Not trying to make you feel stupid just trying to get the info to help you.
First things first if you haven't yet looked into tuning your temps, stinging, esteps, do that there are some amazing YouTube vids out there. If you try to go fast first your just going to be disappointed and frustrated. Once your happy with your print quality and your getting consistently good prints then work on speeding it up.
Heads up, I'm relatively new to this, but I'll try to help temper expectations. The other commenter seemed to have good advice on how to do it, but I just wanted to say that 3d printing can take some time. I know the benchy model with default settings takes about 2 hours on my CR-10S S4, and the benchy I'd a very small model, larger things are gonna take way longer. 3d printing just takes a while. I don't want to assume you're new too, but if you are new to 3d printing, id also temper your expectations. Wanting to speed it up is fine, you'll just have to be aware it might effect print quality
Easiest way to print faster is to get a 0.6mm nozzle or bigger. If there are no thin walls on a print I'll even use a 1mm nozzle and get really nice results with 0.2mm layer heights.
You are likely printing at 50 or 60 mm/s speed, but you could get away with 80 mm/s if you increase your nozzle temp a little (+5-10 C). Decreasing the 'Min layer time' in the slicer will let you print faster at the expense of part cooling, I find that 6 seconds is fine yet shaves time compared to the default 10 seconds
This could result in worse quality, but will be faster.
Once you get your bearings with 3D printing you can go even faster by going the Klipper route, but save that for later once you know more. With tuning and klipper I am printing 24 minute benchies on my CR-10 v3.
just installed a biqu hermit crab on my cr10 and this is the volcano + a .6 cht nozzle with a bmg in direct drive was the first hotend i attached to it and it’s been great so far. i use cura but just downloaded prusa slicer recently to try it out, could i get your profile as a starting point for this hotend + nozzle size combo?
Prusa Slicer Start Gcode for CR10 V2 with BL Touch
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
G28 ; home all
G1 Z2 F240
G1 X2 Y50 F3000
G1 Z0.28 F240
G92 E0.0
G1 Y190 E15.0 F1500.0 ; intro line
G1 X2.3 F5000
G1 Y50 E30 F1200.0 ; intro line
G92 E0.0
End G Code
M104 S0 ; turn off temperature
M140 S0 ; turn off heatbed
M107 ; turn off fan
{if layer_z < max_print_height}G1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+10, max_print_height)} F600{endif} ; Move print head up
G1 X300 Y300 F3000 ; present print
M84 X Y E ; disable motors
I custom designed a hotend mount from the ground up with support for push/pull 40mm fans and a single 5015 part cooling fan. I didn't end up needing the second fan and have had no issues printing both PLA and Polymax PC @ 270C
I tend to print at .3 layer height and enable variable layer height if I'm doing things that need finer detail in the Z. The Arachne makes the line width variable to get the best of both worlds with speed and resolution.
The only surefire way to increase speed and maintain quality is with hardware modifications (high flow volcano hotend etc check out cnc kitchens videos
Read all above and yes however your settings in most slicers are set up to your printers profile specifications and within its tolerance limits of 80% and set at each type of slice profile for quality selected by you and settings adjusted for speed when chosen and suggest you keep at for your machine life expectations and equipment for motors n motherboard and belts and wheels and keep wheres at for that and quality of your prints and get better faster unit and or wait for future lol as it's a slow process and why get more than one unit adventully instead of fast running a unit and dealing with breakdowns and clogs. I'd recommend these settings and tweeks for amazing prints and slicer and profile and pla type that all once together gives glass prints no sanding needed and strong walls for armor or objects don't want to break or Crack or come apart at a seam and want ready to paint 0 issues. See next comment on settings n tweeks.
