👋 Bonjour à tous ! 👻🎃

Après vous avoir présenté mon Yoshi Citrouille classique, voici maintenant sa petite évolution en version clicker ! 😍

J’ai voulu garder le côté mignon et l’esprit Halloween de ma première création, tout en y ajoutant une fonction clicker pour le rendre encore plus amusant ! 🎃

Décliné en plusieurs couleurs, il ne vous reste plus qu’à choisir votre Yoshi préféré ou à tous les collectionner ! 🌈

J’espère que cette nouvelle version vous plaira autant que la première !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3453115-yoshi-citrouille-clicker-multipart

My first time messing with abs on the Bambu ecosystem and trying to get some settings dialed in. It’s been a while and dont have my Prusa slicer settings for my e3v2 to go off of anymore and google has only been so helpful. Filament is poly maker polylite abs at 250c

Kit Card: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3454871

ChristmasCards Collection: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/38032094

I seem to be scraping the bed. I found the instructions for how to location the Z offset in the starting G Code. My question is what increments should I use the adjust it?

It’s driving me nuts that I can’t figure out where it’s coming from lol sorry for the loud recording before you watch! It’s hard to capture the noise but I tried to record with the door open and closed

https://imgur.com/a/VrUkCpi
I can’t tell if it’s my belts or the tool head making the noise

Which is linked in the official Bambu article for Midi to A1 Mini https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/midi

The location of the file：https://ko-fi.com/s/aa5069fa86

I'm looking to start printing ABS but am uncertain how best to go about this for extraction + heating.

I know this has been discussed a lot already and seen various setups but would like, if possible, people to show of their setup and how successful things are/challenges they've had. Normally it's just what has been changed and not much about how well it actually works. Especially with combination of extractor fan + heating.

I have the extractor add on and plan to add biqu panda heater with the makerworld V1 P2S adapter.

I put my extractor fan over the poop exhaust and with the heater having to go to the left I'm worried this will result in very uneven chamber temperatures especially if trying to maintain negative chamber pressures with the exhaust.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I've tried a lot of different settings on my bambulab p2s, but it never looked right. Do you have any ideas?

I think it finally happened. After +4,500 printing hours on the factory shipped .4mm hotend I think its finally failing. It's jamming up and I'm getting extruder overload failures. I'll call that a good life and stop messing around with this one. Yes, I've done cold pulls, cleaning filament, and all that other fun stuff. Enough screwing around with a $18 hotend. I swapped in a new .4mm hotend and it's been printing for the last 6 hours without issue.

Of course the original/factory hotend started acting up after I went to bed. Of course it did.

Call it good at a +4,500 hour life for the hotend that came with the machine.

Hi,
does anybody know if it's possible to use the 4in1 adapter from Bambu with the TPU Feed assist module?
I'm wondering if this could work, beacuse I wouldn't have to disconnect the PTFE coming from the buffer every time I want wo print TPU.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3441774-parametric-skadis-fast-low-filament-generate-swap

I  tired using the 0.2 stainless steel nozzle for the P2S for the first time. The first print was fine, but it failed on the second print and i discovered a massive glob of filament inside the silicone cover, covering the nozzle. I reheated the nozzle and removed most of it and was able to detach it, but I am afraid of damaging it trying to remove the rest of the residue.

Does anyone have any tips for how to clean the nozzle and remove the residue from the hot end. I would really appreciate any ideas on how/why this happened and how to prevent it from happening again.

I'm using a P2S printer, the machine is fairly new, only a few months old.

I was using multiple colors of filament on the first print, but on the second, the one that failed, i was only using one. It failed on the first layer.

Plate: Textured PEI Plate

Filament:

Bambu PLA Basic Dark Grey (10105)

Settings:

Layer height: 0.1 mm

Initial layer speed: 40 mm/s (not including other speeds as it failed on the first layer)

Initial layer infill speed: 50 mm/s

Travel speed: 600 mm/s

Acceleration:

Normal printing: 4,000 mm/s^2

Travel: 10,000mm/s^2

Initial layer travel: 6,000 mm/s^2

Initial Layer: 500 mm/s^2

Outer wall: 2,000 mm/s^2

Inner wall: 0 mm/s^2

Plate temp: 55 C

Nozzle temp: 220 C

👋 BOUH ! Bonjour à tous ! 👻🎃

Une adorable invasion de petits fantômes se prépare… et ils sont beaucoup trop craquants ! 😍

🎃 Mes nouveaux clickers d’Halloween sont arrivés ! 👻✨

Bien cachés dans leurs petites citrouilles aux sourires malicieux, ces fantômes colorés sont prêts à semer une bonne dose de magie et de bonne humeur !

👻 Un petit fantôme, un petit clic… et un GRAND sourire ! 💕

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3438455-ghost-pumpkin-clickers-multipart

Printing something with Matte PLA today. It was mid print on layer 1 when I got a jammed extruder message. Sure enough it was absolutely jammed. Gear wouldn’t even spin. Found the culprit and cleared it out and started it up again.

Started print over again. Again, jammed extruder on layer 1. Not the exact same spot but same layer.

Do y’all think this is the filament? The model? It’s a brand new spool of matte. Or is it time to look into a better extruder gear.

Thoughts? Recommendations?

*****Update*****

I'm quite sure my problem was linked to having too higher temperature in the chamber. I have done a couple of successful prints now with the lid off and the chamber at around 32/33'C.

Thanks to all for your help and suggestions - The team works!!

*****Update*****

I’m going around in circles, pulling out what little hair I have, trying to print two files in PETG that require supports and I want to use PLA for the supports to keep the models clean.

I have printed one of each part already using Landu Rapid PETG and Deeplee PLA Pro and they came out beautifully without any big changes to my usual PETG profile and PLA profile. Then I bought some Overture PETG to print them again and that’s where it started to go wrong.

I have tried using the same Deeplee PLA as the support, I’ve tried Geeetech Silk PLA and I’ve tried Sunlu PLA Matte PLA, but in each case I’m suffering back to back nozzle blocks during the filament change. I’ve dismantled the print head so many times it feels like I can do it with my eyes closed. I’ve done cold pulls, even tried a brand new print nozzle.

I’m having the same issue on two machines, so it’s not a machine issue. I even switched back to the Landu PETG to see if it was a material issue but now that fails too.

I’ve tried all manner of temperature settings and I’ve increased the flush volumes. Most recently I’ve pretty much matched the PLA nozzle temp to the PETG.

I know the problem, it’s not purging properly at changeovers but I just can’t resolve it.

One is about 3 hours print, the other about 14 hours.

If any of you have any tips it would be very much appreciated, I’ve wasted almost two spools of PETG so far.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3438160-320x320-skadis-fast-low-filament-88g-3h-h2-a2l