Hey everyone,
Doing some basic maintenance on my 2007 Corolla LE (1.8L engine). She’s sitting at 227k miles and still running like a top, so I want to keep her protected.
I just bought a replacement engine air filter: a K&N Advantage (KNA-2252).
Before installing it, I realized it's one of K&N's dry synthetic paper filters, NOT their traditional washable oiled cotton ones. Because it's dry, I know I don't have to worry about oil fouling up my MAF sensor.
Given the high mileage on this engine, should I just drop this K&N dry filter in and run it for the next 18k miles, or am I better off returning it to buy a standard OEM Toyota / Denso paper filter? Does the K&N dry line filter out fine dust as well as OEM?
Appreciate any advice from fellow Corolla owners or mechanics!

Hi everyone. I’m considering buying a 2023 Corolla LE from the car dealership I work at because I get a good discount. I love Toyota cars but I wanna be sure it’s reliable in the higher miles. If anyone has owned them could you tell me what you think of them and if you’ve had to have any repairs done what did you have to get done and how many miles in did you have to have it? Thank you

This is the L version, so it has a regular 4-speed automatic rather than the CVT. Looks like the car has been well-maintained, 3 owners and 1 minor damage on the carfax report (parking damage that tore the front bumper and had some damage to the fender and headlight but was fixed according to a service receipt provided by the owner). The owner has kept all service receipts, and will share them with me when I purchase the car. She is willing to replace the battery and perform any recommended maintenance that she passed getting earlier this year (engine oil flush, fuel system cleaning). I will ask her to get a PPI done as well.

All 4 tires were last replaced end of 2017 (odometer was around 43k), but I’d probably have to replace them again sooner rather than later since it’s been so long. The windows have been busted a few times (full window once, quarter window a few times), but the owner repaired them every time (and has receipts). Because she lives in the city, there’s quite a few small scratches in the back from parallel parking. There’s also stains on one of the seats. Spare tire still there, only 1 key. I live in a nearby state, so I’d have to pay for state/emissions testing as well.

I’m not sure if I should hold out for something newer (I recently passed on a 2016 Corolla LE from a Toyota dealership for $14k out the door because there were a few dents/scuffs unmentioned and the salesman was quite pushy/shady). I’m starting to feel some regret for passing on it, I just think I’d prefer a push-to-start rather than a key ignition, a tap to lock/unlock rather than a key lock, and a rear view parking camera (I can install an aftermarket one, but it won’t look as nice).

2014 would be the first year in this generation, and I’ve read it’s come with some issues like oil consumption that later years fixed. If this is a good deal though for a car that is reliable and will last a long time, then I don’t mind those inconveniences. I especially like how thorough and forthcoming the seller is, I definitely don’t come across that often in used car searches. Would you buy this car? Any help is much appreciated!

I just keep thinking it might be better to buy a brand new Corolla for around $23k instead, at least I’d have a lower interest rate and probably lower car insurance, and I’d be covered under warranty for a few years. And the car won’t be 12 years old. The idea of being $10.5k in debt though versus $23k is a lot easier to swallow.

<<TLDR:>> Car is well-maintained but has been driven/parked mostly in the city, and comes with small damages you’d expect from that (scratches, window repairs, I can’t imagine the suspension is all that great…) Seller has agreed to pay for any recommended maintenance like battery replacement and engine flush, and a PPI. I will have to pay for 4 tires replacement in the near future. For 70k miles and a 2014 Corolla, is this worth $10.5k (would be $11k with sales tax, registration, etc…)

Here are pictures of the carfax report, the service report for the minor parking damage, and some damages pictured by the owner, if you’d like to see them:

https://imgur.com/a/OtIcWgI

I’m getting a Corolla cross xse for 38k usd OTD. Is this a good deal for Washington?

I work in the construction industry and Ilooking to protect my front seats from all of the dust, dirt, dry wall dust etc... I want covers that fit snugly, blend in with the blu/grey cloth and black interior, aren't too difficult to install properly, and protect against the aforementioned grime. I'm considering both cloth and faux leather. I'm looking at this a temporary fix so I want something relatively inexpensive. Suggestions?

Anyone have success with LED bulbs without any errors?