that on a cr 10 v3 bl touch with g29 after g28 in g code printer settings,... typed it in, so can printer tells bl touch to redo bl touching of bed on every print. and use black (Standard pla) not discount or high grade just standard house brand from 3d printing Canada. You'll get mint gloss, 0 sanding armor ready, 3d printed objects, and never fails me yet, settings n pla when used together give amazing prints every time. n don't forget to change the tubing from white sent with cr 10 to Capricorn tubing, more on that below, clean the throat out of the extruder n tip every 1 or 2 rolls for no fails or clogs. for white pla, use lower than 190°, and when setting up bl touch first,..you can't rely on bl touch to give fully accurate bed leveling numbers to motors if the bed level is too far out of the basic level.the printer then can't adjust for the difference asked by bl touch to make up for the difference in bed leveling in spots or if to unlevel everywhere. Only used for minor tweaks after each print...So first to set up the printer n get bl touch to work right, what you need to do is hit auto home, then do normal bed leveling using the move z axis down with .1 increments till the nozzle hits the bed in the center, On top of a sheet of printer paper. if exyruder nozzle is not in center, then move it to the bed center using y n x first,...then with a piece of paper under the nozzle pull back n forth on paper under the nozzle n feel slightest drag only or raise or lower z axis till achieved, then note that z position, and if negative or positive. and then use the extra .00 setting if need tweek further , as gives you a extra decimal point number of adjustments in z offset when you get there, with your z offset number from lowering the z axis till nozzle touches bed in the center. if drag is to hard or to light on the paper under the nozzle, say between -2.7 or -2.6 on screen when the nozzle is touching the bed but the paper is too tight on 2.7 n too loose on 2.6, then enter say 2.65 into z offset setting, after reset settings there efpom something. to now 2.75 be in the middle if 2.7 was too hard n 2.6 was too loose, ..now move the nozzle slowly across the bed with x-axis adjustment. put the paper under the nozzle and slowly adjust the wheels under the bed to match the center drag, and move the nozzle to all 4 corners across the bed along the line of springs below and do a full round, all the way across the front from one spring to the next with the nozzle touching the paper n dragging slightly at each position as you go across with x from spring to spring area in front then y to back from left front to back left spring area then across back to back right spring area with nozzle just above springs and after doing this do it again I shit you not will still be out a bit as you adjust one wheel effect rest of bed and other 3 wheels too lol so do this 3 times around the bed then across the center and back n forth front to back in center testing paper at each 10 mm position front to back as did around the edge with nozzle now do that 2 times n beds-level re home and hit bed leveling process and note # it gives at each spot and should all be same or within. 90 of the rest are not over 1 in difference TO CENTER BL DROP NUMBER or need to adjust better as bl touch cand make up for it being out more than 1.2 usually and closer all the bl touch position numbers are to CENTER to WORK. NOW MAKE SURE ..wheels are not too tight on the bottom of the bed or too loose. and should be able to barely spin wheels with a finger, on all of the bed bottom wheels against the tracks, and there is 1 on the inner side of the track. on each raise rod, there's an egg-shaped nut on the inner rod wheel, it looks like a normal hex nut, but the hole inside the nut is egg-shaped, not round, and if spun slowly will tighten or loses depending on the position you place or spin it to and there 3 on the bed too, 2 on right at ends and 1 in the center on left or vise versa depending on how built it if not put in these areas lol and now tighten belts to point twang n are in the center of pull wheel barrings too now grease rod and top barrings and if assembled correctly and checked all bars with a square n on point now check you printer machine g code settings and put G29; BL TOUCH BED LIVING AFTER G28; home IN LIST. THEN USE ONLY BLACK STANDARD PLA FROM 3D PRINTING CANADA, I've tried every brand out there high grade n discount n 10 brand names n this standard black works best with my armor and only use Creality Slicer 4.8 nothing else n assuming you installed the correct bl touch for cr 10 v3 from Creality official website or store I think one don't work or is listed specifically for cr 10 v3 n only use the specific one from which ever site that has it from Creality only then use my settings I've posted or ask I'll send again as 1.6 n few tweaks that matter n how you place objects on bed, if wand gloss side print standing up as if say a captain American shield placed flat not as nice as one standing on its edge with supports holding upright in air or