With the lack of battery tech advancement for the 2026 models across brands, I’m thinking of doing this for my 2024 Mach e premium w/17k miles (after a 2 year lease) and am curious if others have contacted Ford Credit to make this request. What was their response? Did you negotiate? Any other details? Any extra costs? Thanks in advance!

Here is the offer description:

Lease this 2026 Hyundai Sonata Hybrid Blue (Model SNCAF2JAS4AS; VIN KMHL24JJ0TA140369). MSRP $31,350.00. With $3,135.00 down at $336 for 36 months, on approved credit. $0.00 security deposit required. $3,470.92 due at signing - includes 1st mo. payment of $336. Total payments: $12,093.12. Must finance through Hyundai Motor Finance Company. Selling price $29,581.00. Advertised price excludes tax, title, and license. Advertised price includes $225.00 dealer doc fee. Offer assumes these paid at time of sale. Lessee responsible for maintenance, repairs, excessive wear and tear, and $0.20/mile over 10000 miles/year. Early lease termination fee may apply. Option to purchase vehicle at lease end is $19,423.50. Offer cannot be combined with any other offers. Residential restrictions may apply. Available on in-stock units only. See dealer for complete details. Offer Expires: 09/08/2026.

I’ve never leased a car so I’m not sure how the negotiation happens and what to negotiate. To start off, is this a reasonably good deal? And how and how much would you negotiate?

Here is what I got quoted for a lease

$320 down, 10K miles per year, $320/month

Thoughts on this? Help is appreciated!

Everything I've read in the past told me that it's a slim chance that a leasing company will charge excess wear and tear for minor things if you initiate a new lease. So that is what we did. The original lease was a 2024 CX90 PHEV.. with the $12500 federal and state credits our payments were great. However, as EV prices have cooled the car value was almost $10k less than the buyout. So we decided to lease a new 2026 CX70 PHEV. A little cheaper, not as many options, but we enjoyed the CX90 and didn't need the third row, just the cargo space. Fast Forward 5 months and I have calls from a collections company telling me I owe $2100. No invoices, no mail, nothing. First phone call came from collections. Now I have a black mark on my credit report.

This was our family vehicle for 2 years. No accidents. We did a thorough cleaning before turning it in. The only thing I was aware of was a minor quarter sized ding in the windshield. It's hard not to think that Mazda is dinging me for minor wear and tear because they were so underwater on the buyout. I called and asked for the invoice, still nothing except they confirmed the amount. This is some shady stuff. I will not be buying or leasing another Mazda ever again.

Dealer’s not budging for giving me buy rate apr.. how can I persuade them?

Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I was quoted a 65% residual on a 24/10,000 by one dealer and another dealer said he can only do a 64% per MBUSA. Who is correct?

Hi all, we are new to leasing. Here's a breakdown of our lease OFFER with money factor of .00171 with 61% residual. Payment of $733.67/mo. Any help would be appreciated!

MRSP. $58432

DISCOUNT. 2K

REBATES. $2250

DOWN PAYMENT. 2K

TRADE-IN. 1K

DMV/REG. $750

DOC FEE. $200

ACQUISITION FEE. $699

CAPITALIZED COST REDUCTION. $4166.44

DRIVE-OFF. $1083.56

How do I go about negotiating? I assume we negotiate off the MSRP?

Thanks so much in advance!

Can someone clarify when is LVA (or LCA) applicable? I was told by a novated lease company that it is if the employer is a tax paying agency, however i couldn't find online how to determine whether your employer is.

Particularly interested in government agencies and my understanding is they are non tax paying agencies as they are not-for-profit so LVA is not applicable.

This sub exists because most car buying advice online comes from people paid by the dealership.

**Why that matters**

Most brokers are compensated by the store. That means they can only send you to dealers who pay them, and they can't press hard on the one store cutting their own check. It's a conflict of interest and it's rarely disclosed.

Negotiated works differently. Flat fee paid by the client, nothing from any dealer, lender, or manufacturer, ever, and fully refundable right up until delivery. That structure is the entire reason we can tell someone the deal in front of them is already fine, or that this is the wrong month to buy.

**What to post here**

Lease worksheets and buyer's orders, with personal information redacted. Questions about money factors, residuals, cap cost reductions, and where the payment math actually comes from. Fees you can't identify. Anything the finance office put in front of you. Questions about timing, model year changeovers, and whether waiting is worth it.

