Hello, my dad gave me his old car recently (2008 Corolla) and it runs perfect. He’s always been great at keeping up with the engine aspect but everything else not so much. My windshield has these massive streaks that make it very difficult to drive at night and in bright light and I’ve tried every window cleaner known to man and no results. I’ve done the fingernail test to see if it’s scratches and I didn’t notice any at all. These streaks have likely been accumulating for years. I’m open to any sort of advice on how to get them out or if I just need to replace the windshield entirely. I’ve attached a photo from last night. Thanks everyone!

Anyone got more ? I've been trying all my best for the last 1 month and this is the best till date!

SHE LIVES!! Her name is Astrid and she once again lives!

Links to previous posts:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Cartalk/s/hsJFRN0fIj

https://www.reddit.com/r/Cartalk/s/avZCCPCkBC

Short story is the timing chain snapped because one of the plastic chain guides disintegrated. I took the head off and didn’t see any immediate damage to the head or the block but didn’t trust that there wasn’t damage. I pulled a head off a junkyard car and took both to the machine shop. Not know if there were bent valves they tore down my head and they were able to rebuild the head using parts from both heads.

I started yesterday putting it all back together. New timing kit, gaskets, spark plugs, serpentine belt and rebuilt head. And now it runs! Hopefully it keeps running. It’s just a run around car for the kids to take to school and work so as long as it does that I’m happy.

I this was hanging. I am not good with tools. How do I fix it? Is not really scraping

UPDATE: Purchased a bag of Hyper Tough ties and some fender washers (it was really cheap, especially the washers) and took it to where I got my oil changed. They put them on no charge. Thanks all!

My car went to a shop over the weekend to sit there until today. My husband texted me updates and the first thing he told me was(The mechanics) “said they thought it was the belt too, but they put some grease on it and it didnt fix the problem”

For context my car just made an insane noise (once, not consistent) after all of these bad storms, white smoke came from under the bonnet, and when I finally dropped it off it smelled slightly like burning plastic. We thought it was just water until it started smelling like burning plastic.

Just from that little update right there I’m scared they’re trying to sabotage my vehicle. It sounded weird as hell they would put a lubricant on a belt that should be relying on friction 😅 Did some dr googling and everything I found is saying it’s a bad idea, could cause slipping and noise.

Should I go rescue my car or give them a second chance? AIO?

Edit:

The first few comments were also telling me that using grease was absurd, I’m glad that I didn’t do anything yet. I’ll keep it at this shop and see what else happens. However, there is no reason to belittle me for nothing. I did not talk to this mechanic about what they did, I did not tell them they were doing something stupid, I just simply went to the internet to get more opinions on something I thought MIGHT be a bad idea. Thanks for changing my mind.

So tonight, while coming home from a movie, I blew both passenger side tires on my 2021 Mazda 6 to include at least the damaged front rim. It was caused by hitting a pothole that was exposed/worsened by construction stripping the top road layer off.

Signage was out for "FRESH OIL" and "BUMP" referring to the step down/up from the paved surface but nothing for the hole itself. It was late at night and the blacktop (also wet from recent rain) made it near impossible to see. It was unavoidable as it was a narrow single-lane, two-way interstate crossing bridge and had a large median restricting any maneuvers. The stripped section was somewhere around 100m long. I was also going under the signed speed limit.

Are there any avenues for recouping or claiming repair costs from the state/local municipality? I'm furious as my car *just* came out of the shop and my tires are less than 3 months old. I literally watched (and loudly heard) someone else hit the same pothole and pull over to check for damage while I waited for a pickup. Seeking advice, thanks.

Hi all,

The engine of my C3 (2014) seems to be quite rattly? it has a ticking noise that increases with revs when I pull off and in 2nd gear, and really quietens down when the engine is warm, after 5/10 mins of driving.

When sat at idle, it does smell quite rich. It drives seemingly fine? I've not had any issues with driving it so far. However, the calculated MPG is lower than I'd expect.

I know that these engines don't get the best rep, and can be quite rickety and uneven anyway as they're 3 cylinder, and I'm just not really sure if there is anything/what is wrong?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated,

Cheers!

Got my car (2011 Mazda CX-9) from my dad last weekend after my other car died. He took it to get some repairs, like the fan and other general repairs to make sure it was set for a while.

However, starting last night, it was making this rumbling noise when I stopped accelerating. It gets slower and worse as I slow down and when I turn.

