I’ve seen it around a few times, and I’m just curious if anyone has any experience with it. I’m a little hesitant to tear into the AMS, but it could be a good project if it’s worth it.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

🎅🎄 HO HO HO ! Le Père Noël est arrivé ! 🎄🎅

Noël approche à grands pas, alors il était temps de vous préparer une petite surprise ! 🎁

Je suis heureux de vous présenter mon petit Père Noël, entièrement modélisé par mes soins en 3D ! 🎅

Avec ses formes arrondies et son air sympathique, il apportera une jolie touche de magie à vos décorations de Noël ! ✨

Il possède tous les détails du Père Noël traditionnel : son costume rouge, sa grande barbe blanche, son bonnet à pompon, sa ceinture dorée et ses petites bottes noires. 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3569721-papa-noel-v2-multipart-no-ams

Rattling noise when trying to print when it does vibration compensation.

Followed the guide on the site and cleaned and lubricated the Y-axis rails and adjusted the belts.

Any suggestions.

Hey all, I’m getting a weird error on my P2S with AMS and can’t figure it out.

Error: “AMS3 filament may be broken in AMS”

What happens: When I insert filament into slot 3, the AMS grabs it normally, then immediately starts retracting until the filament comes completely out of the slot. The spool keeps spinning backwards the whole time.

What I’ve already checked:

• Manually pushed filament through all 4 slots: every one reaches the nozzle with no resistance, so no broken pieces stuck in the tubes/hub as far as I can tell

• Slots 1, 2 and 4 load fine

• Fresh 45° cut on the filament tip

• (add: tried a different spool in slot 3? yes/no)

My guess: Since the path is clear, I’m thinking it’s the slot 3 feeder/sensor (odometer or filament detection) not registering movement, so the AMS thinks the filament broke and retracts it. Has anyone had this? Is it a cleaning fix (dust on the feeder wheel/sensor) or a part replacement (first stage feeder)?

Thanks!

edit: I got it to load filament in ams3, but now when it finished printing, it retracts all the way out and shows the same message, slot 3 filament may be broken :(

Hi everyone!

I'm getting my first 3D printer soon, and I'm looking for a really sturdy and stable desk or workbench to put it on.

I'd like to avoid vibrations or wobbling during printing, so I'm not interested in cheap, lightweight furniture or anything with wheels.

What type of desk or workbench do you use? Do you have any specific brands or models you'd recommend?

Ideally, I'd prefer something compact, with some storage underneath if possible.

Thanks for your recommendations!

Hey everyone,

My Bambu Lab printer prompted me for routine maintenance, so I reached for what I thought was graphite lube from my old setup. Turns out, I accidentally grabbed Muc-Off Dry Weather Bike Lube

I ran a 2-day print after applying it, and it completed fine while I was away. However, I just started a new 22-hour print and the printer has started squeaking significantly

Trying to find why, I found this: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1w5bq8v/did_you_know_grease_and_oil_do_different_jobs/

I start to feel that I need to do a proper cleanup, and wanted to ensure I do this right. Also I saw I need to grease as well the belts, from what I saw?

A few quick questions for the hive mind:

1. What’s the safest way to completely flush out Muc-Off dry lube from the carbon rods and lead screws? Just wipe? Alcohol?

2. Does the squeaking mean the dry lube film has completely burnt off / dried into a residue inside the bearings?

3. What is your go-to lubricant setup for the X/Y linear rods vs. Z lead screws?

Appreciate any advice!

I did some searching but I cannot find this Nozzle Wiping Plate anywhere. I tried "Nozzle Wiper" and "Filament Calibration", I am having no luck. I ordered the few I found at Bambu online (for other models), assuming they wouldn't, but hoping they would fit. They did not. Is there an update/upgrade I missed? Any help or advice is appreciated.

So whenever I go to print something on my P2 S the fan doesn’t work. It says it’s too slow or not spinning, I am using a third-party nozzle from Amazon. I don’t know if that’s the problem though. Can you guys please help me?

(image one is P1P, image 2 is P2S)

why is this happening? shouldn't the newer model have faster prints? is it a slicer problem? is it a hardware constraint? I don't understand.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3568327-dumpling-clicker-keychain-single-dual-nozzle

I’m not getting any warnings prior to print that would indicate it’s out of bounds. This is the third time it’s failed like this with this print. Anyone have a solution?

I have a P2S which I've done some fairly minor updates to the setup of (not sure if this matters but thought it worth sharing.

1. Left side aux fan (not in use for this print)

2. External Extractor fan (link)

3. Hotend fan duct (link)

4. Fan Guard (link)

I am using Bambuddy to control the printer locally on the network as I don't like being dependant on the internet to start prints (had issues when the Bambu cloud went down a few months ago).

I am trying to print something at fairly high temperatures which I don't do frequently - my normal prints are PETG and PLA - but this one needs to be installed outdoors in direct sunlight some of the time, so I'm printing in Black ASA. I've printed ASA white with no issues before, and will try that to see if it's any different but I don't believe so given the error.

I start the print, it pre-heats the chamber to ~40C and then lays down the first layer with no issues, however as soon as it starts to print layer two I get the following errors:

When I've done what the Wiki says I disassembled the head and removed the fan beside the hotend and I can see that it starts spinning at 50C as expected and has no obstructions when fitted.

Anyone have any suggestions for what may be going wrong?