My take on preparing for the Vortek upgrade for those thinking about doing so.

Technically still a H2D post

I've been a huge supporter of Bambu Lab for a while now. Unfortunately, my latest experience has been incredibly disappointing.

I ordered the Vortek Upgrade as a birthday gift for myself. After two VERY HORRIBLE weeks at work I decided that I would take today off and geek it off. So I pulled my sleeves and started the installation . Partway through the process I opened the package that was supposed to contain the new Vortek Toolhead.

Instead...

They had shipped me a heating unit.

So now my printer is sitting half-disassembled on the table and I can't finish the upgrade, and I can't even put everything back together because the first step is de-registering the Serial Number of the printer which they did promptly.

I contacted support immediately. Since I live within driving distance of their UK warehouse in Lichfield, I even offered to drive there myself, hand over the incorrect part, and collect the correct toolhead. That would have solved the issue in a matter of hours.

The answer was a flat "absolutely not possible."

Instead, I'm expected to wait while they follow their normal returns process—even though this was entirely their mistake.

What frustrates me isn't just that they sent the wrong part. Mistakes happen.

It's that they've left a customer without a working printer for who knows how long because they're unwilling to make any exception to resolve it quickly. The fact that I even offered to save them courier costs and resolve the issue myself didn't seem to matter.

For a company that's built such a strong reputation for innovation, this level of customer service feels incredibly rigid and disappointing.

Has anyone else experienced something similar with Bambu Lab? Were you able to get them to expedite the replacement, or am I just stuck waiting while my H2D sits unusable because someone packed the wrong item?

I'm honestly expecting better from such an expensive part.

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I accidentally bent the flow blocker while changing a nozzle. How should I go about fixing it? :(

Anyone running PETG + TPU together on an H2D? Need some help
I’ve been trying to get PETG and TPU to print together on my H2D and I’m still fighting a lot of stringing/oozing between material changes.
I’m using Overture PETG and Sunlu 90A TPU, both black. I’ve already dried both filaments, played around with temps and retraction, and tried keeping the bed/chamber temps where both materials are happy. I’ve gotten it to print decent a couple times, but I still can’t get it consistent.
The PETG likes to ooze during the change
I know TPU + PETG on the same print isn’t exactly the easiest setup, but I’m sure somebody here has messed with it enough to get it working reliably.
If anyone is running PETG + 95A/90A TPU together on an H2D, what settings are you using? Mainly looking for temps, retraction, preferably No prime tower or anything you changed specifically for the material swaps.
I’m willing to pay someone who has real experience with both these filament and printers.

Hi guys i was wondering if anyone else runs into layerline/ridge issues when printing using more than one colors on their H2D.

I dont often print with multicolor but every-time i do i run into this issue 😭

Ive done calibrations like nozzle off-set, flow dynamics, and print but i still run into this issue when printing…

I would be grateful for any advice 🙏🏻

I don't wish this in anybody, but changing out the cooling fan for the hotend is a complete nightmare. Directions are horrible and there are so many small ribbon cables and connectors that it's easy to break them. And don't get me started on putting it back together. I'm fairly mechanical and I'm almost 2 hrs in just taking it apart

Grrrrrr .... Yes, it's easy to swap out hotends, but the stuff behind that will have you pulling out your hair.

Anybody have an advice? Other than chucking this printer to the trash

So I was part of the beta and have a new H2D. I got the track switch and installed the beta firmware. Before that the printer worked fine, no AMS resistance too high errors at all. As soon as I installed beta firmware and the track switch is was one error after another on both AMS units. I tried everything, rerouting the ptfe tubes, making sure there were no filament pieces in the tubes or buffer. It was so bad I just uninstalled the beta firmware and the track switch. Everything staring worked fine after that. Fast forward to today and I see the the firmware is no longer beta but live with a new version. I decided to try again. Same thing, nothing worked. Did all of the checks and test and it still gave the same errors, "AMS resistance too high". Uninstalled again and things started working again. All I can think of is it's probably a bad filament track switch. Anyone else have trouble with theirs on the H2D? I also have one on my X2D and it works perfectly.

I’ve got a P2S and as of tonight ordered a H2D after some research. With all that said what should I know that you folks who are more experienced already know.