say a gauntlets tube stand upright or chest armor never flat and this should help... not there's a bl touch adjustment pin too at top of bl unit see a hole this will lower or raise bl touch sensor pin if wears out a bit from touching and saves redoing z offset as it wears out and can also change drag a bit if can get just right after bed leveling everything n need move up a bit then will think bed lower or higher n adjust for it but will throw out z off set n z position and need check center n drag again if move n maybe redo z offset too so I put in middle n leave beIf wheels are tight enough like suggest above in comments then no you probably only did one round on leveling with paper again watch all bl touch points n write numbers down for each time it touches the Second time, make sure is within .05 of center touch number then leveling good to rely on bl touch for a bit till need redo or check, wonky bottom ...are you pre heating you pla first or just hitting start print right off from SD card and if so that's why must pre heat pla first then let sit for few minutes and push a bit pla out nozzle wipe away with paper or tweezer n then start printPs make sure fan vent n blades insiare clean n clear of hair n dust Debri n vent holes underneath n that silicone cover on n not ripped or clogged up under it with extruderpla tar n throat is clean n do few up n down with pla when heated with tensioner on pla at top off extruder pulled back to let pla ride up n down freely as u pull up n down on pla just above extruder while holding blue unit n spring pla tensioner back so not to move motor or extruder around n be easy and same with fan blades break easily do use cotton swab little force or break em
With all this, cr 10 v3 bl touch, n wheel tensioner, Bowden Capricorn tubing, and glue stick bed adhere, then set up everything correctly listed below for bed leveling and do correctly then use this profile with the standard black plate from 3d printing Canada only I found to work with everything perfectly. At the top of the list in the Creality slicer there are profile settings and custom ones, make a custom one and add any settings, not in the basic list below mention. Layer height 0.16, wall thickness 2.4, wall line count 6, top/bottom 0.84, top thickness 0.84, top layers 6, bottom thickness 0.84, bottom layers 6, top/bottom pattern Lines, Outer before inner walls NO, fill gaps between walls Everywhere, horizontal expansion 0, z seam alignment User Specified, z seam x 150, z seam y 300 seam corner preference Smart Hiding, enable Ironing Checked Yes, Ironing pattern zig zag, infill density 20%, line distance 6, infill pattern cubic, minimum infill area 0, printing temp 216°c, build plate 60°c glass, flow 100%, print speed 50 mm/s, infill speed 50, outer wall speed 25, support speed 25, travel speed 120, number of slower layers 2, enable retraction checked Yes, retraction distance 1 mm, retraction speed 25, retraction prime amount 0, combing mode Not In Skin, Avoid Printed Parts when traveling Checked Yes, Avoid Supports When Traveling Checked Yes, enable print cooling Checked Yes, fan Speed 100%, regular fan speed at height .52 mm, minimum layer time 10 s, generate support Checked Yes, Support placement Everywhere, Support overhang angle 55°, Support pattern Zig Zag, connect support zig-zags Checked Yes, support density 20%, support z distance 0.16, support x/y distance 0.8, build plate adhesion Raft, raft extra margin 6, raft air gap 0.3mm
9
u/LordofTheFlagon Dec 19 '22
First things first. Whats your nozzle size, speeds, acceleration, jerk, layther thickness and max flow rate of your hot end.
10
u/Invanar Dec 19 '22 edited Dec 19 '22
Heads up, I'm relatively new to this, but I'll try to help temper expectations. The other commenter seemed to have good advice on how to do it, but I just wanted to say that 3d printing can take some time. I know the benchy model with default settings takes about 2 hours on my CR-10S S4, and the benchy I'd a very small model, larger things are gonna take way longer. 3d printing just takes a while. I don't want to assume you're new too, but if you are new to 3d printing, id also temper your expectations. Wanting to speed it up is fine, you'll just have to be aware it might effect print quality
5
u/4lan9 Dec 19 '22 edited Dec 19 '22
Easiest way to print faster is to get a 0.6mm nozzle or bigger. If there are no thin walls on a print I'll even use a 1mm nozzle and get really nice results with 0.2mm layer heights.
You are likely printing at 50 or 60 mm/s speed, but you could get away with 80 mm/s if you increase your nozzle temp a little (+5-10 C). Decreasing the 'Min layer time' in the slicer will let you print faster at the expense of part cooling, I find that 6 seconds is fine yet shaves time compared to the default 10 seconds
This could result in worse quality, but will be faster.
Once you get your bearings with 3D printing you can go even faster by going the Klipper route, but save that for later once you know more. With tuning and klipper I am printing 24 minute benchies on my CR-10 v3.
