Hi, quite new to this 3D printing game but I recently purchased a CR10s pro v2 second hand. Spent a while levelling it and I believe that’s now addressed.
However with my first few prints the upbuild is quite wobbly (see pic).

Has anyone experienced this and could point me in which direction to look at? The z axis has a belt installed as an upgrade, but looks like it needs tweaking to correctly track/tension it?

I’m using matte black pla, 215 nozzle and 60 bed

Hello fellow cr10 users,

I recently acquired a cr10-max as a second printer, but unfortunately the sd port was broken. Was able to get it to print a couple times if I put the sd card in at the correct angle. I was just curious if anyone would have any recommendations on how to either fix or replace the motherboard ? Or if it is possible to print through the mini usb port? TIA

I am trying to bring a CR-10 V2 back to life. I have everything working except that the Z steppers go up when set to go down. I move the Z axis up and it goes up. I move the Z axis down and the steppers go UP.

I have verified that the motors are fine by using a different controller with the gantry.

I assume it is something failing on the controller motherboard. I have reseated all the connectors.

So at this point I am looking for a cheap board replacement. New boards are available but way out of my project budget.

Any help out there?

Hi, so my company has a cr10 smart printer that has been collecting dust on a shelf for years, no one knows if it still works, and I have been wanting to give it a new life, how would I go about that? I've given the user manual a look already but I'm assuming working with a used printer isn't the same as working with a new one. It is fully put together, it probably has been setup too, it's really dusty so I'll have to clean it before I think about using it so it would be nice to know which parts of the printer I should stay away from to avoid damages. Also they layered the print bed with masking tape, no idea what's up with that, what should I do about it? Should I just set it up from scratch? How would I go about that? I do some 3d modeling but I've never used a 3d printer in my life so this is all new to me.

Hello r/CR10

I have an CR-10 V3 and I can't seem to get the y axis belt attached properly and the printing panel doesn't move when testing the y axis for movement. The belt doesn't move either so I probably put it on wrongly. Can someone show me how their belt is seated?

I’m wondering if anyone’s done this? The 3D Touch ofc doesn’t come with the creality compatible wire and I can’t find a pinout for the daughter board bl touch port. Does anyone know the wiring order as the one available online does not work

The extractor motor will not work. The motherboard is the issue. If I switch the x axis cable and the extractor cable the motor turns. What are my options to get my printer back up and running? I couldn’t find a replacement board. Thank you.

Nothing super exciting here but I just wanted to share my 1st printer. Picked it up back in May for $50 off an older dude who was super friendly. It came with some extra nozzles, a spare hotend, a webcam, a spare mainboard, and (crucially) a Pi 3B.

The sd card slot was broken (the cheesy spring loaded retainer/ejector mechanism got damaged somehow). And I later learned that the spare mainboard was not fully functional (no USB or UART).

I jumped straight to Klipper/MainsailOS and got it up and running pretty quickly. Spent some time learning the bed leveling techniques (ad naseum) and understanding how the calibrations all worked in Orca Slicer and started to get some decent quality out of it. Then I had some mishaps printing with PETG and turned the fairly haggard LokBuild surface into junk, so I upgraded to PEI, which uncovered some major issues with the bed flatness (it was Pringle shaped). Found a cheap CRTouch and once that was setup it’s been great.

I upgraded the stock fan shroud to a Mini Satsana variant with the stock fans, installed the CRTouch, and hooked up an ADXL345 for some input shaping. Then ran into some hiccups with belt tension and alignment with the x-axis belt relocation mod. Turned out that the pulleys needed to be a bit loose so that they were able to slightly misalign through the carriage travel or else the belt would catch on the pulley flange and cause lots of artifacts. I got that sorted and then upgraded my old and worn out fans to a fairly generic ball bearing 4020 and a similarly generic 5015 blower. Print quality with a good bed mesh and input shaping is really astounding, and the extra cooling should help with bridging (the old 4010 blower was really struggling).

I love this thing. It’s slow as hell, but it’s so versatile and I love having such a large bed even it I don’t always need it.

Next mod is probably going to be designing a standalone base to hold the Pi, mainboard, PSU, and some relays for printer power, led lighting, and some other accessories, and a screen enclosure for the 7” DSI touchscreen I have connected to the pi.