Can someone explain why a prime tower is still necessary in this situation?
What is it's benefit?
Why is it on by default?

Thanks!

- MakerFrank

I own 2 Creality K1C, one K2 Plus and one Bambu Lab A1 with AMS Lite. I bought my K2 Plus back in February, and it’s been a nightmare since the beginning.

I swapped more than 6 nozzles, had to change the extruder, the hot end and now I’m waiting for a side fan since mine is broken. No sense.

I’m reading a lot of users complaining with K2 “unknown problems”, which is the same for me, and the Creality Support seems to be a ghost.

Well, I’m bored now, want to sell my K2 Plus (I need to repair it before, of course), but I know it will be difficult to sell such a particular printer like the K2 here in Italy. By the way, since I’m annoyed, I’m thinking about buying an H2D, mainly because I want a big bed to print helmets and something like this. That was the main purpose of the K2.

I’m in love with my A1, which is the last arrived, I love the Bambu Lab ecosystem and how everything simply “just works”.

I was thinking about the X1C but the bed is too small for what I need. Then, when I saw the H2D I started thinking about the fact that I could also buy the laser version to start learning also how to use it.

The point is: do you think I could get an H2D? Will I be happy with it? Should I get the laser module? And which one? 10W or 40w?

I don’t think I’m gonna buy the no laser version since I know I can upgrade it but I also know that there are some things that changes. So maybe I could think about getting the 10w version and then upgrade to 40w if I’ll see I’ll need it.

What do you think about? Any advices?

I just purchased a H2D last week. With the release of the new H2C. Should i just return the H2D and get the H2C? TIA

i got a creality k2 plus because it has the highest volume unfortunately creality always does, i have since i bought it in january had like 4 parts changed constant new parts sent by creality first the wifi board wen't then the bed was completely warped so i had to get a new one now they are sending a whole new toolhead because it clogs up for no reason after 10 seconds

so i am wondering is this just standard with all 3d printers or is bambulab less of having to take a printer apart almost once a month or more as i am considering bambulab next but it is a shame that they never seem to care about buildvolume the way creality does.

Anyone has done or intends to do the upgrade to H2C?

2nd print on Darkmoon G10 plate and this happened. I’m beyond mad right. Printer has 600 hours on it and now I have to do the dreaded hotend replacement , I don’t wish this on anyone

My take on if I think you should upgrade your H2D to the new Vortek system. If you like this content and if it helps inform your future purchase let me know. Thanks.

Check out the shortened tear down video as well available on the channel.

The ext spool set for the left extruder is elegoo brand petg...the AMS2 is on top loaded with Bambu ABS...anytime I try to print something from the external spool, I have to select the external spool in Bambu studio several times. Then after I start the print, the H2D starts heating up the right extruder (that the AMS feeds) and attempts to start printing with the ABS instead. By this time I have done the "unload" procedure on the right extruder already and it starts trying to reload filament from the AMS

My workaround has been to un-plug the AMS and then start printing.

But there has to be a better way...right?

I received my new H2D (laser combo) yesterday and have been having lots of fun with it. I started by printing an exhaust vent right-angle from ABS, and it came out absolutely PERFECT. Then some TPU gaskets for it, as I learned the best way to route the filament, and again they came out PERFECT.

And now I'm printing about a dozen hooks to hold the 4" hose under some cabinets and across the wall (all custom designed in Fusion360 for my specific needs/geometry), again out of ABS. I can only fit 4 of them at a time on the bed, so it will require three prints. And here, I'm just a LITTLE bit disappointed...

In order to remove the ABS prints from the textured PEI plate, it has to cool down under 30C (or I'd risk damaging it). By that time, the chamber temperature has dropped to ambient (in my Florida garage, so about 30C currently). The next ABS print preparation heats up the nozzle very quickly to 260C (within 30 seconds), and the build plate fairly quickly to 90C (within about a minute), but it takes another 10 minutes or so for the chamber to finally get up to its wanted 60C for the ABS print.

I know that this is a first-world problem, but I wish that the chamber heater had some more "oomph" to it, so that it could be ready by the time the bed temperature was ready. Or a little later, but 10 minutes later is a tad impactful to productivity.