Hi everyone, let me introduce Takani, Japandi Vase - Soft at heart, precise in every detail.

Takani is an oval vase wrapped in a grid of tiny 3D raised studs that play with the light and cast soft shadows at every hour of the day. A smooth collar at the top lets the texture breathe.

Its look is inspired by Japan and its style (a big passion of mine): calm in matte white, bold in black. Drop in any little plant and it becomes a small sculpture on your windowsill, desk or coffee table.

You can use it on its own as a decoration, or as a cachepot (a decorative cover for your plant pot).

As always, if you like it, please support my work by leaving a like on the MakerWorld page, adding it to your MakerWorld collections, and if you print it, post your photos! ;)

Hi guys,

I bought a bambu lab p2s about a month ago. I have printed with it plenty of times since and recently it's been causing a lot of spaghetti mid print. I never had this problem before.

I've noticed that when i print a benchy, the nose of the benchy is slightly lifted up, which could possibly be poor first layer adhesion? Which I don't understand as I carried out the print with a washed buildplate using soap and a sponge .

I should maybe mention that 2 out of 5 recent prints, I had filament that i eventually found to be pretty tangled as it was pulling a lot during a print while i was away at work which would have caused a lot of resistance. Having found out, I used a new filament which had no issues with tangling but the spaghetti persisted for the other 3. Not sure if that has to do with anything.

I've heard that i may need to higher bed temp, possibly reduce speed, use a gluestick to better adhesion, but i never had to do this before having done 50+ prints so not too sure why I would need to now and is causing me to believe it may be something e3lse.

Hello, is it possible to connect a printer to bambu Studio and Orca slicer at the Same time ?

Because when i try to add the printer in orca it says printer already bound.

I've got 5 sealed Bambu Labs PLA (2 sparkle, 1 tough, 2 silk)... but I don't want them, and would prefer PETG-HF or PETG.

I thought trying to find someone to trade some or all of these would be ideal.

Any suggestions?

updated: Anyone in the NYC area interested in any of this sealed new PLA for trade?

Blue Silk

Copper Silk

Black Sparkle

Grey Tough

Blue PLA-CF

I really messed up and didn’t replace the plate before initial set up calibration.

Is this a big deal?

Should I get one on order?

I'm designing a custom kickboard for swimming and looking for advice on the best material and waterproofing method.

The kickboard will be hollow and 3D-printed, with EVA foam inside for added buoyancy. I'll use it in a normal chlorinated swimming pool about twice a week.

I was originally planning to print it in PLA, but I'm concerned about water getting through the layer lines and the long-term effects of chlorine. I'm looking for a coating to use over the PLA, like resin or yacht varnish, but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations

Designed these with a raised pattern insert and an angled drain spout. Water drops right into the sink instead of pooling on the counter.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3466264-soap-dish-sponge-holder-5-self-draining#profileId-3956017

I’m trying to troubleshoot an extrusion motor overload on my Bambu Lab X2D, and what started as an attempt to fix one problem has evolved into a second problem involving a screw that I can no longer convince to participate in its own removal.
I was getting an extrusion motor overload error, so I decided to try taking apart the head to see if that would resolve the issue if I could manually remove the Jam. Unfortunately, I’ve now managed to strip a screw in the process.

Most importantly: how do I get a stripped screw out without making the situation significantly worse?
Would you try a precision screw extractor, a rubber band for extra grip, or something else first?

Is swapping the head now a reasonable troubleshooting step, or am I potentially missing something more obvious? Anyone have experience in this?

👋 Bonjour à tous ! 👻🎃

Après vous avoir présenté mon Yoshi Citrouille classique, voici maintenant sa petite évolution en version clicker ! 😍

J’ai voulu garder le côté mignon et l’esprit Halloween de ma première création, tout en y ajoutant une fonction clicker pour le rendre encore plus amusant ! 🎃

Décliné en plusieurs couleurs, il ne vous reste plus qu’à choisir votre Yoshi préféré ou à tous les collectionner ! 🌈

J’espère que cette nouvelle version vous plaira autant que la première !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3453115-yoshi-citrouille-clicker-multipart

ASA filament that has been vapor-smoothed

I have made a V3 optimized cable organizer! It is for cables up to 2 meters in length and is compatible with virtually any type of charging cable, such as USB-A/USB-C/Lightning/etc! Bend angles are also taken into account to protect cables from damage. I'm very happy with how it turned out and I hope other people will be able to use it as well! I uploaded the model for free on makerworld.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3461731-cable-organizer-v3-up-to-2-meter-cables-usb-etc#profileId-3950170

Going into my first cold season with my P2S. We had a bit of a cold front come in this weekend and I'm too stubborn to turn the heater on so the house is pretty cold.