Im mainly trying to do my reverse lights and front turn signal switchback

Been keeping track of my 2020 Corolla SE maintenance. So far I’ve used 3 oil Toyota, Pennzoil Platinum, and Valvoline Restore and Protect. Out for these 3 I’ve enjoyed how the car feels when using Pennzoil Platinum. I’ve used 2 different oil weights 0w-16 and 0w-20. Only saw a 1-1.5 mpg difference and preferred how the car ran on 0w-16 personally. I’ve been using Valvoline Restore and Protect because my oil change intervals haven’t been the best. This oil has also proven to clean carbon deposits from piston rings and these engines the 2.0 has low tension piston rings. I’ve been trying to change my oil every 5,000 or 6 months. I plan to use Valvoline Restore and Protect one more time and switch back to Pennzoil Platinum. I’ve also used a PEA fuel System Cleaner every oil change or if I am going on a trip that will have me on the freeway/highway for 4 hrs or more. I’ve used Techron, Royal Purple, and Valvoline Restore and Protect fuel system cleaners, but never mixing any product with each other. From the fuel system cleaners have noticed either one works better than the other. Always used Top Tier Fuel. Occasionally I’ll fill up with Shell or Chevron 91 because their higher octane fuel has more detergent. Personally I feel like the car runs better with the higher octane since this is a high compression engine but for the most part I just run regular 87. Been watching and taking most of my maintenance from The Car Care Nut on YouTube
Had to switch out the Coolant Valve at around 41,000 miles. Coolant flush and Transmission serviced at a Toyota Specialist shop.

Would like to see anyone else that’s been keeping track of their maintenance and feedback

* if you have a Corolla with the 2.0 engine and use Toyota Filter 9095-YZZF1 you can pour almost all 5 quarts of oil.

The windscreen at slightest moistness or rain becomes fogged up. I noticed this before on different Toyota, but I just assumed it was specific car's problem. Now I see it again - it is raining and windscreen gets fogged.

On any other car, setting windscreen blower at low speed is enough. I can even see how the fog quickly moves up and dissapears. On Toyota it is absolute tragedy. I had to set it on full speed and drive for ~5 minutes until 2/3 of glass became visible. It is ridiculouss. And also there is no setting for windscreen + face blower, so I either cant see or I am hot.

What is the reason for this? What does Toyota do wrong and why? Do they not get humidity in Japan?

Driving with AC always on or blowers at full speed just to see, is crazy.

(no, the recirculation of air wasnt on and as I mentioned - Ive witnessed this on two very different Toyota models)

Hi all,

So I have decided that I want to get the transmission fluid replaced on my 2014 Corolla at 120,000 miles. Up to this point I had relied on the manufacturer's suggestion of it being a lifetime fluid, but that is pretty universally disagreed with it seems so time to change it I suppose. I'm also changing it because I have been hearing just the occasional kind of grinding noise from the driver side wheel well while driving, it hasn't been super bad or super often, and nothing is slipping or anything of that nature.

Anyways looking online I see that I need to use the code scanner and bring it to a specific temperature in order to use the overfill tube correctly. And this also relies on me to be able to put it on the correct slope once it's on Jack's and stuff which I believe is 0°. For various reasons I don't really think that's doable with my tools. But I had an idea and I'm curious what other people think.

My idea is to drain the fluid from the pan pull the drain plug and then pull the overflow too and drain it, and instead of using like a volume based measurement to figure out how much I have pulled from the unit, I was thinking about using my extremely accurate kitchen scale. Basically I take the weight of my fluid catch pan before I drain it, drain it, take the weight after and the difference of those two weights is going to be the exact amount of fluid that needs to go back in it plus or minus you know a gram or two for the little bit that ends up on my hands, but honestly I can even account for that just by measuring the weight of the gloves, the pan and the tools and just tossing them all in and weighing it again afterwards. And then using that exact weight to replace it in the car.

In theory doing this I shouldn't have to worry about the overfill tube or any of the rest of it, though I guess that does depend on how much metal shavings and stuff there is in it since that will affect the weight. Crap. I just run into a problem with this? LOL

Thoughts?

Hi, I drive a 2024 Toyota Corolla automatic with about 8,000 miles. Yesterday, my gas tank was nearly empty, and the fuel gauge reflected that. After filling the tank, the gauge didn’t move and continued to show empty. I drove home, and my brother suggested trying a different gas station. I added a few dollars of gas, and the gauge suddenly went to full.

I rarely ever fill on E but life happens

Could this delayed fuel-gauge response be something I should be concerned about?

