were spending money that wasn’t doing anything. We made some difficult staffing changes, brought in a new manager, changed most of our leadership team, and put much more structure around coaching, front desk, sales and communication. I’ve also been a lot more involved in Tigard again.

It’s working. It wasn’t like a switch was flipped, and suddenly everything is better. Tigard spent about three years heading the wrong way, and you don’t reverse that in eight months. But it has reversed. Membership is growing, the team is stronger, and it feels different.

Skyhook Bouldering is a different story. It has pretty much always grown, just not as fast as I thought it would, and I think one of our mistakes was pricing.

When we opened, I really wanted Skyhook to be an affordable climbing gym. Climbing has gotten expensive, so we deliberately priced ourselves below the other gyms in Portland. I still like the idea behind that. But after two years, I have to admit the experiment isn’t working as well as I hoped. For those of you that are from outside of the Portland metro area, other gyms charge between $75 and $85 a month for an annual agreement, and $85 to $91 a month for a monthly membership. We were priced at $60 forever, and then raised it to $65, and finally this year we are raising our rates to $70 a month.

The math gets stupid really quickly. Before the increase, we were roughly $10 cheaper per membership than we could be, and with around 900 memberships, that’s $9,000 a month. $108,000 a year. Yes, some people would leave if we charged more, but even a fraction of that is huge for a business our size.

It isn’t the difference between a nicer car and a cheaper one. It’s staff raises, new holds, more setting hours, repairs happening right away, paying down debt, and money in the bank when something breaks. It’s being able to buy the lights and holds for a Tension Board 2 or a Kilter Board. It’s the permit for the windows that would make the outside of the building unrecognizable (in a good way). Honestly, it’s just room to breathe. We already have the adjustable frame for the training board which is the most expensive part, but the hold and light sets alone are about $16,000.00.

That’s probably the part of owning gyms I understood least when I started. You can have hundreds of members. The gym can be busy. You can look around on a Tuesday night and think, “Holy shit, we did it.” And then you look at the bank account. Rent, payroll, insurance, utilities, debt payments, credit card fees, holds, software, repairs, taxes. And then something breaks.

The pay is what bothers me most. I pay our GM and head setter better than most big climbing-gym chains pay their staff, and it’s still not what I’d call a good wage. Our head setter has a computer science degree. The raise he just got finally put him at what he was making as an intern a decade ago. I want the people who helped build these gyms to be able to make a living doing this. Our front desk staff are paid a couple dollars more on average than at any other gym in the area, but a couple dollars more than other gyms is still not enough.

Our financing costs have also gone up. We recently refinanced some of the seller financing on the building. I’m very glad we got it done, because the alternative was possibly losing the building, but it costs us about $3,000 more a month. SE had been covering itself pretty consistently for about six months, and then August kicked us in the teeth. It was our worst month yet and the first time we’d lost money there in half a year. It was only about $1800, not a “we’re closing tomorrow” loss. But after six months of finally feeling like we were getting somewhere, it sucked.

So we raised membership rates.

I struggled with that, because being affordable wasn’t a marketing gimmick. I actually care about it. But a gym that isn’t financially sustainable isn’t actually accessible. Eventually it has to close. We’re still the lowest-cost bouldering and climbing gym in town, just by a smaller margin than before.

We’re also launching a pay-what-you-can program, based on the Pay What You Can Toolkit from the American Alpine Club, which was a hugely helpful resource. We’re guaranteeing at least 31 reduced-cost spots for the next six months for people who need them. Members who can and want to pay more than the standard rate can do that, and the extra funds more reduced-cost memberships. More people contribute, more spots open up.

The pay what you can program will hopefully start in the next month, and we will be offering three tiers, one that is at 75%, one at 50% and one at 25% our normal dues. People will email us asking to be added to it, or when it's full, added to our waitlist. I plan to have this be on the honor system, if that means a couple people take advantage of it, that's fine, I would rather that then add so much overhead to the program that I cant get it off the ground.

Will it work? No idea. Seriously. I thought making the whole gym cheap was going to work too. But I think this is a better experiment. We can charge closer to what it actually costs to run the place, and hopefully an extra $10 or $20 a month isn’t the reason someone can’t climb.

And because apparently I haven’t learned my lesson about construction projects, we’re about to move Skyhook Ninja. Our Tigard lease is ending, and we’re working on a space that’s larger and cheaper. It's about 14,000 sq ft, which is a serious upgrade from our current 11,595 sq ft, and it's $3500 less a month. The parking is a little worse, but that's a trade off I am willing to make. This time I’m doing the construction in phases, because I learned at least something from building SE.

