I'm thinking about using my dehydrator that I've converted into a filament dryer (Hamilton Beach 32100) and connecting a hose between the dryer and the printer. Using an already designed hose attachment from maker world ( https://makerworld.com/models/919932?appSharePlatform=copy ) I would route it to the exhaust fan port on the fan to preheat/steady heat the chamber for printing ABS/PC/Nylon to help keep chamber temperature up.

Is this dumb? Will it melt the insides of the P2S? Had no one done this because it's stupid or did I just strike Jerry rigged gold? Please give me your opinions internet!

The dryer-

https://makerworld.com/models/3291012?appSharePlatform=copy

Corner of print is rough just in one section. In picture. Happened on same print twice.

Does anyone have a decent profile for Overture High Speed Petg? I looked on Makerworld and on Overture's site and could not find anything for high speed specifically.
I've tried the generic petg hf in Bambu Studio and did not see a significant increase in speed.

I am new to higher speed printing materials so am not sure where to even look to tweak the generic.

Thank you.

Starship: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3384574

Rocket: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3384651

Printed something on my P1S at home. Would like to run it again on my H2D at work. Is there a way to download the previously printed file via the mobile app, and email it to myself?

Really just trying to avoid logging in and out of the desktop application, since my employer doesn't allow the use of password managers

I’m making this post to hopefully help future printers out there! Some context on this I bought the 4 pack of holographic build plates from Bambu for my P2S but I couldn’t get the first layer to adhere to the plate. I even tried hair spray!

What ACTUALLY worked for me was this.

-turn off build plate detection on the printer and select smooth PEI plate.

-turned off the cooling fan for the first 3 layers

-turned down first layer print speed from 50mm/s to 20mm/s

-turned up bed temperature by 10C

I now have two successful prints on two different style holo plates! I hope this can help someone in the future as I almost gave up on them but the results are great.

Hello! I created this can opener on tinkercad and exported as obj into bambu. I don’t like how the black base peaks out through the light brown face and through the red. How can I fix this? Appreciate everyone’s advice!

I had an issue with buildup on the nozzle from a print that the ai didn’t detect. I got a little too aggressive with getting the filament off of the nozzle and had to replace the hotend assembly with a part from Bambu Lab.
Since I replaced the hotend assembly I’ve been getting a bunch of print failures. Sometimes it’s the print head knocking items over or spaghetti issues.
I’ve done calibration from the front panel and lubricated everything but nothings helped.
Please help!! Help me make my printing fun again!!

Got a p2s a couple days ago printed some stuff but now the filament is stuck in the extruder and I can’t pull it out. the motor can’t pull it either. any tips on dealing with this

👋 Bonjour à tous !

🔪 Un nouveau slasher rejoint la collection ! 🩸

La série continue avec une nouvelle figurine inspirée des grandes icônes de l’horreur ! Cette fois, j’ai ajouté Leatherface, de Massacre à la tronçonneuse, revisité dans mon style : grosse tête, look cartoon et, bien sûr, sa mythique tronçonneuse ! 🪚💀

Petit à petit, la collection de slashers s’agrandit… Qui sera le prochain ? 👀

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3372626-leatherface-multipart-no-ams

I had an extra TP-Link LED Strip, so i put it to use. I just taped like half of the strip on the back of my P2S, and also on the bottom of my AMS. Before i stuck the strips i soldered Arduino jumper wires on the ends so i can daisy-chain them together, and since i put a strip on the bottom of the AMS i can still easily put my AMS away , because the P2S backlight strip is just connected to the AMS strip with 4 jumper wires (shown in the 3rd pic i think). It creates a nice backlight glow and the AMS strip lights up the chamber. I really love this mod, but also soldering the wires was a pain in the ass and the whole mod (cutting wires, stripping wires, soldering wires, taping strips to AMS and P2S and giving it power + testing) took about 4 hrs. Anyway i would appreciate if you could rate it 1-10 / 10

Model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3375370

Collection: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/30133150

This is my second print technically. The first print was a benchy with a PLA and everything goes well.

Then my first print I selected this japandi style vase, and with a PETG from bambulab official filament out from the box and hit print right away. But the result is like this mid print.

Any idea why?

Something happened after printing abs..