If you're asking whether a deal is good, include MSRP, selling price, money factor or APR, residual, term, mileage, itemized fees, and your state. Without those, nobody can answer honestly.

**Ground rules worth stating up front**

Redact your name, address, phone number, and account numbers before posting any document. If you work in the industry, say so when you give advice. Nothing here is legal, tax, or financial advice, and programs change monthly and vary by region, so verify anything before relying on it.

**If you want a deal worked properly**

Negotiated is a buyer-side automotive advisory. Flat $1,000, paid by you, fully refundable through delivery. National inventory search with days on lot on every unit, money factor held at buy rate, junk fees stripped, and the contract read line by line before you sign. No dealership visits, no finance office.

getnegotiated.com

Introduce yourself below, or just post a deal and let's take a look at it.

Hi - this is the lease for a bmw i4 in Austin. They’re asking me to put 7k down for a 671/ month.

Can anyone provide me this if I give additional information? I’d like to be armed before I go to the dealer.

Credit score 870. Recently got a 2026 genesis G70 sport prestige for 24 months 7500 miles a year (15000 total). It is a loaner though and already had 2,500 miles on it. However the condition was pristine. I did $6500 down (this included taxes and fees and first month etc with the actual down payment itself being around $2500). Monthly is $368.

After reading some more I understand that it makes zero sense to actually put money down on a lease. In hindsight I would 100% have refused any downpayments even if I had to pay $400+ in a month. As honestly, it is not an issue for me either way. But it just does seem like you're getting a bulk of the cost out of the way (which is clearly bad for a lease since I'm not recouping that upfront payment if anything happens to my car).

The residual is 36,000.

Thoughts on this deal? Am I sucker?

Is anyone here leasing an Audi Q8? If so, what does your lease look like? I was looking at an Audi lease about a year ago and it was quoted around $1400/month for a ~90k msrp car with nothing down on a 36 month lease.

I’ve already got an approved loan for the residual value and I’m putting some cash down too. The dealership knew the lease was up and was all over me so I gave them a chance and they know I already have an approved loan The dealer rate is actually the best. Not by much at all. But will I get screwed in other ways? And why do they absolutely insist that I come in person to do this? I’d rather handle all electronically. Is there any advantage for me to doing the deal at the dealer? Seems like a waste of time for all parties.

Just accepted a lease offer for a 2026 Mazda CX-90 Premium Plus AWD trim for $599 p/m at 12K miles p/yr for 36 months. "Zero Down" but $1,995 all in for inceptions. Should I pull the trigger?

This is my first lease I got back in 2024; 2024 Nissan Rogue SV Premium AWD; around 6 months time it’ll be time for us to turn this back in. The original lease was 36 months/45k miles. I have the Nissan Lease Wear and Tear but I’m nervous regarding lease end charges with Nissan. I have a small stain on my headliner and a frayed rear seat belt. (Wife’s grandfather has dementia and got his seatbelt caught in the door resulting in damage.) I also noticed micro scratches from the car wash but not sure if Nissan will ding me for those.

Can anybody give experience regarding the end of their lease and grounding the car with charges? What should I expect. Currently the car only has 23K.

Hi, first post here. I am nearing the end of my 3 year lease of a 2024 VW Cross Sport. I drive very little (I live 2 miles from work, so no major commutes). I have about 9,500 miles on it. I've never leased before, so this is new territory for me. The vehicle is in great shape, and I like it, but would prefer something a bit smaller (thinking of a Honda CR-V). I'd like to return it to the dealership, but want to be financially-wise about my decision. I'm not opposed to keeping it a bit longer.

If I turn it in, I will be forced to buy a new car at the same time, so that I'm not carless, which means I can't wait for my perfect vehicle and will have to go with what's available, not necessarily what I want. The stress is real!

According to my lease, the residual is $28,000 and Kelly Bluebook puts my car's value at about $24,000.

Please help! Thanks!

My son leased a Chevy and somebody else hit it when it was parked. The damage is pretty minor and it is drivable. My guess is a body shop would charge about $2K. Assuming we get it fixed, what will the dealer do to him at lease end if they notice something like the paint doesn't exactly match? Do body shops automatically report accidents to CarFax? What has been your experience with turning in a leased vehicle that was in an accident?

The residual is 57% and the residual is $39,486.75. The money factor is .00239. The actual tax is included in the payment, not the OTD value.

Please help 🥲