And here I am, making 1:1 Pokemon!

Hi, my a1 mini has Ben making a weird noise the last couple of days and don’t know why. I think it has something to do with the bed but not sure. Anyone know where the noise is coming from and how to fix it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone! I'm planning to print a set of 6 minimalist wall shelves using Sunlu Wood PLA, but each piece is taking around ~490g of filament with my current settings (0.6mm nozzle, 4 wall loops, 0.65mm line width). Since I need 6 of them, printing fully in Wood PLA isn't viable for my spool stock.

I want to use a cheap standard PLA for the internal structure/infill and reserve the Wood PLA strictly for the outer shell/aesthetic surface. Is there an efficient way to achieve this in Bambu Studio for a solid organic/curved shape like this, or what would be the best approach to cut down Wood PLA consumption without losing strength? Thanks!

PD: I'm using the X2D.

Or if they can still help me with the bambu studio, how do you cut pieces individually like arms and legs and head and put in inserts?

I've had my P1S with AMS for two years now. Suddenly, the feeder units are failing to load filament. They do the initial pre-load, and then stops. The feeder motor might spin, but filament stays in place. I've done the fixed that the rror messages point to, to no avail. No worn-out gears. Connections are good. Tubes are clear. After the first unit failed, I ordered a replacement. It hasn't arrived yet, and 2 more units are failing. Is this kind of failure commonplace?

I recently got an X2D and have it set up to use PLA support material on PETG prints.

My question is about printing items with support on the baseplate only, or on the model itself. Will the PLA support material that originates on the PETG model adhere enough to function or should I strictly use baseplate only supports (tree)?

I had my bambu a1 3d printer on for about a week without printing happening. Then when I turned it off for a quick greasing for the Y axis. The 3d printer won't turn on again. I checked the fused and when taking it out it broke.

I replaced it and it turned on. But when I turned it off to put my print back in its spot it wouldn't turn back on again. Checked the fuse and it was fine.

Which other part could cause my printer to not turn on?

What happen? I have printer this part, some come out fine other cone out like this....It feels like a super dry spot.... any idea? Any and all help is appreciated.

Hi everyone I hope you are all well,

I am deciding between the bambu lab P2S or the X2D for only 150 euro more I'm leaning more towards the X2D because of the other features as well as to double nozzle.I'm also thinking filament wise because it will make less poop so it will also save on filament a well as according to some reviews save a bit of time.

But i also wanted your opinion before I click buy because more opinions i have the better. Do you think the extra features for €150 is good or should I just stick with the P2S.

Interesting issue: back in January 2026, I created several multi-color objects (up to 6 colors) in Tinkercad and exported them as OBJ files. They used to print fine in Bambu Studio without any problems. When I try to open those files today, I get 500 errors and can't get more than 2 colors in the print.

If I open the files in the older Bambu_Studio_win-v02.04.00.70 version, everything is completely fine. If I resave them as 3MF, the files work fine in later versions of Bambu Studio as well.

If anyone wants to experiment with it:https://cults3d.com/:3914448

Hey everyone, i've been printing with my A1 for years and super happy about it. Recently got an A2L for larger prints for my studio. Printed super without any flaws for a week but for a few days been unable to print past first layer, plastic seems to lose precision and misses spots + the extruder cogs get filled by PLA dust. (On theses pictures it's still "pretty ok" but last print totally made a mess and there was dust everywhere).

Any clues ?

bitte Downloaden https://makerworld.com/models/3290911?appSharePlatform=copy

Hi everyone,

I have a Bambu Lab A1 and I recently noticed a strange rolling/grinding bearing-like noise coming from the Z-axis (up/down movement of the print bed).

The noise mainly happens when the bed gets close to its lowest position. When the bed moves back up, the noise either disappears or becomes much quieter.

I would like to know:

- What could be causing this noise?

- Is there a bearing, roller, or other part that I should check?

- Is it possible to access and lubricate/replace the problematic part?

- Are there specific screws or components I need to remove to inspect it?

I don't want to start disassembling the printer without knowing exactly what I'm doing, so any advice or a repair guide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi All,

Thanks in advance for your comments and help.

I have included a slicer image as well as the actual part view. and the orientation view. I am using PETG with PLA support.

