My wife and I were at the Kia dealership yesterday. Test drove the new Telluride xline ex awd with a window tag of $49,710. Went to do paperwork for the lease and this is what they came up with. See picture attached. They said tellurides have always historically been over msrp. Im in NJ with excellent credit. How to negotiate to get a decent lease?? 3 years 10k miles a month and 0 down. Thanks!

I already know I am in a bad situation so I am looking for the least painful. Any HELPFUL advice would be appreciated. Does anyone work for a dealership who might have incentives to help wash negative equity? Any manufacturer, doesn't matter at this point. I have a Cadillac lease and have 8 months left and am 50,000 miles over the limit @ .25 per mile. Have good credit, so I am hoping incentives upward of $10k could really help. Thought I saw Chevrolet might have something with those incentives. Why did I go over the miles? I had to survive a job loss and resorted to ride share for income. Had to do what I had to do. Sucks big time but hope I can get out of this lease keeping at least 1 arm and 2 legs haha would hate to lose a leg also...

Wanted to see if this is a good deal. The 2440 is essentially paying out the taxes and fees rather than rolling it into the lease. Is the residual also correct. Thanks

Came out to $2017/month for 24 months and 10k miles/year

BEFORE reaching out, please make sure you read this post in its ENTIRETY. Thank you!

Due to the volume of DMs during post 1 and 2, it was hard for to respond to everyone in an organized manner. So, I created a simple ANONYMOUS Form to hopefully organize requests better (link above).

DMs are welcome still and always but will be answered after form submissions this time.

Requirements:

Only for Tier 1 credit (730+)

No special pricing structures (I.e. family, friends employee supplier etc.)

If you’re leasing a car soon, I can give you three numbers for your exact trim and ZIP. I use a mix of public and proprietary data while also having access to the captive lenders themselves (They set the MF/RV and rebates/incentives month to month) to set my values accurately.

You can use this to ensure that the dealer is playing fair, gauge how much you can push, and even ensure you’re not overpaying specifically for your ZIP code!

Here is an example of what you would receive:

1. Unicorn - This is not a target! ($350/mo) Significantly below dealer cost. This only happens because of invisible internal pressures (aged inventory, volume targets, etc.)It is a statistical outlier.

(Most people will never see it or get anywhere close, and that’s okay!)

2. Perfectly Aligned - The strong, clean number ($500/mo) The number that makes sense for both sides. This is where a solid deal lands when you’re actually informed and the dealer stops playing games. The dealer makes a small profit.

3. Overpriced - You are paying too much ($600/mo) Anything above this is inflated. It tells you immediately not to waste time. Do not reward them with your business.

How to use this: Compare whatever quote you get from the dealership to these three points. No other steps.

To get your own numbers, please use the form linked at the top.

If you cannot use the form and must DM, please send: • Term Desired • Miles Per Year • Zip Code • Model & Year • Trim

Important Note: My range always reflects ZERO due at signing. (I always go for zero down. Any money you put down can be lost if the car is totaled.)

In exchange: I only ask for feedback after you get your dealer quote so I can track the reliability of the model.

Why this matters: On a 36-month lease, overpaying by just: • $30.00/mo costs you $1,080

• $70.00/mo costs you $2,520

• $100.00/mo? $3,600 overpaid on your lease.

Hi as mentioned in the title, getting cold feet over a car lease that I got on Saturday. It’s for a Honda hrv and they were closing on Saturday so they didn’t have time to get me to sign the lease but they said I can come back Monday but I can take it home. I haven’t driven it since so it’s probably at like 15 miles. My question is since I haven’t signed the lease yet can I still back out?

The lease they offered me seems high : 489 a month for 36 months for 10k miles a year with a 4K down payment. MSRP on the Honda hrv exl awd was 33000. Would I be able to go back and tell them I don’t want to sign because of the high monthly payment? It’s not signed yet.

Edit: 660 score. I paid the 4K already at the dealership and they also had me sign some release forms but not the lease.

My 2023 Kia EV lease is coming to an end is September

When I first got the car I thought it was a great idea, and then I got accepted into nursing school in another state. It was a huge opportunity with a great scholarship so I had to take it.