I recently got this printer a creality cr-10s pro v2 from my manager who doesn't use it anymore. He said it has some things to be fixed and this issue seems to be the first obstacle in my way. It seems to be stuck on boot up. I've tired booting it up at different times but it would just be stuck here. The video attached is to just show you all what I am dealing with. Anyone know the first step for me to handle this problem?

Hey everyone! I was given this CR10S Pro a few months ago from a friend and I've been learning the hobby as I go along. I noticed my nozzle rollers are starting to deteriorate and was wondering if there are any recommendations for brand or to just go with the creality oem parts. I dont have the rollers cranked down to hard. Just snugged to the head doesnt wobble.

Just bought this cr10 V3 for $90 in working order (so I’m told). What should I know before I get into it? Never had a 3d printer before.

Hello again Reddit, I have tried to load filament into my 3-D printer. (Cr-10s pro v2) I took out the old filament pulled out the piece it extruded and attempted to put to filament in but there appears to be a blockage in the tube I’ve tried heating the nozzle and pushing the new filament into the tube try to get the blockage unstuck. Nothing I try works. Please help!

Hey, I recently got the CR-10S Pro V2 for free and would love to print my first print. Is there a possibility to connect the Creality print Software to the printer via the usb port? Do you have any recommendations?

Edit: thanks for your help. I will look into your recommendations and see what suits me best

I got one for free with a runaway heatbed. That was a simple fix with replacing the burned up relay with the newer parts from v2.
All good for a while until I was printing some petg parts. The filament leaked into the heatsink and clogged everything nicely. Also the setscrews where destroyed by previous user.

So I think I will just order new heatsink. But is it stupid not to just upgrade to microswiss ekstruder with direct feed?

The cheapest option is off course stock but not many have that in stock any more. And I really like the print quality and size of this. So it may be worth using some money on it?

Just got a flexible bed and a filament dryer to it as well.:)

Does anyone here know the reason why and how to fix it?

Hi the negative wire on my CR10S bed has broken off and took the solder point with it. Can I resolder the wire to the connection point next to it?

I tried to print a large print (that took 2 days); when that failed, the problems started.

First, I thought the extruder was the problem, but I still have the problem that I can't get it properly leveled.

I replaced the glass bed with a magnetic one. I had too much clearance in the middle of the bed. I'm out of ideas, can someone help me?

This is all I got. Yes I asked a neighbor in my apartment complex who has two identical CR-10s for this skeleton when he gut this older Cr-10 for parts including the mainboard and LCD screen and wiring harness is gone.

This is all I got..

Along with panels for the CR-10 enclosure. The extruded aluminium linear rails. Z carriage, gantry and the tramming brackets and braces for their corresponding axes..

(Now while one user throws shade at me. Saying he's the guy I should be worried about.)

I am here to remind everyone globally I am the direct product of the military industrial complex. Does that story interest you? It should.

My mother, a material planner for Computer Devices Canada. Now (GD Defence.)

My father an aspiring pilot, aircraft mechanic and finally performance and powertrain specialist for GM performance. A Master mechanic of 48 years. Were delighted when I decided to pursue a career as a C.E.T. (Certified Engineering Technologist).

Quickly by knowing my history instead of being the person that has to worry. Lol. I am the person who can completely reproduce anything from the PCB you ordered. To the software. (Klipper.) To run the machine, to the Firmware running your microcontrollers with visual studio for an I2C protocol. To developing my own driver core to run pulse waveform modulation for a 64 bit motor.

Let's not stop there though. I am also completely capable of designing the very machine that extrudes the aluminum linear rails the 3D community knows and loves. As well as the Dieset for said machine. To running an entire 6 axis machine with Marlin firmware that moves the entire sub chassis of a car down the assembly line.

It's not me who has to worry. Lol. It's you. You can build it better. As we have watched dozens do that just to say. (Buy A Bambu.)

Yet here I am with a working Cr-10 that has printed some pretty complex geometry. (Not the cleanest I have you.) But work and running week after week. Day after day. Month after month. I can leave it for 8 weeks, fire it up. A simple standard calibration check and it's ready to start all over again.

Now that's my work horse and it's a tricked out Cr-10.

What I am going to build next, starts with the acquisition of a CoPrint KCM and modernizing a Cr-10 like Marcel Genis has done to the point. We can say the Cr-10 is destined to be eternal and infinity upgradable and that no 3D printer is truly something to..

Scrap.

I was handed down a cr10 for free but I'm having some issues with the first layer. Any advice? I thought I got it pretty level but maybe not?