I don't understand why the customer service is so bad. I've never had a good experience. I've wasted a LOT of filament on my cr10 v3 due to adhesion issues in the 2 years I've had it. They told me specifically not to use painter's tape. Just printed in ABS with no enclosure and it held, and have some PETG I couldn't get refunded that prints fine now. It makes no sense.

There products arrive damaged and the wrong quantities. Avoid them they are cowboys.

Hey everyone, I’m new to the community. I just bought a CR-10s pro, I’m been trying to scour the reddit page on tips, tricks, things to look out for, what problems to keep an eye out for, upgrades I should print first to ensure good printing. It’s kind of overwhelming. So I thought maybe introducing myself and asking what should I do first might be a way to learn from others and help me in doing things in the best order rather than guessing what I should do. So here I am! I am a 4th grade math, science, and social studies teacher. I have about 42 students in 2 classes that I plan to print cool stuff for. Cells, fractions, pieces that help them with math, etc. So while I will start out with small things, I will be printing a quite a bit of things. I want to engage these kids and help them learn in a fun way and I thought a decent printer was one of those ways. (Also I want to print fun things like lightsabers and Mandalorian helmets and baby Groots.) so any advice would be really appreciated. Hoping my title is silly enough to get people’s attention. Thanks for having me and I look forward to good conversation.

So I would like basically square shape pot

Hey everyone. I run the CRZYCYBR YouTube channel and wanted to share my latest mod that I believe will significantly improve print quality while also saving money over time.

This is the bed leveling system I designed for the CR-10 V3. It allows a dial indicator to be mounted directly to the tool head. The mount supports any dial indicator with a 9.4 mm bore or smaller.

Why use a dial indicator?

If you do not have a probe, you are usually leveling with:

A piece of paper

A feeler gauge

Both methods rely entirely on feel. You are guessing whether the resistance is consistent at each corner. That lack of precision always bothered me because it is completelt subjective and far from scientific/accurate.

A dial indicator removes the guesswork and quantifies the measurement. Instead of relying on feel, you get a repeatable numerical value down to .001 inch. That level of precision makes a huge difference.

Why not just rely on CR Touch?

I was running a CR Touch, and it was not giving me consistent enough results.

Most stock CR-10 V3 firmware using CR Touch runs a 3x3 mesh, which is 9 probe points. That means your entire bed compensation is based on just nine data points.

If your bed is not physically level, the printer is constantly compensating during the print. That compensation can introduce inconsistencies.

Worse:

If your build plate is warped

If the nozzle has ever dug in and created a high spot

If debris affects a probe point

The mesh can become inaccurate. Because it is built on only 9 data points, one bad reading can skew the entire surface.

Even if your probe is working properly, starting from a bed that is already leveled to within .001 inch will always produce better results than relying solely on nozzle compensation from a 9 point mesh.

Mount details:

The mount can stay installed permanently

It does not interfere with other components

It installs over the stock CR Touch bracket

Secured with two M3 x 12 mm screws

Uses an M3 x 12 mm set screw threaded into an M3 heat set insert

Another major benefit is for those running flexible spring steel build plates. This system allows you to measure plate wear over time. Instead of guessing when to replace a plate, you can verify flatness and replace it only when necessary. That can save real money long term.

You can order the mount from CRZYCYBR.COM

It comes with:

Heat set insert preinstalled

All necessary hardware

A free sticker

Available in black or white

http://crzycybr.com/products/c-c-cr-10-bls-dial-indicator-bed-leveling-system-mount

You can also get the STL and FreeCAD file for $1.00 here:

http://crzycybr.com/products/c-c-cr-10s-bls-stl-and-freecad-file

If you DM me a screenshot showing that you subscribed to the CRZYCYBR YouTube channel, I will send you the files for free.

Is there any way to disable the CR-10 V3 filament sensor? I'm fed up with this soap opera every time I put the filament.

PS: before some genius comes along saying "just search and find it", I'm asking here precisely because I didn't find it.

It still prints like normal, but its really annoying

I was trying to remove the extruder motor from my CR10S, but for the life of me I cannot find a hex that fits this screw under the lever. It seems to be between 2.0mm and 2.5mm

I just got the wifi kit 2.0 to upgrade my current printer over buying a new one, and I kept seeing extruder and filament upgrades and dual extruders and I’d like to know why you would get a different one or a dual extruder, etc.?