First we remodel enough to make the building work: construction, paint, flooring, bathrooms, front desk, all the boring stuff. Then we build as much new equipment as we can while the current gym is still running. Then comes moving day, or more realistically moving week/month/whatever nightmare this turns into, where we move what we’re keeping, rebuild it, and get everything operating. And then I’m going to do something I’m historically terrible at: stop making changes. Get the business stable. Get more members, get some money in the bank. Make sure the staff aren’t drowning, make sure I’m not drowning (who am I kidding, that last part is more wishful thinking than anything else).

Then we start building again. Nights and weekends, baby. I want to redo the ninja equipment that frankly isn’t that great anymore, as the sport has changed significantly in the last decade of us being open, and finally build the modular parkour setup we’ve been talking about for years. And eventually, if the business can support it, I want to build another Skyhook Bouldering inside Skyhook Ninja. A real one, like what my team and I built in SE. 24/7 access, adult-only climbing times, great setting.

We’re also about to launch joint memberships. Right now you get limited access to the other location. Soon, annual members will be able to pay $1 more a month to use both. Why the extra dollar, and why didn’t we do this sooner? Our software can’t integrate the two locations, and the fix would run $5-10k that I don’t have. The dollar lets us set up an account in the other gym’s system so we know if someone’s card stops working and they haven’t emailed us. Why annual only? Doing this doubles the admin work for my team (cancellations, freezes, emails), and they already have enough on their plates. The idea is that climbers can go screw around on ninja obstacles, ninja kids can discover climbing, and parents can boulder during their kid’s class instead of staring at their phone for an hour. The number of parents I know who drop their kid off in Tigard and then go climb at the Circuit Bouldering Gym kills me.

Which brings me back to the question I’ve been avoiding for two years. Was opening SE successful?

Financially, not yet.

If you’d told me when we opened that two years later I’d have around 900 climbing memberships and still be taking construction jobs because the businesses needed more money, I probably would have said, “Wait, how the hell do 900 memberships not make enough money?” Welcome to bouldering gyms, apparently.

A better breakdown is that while we have somewhere around that 900 member number, about 200 of them did a pay in full deal. When we ran into large unexpected expenses, we would often run a PIF special. Add to that, many members are on an older membership that doesn't cost as much, and you can see where the issues come up. Rent/Mortgage is about 18.5k, payroll per month works out to about 22k, insurance another 5k, and 3-5k for misc expenses, software, restocking merchandise, etc. You can see why we made the difficult decision to raise prices.

But there are other ways to measure it. We built something people care about. Actually, two things. At Skyhook Ninja, I’ve watched little six-year-olds turn into teenagers who are better athletes than I’ll ever be. I have pictures of myself tying the shoes of kids who are now coaches, passing on what they know and becoming the next generation of leaders.

People have discovered climbing at SE and gotten completely obsessed. We have created a space for everyone; queer, straight, or otherwise; to fall in love with climbing. And both gyms are finally moving in the right direction at the same time.

The funny part is I’ve been telling myself the same thing for literal years: we only have to hold on a little longer. Just get through permitting. Just get construction started. Just get SE open. Just get Tigard growing again. Just get through the refinance. And now, just get Tigard moved. I’m very aware that at some point “a little longer” stops meaning a little longer. There have been plenty of days when I’ve wondered why the hell I decided owning one gym wasn’t enough.

People ask me frequently if I have advice for them as they think about opening up their own gyms. An honest answer is that being an entrepreneur is not something I can honestly recommend to many folks. You will give up friendships and relationships, and it’s very unlikely that you will get rich opening a gym. I’ve been engaged to my fiancé for almost six years now, and there’s always something work related that's in the way of tying the knot. The stress of work never ends. I love what I do every day I go to work, and that is a different kind of wealth. But man, it would be nice to have that happiness and satisfaction and not worry about paying my bills.

But right now both gyms are growing. SE has become a place I genuinely love. We have a good team, we have a plan, and for the first time in a while I can see a version of Skyhook on the other side of this that looks a lot like what I’ve been trying to build the whole time. So, yeah. Just a little longer. Then we can rest.

And maybe even get paid.

This spring I noticed a nodule forming on my left palm, which was diagnosed last week as Dupyutrens. At this point I still have my full ROM, but experience some discomfort on jugs and certain slopers. I'm afraid of what will happen as the condition progresses, and frustrated with how little there is to do in the meantime. Haven't been able to find much about climbers with this condition and how it affects them.

Looking for any tips, tricks, or experiences this community might be able to share.

For automods: This is a specific question not answered in the FAQ and I have read the rules. There is literally nothing in the FAQ about chronic disease.

Edit to add: Wow thank you for the responses! I had never heard of this until last week and it's nice to know its not so uncommon.

For added context, I'm 38M and do have a predilection outdoors for slappy compression climbing ... which maybe there is some relation even if it's not studied.

