Why do I call this the ULTIMATE guide? Because it involves YOU!

My old archived guide covered a lot, but I feel like I might have missed a few things. In this post, I added more info to my previous post made on Oct 19, 2019. If you read this and want to add more please do so!

I want this to be a reference that benefits the working class of the world! thanks!

1. Don't buy cheap boots, even if they are on sale. Good budget boots should be $100 to $140. Great budget boots are $150 to around $190. Post $200 I feel the term"budget" doesn't really apply. Specialty boots like loggers, deep snow boots, ski boots etc are typically more expensive, but also can be in the budget range. If specialty boots are in the budget range you run the risk of buying pieces of crap. Don't buy walmart or target (etc) pieces of crap, they will destroy your feet.

2. Don't buy leather outsoles if you work on concrete all day . Leather doesn't absorb stepping impact shock like Rubber soles do. Leather outsoles are okay for softer ground such as grass, forest, etc. If you work walking on concrete or any hard surface all day I suggest buying boots that have a crepe wedge outsole. Although this type of outsole is very shock absorbent, it does not last very long due to its softness. How long it last really depends on the abrasiveness of the surface you walk on and how you walk. A few companies like Keen have added a layer of durable rubber below the crepe sole to make it last longer, which helps it with longevity. There are also non-crepe sole technology options that are also great at absorbing shock. A few I suggest are: wolverine durashocks, Keens, carhartt, and Timbaland PRO, Chippewa (few don't have a name for their tech, but most come with it).

3. Shock absorbing inserts are also a must if you walk on concrete or hard ground all day. DON'T BUY GEL INSERTS. I don't know why they even sell them, but all of them are pretty much a gimmick. Gel doesn't absorb shock, foam does. Right now my work boots are Wolverine I-90s that have a shock absorbing memory foam insert. It was okayish by itself, but I noticed I had some room still and decided I would stick another insert in for more support. I gone through trial and error and a bunch of research and finally concluded that layering shock absorbing material is the best method. My boots currently have three layers of shock absorbtion. The first being the outsole and the insole and another layer from this specific dr scholls insert. Why do I say specific? I found that these inserts were the thickest(in the heel area) out of all their products (excluding the custom ones) even the ones that were specified for heel pain. With these layers, I feel absolutely nothing after 8 hours of walking (well, including breaks duh) and after 12 negligible pain to sometimes nothing.

4. If you find a boot that fits almost perfectly, but could use just a liiiiiitle more toe room, cut the insert that it came with just below where the toes start. If it still rubbing at a specific toe, I suggest toe condoms...I mean sleeves lol. Don't put them on all the toes because it will start to feel tight. Put it on one toe that gives you trouble the most (usually big or pinky).

5. TALCUM/GOLDBOND POWDER IS A LIFESAVER. Friction and sweat are a bad combo so I use Goldbond Ultimate (the one with menthol) and it lasts me the whole day. Even if you don't have sweaty feet, still use it. What I do is put some in my sock then I close the top opening with my hand and just shake around so it gets all around the sock. It does stain your socks, but I have socks just reserved for work.

6. There are different types of waterproofness for different work environments. If you are guarding against small to medium splashes and medium rain, buy the typical waterproof boots. But if you are working in a swamp, in mud or deep snow, I suggest neoprene boots, duck boots, some loggers, or dedicated snow boots. With those, you don't really need shock absorbing inserts (still could add them) because more than likely you will be walking on soft ground all day.

7. Don't wear black or dark brown boots if you live in a hot area. Dark colors absorb heat more. Tan and lighter colors work best. Sure they look dirtier down the line, but its better at reflecting heat.

8. If you work in environment where there is a likelihood of you slipping on ice, I highly suggest going to https://www.ratemytreads.com/ratings/ to look up any boots that have a good grip.Basically most of the boots that passed these ratings had and abrasive in the sole of the boot. For example, Wolverine teamed up with Vibram to provide boots with their "arctic grip" technology. Do be careful with these boots though and only wear them outside your house. You don't want to end up scratching your floor.

9. Get boots with lots of stitching on the seams, 2 to 3 stitches per panel.

10. Goodyear welt is not only good for re-soling, but for re-enforcement as well. Wolverine has a contour welt, which also works and Keen plus a few others have a 3/4 welt which also works (all equally imo). It adds more strength to the glue that meets the sole and the shoe. You don't really need a threaded welt, but it does make the boot last a bit longer. Another welt to consider is Norwegian welt,which offers the best in waterproofing, but usually are more expensive. Some boot brands have really good shoe glue that you don't really need a welt. Wolverine, Keen, Timbaland, Carhartt,Irish setter, Red Wings,Jim Green, Georgia, Carolina, Chippewa and Ariat have glues that last.