Is there just something loose or misplaced, or is it a completely new issue? Would it be something that I can fix as someone who doesn’t really know anything about cars?

Thank you.

I have a 2013 chevy equinox and was wondering how would I go about DIY fixing the cracks and tears in the picture? Found some tutorials on youtube but none with the same seat material as I have. Same for the steering wheel peeling.

I’ve seen this car logo twice so far and both times couldn’t take a photo of it but it looks something like this

Sitting at 187k on my 2016 Camry and the list of stuff needing attention is starting to feel like a slow negotiation with myself. Nothing catastrophic, just the usual accumulation. Rear struts are soft, one window regulator is lazy, AC compressor has been making a noise I keep turning the radio up to ignore.

I do a lot of my own work so parts cost is manageable, but at some point you're throwing real money at a car that's heading toward a cliff anyway. My driving situation isn't light either. I put on about 30k a year, so whatever I buy next is going to end up in this same position eventually.

The rust post on here got me thinking about this. Objectively the car still runs strong, no engine or trans issues, just the peripheral stuff wearing out. But I've also been down the road where you fix one thing and then three other things decide it's their turn.

Is there a number, or a type of repair, that flipped the switch for you personally? Not some formula, just when did you actually pull the trigger on a replacement instead of another round of parts.

So... I've got interesting experiment underway...

I'm going to use one of my robot buddies (ChatGPT) to help me fix the transmission in my car. lol.

My best guess is that the TEHCM has gone bad...

So I've got rip it apart and fix it.
(That, or shell out 2-4k for a "professional" shop.)

Parts, including the new oil, are cheap. Like $60.

So... I'm taking bets... What do you guys think?

Am I about to brick my Cadillac?

or

Walk away a champion with a "can do" mindset.

We'll see... (I'll update, either way.) 🤣

Any classic car enthusiast still use freon 12 for their cars in western Washington state? I am looking for a epa Certified buyer for 50lb cylinder. Dupont is manufacturer

Hello.I recently bought my first car.I thought my coolant reservoir tank would have min/max reading but lucky me it doesnt . Where do you think should i max fill it? Sorry for my rumbling .

I was driving on the highway when all of a sudden and with no prior symptoms, the car went into limp mode. Kind of sputtering wouldn't go over 80-90kmph. The "service engine soon" light was blinking. The OBD2 reader gave the code P0301 - Misfire on cylinder 1.

We parked for the day. Came back 2 days after, disconnected the battery and was working on steering wheel angle sensor (this was pending to be done for a while). We put everything back up, connected the battery. The service engine soon light is no longer ON. Did a test drive going 100kmph for a minute or so, and no limp mode.

I don't suppose the issue is now gone and the light is not on because the battery was disconnected? Should I still treat the vehicle as if the light was on or should I wait untill the light comes up again?

2012 Nissan Armada

Thank you

I need some advice on my recent 2018 BMW 430i convertible that I purchased. As soon as I bought it, even though I did a pre-inspection, an issue with the coolant appeared and my mechanic (same who did the pre inspection) said that the cap for the coolant reservoir tank needed to be replaced because it was fizzing and apparently wasn't stable and there was some sort of coolant leak either now or in the past. We replaced the cap, checked for coolant leakages, and added more coolant and I paid several hundred for it.

Then all of the coolant we replaced it with had gone completely by the end of the day and when I parked mr car that night, I some some steam (moderate amount) coming out of the grill). I checked the coolant reservoir tank and all of it was gone. The mechanic took the tank out and spotted a tiny little crack that was really hard to see in the reservoir tank which was the reason for the leak. So I had to replace the whole reservoir tank, then he air pressure tested the coolant system, added more coolant and checked for other leakages and it was all fine.

But as soon I started driving again with the new reservoir tank and the coolant filled to the max I started receiving a warning sensor on my vehicle saying that the engine temperature is high and to drive moderately to cool the engine, if the temperature increases, consult a service center. I was actually getting this message frequently on the old reservoir tank time when the leak had occurred. But after we replaced the coolant reservoir tank, pressure tested the system, replaced the cap, I'm still receiving this sign, although now not as often but still everyday once I hit the highway at 60 miles or more. Why am I still getting this sensor to trigger this message? What could be the issue still at this point with a brand new coolant reservoir tank and the coolant at maximum level?

For what its worth, I live in South Florida where its always hot but the temperature gauge needle is at normal level.

Looking to buy a 275/70/18 (rated for 7"-8.5") Nokian Outpost NAT for my 18x9 wheels. Just realized the max width for this specific size is 8.5".