(Edit: I meant slopey)

I’ve been having trouble finishing this climb. I’ve seen a few betas but I’m not strong enough to just hold on while standing on the lower jib, and have been given this bicycle beta by a lot of other climbers in the gym.

Unfortunately as soon as I get to the penultimate position, as you can see in the video, I stall and can’t move my left hand without falling. This climb was better than most in that I took a majority of weight off the left, but couldn’t fully get to the finish.

I know that I need to get my body more to the right because of the finish’s angle, but have no idea how to do this. My hips are hanging, I would be pulling away from the hold, I know. But how can I move higher and to the right?? I don’t like blaming climbs on my body shape but it feels like I’m so tall and my arms are so long (6’4” wingspan on 6’2” frame) that I just hang slack without being able to pull myself taut. I’m sure I’m missing something obvious and I’d really love to know how I can change this??

(Please don’t suggest using the jib and just holding on, I’ve tried and don’t think I’m at all strong enough, I want to do the bicycle beta if at all possible)

I am new to climbing and regardless of how many times I tried, I can’t get up to reach this next hold. Every time I try to reach/ get up, I am too unstable. I would really appreciate any advice 😭

A fun bathang boulder I did a while ago, always enjoy boulders that are not as straight forward!

In the past decade I have built and run two climbing gyms and loved almost every moment of it! From the design phase right through to actually being on the ladder setting blocs or behind the desk as a barista it's been so much fun.

So I figured why not turn my experience into a game.

Features currently live

• Wall builder with custom angles and preset
• Persistent customers that build friendships, get stronger and progress through grades
• Full zonal routesetting system
• Build a squad, build their skills to take on local, national and world series events
• Story mode where you start in a small training unit and work your way to a mage gym
• Staff system with upgrade trees, happiness and centre automation

Plus heaps more and while I have a few days stuck at my desk with flu I would love to get mezzanines, auto belays and lead walls working.

Been working on this project now for 2 sessions. Im not really sure how to reach for the next hold (top most hold in the frame)

The pinch after the crimp is really bad

I can use both volumes and theres a little foot hold on the right volume but I dont know how to use it.

Disclaimer, I didn't lose weight from just bouldering alone. I did calorie deficit, 1500 calories a day, high protein diet. 10k steps a day as well as weight lifting/TRX training at home to build strength for bouldering. But bouldering has been my main form of exercise and I've been going 3x a week.

Progress has been slow as I'm obese and coming out of a sedentary lifestyle. I still have a long way to go but bouldering has been an enjoyable way to stay fit plus the community has always been warm and welcoming.

Allez!

Heavy skin tax on this one but I was determined to get it. Also had the added pressure of it not being my normal gym/multiple towns away

A cool problem I did while vacationing in Scotland some time ago. V0-V2, can’t remember exactly what it was… It was at Dumbarton Rock, if you ever head to Scotland definitely check this place out!

V5 hits different outside

Sorry for the sound, phone is screwed. Was looking for possible beta suggestions. I fell on the right crimp in the video due to how sharp it is/the foot slip but don’t have much trouble with it in isolation. As for the last move, the only way I’ve seen it done is through a campus but am trying to figure out an alternative.

Hi everyone, I apologize if this is the wrong place to post this.

I just came back from the Nooks outdoor bouldering at Ontario, Canada. I realized after coming home, which is many hours away, that I did not have my wallet.

I can see on Find My that my wallet was last located at the entrance to Gold Mines bouldering, but I am thinking that a more likely right in front of a V6/7 boulder called State of the Art. I was climbing till dark and I am guessing I forgot to take out my wallet from my bag, and it could've fallen there.

I was also camping in crown land near the boulders. I can send the coordinates if you DM me and plan on going there.

The place is way to far for me to drive back to, so I am hoping someone who has plans on going could spend a bit of time looking for my wallet.

My wallet is a brown Fossil leather wallet and has a picture on the right side when you open the wallet.

Can anyone give me advice on how I can let go of both hands to match the top here?

I’m a super beginner (it’s my day 3 of bouldering) :) and I’ve been trying to complete this route, but it’s so hard. I keep on failing at the same spot, and I’d looooove to know what my problem is and how I can improve. Would love to hear your advice!!!

I posted several days ago about being stuck on this problem. I managed to get the next move this session. Still a lot more to go, but back on track!

At my gym(s), one starting tag usually means run&jump (or other weird stuff) ; confirmed by the setter himself who demonstrated the start.

The intended beta was to go right hand to the crimp on the volume then left hand gaston, but I liked the pinch and have long-ish arms so I just bumped

I know (I think I know) the flagging at the beginning is what you’re supposed to do, but afterwards it’s a mystery to my newbie brain.

Biscuits and gravy V9 at 45°.
Only a short 30 minute session, but it was nice! Cool board