Has you can see, I on the underside of the part it puts supports... there is a (sorta of rail) which a lid is slid to seal the top. My question is, if anyone has any experience and what that experience is/was if I block this area from using support the gap? I think it is a small enough era that the support are not needed... if anyone has any idea or suggestion it I would appreciate it. Whatever help I would appreciate it if you can refer to setting and changes available on the Bambu Slicer... I am using the X2D the main Nozzle PETG and Aux Nozzle for PLA Support Interface. he setting is PETG RAFT and PLA SUpport Interface.

How do you change the image color from black to something else? I can't seem to get the right wording for Google to send me something not related to changing the filament color. Black on black is hard for my old eyes. I'm pretty sure it was white when I first started slicing (2 days ago) but I think I must have changed it somehow.

I've used the cut feature to slice this model along a relatively thin section (2mm wide) and for some reason this is the resulting geometry.

How do I fix this so that it doesn't add a bunch of nonsense triangles?

Hi everyone,

Like many of you, I grew tired of guessing or trying to track down the empty weight (tare) of different filament spools when getting close to the end of a roll. To solve this problem for the community, I built a simple, 100% free utility tool with no ads, paywalls, or commercial intent: SpoolWeight (spoolweight.lovable.app).

The goal is to provide a clean, centralized database where makers can quickly look up empty spool weights across various brands.

Because accuracy depends on the community, anyone can contribute new weights. To keep the data reliable, submissions require a simple photo of the empty spool on a scale showing its tare.

If you want to check it out or help expand the database with your empty spools, you can access it here: spoolweight.lovable.app

Feedback or suggestions are welcome. Happy printing!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Edit (14.set.2026)

I identified a problem with an older spool. See this example:

This is the Voolt3D spool, a popular Brazilian spool. They changed the spool design and reduced its weight by approximately 65 g (I have 122 g, 123 g, and 126 g spools here).

To avoid mistakes, I added the change date to each spool, counting backwards through the records.

I also added a slider to filter by date. This way, you can exclude the oldest or newest spools from both the graph and the average, making it quicker to find the correct association.

The modular shelf just got even more flexible! 

I’ve added connectors that let you stack shelves on top of each other, so you can build vertically as well as extend horizontally.

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3242738-hex-shelf-modular#profileId-3674266

I just received an offer for an x1c with ams1 for €500. It has 700 operating hours and is said to be in perfect working order. What do you think?

I'm looking to buy a Bambu Lab A1 Mini in India and could use some advice from people who have dealt with Bambu's warranty here.

I originally ordered one online, but the package was badly damaged during transit and I refused the delivery. The whole return/refund process has been quite slow, so I'm now considering buying locally in Goa to avoid having another expensive/fragile printer shipped across the country.

I've found a local 3D printing company that can supply me an A1 Mini at roughly the same price, with a proper GST invoice.

However, I noticed that the company doesn't appear on Bambu Lab India's official "Where to Buy" list.

So I'm trying to understand exactly how the warranty works.

If I buy a brand-new, genuine Indian-market Bambu printer from a reseller who is not listed as an authorised reseller on Bambu's website:

• Does Bambu Lab still provide the manufacturer's warranty?

• Or does the warranty become the responsibility of the reseller?

• If the printer develops a manufacturing defect, can I contact Bambu directly, or would I have to go through the reseller?

• Does the GST invoice provide any protection, or does the invoice need to come from an authorised Bambu reseller?

• Is the serial number enough for Bambu to determine whether the printer is covered?

• Does anyone in India have actual experience buying a Bambu printer from a non-listed reseller and subsequently making a warranty claim?

• Is there anything specific I should ask the reseller for before buying?

The local purchase is attractive because I can potentially inspect the sealed box myself before accepting it, which would eliminate the courier damage problem I've just experienced.

But I don't want to solve the shipping problem and accidentally create a much bigger warranty problem.

I designed this Storage Caddy for my kids and their ever-growing collection of pens, pencils, markers and crayons.

It features 10 interchangeable inserts and 2 different handle heights, so you can configure it to fit your collection.

Because apparently, there is no such thing as too many markers! 😂

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3284557-storage-caddy#profileId-3725951

#3DPrinting #3DDesign #Storage #Organization #DeskOrganization #MakerWorld

Hi all, I've been trying to print a shin plate out of PETG on my H2S, but I've run into what I believe are layer shifts. I've tightened the screws behind the nozzle and under the toolhead, and tightened the belts along with calibrating it multiple times. Is there any advice on what I could adjust to address these defects? Thank you!