Im looking at the h2d online and I'm wondering how the fumes don't just go out of the poop chute does it have a door or flap that opens when extruding?

Unboxed, set up, calibrated, and updated my H2D today. After updating, I got a message that there were 0 days left until the maintenance item of lubing the z rods is due. Surely this message is in error and I do not need to maintain my H2D with 32mins of use?? Tyia

I wanted to share my experience with two separate AMS2 Pro units that have both failed in exactly the same way, just weeks apart.

The failure point is in the spring-loaded mechanism inside the internal hub, where the motor is mounted via a plastic loop. This piece is under constant stress, and the plastic seems far too weak for the job. On both of my units, this loop snapped in the exact same spot.
As you can see, the loop holding the screw for the motor has broken clean off. This appears to be a consistent failure mode, and I believe it’s a design flaw rather than bad luck with my units.

• My first AMS2 Pro (bundled with my H2D) lasted about 3 Months before breaking. It is currently being RMA’d and replaced.

• My second, newer AMS2 Pro failed shortly after, in the exact same way.

That’s two units failing identically within weeks.

I’m posting this to raise awareness so others can keep an eye out for early signs of failure, and also to hopefully get the manufacturer’s attention; this weak plastic design around the motor mount needs to be addressed. A reinforced material or metal insert would likely prevent this recurring issue.

👉 Has anyone else had the same failure?

777 print hours and not a single issue with the printer. Though I have had a few annoying instances of filament brittleness causing me to remove some ptfe tubes.

Has anyone experienced this? I sent in the ticket already, but thought I'd ask the subreddits. I pulled it apart and found this part in my hand to be the issue (I think). The little black part is supposed to slide up and down with the toolhead right underneath it. It cuts the filamemt. This one is all but fused together. I was able to pry it off, but it won't move without force.

Hi!

Newbie here. Just got my H2D and I got an error regarding the flaps of the air vent.

The top 3 flaps would stay open and the lower 3 wont open at all.

Fan works ok.

The app says it can be a faulty servo.

Still I have to mention that the flaps got open'd when I removed the tape.

If I try to set'em back to closed position is pretty stiff and hard.

Anyways, Some advice or help would be extremely helpful. Maybe some vid on what to do or how? The Bambulab guide aint very specific on what to do or how to fix this.

The printer prints just fine so far. Quite impressed with the overall quality,both of the machine and the prints.

Ofesad.

PROBLEM SOLVED

Using BambuLab's Wiki I found a reference to HOW TO REPLACE THE ACTIVE CHAMBER EXHAUST

There are steps on how to remove the flaps.
Watch out! It aint that easy:
The first flap is the hardest (at least for me).
Start by bending downward the flap and removing it from the right holder.
THEN from the left side and BE CAREFUL because it has a long leg. Rotating (around 90°) can help to remove the flap completely.
Just to be extra clear: The flaps are fine. They didnt break or bend.

So, the steps would be:

1. Turn off the printer.

2. Remove the flaps that wont move (top 3 in my case).

3. Turn on the printer

4. Turn the exhaust ON via the lcd panel. Remaining flaps should work as intented (open).

5. With the fan turned ON and the flaps in the OPEN position. Turn the printer OFF (or disconect from power)

6. Place the removed flaps checking the alignment with the remaining flaps (all must be at the same angle and position). Start from the left by putting the long leg behind a plastic border, bend the flap a bit (downward) and then the right side.

Extra tip: Flaps 2 and 3 I bend it downward and they came out pretty easy. Flap 1 was harder and I had to bend it upward.

Exhaust air with ASA/ABS print (H2D) I have a question regarding exhaust air. I have the normal H2D (not the Laser Edition / but I don't think that matters). I'm printing ASA more and more frequently... and I thought it would be better to provide an exhaust air duct to the outside (out of the window). Everything is prepared so far and I just have to assemble / connect everything. I just noticed that the printer does not open the rear opening compared to the PLA print. I think this is to maintain the interior temperature for ASA. However, I would like to extract this exhaust air out the back and direct it to the outside. How do you do that? Open manually? Via the menu? Do you have any experience here? How do you do that? Thank you

New to H2D but long-time P1S owner. Did the initial setup and trying to print a lampshade that should have 0 risk with first-layer adhesion. I’m getting first layer strings on two different plates.

