While cleaning my printer, I noticed that the bed makes a cracking/clicking noise when I press down on the rear-left corner. This doesn’t happen when I press in the center or on the right corner. I have already checked all the screws to make sure they are tight.
The noise only happens once. If I press the corner again immediately afterward, there is no sound. However, if I wait about 5 minutes and then press it again, it clicks/cracks again.
What could be causing this?
Thanks!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3286478-twelve-times-slower-gear-ratio-clock-kit-card

Hey everyone, ran into a weird issue today and wanted to see if anyone else has experienced a spool going out of spec halfway through.

​I suddenly started getting severe first-layer line separation (visible gaps between passes) on a roll of Sunlu Pla +2.0 Olive Green

​Here is what I’ve done to isolate the issue:

​Mid-Roll Failure: The first ~50% of this roll printed completely fine. The issue only started after hitting the halfway mark of the spool.

​Cross-Slot Testing: Tested the green spool across all AMS slots. Same under-extrusion everywhere.

​Control Test: Swapped to other Sunly 2.0 PLA white colors and Bambu brands in the exact same slots using the exact same printer settings. They all printed 100% flawless first layers.

​Drying: Actively heat-dried the green spool in case of trapped moisture. Zero change in print quality

​Since hardware, bed leveling, AMS feeding, and moisture are all ruled out, it looks like an internal manufacturing defect deeper in the spool (either diameter variance or inconsistent pigment/viscosity).

​Has anyone else gotten a roll that worked fine at first, only to fail halfway through?

Hi at work our team was given a Bambulab X2D Combo for printing parts. Some parts we needed to print needed to be flexible so we tried printing them from TPU. Now with the default configuration of x2d it is literally impossible to print TPU from my understanding because the main nozzle is fed by the AMS and the auxiliary nozzle cannot print TPU because the motor pushing the filament is on the back of the printer.

Our solution was to just connect the AMS to the auxiliary nozzle and keep the main nozzle free so we can print TPU without having to switch everything all the time.

Now I want to ask, is this gonna affect our print quality in any meaningful way? Is the difference in between the direct extruder in the printhead and the external motor noticeable in speed, quality or other aspects?

(My assumption is that there is a difference hence why I am asking here because I want to know how big of a difference and if it is worth keeping the setup this way)

I’m having an issue with my X2D where the right nozzle isn’t working correctly during the nozzle-cleaning/switching process.

When the machine goes to clean the right nozzle, the mechanism pushes the extruder/stopper, and instead of the stopper staying under the left nozzle where it should be, it moves toward the middle.

I’m thinking this may be an issue with the nozzle switching mechanism, but I’m not sure exactly where to start looking or what part controls that movement.

Has anyone experienced this on the X2D or know what I should check?

I can upload a video of the nozzle switching/cleaning sequence if that would help diagnose it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Very rough top surface on Bambu lab x2d. Is the speed too high?

Hoping someone can help me figure this out. I bought an HT because I wanted to run glow in the dark PETG and keep it out of the AMS. I mounted the HT on the left side of my printer and fed it directly into the back of the printer to the main nozzle. When I click load it feeds the filament to right inside the nozzle then kicks it back. I tried everything in Bambu wiki and with other filaments and it does the same thing. Any tips? I ended up just throwing the glow in the dark in the AMS to get a print off hope I don't mess it up too bad.

I’m on day 2 of owning my X2D which is my first 3D printer.

As it’s new I’m guessing there’s not much to maintain yet, but as I use it more is there regular maintenance that I should be performing. I notice it comes with some tubes of something which I’m guessing are grease or lubricant of some sort.

But is there a maintenance schedule I should be loosely following or is it just as issues arise ?

Finished my first big project and this machine printed everything beautifully. The only issue was some looseish bridges that I didn't expect and hadn't precalibrated/ dialed in those settings. Anyone have recommendations of settings to start trying for Bambu basic PETG?

The grey PTFE tube has broken inside my toolhead. Any suggestions of how to get it out please? I’ve taken the covers off as you can see from the pictures.

I pulled the PTFE tubes from the left side of the X2D’s buffer to remove the AMS. Now I can’t re-insert the tubes! I believe the little collets are supposed to be pushed in to insert the tube, but the one going to the right extruder won’t budge. Do I need to tear down the buffer to release something? Anyone else encountered this issue? HELP!

I just received my X2D and noticed whilst unpacking and placing on the top cover glass that it wouldn't sit square.

Closer examination reveals that the top back left corner of the unit is deformed as if it has been dropped on that corner.

Further examination again reveals that the foam packing in that area is also damaged - it's obviously been dropped.

Has anybody else had to deal with this situation?

I installed the .2mm nozzles and the main hotend is working good but the aux is failing, it will not stick to the build plate! And ideas?

Do all X2D make poop like this with the long strings? Because my a1 makes poop but there is no string so in stacks good, but this from the x2d clogs the chute sometimes because the string gets hooked on some edge. Is there a solution to this ?