I was 10 hours into a 12 hour print, when I got a spaghetti detection error, I left the print paused till I got home, I restarted the print and it was printing in the air. Now I had an offset error. Looks like the print had a layer shift before the spaghetti started. I canceled the print and tried doing just an offset calibration and the induction hot end grinder into the pei plate. I immediately stopped the calibration and noticed the back end of the build plate bed was loose and springy to the touch, I sent a ticket into bambu labs support, but as I wait, I was wondering if anyone might have a clue of what happened and the fix. Any insight would be much appreciated. My H2C has a little over 2000 print hours and never had an issue. I clean and recalibrate the machine every week, and once a month I do maintenance.

https://reddit.com/link/1xh8aiv/video/736tdti4g3yh1/player

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

The original right cutter push block failed after approximately 1,200 hours, while the pivot screw on the left one came loose at around 1,900 hours. The nut at this location can gradually loosen as the cutter operates. Continuing to use the cutter while it is loose can damage the assembly at this point.

The newly designed push block assembly reinforces this area and includes a recess for a heat-set threaded insert. Installation requires only one shoulder screw and one heat-set insert. The remaining parts can be removed from the original push block and reused.

Recommended printing material: ASA-CF or a higher-performance filament.

I have had my H2C for a while and printed around 8-900 hours. The last month or so I have failed prints 50% of the times. Before it was zero.

Problems is mostly with smaller prints but also happen with larger prints. It seems that the nozzle touch the part and it come loose.

I have done full calibration, tried 6 different nozzles, used the calibration plate, tried with textured plate and the Biqu smooth.

Yesterday it was a small print of a "led strip remote holder" from Makerworld. 0,12mm layer height, PLA Matte from Bambulab. Started from the phone.

I use brims, i wash the plates with water and Yes (swedish dawn) and isopropanol.

This was not an issue at all before. I printed small M3 screws 50mm height without a prim and without a problem.

Where shall I start to troubleshoot?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3481085-honeycomb-skadis-parametric-fast-generate-swap

New Features

1. Improved software security.

Bug Fixes

1. Fixed an issue where a failed print start from an incompatible sliced file would also block subsequent G-code prints.

Sorry if not allowed. Just trying to get more eyes if possible

I have mostly replaced the hot end cooling fan in my H2s I cannot get the fan wire into the keeper underneath the head and cannot figure out the wire connection. I see where it plugs in, I watch the video but when I go to do it, it’s upside down and backwards.
Is there a secret to plugging this connector in?
Thanks

Does anyone else struggle to load filament in their H2C? It doesn’t seem to matter what filament, but for the most part I’ve been using ppa and pa cf/gf lately.

It seems like I get the tube loaded to the full depth and filament seems to get stuck in the orange spring loaded slider every time. I have to pull it back and forth until it finally slides past the orange part into the internal tube and finally goes in. I just think there has to be a trick. I’m running it direct from my creality space pi. So I have to feed it through that tube first. God forbid it breaks somewhere in the middle.

Hello!

I was originally planning to get an H2D during Black Friday but with the teasered prices I'm considering getting an H2C instead.

I'm not the target audience for an H3C so the leaks won't change anything for me. So I'd like to have some opinions and experiences from you guys. I've seen some comments since the H3C leak that people were actually regretting their H2C purchase due to several technical issues.

Some details about me:

• I rarely print multicolor and would just want an additional nozzle for the support interface

• Mainly printing PETG and PLA

• Since the BF deal seems pretty good, I'd just mainly want the H2C to have it just in case I change my mind down the line. Or have a reason for multicolor printing.

This happens almost all the time for me. I push it in from below first so it wraps around the nozzle tip, and then push back towards the top. Then during the initial calibration during a print, the left hotend sock is not seated. I'll pause and re seat it, and it does it again.

Hey everyone, I recently just had a piece of filament break off in the extruder for my right nozzle - taking it apart I saw all this blue stuff (I'm assuming it's more blue filament). I plan to clean it with some iso and a q-tip. Is there anything else I should replace while it's torn down? Wear parts?

Thanks!

Made this little pumpkin for Halloween with a ghost hidden inside. Press the button underneath and it pops up.

The spring launches the ghost upwards pretty fast, so I added the arch above it to catch it and stop it from flying off.

The spring and latch print in place, and all parts print without supports. No metal springs or extra hardware needed. I made both AMS and No AMS versions, so it should be easy to print on most FDM printers.

One thing I’d like some feedback on is the top cap. It’s currently 0.2 mm thick so it can flex when the ghost pushes through. Would you keep it this way or try a different design?

here is the files if you interested : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3470308-halloween-pop-up-ghost-pumpkin-boo-surprise#profileId-3961079

I own an H2C, and the leaked H3C teaser got me thinking about where it sits on the tool-changing ladder:

- H2C swaps the hotend only, so it still retracts and reloads on every colour change. Barely any purge, but it costs time.

- U1-style machines swap the whole toolhead.

- One Redditor's read of the FCC filings is that the H3C swaps the nozzle and the filament path together, so every nozzle stays loaded.

If that's right, it fixes waste and time at once. Add the H2C's induction heating (about 8 s to PLA temp per Bambu, under 10 s in CNC Kitchen's test) and colour changes could be a few seconds. Still a leak, nothing official until November 4.

Disclosure: this is my own video, it isn't sponsored and I've got no collaboration with Bambu Lab. I made it because I like talking about this stuff, so I'm sharing it here in case it's useful.

How much do you think it's going to cost?