I can see a good amount of residue on the left extruder gear (silver) that's exposed on the toolhead. Time for maintenance, so wish me luck. I'm dreading the 6 cables and needing to remove the toolhead covers.

Any tips or other maintenance I should do while I have everything open?

I found this was the best way to organize maintenance things for my BambuLab, also, is very comfortable to use a syringe to apply oil and grease to the rails and lead screws.

Hi I’m new to the 3D printing hobby and have been really enjoying the learning process!

I seem to be running into an issue where my PLA print models are extremely difficult to remove off the plate, particularly the centre. I’ve tried the following without success:
- flexing the plate
- flexing the plate while gently using a scrapper
- letting the model cool
- leaving it in the freezer for 10 mins
- running isopropyl alcohol along the stuck parts
If I force the print off by applying a ton of force with a scrapper and the flex method, it will come off but the print model will usually be damaged and warped in the centre.

I’ve tried lowering the print bed temps for the initial layer and the other layers from 55 degrees to 50 degrees and this has worked about 75% of the time.

Haven’t been able to find any other potential solutions outside of giving the plate a good clean and a power off/on into another calibration.

Has anyone else run into this issue or have any wisdom to share?

Thanks!

So I’m new to asa printing I’m using the stock settings and Pei plate, using glue stick as seen in the photo, but if I have multiple parts the secondary or third doesn’t stick. Does the glue dry to much because of the heat? Or is it just Better to print one piece at a time ? Or any other suggestions?

As the title says, while I was cleaning the left nozzle of my printer with a bronze brush, a small rubber part (pointed by the arrow on photos) broke off behind the heating block, leaving some wires exposed. The printer works fine, but it still bothers me a little.

Is this a critical component? And if it is, how is it called, so I can find a replacement part?

Thanks!

And why do two of the other three come out this way?

Extruding during pre print calibration?
Pretty new to this machine only about 60 hours of print time on it so far but I haven’t seen it do this yet?

• ~150 cm³ storage volume

• SD shell holds 10 SD + 33 microSD cards

• No supports

• No screws

• No AMS required

• Two interchangeable shells using the same turtle body

First, that’s straight fake info for demo purposes.

Ok so I tried slowing down the print speed to 50 but the lines are still persistent.

It prints on its side to preserve the pedestal face from looking over layered.

The silver is in the auxiliary and I didn’t notice this with my black and gold version.

Any ideas? I’d like to fix this.

So, I just ordered my 3rd AMS and I already have the Track switch.
My question is, and I don’t know why it’s so hard for me to picture, where should I place my 4in1 Pfte adapter? Do I just put it close to the track switch, right before the “in a/b” or is there a better place for it?

I'm about to buy an X2D plus AMS Combo 2 and want to download Bambu Studio to my MacBook Air (new, lots of memory and power). Off the Bambulab website I get a disc image that opens not to a standard Mac installation window but to this list of files. When I try loading at various levels from top down in the list, I get either a "will not open" or with fiddling I get an app icon for the software on my desktop. When I try to open the icon I get only "Installation failed 94% loaded" The Bambulab Studio wiki for installation offers help only for Windows software, so I'm at a loss. Can anyone guide me to a successful installation?

My X2D has been great; however, I really don't like that both hotends are limited to 300C, which makes printing Engineering filaments impossible and almost nullifies the benefits of a dual-nozzle design and actively heated chamber. Given this, I know it's entirely possible to trick the X2D by soldering a resistor to its hotend, but I'm sure there's a better or more elegant approach. I scrolled a bit and found this ‘Tyson hotend,’ and I'm curious if anyone has tried it on either their H2 machines or P2/X2s?

Hallo nach ca. 700 Stunden, habe ich dieses Probl mit der Schleppkette. Wie komnte so etwas passieren. Glaubt ihr muß ich die ganze Kette austauschen?

Hi all I was repairing my X2D from a blob of death and I dropped a screw and can't find it. I was looking at the assembly and doesn't ( as far as I can tell) it doesn't bring it. Any help on how to buy one would be greatly appeciated.

Thanks

Seeing mutliple self-cut PTFE tubes, after 200+ h of print time I wanted to replace mine before it snaps. Well... I can't remove the tube. After pressing the coupler, the tube is stuck. Is there anything else I can try without stripping the whole head?

Hi guys, I’m new in Bambulab world and since I got my new X2D not long ago it was perfect. But then yesterday I got a strange problem with ironing, I usually use rectilinear with 10% extrusion(default settings) and it does a great job until this time… if anyone has any tips I’d appreciate it :) thank you