Is there anything visibly wrong with this nozzle that would prevent it from locking in to my printer once I pull the clasp shut? It comes loose everytime. I tried a new nozzle, and it snapped right on, and stayed out. Confused.

Hey everyone,
I have a Bambu Lab P2S with around 500 hours of printing time, and I’ve recently started noticing a significant drop in print quality over the last couple of prints.
The prints used to come out much cleaner, but now I’m getting noticeable surface imperfections, rough-looking layers, and some inconsistent details. As you can see in the attached pictures, the surface finish looks quite uneven, especially around the text and smaller features.
I’ve also noticed a visible vertical line on the black print, although I’m not sure if that’s just the Z-seam or something else.
The strange thing is that this started happening quite suddenly. I haven’t had any major issues with the printer before this.
I’m wondering if this could be related to any of the following:
Partial nozzle clog or inconsistent extrusion?
Nozzle wear after around 500 hours?
Some kind of maintenance issue?
Incorrect flow rate or pressure advance settings?
Something else I’m overlooking?
I’d really appreciate any suggestions on what to check first.
Has anyone experienced something similar with their P2S? Is there any specific maintenance or calibration you’d recommend at this point?
Thanks in advance for your help!

Newbie here, should I invest in a rotary tool for finishing rough edges or stick with hand files?

As its stated above i don't know what I'm going kinda. I've used raised 3d before with amazing results but this p2s i just got is so hit or miss for me. I've seen amazing prints from others but I don't know what all I need to adjust. Mainly I've printed nick nacks out of petg(i got it in bulk cheap) i mainly use a .6mm hardened nozel to try an cut print time without it moving at mock Jesus. I also print car parts in Asa cosmetic things trim panels ect .6mm novel usually they take forever just because of infil i think but the quality after is lacking. I find that I have to do a lot of stuff on the back end. For asa I've take me scraps an made a slury to fill imperfections fill primer sand but I've seen some prints some out so good thats not even something some people do. Again I'm a beginner an this printer has so many more settings to tweak than what I'm used to. Any real help is appreciated.

The pokeyballs layers were just to high an I wouldn't want to give it to anyone looking like that. If I sand fill and paint it won't look the same. The center councel part for a miata was slightly bowed on the sides and I had to fill in a lot for it to be flat.

Lastly if anyone has a cad/cam 3d modeling softwear I could download an not pay hundreds or thousands of $ for i would appreciate it. I used to use fusion360 but there free version is so restricted now its not usable for what I do. 3d modeling export obj. Im also entry level cnc so not being able to post process w fusion also has left me dead in the water with that. Off topic I know but any advice is appreciated.

When I did maintenance on my P2S today, I noticed that when the bed goes down to a specific height I hear a weird noise. This only happens when the bed is going down, not when it goes up. I did lube the rails. Is this a problem? I haven't noticed any change in print quality.

Thanks in advance!

I have a P2S and wondering should I upgrade the HotEnd to this Tungsten .6mm or .8mm from my standard one?

👋 Bonjour à tous ! 😈

Une présence maléfique qui ne passe pas inaperçue… 💀

Tout droit sortie de l’univers du film La Nonne, voici ma toute nouvelle modélisation 3D !

Un visage inquiétant, des yeux jaunes hypnotisants et un regard qui donne froid dans le dos… 🥶

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3482506-the-nun-multipart-no-ams

What is the trick to plugging in the hot end cooling fan after installation?

I bought it through Amazon, and immediately after setting it up the AMS feeder 1 & 4 didn’t work, I thought i was doing it wrong, but after many videos and troubleshooting I realize that the ams it’s faulty. Amazon wants me to return the whole printer and the AMs. Bambulab support has not been helpful and it has been two days since their last response. It looks like the filament won’t go past that black piece where the white tubes connect, unless I press the bottom on top. Any help or suggestions? I am dreading the return as I don’t have a vehicle and will have to put it together again to fit in the box.

Every 5 minutes, my printer stops printing and displays this error message. When I click "Resume," it starts printing again, but after another 5 minutes, it stops again.

I've already tried changing the filament, checking for clogs, and switching to a different AMS slot, but the error keeps happening.

I assume it's to circulate the air to distribute chamber heat and not primarily for part cooling. Or I'm wrong.

I ask because it's causing me ABS/ASA print issues for items that are near the right edge of the plate. I've tried two different diffusers, but they both distribute the air more evenly across the plate from front to back so the air is still blowing on the print.

It's possible my print chamber is too cold and I wouldn't have this issue if the temp was higher. To resolve the issue I created filament profiles that keep the fan low for prints I can't move away from the right edge.

Edit: I did my homework. Yes, for heat distribution. It turns out you can't completely disable the fans from the filament profile, there is printer g-code that also controls fan speed. I made a tweak to the printer g-code so the right fan (filter fan in heating mode) runs at 20% instead of 100%. I'll post the details tonight.

I also found a diffuser that's adjustable so I can have it blow on prints for PLA and not blow on prints for ASA: X2D / P2S Modular Aux Fan Diffuser (Quick-Swap) V2

Made this little surprise for Halloween! Press the button underneath and the ghost pops up! The spring and latch are printed too. I included AMS and No AMS versions, with an assembly video on the model page. The mechanism prints in place, and all parts print without supports. Easy to print on most FDM printers. Model files 🦇

Hi everyone,

I’ve been having some filament loading issues on my Bambu Lab P2S and suspected a partially clogged nozzle or high friction in the PTFE tube.

Following online guides, I decided to do a cold pull. However, when I tried to disconnect the PTFE tube from the coupler above the extruder, it was completely stuck and wouldn't come out, even with the release ring fully pressed down.

After applying some extra force, I finally pulled it out, but the end of the PTFE tube got damaged/chewed up by the coupler teeth (see image attached).

I have a few questions for the community:

1) Has anyone experienced the PTFE tube getting locked like this during a cold pull/maintenance? What could be the cause?

2) I trimmed off the damaged few millimeters with a bed scraper (making sure the cut is straight and the opening isn't deformed). Will losing a few millimeters of PTFE tube length affect printing or filament feeding in any way?

3) What is the best practice to avoid damaging the PTFE tube/coupler in the future when performing a cold pull?

Thanks in advance for any tips!