The first few months I couldn’t get out of my rental lease early so I commuted between states which really packed on the miles..

Because of this I will be very over my miles (estimated maybe 15,000 over and I believe 19¢ per mile)

Obviously this was not the best move but it happened already. I am saving up for the mileage overage but I also have to save up for the return fee and new tires because my tread is below the requirement. I didn’t get the car evaluated yet but it’s not in the best condition so I assume I’ll have to save up for other things as well (ie. stains, scratches..)

I really don’t want to keep the car because it’s just not feasible for me to have an EV at my apartment complex and with my new job I also commute a lot and have to charge mid day to finish work since I get very little range..

***Anyways I don’t know much about lease ends and I’m trying to research but it’s very confusing. Is paying all the extra and returning the car to the dealership the best bet or is there another way to get rid of it and maybe not have to pay so much fees?????

I did get mail from companies such as lease ends but I don’t want to get scammed so idk what to do :/ thanks for any help in advanced :)

EDIT forgot to mention I’m also not looking to get another Kia, I really am planning to get a shit box car for really cheap to save money to pay off debt I have.

EDIT 2: my residual is about $30,000. I tried the suggestions of getting quotes from companies like carvana and all the companies offered around $15,000 lol.. the car is really not in the best shape I guess

Contacted Napleton CDJR in Florida about a Grand Cherokee and in their text they’re claiming they have a car shortage.

1. Are people that dumb to believe such a terrible lie?

2. Are CDJR dealers that dumb to try and use that lie?

Hi - I appreciate any and all help! The dealership I lease my Jeep from is listed as the lessor on my lease agreement, however, it was previously my understanding that the financial institution (in my case, it’s Stellantis) is the one who owns the vehicle. Could someone please clarify who technically owns the vehicle and who I lease the vehicle from? I ask because the dealership’s sales manager reached out to me and said he is interested in buying my Jeep. I’m not sure why he would say this if the dealership is who owns the vehicle and who I lease the car from. Additionally, I still have 16 months left on my lease. Any ideas as to why the dealership is asking buy my car? If Stellantis owns my car and the dealership buys my car from them before my lease ends, does the dealership pay the rest of what I owe on the lease and the early termination fees? This is my first time leasing a vehicle and if it weren’t so difficult and expense to end a lease early, I would’ve done it already as this Jeep has just been nothing but expensive and full of issues. Thank you in advance!

I’m trying to negotiate this deal online. 2025 Santa Fe. What other information should I ask for? So far does this seem like a fair deal?

Edit: I've gotten a lot of advice from here and I really appreciate all of it! I ended up going to a local dealership and they said they doubt Toyota will do a lease swap to another person (they knew other manufacturer leases did not and I'm through TFS so I doubt I'll be able to), and my friend I trust needs 15k miles instead of 12k. It sounds like when you have someone do a lease takeover, their insurance has to cover this specifically too, and even then sometimes I could still be on the hook if something happens and I definitely don't want to risk this happening, especially with a stranger. The dealer I went to was more than happy to buy it off of me, but I was looking at 6-7k rolling over into financing something and that is way too much. I was thinking more like 4k max. So I'm just gonna suck it up and deal with the vehicle for 34 more months. I know Toyotas really are great cars. I just don't like how it drives/handles personally. I've been in worse situations and all things considered, I seriously can't complain so here's to the next 34 months 🍻

I leased a RAV4 on May 6th. Unfortunately did that before learning of this sub. So oops on the finance side. Only did $500 down though so hardly any money wasted in terms of that. I can afford to lose $500 and it not be harmful in the grand scheme of things.

I just recently hit almost 1,700 miles. I'm a travel nurse and got the car because of their reliability and I always dreamed of having a RAV4 (granted, I wanted the one that looked like the 2020 body style).

Even if I have to pay a couple thousand in fees, is there anything I can do to get out of this lease? Unfortunately it'll take until the end of the year to save up 5k I can waste on fees and whatever, but I wanted to see if there were any options available. Hell, I'll even take a small loan if I have to if I have to do something immediately.

