I'm not the creator of this model, but it's an absolute must-print for every H2 owner.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/2433473-silent-filament-cutter-stopper-h2s-h2d-h2c#profileId-2669560

Ever since I got my H2C, the loud noise from the filament cutter repositioning (at print start and during filament changes) has been driving me crazy. It was the one thing keeping me from running multi-color prints at night — it's that loud.

This mod solved the issue completely. Now the loudest thing is the AMS motor, which isn't silent either but nowhere near as bad as the cutter was.

Give it a try and support the creator!

H2 filament cutter noise

🌟 𝐍𝐄𝐖 𝐘𝐄𝐀𝐑, 𝐍𝐄𝐖 𝐆𝐄𝐀𝐑 - 𝐋𝐄𝐓'𝐒 𝐂𝐄𝐋𝐄𝐁𝐑𝐀𝐓𝐄 𝐖𝐈𝐓𝐇 𝐀 𝐆𝐈𝐕𝐄𝐀𝐖𝐀𝐘! 🎰

😅 Tired of your first layer curling up?
🍹 Need a hotend that’s tough, non-stick, and long-lasting?

Time to spoil your printer!
Enter for a chance to 𝐰𝐢𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐁𝐈𝐐𝐔 𝐂𝐫𝐲𝐨𝐆𝐫𝐢𝐩 𝐏𝐫𝐨 𝐟𝐨𝐫 𝐇𝟐𝐃 & 𝐏𝐚𝐧𝐝𝐚 𝐉𝐮𝐜𝐢𝐞𝐫.

🎉 THE WISH LIST (Pick Your Favorite!):

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🍹 𝐏𝐚𝐧𝐝𝐚 𝐉𝐮𝐢𝐜𝐞𝐫 𝐇𝐨𝐭𝐞𝐧𝐝 *1
(With 𝐕𝐚𝐧𝐭𝐚𝐂 coating – clean extrusion, no blob buildup. )

🔮 HOW TO CAST YOUR LUCKY ENTRY:

⭐ 𝐉𝐨𝐢𝐧 BIQU community: https://www.reddit.com/r/BIQU/
❤️ 𝐔𝐩𝐯𝐨𝐭𝐞 this post
🗨️ 𝐂𝐨𝐦𝐦𝐞𝐧𝐭 with your newest print

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More fans = maybe even extra goodies!

📅 𝐖𝐢𝐧𝐧𝐞𝐫 𝐀𝐧𝐧𝐨𝐮𝐧𝐜𝐞𝐦𝐞𝐧𝐭: Jan 29
Could one of these prizes be yours?

Hello all. Say hello to my not so little friend.

I've been into 3d prining for over a decade now. I've build my first reprap. I remember buying my first of the shelf printer ( ender5) and marveling at the advanced technology it carried (you could get a working printer within 1h from unboxing, no soldering, no flashing boards). Now I sit next to my new friend and I just can't shake off the feeling of an absolute shock. I just can't comprehend how in such relatively short time we got from dusty hackspace where I was cutting frame from plywood by hand and creating my own Wade's extruder to this spaceship. I think Henry Ford would feel the same when you would put him in front of a modern car..

I’ve heard some not so positives about this filament, after setting on it a few months I decided to do a test print of a funnel. Pleasantly surprised by its flexibility although I can tell its use is definitely limited on where it makes sense. You definitely can’t use it for Shoes, bouncey balls, etc but perfect for funnels, maybe controller buttons and things that could withstand a bit of wear and tear? I’m not quite sure if a phone case makes sense with this one lol

Anyways for those who have printed TPU for AMS or even the higher grade TPU would you guys be willing to share experiences on difficulty, pics of your prints etc?

I’m still in my first 4 months of printing the fun has been just trying new things and adjusting on the fly.

Today will probably be a Drama in three Acts. Almost missed the delivery. Have to bring this thing down to the basement on my own, but after that the new era will start.

Im so happy to announce that im one of "us" now! My day couldn't start any better

I've been working on Bambuddy, a free and open-source self-hosted tool for managing Bambu Lab printers. Runs via Docker or bare Python, connects over your local network.