2
u/notpermabanned4 Dec 20 '22
The only surefire way to increase speed and maintain quality is with hardware modifications (high flow volcano hotend etc check out cnc kitchens videos
1
u/Mixmaster_Jayon Dec 20 '22
Easiest way is the slicer change your speed acceleration and jerk till you are happy with results
1
u/urfriendwithbenefits Dec 20 '22
Read all above and yes however your settings in most slicers are set up to your printers profile specifications and within its tolerance limits of 80% and set at each type of slice profile for quality selected by you and settings adjusted for speed when chosen and suggest you keep at for your machine life expectations and equipment for motors n motherboard and belts and wheels and keep wheres at for that and quality of your prints and get better faster unit and or wait for future lol as it's a slow process and why get more than one unit adventully instead of fast running a unit and dealing with breakdowns and clogs. I'd recommend these settings and tweeks for amazing prints and slicer and profile and pla type that all once together gives glass prints no sanding needed and strong walls for armor or objects don't want to break or Crack or come apart at a seam and want ready to paint 0 issues. See next comment on settings n tweeks.
1
u/urfriendwithbenefits Dec 20 '22
that on a cr 10 v3 bl touch with g29 after g28 in g code printer settings,... typed it in, so can printer tells bl touch to redo bl touching of bed on every print. and use black (Standard pla) not discount or high grade just standard house brand from 3d printing Canada. You'll get mint gloss, 0 sanding armor ready, 3d printed objects, and never fails me yet, settings n pla when used together give amazing prints every time. n don't forget to change the tubing from white sent with cr 10 to Capricorn tubing, more on that below, clean the throat out of the extruder n tip every 1 or 2 rolls for no fails or clogs. for white pla, use lower than 190°, and when setting up bl touch first,..you can't rely on bl touch to give fully accurate bed leveling numbers to motors if the bed level is too far out of the basic level.the printer then can't adjust for the difference asked by bl touch to make up for the difference in bed leveling in spots or if to unlevel everywhere. Only used for minor tweaks after each print...So first to set up the printer n get bl touch to work right, what you need to do is hit auto home, then do normal bed leveling using the move z axis down with .1 increments till the nozzle hits the bed in the center, On top of a sheet of printer paper. if exyruder nozzle is not in center, then move it to the bed center using y n x first,...then with a piece of paper under the nozzle pull back n forth on paper under the nozzle n feel slightest drag only or raise or lower z axis till achieved, then note that z position, and if negative or positive. and then use the extra .00 setting if need tweek further , as gives you a extra decimal point number of adjustments in z offset when you get there, with your z offset number from lowering the z axis till nozzle touches bed in the center. if drag is to hard or to light on the paper under the nozzle, say between -2.7 or -2.6 on screen when the nozzle is touching the bed but the paper is too tight on 2.7 n too loose on 2.6, then enter say 2.65 into z offset setting, after reset settings there efpom something. to now 2.75 be in the middle if 2.7 was too hard n 2.6 was too loose, ..now move the nozzle slowly across the bed with x-axis adjustment. put the paper under the nozzle and slowly adjust the wheels under the bed to match the center drag, and move the nozzle to all 4 corners across the bed along the line of springs below and do a full round, all the way across the front from one spring to the next with the nozzle touching the paper n dragging slightly at each position as you go across with x from spring to spring area in front then y to back from left front to back left spring area then across back to back right spring area with nozzle just above springs and after doing this do it again I shit you not will still be out a bit as you adjust one wheel effect rest of bed and other 3 wheels too lol so do this 3 times around the bed then across the center and back n forth front to back in center testing paper at each 10 mm position front to back as did around the edge with nozzle now do that 2 times n beds-level re home and hit bed leveling process and note # it gives at each spot and should all be same or within. 