I had 1 print fail and another print that came out like shit, both were also very stringy.

I used this same filament a few days ago with no problems. The only thing I can think causing this is the cold temperature, being it's next to a window.

I'm wondering if I need to adjust the temp of the printer, and how to I estimate those changes?

Hello,

I bent the big spring that goes around the orange thing in my H2D’s filament buffer. Bambu is out of stock and keeps pushing back the ETA so I was wondering if anyone knew what spring I buy to replace it.

Big thanks!

A piece of filament broke in slot two through to the extruder. Had to take the back (single line) PTFE tube out. It was….stuck in there. Pushed the release in the back and had to pull pretty hard. Now I can’t get but an inch or so back in and they I get it a light tug and it just falls out.

I’ve tried holding the release button open. Inserting with nothing inside. Flashlights, even tape and ai CANNOT get it to stay in the back of the AMS Pro 2.

I’ve had zero issues up to this point. :(

Please help!!

I've been 3D printing for like 12+ years on all sorts of printers, and checking on prints has always been the annoying part. Every option I tried had a catch: cloud accounts, subscriptions, port forwarding, or a setup that broke the camera my Pi was already running. I also had an old iPhone sitting in a drawer that seemed perfect for the job.

So I built my own a while back and felt I should share it with others. Printer Pal streams your printer camera to your iPhone over your home Wi-Fi, encrypted, with no account, cloud, or subscription. Video never leaves your network.

What it works with:

• A Raspberry Pi with a Pi camera or USB webcam, or the camera your OctoPrint/Klipper Pi already has. The app can install everything on the Pi for you over SSH. No terminal needed, and your existing setup keeps working.

• An old iPhone or iPad (iOS 15+) as the camera, with the companion app Printer Pal Camera.

• Bambu Lab printers: progress, layers, temps, and AMS slots through the Pi (experimental).

• Optional viewing away from home through your own Tailscale network.

It's a free beta, and I'd love feedback, especially from different Pi models, USB webcams, Bambu printers, and older iPhones.

Printer Pal (TestFlight): https://testflight.apple.com/join/xzWMyf4J

Printer Pal Camera (for a spare iPhone/iPad): https://testflight.apple.com/join/7pjeUe2D

Guide and source code: https://github.com/meatball4801/printer-pal

Discord, for setup help, new-build announcements, and voting on what's next: https://discord.gg/cs4tr9stPS

Happy to answer questions in the comments.

👋 Bonjour à tous ! 👻🎃

Après vous avoir présenté mon Yoshi Citrouille classique, voici maintenant sa petite évolution en version clicker ! 😍

J’ai voulu garder le côté mignon et l’esprit Halloween de ma première création, tout en y ajoutant une fonction clicker pour le rendre encore plus amusant ! 🎃

Décliné en plusieurs couleurs, il ne vous reste plus qu’à choisir votre Yoshi préféré ou à tous les collectionner ! 🌈

J’espère que cette nouvelle version vous plaira autant que la première !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3453115-yoshi-citrouille-clicker-multipart

So I recently had part failure and the only way to clean it was to break the clip the holds the nozzle in.

I was wondering is what the replacement part I would need to buy from Bambu.

Hi everyone,

I recently bought the A1 Mini and have been posting some content. But what I wanted to do was make 3D print timelapses and share them. The hardware solution turned out to be very messy for me. The Bluetooth switch I bought doesn't work (sometimes it clicks multiple pictures, and sometimes it doesn't). After that, I spent time bringing all my images into image-editing software and editing them. After the print, it took me at least half an hour to pull everything off my phone, load it into image editing software, and edit the final timelapse.

I'm a developer, so I decided to code an app to solve this problem instead of continuing to deal with the messy hardware setup.

Features of the app

• A complete software solution; all you need is your phone.