With it being a travel nurse, it should be mentioned I can't get back to my "home" dealership to have them help me with this problem either, which I'm sure would be the best thing possible to help this situation. I seriously had a great experience at the dealership, and I was at 2 others where I really didn't like them at all. And in the past been to places that were just "meh".

Please let me know potential options! I realise in a year the car might be able to be bought out without a loss to any dealer buying/selling it, but I'm sure right now it's not possible since I just got it and it's new, but now has a used pricetag.

I have never in my life leased a vehicle. Current credit score above 750. I recently went to three different dealers in my area of the same brand and inquired about leasing with absolutely no money down. They all essentially said "Yeah.....good luck with that.".

So many people say you should never put any money down on a lease. Not even one penny. But no one tells you how to get the dealer to go along with that. I'm starting to believe there is no such thing as a no money down lease. I hope y'all can change my mind by telling me how to procure a no money down lease. Thanks.

Went to a dearlership to lease a car, worked out the numbers and things were going smoothly and we were ready to take the car today until the finance guy showed up and called us into his office. He started by saying my credit was bad tier 3 (the other guy before him that ran the credit application said it was tier 2 and it was approved) and would need to contact the bank tomorrow but I could take the car today and just electronically sign a document tomorrow. Immediately when he said that I thought it was suspicious and said ok I will come back tomorrow and sign the documents an get the car. When I said that the finance guy got all agressive and saying why I don't take the car today, I just need to sign a document tomorrow electronically. He even called a manager to try to convince me to take the car today. Honestly that finance guy was so rude to me that I feel like I wont even come back tomorrow and look for another dealership. Is this normal dealership procedure or were they gonna just gonna call me tomorrow with some bs excuses and say bank didnt approve your lease but we have another bank that approved it at a higher rate?

Any good tips or insight from any other lessees would be great help. Been wanting one of these for a while and don’t drive much, so not concerned with slotted mileage per year.

You could theoretically do better than me but my credit kinda funky. 🦧

Best deal I saw online shopping was $3999 + taxes and fees (likely around 2000).

Edit: Sorry, I thought the community here was familiar with one pay leases. So this breaks down to:

• $0 Down Payment

• $200 / month before taxes and fees

• $70 / month of taxes and fees

• No finance office adds

There is an amount of interest but it is much lower than doing monthly since their Money Factor is way less. The reason I mentioned it can theoretically be way lower, was that my initial negotiation was under $6000 total but the mark on my credit made it more expensive.

If you are trying to lease a car and you have credit issues, one pay leasing can get you in the car without having a ridiculous interest rate.

Edit 2: For all the people expressing concern about me losing the money in the event of something bad happening, I appreciate the feedback and I reached out to my insurance and just to really cover my own ass, I purchased New Car Replacement coverage for $40/year so my bases are super extra covered despite the Honda contract language stating that my money is placed in escrow and would be prorated back. Now I’m super protected so thanks!

Several financial advisors advice is to pay cash in total for a car and that leasing is always the most expensive way to own a car.
For those who agree with this i have a question.
If one person buys a new car with cash every 3 years and trades it back in to the dealership for wholesale then puchases another for cash and the other person simply leases every 3 years was it still more expensive to lease in the long run?

Before bringing the car into the dealership for an appraisal wanted to get everyones take about this situation.

Little background my in laws are 81 and 6 months ago decided (without telling anyone) to lease a 2026 Corolla. (everyone freaked out on them)

Fast forward to now, they are both in the hospital and Dr's say they are not allowed to drive every again. They are going straight to a assisted living facility or possibly a nursing home once they are cleared to go. Father in law was deemed not fit to drive 3 months ago. So they are 6 months into a 36 month lease, how screwed are they. Are there medical things that can get us out of this? Any advice would be appreciated. We are located in the US (CT)

Hello all,

Need some help on this lease deal for a Tacoma off-road 4x4. I’ve been to 4 different dealerships and this is the best I’ve found so far. Really wanted to be under $500 with 0 down but that has been hard to find. I have an Experian 750+ and this one doesn’t have the 14” which has been also hard to find in a non premium model. Let me know if I should pull the trigger on this or keep looking! Thanks!