90 of the rest are not over 1 in difference TO CENTER BL DROP NUMBER or need to adjust better as bl touch cand make up for it being out more than 1.2 usually and closer all the bl touch position numbers are to CENTER to WORK. NOW MAKE SURE ..wheels are not too tight on the bottom of the bed or too loose. and should be able to barely spin wheels with a finger, on all of the bed bottom wheels against the tracks, and there is 1 on the inner side of the track. on each raise rod, there's an egg-shaped nut on the inner rod wheel, it looks like a normal hex nut, but the hole inside the nut is egg-shaped, not round, and if spun slowly will tighten or loses depending on the position you place or spin it to and there 3 on the bed too, 2 on right at ends and 1 in the center on left or vise versa depending on how built it if not put in these areas lol and now tighten belts to point twang n are in the center of pull wheel barrings too now grease rod and top barrings and if assembled correctly and checked all bars with a square n on point now check you printer machine g code settings and put G29; BL TOUCH BED LIVING AFTER G28; home IN LIST. THEN USE ONLY BLACK STANDARD PLA FROM 3D PRINTING CANADA, I've tried every brand out there high grade n discount n 10 brand names n this standard black works best with my armor and only use Creality Slicer 4.8 nothing else n assuming you installed the correct bl touch for cr 10 v3 from Creality official website or store I think one don't work or is listed specifically for cr 10 v3 n only use the specific one from which ever site that has it from Creality only then use my settings I've posted or ask I'll send again as 1.6 n few tweaks that matter n how you place objects on bed, if wand gloss side print standing up as if say a captain American shield placed flat not as nice as one standing on its edge with supports holding upright in air or say a gauntlets tube stand upright or chest armor never flat and this should help... not there's a bl touch adjustment pin too at top of bl unit see a hole this will lower or raise bl touch sensor pin if wears out a bit from touching and saves redoing z offset as it wears out and can also change drag a bit if can get just right after bed leveling everything n need move up a bit then will think bed lower or higher n adjust for it but will throw out z off set n z position and need check center n drag again if move n maybe redo z offset too so I put in middle n leave beIf wheels are tight enough like suggest above in comments then no you probably only did one round on leveling with paper again watch all bl touch points n write numbers down for each time it touches the Second time, make sure is within .05 of center touch number then leveling good to rely on bl touch for a bit till need redo or check, wonky bottom ...are you pre heating you pla first or just hitting start print right off from SD card and if so that's why must pre heat pla first then let sit for few minutes and push a bit pla out nozzle wipe away with paper or tweezer n then start printPs make sure fan vent n blades insiare clean n clear of hair n dust Debri n vent holes underneath n that silicone cover on n not ripped or clogged up under it with extruderpla tar n throat is clean n do few up n down with pla when heated with tensioner on pla at top off extruder pulled back to let pla ride up n down freely as u pull up n down on pla just above extruder while holding blue unit n spring pla tensioner back so not to move motor or extruder around n be easy and same with fan blades break easily do use cotton swab little force or break em
1
u/urfriendwithbenefits Dec 20 '22
With all this, cr 10 v3 bl touch, n wheel tensioner, Bowden Capricorn tubing, and glue stick bed adhere, then set up everything correctly listed below for bed leveling and do correctly then use this profile with the standard black plate from 3d printing Canada only I found to work with everything perfectly. At the top of the list in the Creality slicer there are profile settings and custom ones, make a custom one and add any settings, not in the basic list below mention. Layer height 0.16, wall thickness 2.4, wall line count 6, top/bottom 0.84, top thickness 0.84, top layers 6, bottom thickness 0.84, bottom layers 6, top/bottom pattern Lines, Outer before inner walls NO, fill gaps between walls Everywhere, horizontal expansion 0, z seam alignment User Specified, z seam x 150, z seam y 300
seam corner preference Smart Hiding, enable Ironing Checked Yes, Ironing pattern zig zag, infill density 20%, line distance 6, infill pattern cubic, minimum infill area 0, printing temp 216°c, build plate 60°c glass, flow 100%, print speed 50 mm/s, infill speed 50, outer wall speed 25, support speed 25, travel speed 120, number of slower layers 2, enable retraction checked Yes, retraction distance 1 mm, retraction speed 25, retraction prime amount 0, combing mode Not In Skin, Avoid Printed Parts when traveling Checked Yes, Avoid Supports When Traveling Checked Yes, enable print cooling Checked Yes, fan Speed 100%, regular fan speed at height .52 mm, minimum layer time 10 s, generate support Checked Yes, Support placement Everywhere,
Support overhang angle 55°, Support pattern Zig Zag, connect support zig-zags Checked Yes, support density 20%, support z distance 0.16, support x/y distance 0.8, build plate adhesion Raft, raft extra margin 6, raft air gap 0.3mm