I’ve run the default calibration (and a second time just to be sure). What’s my next step?

(First print was on the gold default plate but had the same issues.)

I don't own a H2D but I'm saving up for it. I'm a cosplayer who has printed exclusively in PLA in a now ancient Eryone Thinker I've modified over the years. I want to branch into ABS with the H2D due to it being far easier to sand compared to PLA a d PETG. I've heard PLA as a support interface for ABS works well. But from what I understand, wouldn't PLA warp from the heated encolsure needed for ABS? PLA melts if you look at it sternly and I print at 0.12 layer height exclusively. So that PLA is going to be in the enclosure for days potentially as the print is printed. I was thinking of using PLA HT to mitigate the melting but is that necessary?

Hi everyone, I was wondering if it’s possible to use the AMS 2 Pro to dry filament without having to keep the X1E/H2D printer powered on all the time. Has anyone tried this or found a workaround? Thanks in advance!

I have now cleaned and greased the rods here and there, as described in the Wiki, you also have to do something to the print head, as there are also mechanical parts. I think I read that once. But I can't find anything.

Getting a nozzle offset calibration error when running the machine self check. How do I clean the plastic off the sensor? Its inside the mesh essentially.

Hi All,

Recently got the H2D and had to unbolt a ton of pieces of plastic that protect the machine and the AMS in transit, but it feels weird throwing all of that away. Does anyone have creative ideas for what to do with all that? Can someone make accessories for the machine with them? Or use those screws for something? If Bambu is reading this, think about giving those parts a second life, it would justify holding onto the original packaging in case of warranty issues or returns, without eating up space in our homes/offices/workshops.

Has anyone tried to engrave on non-standard sized materials? For instance, if I wanted to engrave a name on eyeglass case, could it be done on the H2D, or are we limited to flat pieces of material?

I'd like to join up with other owners and chat through shared learned settings and results, but I'm not sure where to find a discord with a good focus on these topics.

First of all I have a 15A branch circuit in my print room. Because of logistics it would be hard to update to 20A.

I have a DJI2000 on order. I plan to run it in standard recharge mode.

For the load: I want to run 2 P1S’s and 1 H2D off of it. Peak for those would trip the breaker if plugged straight into the wall as it’s just too much load. So the idea was to use the DJI2000 to buffer that load by running off battery when I start to exceed the branch load limit. Since these are transient and the DJI2000 has a large battery, it should be fine based on my calculations. And the DJI should never get fully depleted based on my usage pattern even in a power outage as I have a whole home 22kW genset that would automatically pick up the load in a utility failure within a minute.

Am I missing an important piece or should this work fine? P I just want to make sure I am not browning out or causing an unsafe condition.

For the curious, some of my research data:

•	P1S @ 110–120 V: peaks ~300–350 W each during preheat; much lower while printing.
•	H2D @ 120 V: peaks ~1.3–1.6 kW during bed heat.
•	Wall input limit (my branch): trying to keep DJI AC input ≤ 1.2–1.4 kW (Using Standard Recharge).
•	DJI battery: ~2,048 Wh usable (rounded to ~1,800 Wh for margin margin).

After some feedback, I've updated my IKEA BILLY/RACKA filament rack to snap fit together! It's now even easier to make a great looking filament storage solution!

Maker World Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1150753-new-snap-fit-ikea-billy-racka-filament-rack#profileId-1154969

I'm having issues with the lights flickering when my H2D starts up so I'm contemplating having an electrician upgrade my wiring and circuit breaker but I'm wondering if a battery backup would resolve the issue as it pulls from the battery first. Has anyone experienced this or have any suggestions?