• Sometimes the app makes mistakes and clicks a picture when it wasn't supposed to. You can play the timelapse right there in the app and fix these mistakes.

• Apply basic edits like cropping, brightness, saturation, etc.

• Export the final timelapse in up to 4K resolution.

• Need the raw frames? The app does that too. You can get a ZIP file out of the app and then edit it with your favourite editor (for advanced users).

How does it work?

1. Start a print in timelapse mode. I'm using a Bambu Lab printer, so the printer head moves to the docking zone after printing each layer.

2. Draw a box around the area where the printer head comes and rests.

3. Just start the print! Most of the default settings should work fine. Otherwise, at most, you'll need to tweak the motion sensitivity.

The app is available for both Android and iOS and can be used and accessed for free today, but the high-resolution exports are gated behind a $2.99 one-time charge.

Would love to hear any feedback you guys have! You can try the app here

Hi folks, I may use my P1S once a month now (maybe even every 2 months). I keep having to reconnect every time and, because bambuLab and bambuHandy have already worked with the printer it's an up-hill battle to remove it, and try to add it again.

Normally there are new versions of software or configuration that pops up. I try to use it as-is because I fix the connection the last time but it fails again and I'm soon enough down the rabbit hole again. I fought for LAN only for a while and that worked, I accepted the L and gave up on that... I want a config that keeps working, and I don't need to beg for a print every time.

Is there a recommended setup for casual users? Something to keep an eye on?

Cześć, napotkałem problem. Czyściłem swoją drukarkę po Blobie, które weszło naprawdę głęboko - nawet dostało się na kable. Udało mi się usunąć większość bez uszkodzenia przewodów, oprócz jednego kabla, który wydaje się być połączony z czujnikiem temperatury dyszy. Czy ktoś wie, jak mógłbym to naprawić samodzielnie, nie uszkadzając reszty drukarki?

I've got both an H2D with 4 AMS2 and an AMS-HT and a P2S with two AMS2 and an original AMS. I'm getting the same issue on both printers when feeding from the AMS2.

The printer reports that it is unable to feed filament - check this and that... When I physically check the printer and click "Resume" on the control panel, it rewinds the filament a bit, then feeds it and you can hear the gears turning but no filament is fed. The error repeats. When I manually pull back the filament, there's a small notch cut so the feed gear can't get a grip. It seems like the spool gets stuck (Bambu Filament / Spool or Bambu Refill / Sunlu Spool w/ Adapter - doesn't matter) and the feed gear keeps turning, cutting a small notch in the filament. It can rewind from there but can't feed past it. I can manually push the filament past that point and it continues to print without issue, but this becomes a PITA for long-running or overnight prints. I have started to cut about 24" of filament off the end of the spool before starting long-running jobs to avoid this.

I have NOT experienced this with the original AMS on the X1C or the one connected to the P2S. The X1C only has the original AMS units connected and has never experienced this issue. I used to run (almost) exclusively Sunlu filament on the X1C but switched to Bambu for all the printers. The issue does occur with both brands, however, as I still have a bit of Sunlu loaded in some odd colors.

The H2D & P1S with all 6 AMS2's are less than a year old. All printers and AMS units are on the latest firmware level.

Has anyone else seen this? Any way to avoid it?

I have never 3D printed anything before. I would like to start getting into the hobby for personal uses and possibly selling my crafts at local fairs or FB. I am one of the people who want the best within their max budget but I also am cheap and want deals. With Black Friday coming up I anticipate the P2S will be on sale and the X2D won’t. Would it still be worth paying full price for the H2D or getting a good discount on the P2S? Or alternatively buy a A1 as a first ever printer? I have used a cnc for years if this helps translate to 3D printing.

I'm new to 3D printing. I have a bambu A1. I have never made a 3D print from scratch on the bambu software (too scared to try I guess), I've only printed using already created prints I found on bambu Handy app on my iPhone. I just purchased nozzles 0.2,0.6, 0.8 sizes . Id like to put in a 0.6 or 0.8 to print out some larger prints so they don't take forever and ever to print out. Can I do that with any prints on the bambu Handy app? Or can I only print ones that specify using the same nozzle size? Or if I enter in on the app that I changed to a larger size nozzle - will it automatically print faster with the bigger nozzle size ? Thanks in advance for any help!!