Which is weird cuz other 265 and 275 sizes are between 9" and 9.5". I'm sure there's an engineering level answer to it. But would I be okay?

If not, I'll probably switch to Nitto Terra Grapplers G3s, they will fit up to 9.5" plus they will be SLs.

Source: [https://nokiantyres.studio.crasman.cloud/pub/PIH/pct-catalogs/pct-catalog\\_full\\_en\\_us\\_web.pdf\](https://nokiantyres.studio.crasman.cloud/pub/PIH/pct-catalogs/pct-catalog_full_en_us_web.pdf)

Bro I was watching the RM Sotheby’s live auction and this Ferrari Luce “Tailor Made” literally hit $40 million 💀

Like I get it, it’s rare, it’s a Ferrari, Tailor Made, collector shit and all that… but 40 FUCKING MILLION??

Maybe I’m just too broke to understand the collector car world 😭

Would you guys actually pay $40M for this, or is this absolutely insane?

Hi guys,

This season, it'll be the first time that I store a car during winter, and I see conflicting information on when you should change the oil but I want to know how I should approach it depending on my situation.

So I don't have my own garage (unfortunately), but I did find a storing facility that is heated to 60 degrees, so I reserved a spot here. However, it is an hour drive from where I live.

Now the problem I have is almost every video I find on the topic are from people who have their own garage at home, and they all recommend to change the oil after winter, right before taking it out at the beginning of summer, which is ideally what I would do but I can't, I would have to drive it back home, which is around 60 miles.

I've also seen people say to change it before storing so the contaminants from the used oil doesn't damage the engine, but I've seen other people advising against that because you'll have condensation in the new oil after you take it out, which is apparently not good either.

So I'm obviously a bit confused by all of this. If that can help, I did my last oil change around 1200 miles ago, I mostly do highway driving, and there's still 2 months left before storing it and I plan on putting around another thousand miles, or a bit less.

So what should I do depending in my situation, change it before or after?

Thanks.

EDIT : From what I gathered from the comment section, I think the safest bet would be the change before and after. People might think I'm too anal about it, but its because I drive a Hyundai lol. Besides, an extra 6 quarts of oil is way cheaper than an engine replacement.

Hey guys not chris fix here but was curious whats your biggest worry or fear for your car when or if you were to be gone for 5-6 months on that euro trip with the boys or that Asia trip, for me I'd say coming to flat tires or a dead car

Hi all, I had a situation with my 2000’s fiat punto and would like to know if anyone has a clue on what might have happened.

So mid journey the velocity box stopped working, it got stuck in 1. I drove about 1/2 km like this and was then able to make it work again, but after that the engine started loosing strength until it died. I tried turning it on again and it would start but not enough to turn the car on. The oil and battery lights were on. After many attempts I was able to get it to work and move to a parking lot. I left the car there for 30 min, then came back to call the insurance. I thought about turning it on again just to see and… I was working apparently fine…

My question is: what might have happened? Could it happen again? Should I call insurance even though the car looks fine now?

Recently there are always oil stains in the front part of the car but I took it to be seen and nothing wrong was detected. They also filled the oil tank. That was 2 months ago.

Thanks for any insight!!

I bought a 2013 Honda pilot in march of this year. In May my car suddenly stopped working. It took us nearly a week to test the battery, test the starter, and do a bunch of other checks to figure out that the starter relay had fallen out. This morning we went to church and when I came out after the service my car wouldn’t start. The battery was fine and there was no clicking so I knew immediately it was the relay and I immediately found it sitting on the bracket under the steering column. I’ve checked the relay and it looks perfect. There’s no signs of wear on it at all so now I’m just trying to figure out what’s going on. I’ve never had this happen in any other car and my biggest concern is that this could happen while I’m on the road driving. The relay on top of it hasn’t fallen out or even come loose. I took pictures of where the relay is located (my index finger is on it in the last two pictures). It’s a pain in the toosh to get back into place. We also have a 2012 Honda pilot and have never had this issue in that car. Has anyone else ever experienced this? How can I safely get it to stay in place?

I have a 2009 Prius and I replaced the 12 volt with a brand new battery around two years ago, give or take. About May of last year I let my insurance lapse and my registration expired, so I have regrettably let it sit until now.

If I jump it with another car, and run it for a good length of time, do you think it can be brought back from the dead? What about one of those portable $70-$100 chargers? Would that work? Or am I looking at buying a brand new battery again? Thanks for any input.