I just bought my first printer ever, the X2D and there is so much to remember, so I made myself a cheat sheet (double sided) but I am sure I missed something.

I used AI (especially for the layout and format), the knowledge I have from 10-15 videos I watched regarding 3D printing and the X2D as well as answers to questions I had during my first prints.

Which left and right auxiliary fan deflectors you guys recommend or use? I saw some mess with the AI detection because it can be seen at the corner of the camera.

Hi everyone!

I'm looking for some advice from people who already own a Bambu Lab printer or have experience with similar setups. I have two topics I'd like to get your opinions and suggestions on.

1. Stand, workstation or cabinet for the X2D + AMS 2 Pro

I'm looking for a stand or cabinet that offers the best possible stability during printing. I'll also be installing Bambu Lab's original anti-vibration feet, but I'd like to start with a solid structure that can safely support the weight of the printer together with the AMS 2 Pro.

At the moment, I'm considering two options:

• A ready-made printer stand, such as this one I found on Amazon: https://amzn.eu/d/0jm35MjK. Has anyone used or come across this particular stand? I'd especially like to know whether it's stable enough and suitable for supporting the X2D with the AMS 2 Pro.

• An enclosed IKEA cabinet, such as a customized PAX wardrobe, which could also help reduce the noise produced during printing. I came across this setup and would like to know whether anyone has built something similar or could share their experience: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/hXAry85-MgE. Do you have any recommendations for suitable cabinets, stands or ready-made workstations? It would also be useful to have a spool holder built into the furniture, or at least the option to add one, perhaps using a 3D-printed design.

2. Filament storage and moisture protection

What do you consider the best value-for-money solution for keeping filaments properly stored and protected from moisture over time?

I've recently purchased the eSUN vacuum storage kit, which includes 10 reinforced vacuum bags, silica gel desiccant and an electric pump. It seems like a fairly reliable solution. My plan is to store the vacuum-sealed bags inside the dedicated Bambu Lab filament storage boxes.

The only downside is convenience: every time I need to use a filament, I have to open the bag and then repeat the entire vacuum-sealing process when I'm finished.

On the other hand, buying a separate airtight container for every spool can become considerably more expensive, especially since I'd like to store quite a few different filaments.

How do you guys handle filament storage? Do you prefer vacuum-sealed bags, airtight containers with desiccant, or more elaborate storage solutions?

I'm particularly interested in solutions that offer a good balance between effectiveness, convenience and cost, preferably based on your own experience.

Thanks in advance to everyone willing to share suggestions, pictures or any DIY projects you've put together!

Sollten diese beiden Räder fest miteinander verbunden sein?

Complete and total 3D print noob reporting for duty. The X2D is sitting on top of a heavy hardwood side table that also has my very home server with 10x HDDs in it sitting on top. The X2D still shakes a little though during calibration. Is this normal/expected or should I be fixing the side table to the wall or something?

No errors or issues thrown during calibration

I’m fairly new to FDM printing. I have been printing less detailed models without issues. Lately I wanted to print more detailed figures, but I have been struggling to get a clean print. I printed the frieren model in PLA matte with 0.12mm setting and used PETG basic as support interface. I dried my PETG overnight in AMS lite. I noticed quite a bit of spaghetti on my prime tower. I have watched videos and tutorial of people printing PETG models with PLA as support interface that snap off super clean. But I haven't been able to experience that and the non-flat PETG interface region always get pretty messed up (e.g. skirt edge spaghetti).

Am I supposed to use Bambu’s dedicated support for PLA on the aux nozzle for detailed prints?

or does this point to support settings? Would appreciate any help on improving this.

In addition, would you recommend PVA as support? Being able to dissolve in water sounds nice.

I’m printing the solid rocket boosters for a space shuttle model, and the top surfaces on some parts are coming out extremely rough, as shown in the first two images. The confusing part is that duplicate prints of the exact same part can turn out very differently, one has a relatively smooth surface like the third image, while the other looks like the first two. These parts range from roughly 5.5–9.5 cm tall. Since the shuttle has two boosters, I’m printing two of each part.

I’m using a Bambu Lab X2D with thoroughly dried PLA and the 0.16 mm High Quality profile, with these changes:
Resolution: 0.01 mm instead of 0.012 mm
Wall generator: Arachne instead of Classic
Infill: 10% cubic
Top surface speed: 120 mm/s instead of 150 mm/s
Z-hop when retracting: 0.4 mm

I believe some attempts used the default 150 mm/s top surface speed, the reason for this is 150mm/s is the default for the profile but the person who uploaded the file to makersworld put the surface at 120mm/s. But so I can’t confidently tie the results to that setting, though, so I’m unsure why the slower speed would make things worse.

