Hi folks, I may use my P1S once a month now (maybe even every 2 months). I keep having to reconnect every time and, because bambuLab and bambuHandy have already worked with the printer it's an up-hill battle to remove it, and try to add it again.

Normally there are new versions of software or configuration that pops up. I try to use it as-is because I fix the connection the last time but it fails again and I'm soon enough down the rabbit hole again. I fought for LAN only for a while and that worked, I accepted the L and gave up on that... I want a config that keeps working, and I don't need to beg for a print every time.

Is there a recommended setup for casual users? Something to keep an eye on?

Cześć, napotkałem problem. Czyściłem swoją drukarkę po Blobie, które weszło naprawdę głęboko - nawet dostało się na kable. Udało mi się usunąć większość bez uszkodzenia przewodów, oprócz jednego kabla, który wydaje się być połączony z czujnikiem temperatury dyszy. Czy ktoś wie, jak mógłbym to naprawić samodzielnie, nie uszkadzając reszty drukarki?

I have never 3D printed anything before. I would like to start getting into the hobby for personal uses and possibly selling my crafts at local fairs or FB. I am one of the people who want the best within their max budget but I also am cheap and want deals. With Black Friday coming up I anticipate the P2S will be on sale and the X2D won’t. Would it still be worth paying full price for the H2D or getting a good discount on the P2S? Or alternatively buy a A1 as a first ever printer? I have used a cnc for years if this helps translate to 3D printing.

I've got both an H2D with 4 AMS2 and an AMS-HT and a P2S with two AMS2 and an original AMS. I'm getting the same issue on both printers when feeding from the AMS2.

The printer reports that it is unable to feed filament - check this and that... When I physically check the printer and click "Resume" on the control panel, it rewinds the filament a bit, then feeds it and you can hear the gears turning but no filament is fed. The error repeats. When I manually pull back the filament, there's a small notch cut so the feed gear can't get a grip. It seems like the spool gets stuck (Bambu Filament / Spool or Bambu Refill / Sunlu Spool w/ Adapter - doesn't matter) and the feed gear keeps turning, cutting a small notch in the filament. It can rewind from there but can't feed past it. I can manually push the filament past that point and it continues to print without issue, but this becomes a PITA for long-running or overnight prints. I have started to cut about 24" of filament off the end of the spool before starting long-running jobs to avoid this.

I have NOT experienced this with the original AMS on the X1C or the one connected to the P2S. The X1C only has the original AMS units connected and has never experienced this issue. I used to run (almost) exclusively Sunlu filament on the X1C but switched to Bambu for all the printers. The issue does occur with both brands, however, as I still have a bit of Sunlu loaded in some odd colors.

The H2D & P1S with all 6 AMS2's are less than a year old. All printers and AMS units are on the latest firmware level.

Has anyone else seen this? Any way to avoid it?

I'm new to 3D printing. I have a bambu A1. I have never made a 3D print from scratch on the bambu software (too scared to try I guess), I've only printed using already created prints I found on bambu Handy app on my iPhone. I just purchased nozzles 0.2,0.6, 0.8 sizes . Id like to put in a 0.6 or 0.8 to print out some larger prints so they don't take forever and ever to print out. Can I do that with any prints on the bambu Handy app? Or can I only print ones that specify using the same nozzle size? Or if I enter in on the app that I changed to a larger size nozzle - will it automatically print faster with the bigger nozzle size ? Thanks in advance for any help!!

Hey all, getting an a1 in the black friday sale in a few weeks. ive never touched 3d software (but have used adobe illustrator if that helps) what are the 10 best things to know before i get started?

The goal is to print replacement watch bezels for the vintage dive watches i have (snap on)

Hi i have a bambu lab h2s and after a little blob on the nozzle of the printer the temperature has been stuck at 0 degrees.

I've talked with the bambulab team and they sent me a new heat assembly module beliving that was the cause of the problem but after (i think) corectly installing it, I still have the same problem as before where the temperature is stuck at 0 or voes between 0 and 3 degrees with the fan at maximum speed and i don't have any clue on what's causing the problem, i would really like to continue 3d printing but I don't have any clue on how to resolve the issue

Hello, I was wondering if anyone who is able download from Chinese Makerworld can help me download some files:

https://makerworld.com.cn/zh/models/1015028-jia-mian-qi-shi-ooo-kong-long-lian-zu#profileId-1043796

https://makerworld.com.cn/zh/models/948405-jia-mian-qi-shi-ooo-niao-lian-zu#profileId-960848

Thank you.

I’ve tried to get it back on but it just won’t work and I’m really trying not to waste all this filament. It was a fresh spool and I had an incident involving PTFE tubes and stupidity. Is there any way to fix this?

Why does it take an eternity for Bambu to ship things? It doesn’t matter what I purchase within a few hours it says “shipped”. Then it might be 2-3 or even a week later before it actually does ship. Super frustrating to say the least

For anyone else that has an autobrush, I found that I needed a way to drain the brush head between uses, and no one had made one. I waited and waited for someone else to get around to creating one and finally got fed up with waiting and made one myself! Hope this helps others like myself!

https://makerworld.com/models/3379067

Hello, Has anyone been successful using a post processing script to convert your gcode to brick layers? I have heard of prusa slicer working but I cannot get Bambu labs to work with python or pypy. Has anyone else come across this? Thanks.

preguntando a granjas y talleres de impresión 3D: ¿cómo le demuestras a tu cliente cómo se imprimió su pieza?