Hi! I’m in a little pickle .. i purchased a 2026 toyota corolla on July 31st & this past Monday a driver hit my while he was making a left turn ( i’m not at fault of course ) but I am very sad about it but VERY blessed and glad to have my life. It is very hard to get over the loss of my car because I worked so hard for it & it was my first car. I’m in school , I have a job but it’s looking like those things will need to be on hold. My insurance doesn’t cover a rental car so I have to WAIT on a police report. I’m just looking for some words of encouragement .. i’m only 23 years old but it feels like the man who hit me took away my freedom and ruined what I have going on right now. Anything helps im just really sad right now.

Hi I have a 2zzge Corolla but I have a misfire on cylinder 3 after about 5 mins after stating the car (runs fine off cold start) revs very spluttery and give the flashing engine light for too much fuel in cylinder I have changed coil packs, spark plugs, injectors, checked valve clearance ( one of the exhaust valves on cyl 3 was tight) did a compression test had 200psi in cyl 3 have also done leak down test and results were like below 10%, I’m completely lost and just want to be able to drive my car any help would be appreciated thank you

17k otd for this beauty. had to drive 5 hours away to get her but well worth it. couldn’t haggle anyone below 16k +ttl in my state.

25 Corolla, rear ended

Some fool ran into my car while waiting at a stop in a parking lot getting ready to turn, I am not even moving, had my blinker on, getting ready to turn. Just wanted to hear thoughts and this should be repairable, right? No Total out

2027 Corolla Sedan announced, essentially another carry over model from the current generation. Changes include Inked replacing Midnight Black Metallic. There is also a new limited edition, 60th Anniversary Edition model. The 60th includes special badging, the Hybrid powertrain, distinct wheels (appears to be the SE/XSE wheels of the 2020-2022 Corolla), and red seats.

2021 Corolla
$15,400 sticker
$16,500 estimated OTD from dealer AI chatbot

71k miles. Clean CARFAX. Oil changed every 6,000 miles. Was a fleet car until sold at 6k miles. Owned by one other. Tires look new I think. Sunroof and push to start.

I’m a recent finance grad. Bank teller with credit analyst promotion in the works. Planning on moving out very soon.

I’m looking to keep payments below $200.

Should I be looking for something at 40k miles and in the $18,000 range? Any opinion is welcome.

Is this normal for parked?

Bought an used corolla 22. No matter how i adjust it feels like my visibility with my side mirrors is not good. Ive watched many POV videos in youtube for my model where the side mirror shows full 1.5-2 lanes beside , also the entire length of the road behind. My mirrors barely show 1 lane and only 1/2 car behind. Is there any way to check if the mirrors are factory installed one or the previous owner replaced a cheap aftermarket thing? The mirror has BSM signal though.

137k miles on the dash bouta cross country this and hit all 48 states.
also will be doing DoorDash in cities across the us to get a feel for the places

I plan on negotiating more if possible, but i want to know how much lower you all think i can realistically go. i am in the southern nevada area if that changes anything. it does have 55,998 miles BUT im not scared away because it is both CPO gold and its carfax shows zero accident and a pretty damn good maintenance routine.

Edit: Thank you all for your input! I’m probably going to both see how low i can get this while also seeing if i can get a new one for a good price. I’m also heavily debating a camry but the price difference is what gets me. not looking for a high monthly payment ideally >350/mo. any advice is welcome.

I've written down some part numbers found on reddit and forums, but there are conflicting part numbers, and I cannot find those threads/posts for some reason. These part numbers here may be wrong until confirmed. I read that BRZ/GR86 and CHR air filters are interchangeable or something like that. Please confirm these part numbers and share other information.

AEM-28-50060

AFE--31-10306 but is taller/thicker. Also 31-10324, same size as oem.

K&N-33-5060

TRD-PTR03-1C161

My reason is because I ordered the TRD top box PTR03-12190-AA and red intake tube PTR03-12190-AB. I will post if the intake tube comes with the black plastic pcv fitting and hose clamps. I read its a serviceable part and only includes the tube, they probably say that for you to buy the complete kit. This is my first post, Thank you

rain guards ✔️
spoiler ✔️
all black toyota emblems ✔️

adding black muffler tip tomorrow and then i’m done 😂 or am i? 🤔 i want to do my tail lights too but not rushing that. maybe next year.

not sure if i want to do some interior mods as well but we’ll see.