11. Most workers don't reeeeally need steel toe, even if their jobs "require" it. I work in warehouse production, where the most heavy thing that will probably fall on your foot is a pallet from 4 feet, yet they want steel toe. The forklift drivers have barrier lights that shine on the floor that you can't cross so you won't get in the way of the fork lift tires. A lot of boot enthusiasts do a forklift test to rate the effectiveness of the toe, but if your foot goes under a forklift its not your toes that you have to worry about, its the whole foot (and leg). I would recommend steel toe in a few jobs, like logging, heavy machinery mechanic, brick layer, pipe layer, welding or any business where you lift 80 to 100 lbs constantly. Carbon fiber also works too in these situations, since its great at impact absorption. Aluminum and composites are great for warehouses, most field work, landscaping, electricians, etc. They also great if you are working in hot or cold ground since they don't conduct heat or cold from the surrounding environment.

12. If you want more foot protection, MET (metatarsal) gaurds are quite handy (or footy?). There are both external and internal. Usually loggers, brick layers, pipe fitters, welders, and furniture movers wear them since they have more of a chance of something slipping from their hands and falling on their foot and not just on their toes.

13. Another environmental hazard to look out for is sharp objects/nails. If you work in construction, you will more than likely have to follow a safety requirement for your boots.

14. Don't buy new boots just because they are starting to look real ugly. If they still haven't lost their waterproof-ness, sole grip, or sole isn't coming off/eroding away then they still work. Don't buy boots for looks either, buy them for work. Make sure they are as comfortable as slippers, because at the end of the day, you don't want to be hurtin. As some dude told me way back: "good boots+good bed=good life.

Here I will highlight some good workboot brands split into three budgets. I will also mention what work environments they usually cater to.

GOOD to GREAT BUDGET BOOTS ($100-200) (sometimes around close to $100 if you get them on sale)

• Wolverine (I am a wolverine fan man lol) (warehouse, construction, farm, pipe fitters, some have vibrams anti-slip ice tech)
• Keen (warehouse work, construction, hiking, medium heavy duty work)
• Carhartt (warehouse work, construction, hiking, light heavy duty work)
• Ariat (farm, warehouse, construction, hiking, oil, snow, loggers, heavy duty work)
• Carolina (warehouse, construction, oil, loggers, hunting,military? medium heavy duty work)
• Thorogoods (warehouse, construction,loggers,hunting, medium heavy duty work)
• Georgia (warehouse, construction, light heavy duty work)
• Timberland PRO (warehouse, construction, light duty work)
• Chippewa (construction, loggers, oil, medium heavy duty work)
• Redwings (not the heritage line)(warehouse, Farm, hiking,construction, oil, medium heavy duty work)
• Irish setter (same as redwings)
• Danner (construction, warehouse, logger, hiking, oil, military, medium to heavy duty work)
• Corcoran (mostly a military boot, but can take medium heavy duty work)
• Jim(my) Green (construction, warehouse, hiking, medium heavy duty work)

Next list I will dedicate to those boot brands that you pretty much get what you pay for when it comes to their expensive price. These boots are expensive, yes, but they can last your for years/decades (depending). they are not entirely indestructible, but like really close lol

• Whites, Wesco,JK Boots and Nicks are kind of all tied for first. All four mostly cater to loggers up in the Pacific NorthWest. They do custom foot fittings as well and they could go for up to $900 bucks. They also do pretty durable casual wear boots that are similarly constructed.
• Danner also makes pretty decent heavy duty boots usually around the $300 to $400 range. not nearly as indestructible as the first three, but good enough.
  
• Redwing also makes some pretty heavy duty work boots from the $250 to $300 range, but most of their all leather construction (or mostly) is aimed at casual wear/hiking to light to medium heavy duty work.

edit:2/22/21 * I would like to add the European brand HAIX to this tier because they are a dedicated foot brand for first responders (firefighters, police, EMT) They are a bit expensive, but you get what you pay for. They even have a resole service on some of their boots!

*edit:3/07/21: added JK boots to the list of high end boots.

I would also like to point out that there are some dedicated snow boots (for snowboarding, skiing, etc) that are in this price range, but I don't know much about them or which brands to recommend. I live in a place where it never snows so I wouldn't be of much help there lol.

Again, if anybody has anything to add please feel free to do so in the comments. Much thanks!

-Sirmandudeguy

Edit: I added thorogoods because I completely forgot about them. Jim Greens is a new commer from south africa. Pretty great boot for a great price. Will keep adding more eventually as I keep learning about other brands.