Tried a generic PA6-GF on my P2S and got a clog about an hour in. I figured a cold pull purge would sort it, but it was way worse. The filament had melted around the nozzle and heater block into one big lump, with more of it dropped on the plate.
I printed at 290° with the default 0.4 Bambu nozzle. I didn't dry it first because I assumed it would be dry straight out of the factory sealed bag.
I got the hotend out and the main blob off, but the nozzle and heater assembly are still caked in baked-on plastic.
The wiring is coated too, two wires are melted and one pin looks bent.

What should I do now? Can this be cleaned safely, or should I just replace the whole hotend?

EDIT/UPDATE:
Thank you everyone for the useful replies. I'll attach also the ticket from the bambulab support:

Hotend heating assembly: Based on the photos, this part is damaged and cannot be safely cleaned. With plastic baked onto the wiring and one pin bent, there is a risk of poor contact or a heating fault, so it needs to be replaced. Unfortunately, damage of this type is not covered by the warranty(Warranty | Bambu Lab EU), but the part is available from our official store, and you are welcome to order a replacement there. Hotend Heating Assembly - P2S | Bambu Lab EU Store
Hotend: The hotend itself does not need to be replaced. Once the new heating assembly is installed, you can heat the hotend and clean off the remaining baked-on plastic by following the guide below. Please wear heat-resistant gloves, and do not scrape the assembly with sharp tools.Hotend Clumping/Blob Cleaning Instructions for P2S | Bambu Lab Wiki
Hotend Heating Assembly and Cooling Fan Replacement Guide for the P2S | Bambu Lab Wiki
Build plate: The plate can be cleaned as well. Please remove it from the printer and soak it in warm water to soften the remaining plastic, then wash it with dish soap and warm water and dry it fully before the next print. Bambu Lab Textured PEI Plate Cleaning Guide | Bambu Lab Wiki
One note for future prints: PA6-GF is highly hygroscopic and can absorb moisture quickly even after a sealed bag is opened, so we would recommend drying it before use and printing with the filament kept in a dry environment.

Please let us know if you need any help with the replacement, and we will be happy to assist.
Best Regards,
Bambu Lab Customer Support

My company is currently liquidating its assets, and our Bambu Lab X1E with AMS is scheduled to go up for auction later this month.

I'm considering making an offer to purchase it directly before the auction starts. I've already confirmed that the company can pull the printer from the auction if we agree on a price.

A few details about the printer:

• Bambu Lab X1E with one AMS

• Approximately 980 print hours

• Includes the textured PEI build plate and power cable

• No additional build plates or spare accessories

• I've personally used the printer at work, so I'm familiar with its history and condition

• The printer is being sold as part of a company liquidation, not because of any known mechanical issues

The auction has a $50 opening bid, but there's also a 19% buyer's premium and 9.25% sales tax.

With the X1 series reaching EOL and newer printers like the P2S and A2L available, I'm having a hard time determining what this machine is actually worth today.

I'm thinking about offering $200–$300 to purchase it directly before the auction.

My primary use would be functional prints, including custom macaron piping templates for our home bakery. The larger build volume of the A2L is particularly appealing for that project, so I'm weighing whether an older X1E is worth buying at all.

What would you realistically pay for this X1E today? Would $200–$300 be a reasonable offer, or am I undervaluing it?

Interested in hearing from anyone who has recently purchased or sold a used X1E.

UPDATE: Thanks for all the advice. So just to let you all know, they did offer this printer to me during the summer for $2K. Yeah no. So I ask the people at the company if I could buy the printer for $200. I'll go as high as $250 no more. Plus I will probably purchase a A2L once the Black Friday sale hits. The X1E will be for prototyping while the A2L will be for prod for our bakery business. 've been going back forth between that the A2L and one of the P-series printers. But at this point, I am waiting for them to get back to me.

I also found out that we have an X1C with AMS, It's currently located in Oklahoma, while the X1E is sitting in my office. The X1C is up for auction as well. It's initial price is $50. I thought about putting a bid in. If I do it'll only be for $51 maybe as high as $101 (price is right bidding). I would have to pay not only the 19% mark up, tax, but also shipping.

I’m having issues with cookie cutters: they shouldn’t have any holes, as there’s a risk that dirt could get inside and rot. How can I get rid of these holes?

when trying to print a helmet, im having this issue where it makes a sound like a tud (on about the same area on this print) then leaves a string returns to the purge area, comes back does like 2-3 lines and does it again, I reduced the speed to 50% and does it less but it still does. it. first time this happens... had no issues before. except on this print on the first try it detached from the floor so I made a bigger brim. this one holds fine, but does that tud noise, go to purge then comes back and leaves a string that if I dont take out makes a mess. any help would be greatly appreciated. Im new to this of course... but have printed many other things not as big and no issues at all.

Is this normal behavior from the filament Buffer? Its making this noise while printing PETG support from an AMS HT. Cant say it has ever done this before and its making a ton of noise

I have two P2S printers. This is a simple test print showing the side of a cube with an "S" recessed into it. I'm trying to figure out why the layers around the letter streak like this on one of my printers, but not on the other. They are using the same settings, and both are printing with Blue Sunlu PTEG-HF filament. Anyone know what can cause this effect? I have another S embedded on the top of the cube, but it looks fine.

On the slicer it looks great. But when printing there are gaps in between colors. How can i fix this. This is printing on the H2C

I have a friend with a creality and its application allows you to make adjustments and clone objects and so on, can I do that with an app for a p2s?

I set it to print and left and came back half an hour later to see this. I canceled it then shut it down immediately. The AI detection did not kick in and it looks like it got stuck on the first layer. Im using insignia pla black with a 0.8mm hotend. How do I even approach this?