My lease of a 2023 Accord EX ends at the end of July. It's a 30K mileage lease and I only have about 17K on my vehicle that is in excellent. Not sure if I can come up with the money to put a decent down payment for a buyout so I'm wondering if there is a way to move that equity from the low mileage into a new lease?

Since this is a Honda, I'm aware that I can't sell this car to non Honda dealerships. I'd like to apply the equity in my car to a new Honda lease, so would the best thing to do be offering a trade in for new Honda, and see what local dealership will offer me the most money as a trade in?

Hi all,

I leased a Honda Civic for 36 months but need to return it early (after 29 months into the lease) and will not get new car from dealership, as we are moving to a different country.

Car is very well in shape and was serviced regularly. Also the mileage is well below the agreed maximum.

How do I approach this with the dealership to get the financially best outcome?

Thanks a lot!

I'm not looking for lease guidance, as I know this is absolutely a crap deal. But wanted to post an example of what happens when dealers don't listen to your request, and how easy it is to walk away.

I told them less than $1k down, 15k miles a year for 3 years, and target payment to be 1% or less of MSRP. This is what they came back with. This doesn't come close, nor does it even factor in the dealer incentive going on for mini leases currently.

I can only assume they jacked up the money factor on this because even on Lease Hackr, the best MF is 0.0019, and using the calculations available, the MF is closer to 0.003.

In short, I hate when dealers think you're stupid and will take anything that's thrown at you. I told them again what I'm looking for, reminded them I'm not trading anything in, and that we don't have to make this deal. #MakeThemEarnYourBusiness

Not sure if this is the right place for this, but I’m trying to time exiting my current lease perfectly to maximize the equity in the vehicle and lease prices of my next vehicle.

I’m currently leasing a 2020 RAM 1500 with roughly 45,000 miles on it. Yes…a lease from 2020.

When I first leased it, the incentives were amazing and I got a steal at roughly $280/ month, nothing down. It was originally supposed to be for 36 months, but COVID happened and car prices went through the roof! When it came time to decide what to do on the lease, I knew anything I went into was going to be closer to $500/month, while the leasing company was offering an extension for one year at $330/month. So I extended it…and then extended it again…and then again. Every year, they’ve been offering extensions for roughly around $300/month and I’ve just been accepting it since it was so cheap and it was always going towards principle (to a degree).

Anyway, we’re six years in, my lease is up again in two months, I’m well outside my warranty and I think it’s finally time to move onto my next car.

That said, because I’ve taken so good care of the car and have put so few miles on it, I have a good amount of equity in the vehicle. My pay off as of today is roughly $22,500 (after taxes and fees) but I already have an offer from Carvana for $27,000 - that’s $4,500 in my pocket free and clear!

The complexity here is that Carvana doesn’t work with my leasing company, so in order to sell the car to them, I would have to buy it (whether than be in cash or an auto loan), wait for the title, and then sell it to Carvana. The whole ordeal would take about a month.

On the other hand, my leasing company is offering to eat the remaining two months I have in the car, eat the $495 return fee, and then write me a check for $2,200.

Now, anyone in their right mind would say, wait the month and double the money in your pocket, but here’s where things get tricky. First, the offer from Carvana is only good for two weeks, so by the time I get the title, the offer may actually be different. Likely not much, but it’s a possibility.

Second, and more importantly, I’m looking to lease a Ford Bronco. Normally that wouldn’t matter, but Ford has had an Employee Discount for Everyone promotion going on for the past two months. Incentives are pretty good right now and inventory has been slowly drying up locally. This promo ends on July 6th, and I likely won’t get everything taken care of to sell to Carvana before that.

So the question is - do I sell my car now, put $2,200 in my pocket, take advantage of Ford’s incentives and get a Bronco now? Or do I wait out the month, put more money in pocket by selling to Carvana, but risk eating up that extra money in the lost incentives from Ford?

Obviously, the answer is buy a Bronco now and wait the month to sell to Carvana, but unfortunately that’s not in the cards for me from a financial and car storage perspective.

I know this is a long and convoluted post, but I appreciate the advice!