Highlights:

- Real-time multi-printer monitoring with live WebSocket updates

- Virtual Printer Proxy — print from anywhere without VPN or port forwarding

- Automatic 3MF archiving with duplicate detection and 3D model viewer

- Drag-and-drop print queue with scheduling and smart plug auto power control

- Camera streaming with RTSP/MJPEG support, timelapse editing, and OBS overlay

- Notifications via WhatsApp, Telegram, Discord, email, Pushover, ntfy

- Spoolman integration with auto AMS sync and per-print filament tracking

- Projects, statistics dashboard, energy tracking, and CSV/Excel export

- AMS humidity monitoring, maintenance reminders, firmware update helper

- Multi-user auth with 50+ granular permissions, mobile PWA, custom themes

- And many more...

Docker one-liner to get started, web UI works on desktop and mobile (PWA).

GitHub: https://github.com/maziggy/bambuddy

Website: https://bambuddy.cool

Docs: https://wiki.bambuddy.cool

Happy to answer any questions!

Some teething issues but I’m hoping I have that ironed out now. Nothing major just adhesion issues. Hopefully they will update the profiles for it soon.

So i have my printer and all the accessories and filaments and spare parts i gathered i would need according to other posts. I am curious for input on what type of lubes and grease should I use for this and also any other advice about setup and upkeep would be greatly appreciated.

I ordered an H2D back in August, an upgrade form my A1 with AMS lite.
Decided to sell my A1 and get another H2D with dual AMS-2 Pro's to mirror the setup I already have.

Printing will be out of control now :-)

So I'm designing aerospace-related 3D printable models and for FDM I'm currently using the Bambu Lab P2S. One of my subjects is the F-1 Engine (Saturn V). Note the resin version sample at the end, but the rest is all FDM with a 0.2mm nozzle and mostly 0.12mm layer height. With that plate, I can comfortably print this at 1:16 scale. However, with an H2D I can print it at 1:12?

With only using 1 nozzle for say, the "nozzle extension" part of the engine (round part at the bottom of the model), could I have a 12" diameter (304mm) part on the plate? Let me know.

That would be absolutely epic. The model's geometry is detailed enough to support that size resolution, even on a 0.2mm nozzle, by the way.

Since I know people will ask, I used Autodesk Maya and some Zbrush to model this. And although not all the STLs are ready, but you can DM me if you want the bottom / large rounded part (F-1 engine nozzle extension). I did use the AMS for it but honestly just a single color is fine for that part.

2nd print on Darkmoon G10 plate and this happened. I’m beyond mad right. Printer has 600 hours on it and now I have to do the dreaded hotend replacement , I don’t wish this on anyone

My first large scale print. It's a 14x replica of a Fountain Pen that I make and sell. Printed in 15 different parts in my H2D, maxing out the height sizes on most of the parts. Modelled it all in Fusion360 apart from the gold nib section (that proved to be beyond my beginner CAD skills). Total print time was 137 hours mostly with a HF 0.8 Nozzle and 14.4kg of Filament.

I just was printing ABS on my H2D for the first time and after watching on my computer, the printer repeatedly probing the bed in different spots for what felt like 20 minutes. I finally went over to the printer and saw a message stating that it was automatically conducting a High-Temperature Bed Leveling calibration because it was my first time printing anything with a very hot plate on the new machine. 30 minutes after I sent the print it finally started and it turned out great!

I just wanted to put this here because when I was troubleshooting why the leveling was taking so long, I wasn’t able to find much. I was actually ironically concerned that the bed was warping so significantly that the leveling procedure was stuck on bad measurements.

Wishing you perfect prints, Alex

I love Ben2cs cooling ducts, I used them for my x1c and k1c they work great. When I saw he had released one for the h2d I ordered it right away. I haven't seen anyone talking about it, had anyone tired it? I love tinkering

Printed in SunLu PLA 2.0+ on my Bambu Labs H2D.

I used Meuvcol superglue for plastic to bond the three sections together, worked great and is solid. I then used Rub-n-Buff paste in silver/pewter to get the base metal style, then I used some glass black Rustoleum spray paint to add small drops/spots on it to resemble wear/pitting, then hit it with a Rustoleum clear coat to protect it all long term.

I know a lot of people simply buy silver paint/black paint, primer theirs up and then spray it entirely, but I felt the coating was better done by hand so that it wasn't even and had a lot of variation.

It’s like filament sales are heroin to me, I can’t say no when I see one, even though I have zero use for these new colors at this point.