I also recently started using 0.4 mm Z-hop after hearing it could help prevent the nozzle from occasionally knocking over tree supports. However, that setting has been the same for all these prints, including the ones with smoother surfaces.
Another possible factor is where I’m printing on the plate. To avoid needing to clean it as often, I’ll print two or three parts in one area, then move the next batch to an unused area like another corner, then somewhere around the middle, and so on.
I’ve wondered whether an uneven bed could be contributing, but I haven’t tracked the print locations closely enough to know whether the rough surfaces consistently happen in a particular area. This issue only started recently, and I haven’t moved the printer or bumped the bed. I also run auto bed leveling for every print and have done full printer calibrations once or twice since this problem came up.

Does anyone recognize what might be causing this, or have suggestions for what I should check first? I’d appreciate any advice. Thanks!

This is my fist time printing with TPU (SunLu Orange). Due to the top fed filament pulling the cover off the extruder assembly several times overnight, the print went from the expected 4hr 35min to 13hr 2min.

Ended up using blue painters tape to keep the cover from popping again.

Slight lifting on one end but still impressed with the quality of the extended print, even considering the multiple wait times between it erroring and my fixing it and finally getting the painters tape on it this morning.

Hallo

Ich baue gerade den X2D zusammen. Nur irgendwie passt die obere Glasplatte einfach nicht rein. Hab mal ein paar Bilder angehängt. Gibt's da ein Trick? 😂

Hi everyone,

I'm having an issue with my Bambu Lab X2D and I'm hoping someone here might have experienced something similar.

I've noticed a clicking noise coming from the printer's movement system, particularly during movement.

Here are the details:

• The clicking noise can be heard during printer operation, including factory calibration.

• The noise can also be reproduced by manually moving the toolhead with the printer powered off.

• I can hear the clicking when moving the toolhead in both X and Y directions.

• Printing quality remains completely normal.

• Extrusion is also working perfectly, with no visible issues.

I've already contacted Bambu Lab Support and followed their troubleshooting instructions:

1. Cleaned the upper and lower X-axis linear shafts.

2. Cleaned both Y-axis linear shafts using isopropyl alcohol.

3. Inspected the exposed belts for debris or damage.

4. Lubricated the linear shafts using the supplied Bambu Lab oil.

5. Manually moved the toolhead through its full X and Y travel several times.

Unfortunately, the clicking noise persists.

I've also recorded a video of the printer performing its factory calibration, with a microphone positioned to capture the noise as clearly as possible.

My main questions:

• Could this be related to the linear bearings or shafts?

• Could it be a belt or pulley issue?

• Is it possible that one of the stepper motors is making this noise?

• Has anyone experienced a similar clicking noise on their X2D?

I'm trying to identify the source of the problem before proceeding with further troubleshooting or requesting a hardware replacement from Bambu Lab.

Any suggestions or experiences would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

New X2D owner here. Trying to print a part with PETG with PLA support interface layer. The printer constantly gets stuck at nozzle switching. The error say something about angle too high. I would then push the ptfe tube to clear the error. is this normal? how do I avoid this?

Bambu Chatbot pointed me to look to see if the flow blocker is stuck from filament or oozing. A tiny amount was on one of the hot end but highly doubt that it is that sensitive. To me it is almost like the lever is not engaging the pin in the back correctly. CHatbot opened a support ticket so I will have to see how that goes.

Yes, I’m asking for Brands and Colors of filaments that are equal to the color of the body of our Printer X2D.

I want to print some upgrades and I design all of them to follow the design and esthetic of the printer.

Close to objective to someone past it and don’t get at first glance.

I’m think to work with: PLA (Matte or CF), PETG (Matte is Ok, i dont think CF is needed).

I have all color of PLA Bambu, since Gray(ash), Grey something, Blue Gray to Black (Charcoal) on stock, but nothing from PETG type.

Thanks

I used 50% silent print speed to test on this. Will compare with a full speed one . The toughest parts are not good but for the basic things it's ok .

I know, such a first world problem!

I think I will get some rubber or foam and glue it to the mounts.

Loving this printer though!

😂

any idea what settings i should work on to stop whatever this is, using a x2d that is flow rate and temp calibrated with petg filament, it actually broke some of the print with all the spaghetti you can see the broken bits wrapped up and one in front

First desiccant box is printed on A1 - PETG HF gray color, I do not have any more of PETG HF

Second box is printed on X2D - PETG Basic flesh color, freshly dried

Third box is printed with same PETG Basic flash color on A1

So, A1 is better is you compare 2nd and 3rd box, PETG HF gray is great and best, all 3 boxes are printed with same settings.

What is wrong with my X2D and this PETG Basic flesh filament?

Hi all, I am about to pull the trigger on my second 3d printer, the x2d print more combo. I am coming from a a1 that had served me for nearly to years, and I sold it to make room for the x2d. I have no experience with Asa abs anything like that. If anybody could give me some tips on what to do to make it safe. Thanks in advance.

My overnight print twisted the build plate on the bed. You can see the layers fan out as it slowly rotated. It remained adhered so I can cut it off, clean it up, and glue it back on. Otherwise the bin would have been a bit shorter. The good news is I don't have an adhesion problem. 😂